The Charlotte Jewish News - April 2007 - Page 31
Take an Exodus from Heavy Fare
Try Fruits and Veggies at Seder
By Linda Morel
New York (JTA) — Hard-
boiled eggs, brisket, matzah
balls laced with chicken fat and
flourless cakes that require eight
eggs. Not to forget the farfel
casseroles laden with margarine
and often containing harmful
trans fats or the saturated fat of
butter.
Passover may be the quintes
sential spring holiday, but many
of its foods are far fi-om “lite” in
calories, cholesterol and fat.
This heavy fare evolved in
part because most American
Jews emigrated from Eastern
European countries, where snow
was still knee deep when Passover
arrived and it made sense to beat
the chill by indulging in foods that
stick to the ribs.
But must we continue this pat
tern in a country with gentler
springs, central heating, and rising
rates of heart disease, diabetes and
obesity?
To balance the hard-boiled
eggs, glistening casseroles and
meaty entrees on seder tables,
enlightened hosts often select side
dishes brimming with fi-esh pro
duce. They’re filling but light,
tasty and attractive.
“Health hazards come with
affluence,” explains Michael van
Straten in "The Healthy Jewish
Cookbook: 100 Delicious Recipes
from Around the World.” “As
Jews acquired money they added
more meat to their diet, consum
ing fewer vegetables, beans and
grains.”
An osteopath, acupuncturist
and a naturopath — a practitioner
of healing without drugs — van
Straten, became a pioneer in nutri
tion long before most people real
ized that rich foods aren’t healthy.
“In my early 20s I was already
studying naturopathy, seen as
cranky nutrition,” says van
Straten, who lived in England
until recently. “I loved my moth
er’s Jewish cooking, but soon
became aware of the health risks.”
Sharing an apartment with fel
low students, he began tweaking
her recipes to reduce fat and add
nutritious ingredients. Years later
he explored recipes from across
the Diaspora, culling light fare to
feature in “The Healthy Jewish
Cookbook.” '
“The basic principles of kosher
cooking are healthy, particularly
those which forbid the consump
tion of milk and meat foods in the
same meal,”, van Straten says.
‘“This simple practice immediately
reduces the amount of saturated
and artery-clogging fat.”
His quest to healthier eating led
him to Sephardi cuisine, which
calls for the olive oil and produce
found in sunny Mediterranean
countries.
Still, Passover lures many from
heart-smart foods. Jewish women
— and some men — take pride in
preparing their most luscious
recipes for the holiday, which cel
ebrates the Israelites’ freedom
from bondage, the defining
moment in Jewish history.
“High fat foods are usually high
calorie foods,” says registered die
titian Lisa Ellis. “The cholesterol
Michael van Straten
found in egg yolks, full-fat dairy
products and meat is unhealthy,
artery-clogging fat.”
Ellis, of White Plains, NY, has
four children and keeps a kosher
home. She often prepares seders
for 15 to 20 people.
“When you consume so much
high-fat, high-calorie food in a
short time span, your gall bladder
has to work harder than it should,”
she says. “Foods high in fat stay in
the stomach longer than vegeta
bles and fruit because they take
longer to digest.”
Ellis says this all becomes a
burden on someone’s system.
Some of the ritual foods associ
ated with Passover are fttll of fiber
— the charoset, bitter herbs and
greens. Ellis says there are ways to
cut down on the eggs and fat
laden dishes associated with this
special holiday.
“Sometimes you can use less
fat and fewer eggs in recipes,” she
says. “Experiment with recipes
before Passover arrives.” In place
of margarine, Ellis suggests using
trans-fat free oils such as olive,
canola and safflower. Olive oil
sometimes works well in baking.
“You save here, you save there,
it all adds up,” she says.
Another suggestion: “If you
want to participate in the egg
course, just eat the egg white,”
Ellis says. “It’s pure protein and
under 20 calories, with no fat.”
If you feel deprived without
tasting the yolk, she suggests cut
ting the egg in half and sharing it
with someone else at the table.
For seder guests, who have no
control over the fat that goes into
the cooking, Ellis says to shrink
the portion sizes.
“Portion control is the most
important thing when considering
high fat, high cholesterol foods,”
she says. “If you eat half portions,
you’ll consume half as many fatty
foods.”
As seders entail several cours
es, no one is leaving the table hun
gry. The problem is, many people
leave too full.
“If you’re prone to indigestion,
you run the chance of getting
reflux,” Ellis says. "Your stomach
has a lining to protect it against
the acids that break down food. If
that acid backs up into the esopha
gus, which has no protective lin
ing, you can experience a burning
sensation in your chest and
throat.”
Ellis selects her seder menu
carefully.
“I don’t serve brisket on
Passover if I’m making matzah
balls because they contain chicken
fat,” she says. “Instead I prepare
a skinless chicken dish with
dried fruit, which provides
fiber.”
She recommends eating plen
ty of fruits and vegetables during
Passover to counteract the bind
ing effect of matzah.
Van Straten stresses the
importance of whole wheat
matzah.
“One of the great problems of
Passover is constipation, already
a widely suffered Jewish illness,
made worse by the lack of fiber,”
he says.
When it comes to side dishes,
Ellis prefers steamed vegetables.
For seders she sautes broccoli or
string beans in a little olive oil,
sprinkling slivered almonds on
top. Besides honey glazed carrots,
her menu typically features a
salad.
Noting that many people crave
a good matzah farfel, she serves a
small one, so ‘everyone gets to try
a little.” Ellis adds fiber by prepar
ing the dish with peaches or other
fruit.
She caps off the meal with pas
tries, but also offers fresh fruit for
a lighter choice.
Afraid your family and friends
will rebel against spa cuisine on
Passover?
Give them the chopped liver, ■
potato kugel, brisket and sponge
cake they crave. But these brown
foods are crying out for the
healthy crunch of fiber. Fruits and
vegetables not only add color to
the table, they complement the
season.
Remember, a sprig of greens on
the seder plate is the first sign of
spring.
The recipes here, as well as the
historical information and health
notes, are from “The Healthy
Jewish Cookbook.”
Sweet and Sour Zucchini
Sicilian Jews adopted this Turkish
recipe.
1/4 c. olive oil
8 ig. zucchini, cut into Ig. cubes
I T. finely chopped, fresh oregano
leaves
1 sm. garlic clove, finely chopped
3 T. red wine vinegar
3 T. raw sugar (if unavailable, use
light brown sugar)
1/2 t. ground cinnamon
Warm the oil in a large frying
pan. Saute the zucchini, stirring
frequently, until softened but not
browned. Using a slotted spoon,
put onto a serving plate and sprin
kle with the oregano. Add the gar
lic, vinegar, sugar, cinnamon and
about 2 T. water to the oil remain
ing in the pan. Bring to a boil and
simmer until thickened. Serve
zucchini with the sauce poured on
top.
Yield: 4 servings
Health note: This recipe provides
heart protection with the garlic,
beta carotene from the zucchini
and antibacterial phytochemicals
from the cinnamon.
Olive and Orange Salad
Jews were the earliest cultivators
of citrus fruits. Olives have been
cultivated for at least 5,000 years,
and they 're part of Jewish biblical
history. Widely used in Sephardic
cuisine, this salad is a favorite in
Israel, although its origins are
probably North Africa.
4 oranges peeled and sliced hori
zontally
About 18 black olives, pitted and
cut in half
Juice of 1 lemon
1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 t. finely chopped fresh mint
1/2 t. ground cumin
1/2 t. paprika, plus 2 pinches for
serving
Put the oranges into a serving
bowl. Scatter olives over them.
Whisk together the lemon juice,
olive oil, garlic, mint, cumin and
paprika. Pour dressing over the
salad, sprinkling 2 pinches of
paprika on top.
Yield: 4 servings
Health note: This recipe contains
the vitamin C of oranges. Olives
provide some vitamin E and lots
of protective antioxidants.
Nutty Spinach with Raisins
The combination of spinach, nuts
and dried fruits is a common
favorite with Jews in 'the Middle
East and North Africa. This recipe
comes from Rome, but it was
almost certainly taken there by
Jewish traders during the days of
the Roman Empire.
2 oz. (about 1/3 c.) seedless raisins
1/4 c. pine nuts
2 T. -olive oil
1 clove garlic, very finely sliced
2-1/4 lbs. baby spinach
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Soak raisins in freshly boiled
water for 10 min. Dry roast the
pine nuts. Put olive oil into a Ig.
pot. Saute the garlic very gently
for 2 min. Wash the spinach, even
if the package says it’s already
washed. Add to the garlic pot with
water clinging to the leaves. Cook
covered over gentle heat until the
spinach is wilted — not more than^
5 min. Drain the raisins. Add to
the spinach along with the pine
nuts, stirring gently. Serve with
lemon juice squeezed on top.
Delicious hot or cold.
Yield: 4 servings
Health note: With all the nutri
ents in spinach — especially the
beta carotene — the protein and
minerals from the pine nuts and
the heart-protective properties
from the garlic, this recipe is
exceptionally healthy.
Braised Carrots
Carrots are widely used in all
Jewish communities, from the
cojdest parts of Eastern Europe to
the kitchens of the Mediterranean
and the hot spots of the Middles
East, Asia and India. Adding mint
and raisins is typical of Middle
Eastern and North African Jewish
cooking.
3 T olive oil
8 young carrots with the bottom
1/2” of their leaves
About 1 c. vegetable broth, or use
a low-salt bouillon cube
1 T. freshly chopped mint
1/4 c. raisins
2 T. finely chopped flat-leaf pars
ley
Heat the olive oil in a large fry
ing pan and saute the carrots gen
tly, until golden all over — about
6 minutes. Add enough broth just
to cover. Add the mint and raisins.
Cover and simmer until the carrots
are almost tender — about 15 min.
Uncover and bring to a brisk boil,
till most of the liquid has evapo
rated. Sprinkle with parsley for
serving.
Yield: 4 servings
Health note: Rich in cancer-fight
ing beta carotene, carrots are onejr
of the few vegetables that are bet
ter eaten cooked than raw, as the
cooking process makes the nutri
ents easier for your body to
extract. The oil in this recipe
improves absorption of beta
carotene, a fat-soluble nutrient
that is also good for night vision.
“The wonderful time, the most joyous
time of the year has come... The sun is
high in the sky... the air is free and
fresh, soft and clear. On the hill are the
first sprouts of spring grass - tender,
quivering, green ... With a screech and
a flutter of wings, a straight line of
swallows flies overhead, and I am
reminded of the Song of Songs. ‘For lo,
the winter is past, the rain is over and
gone, the flowers appear on the earth,
the time of singing is come.”
- Sholom Aleichem