' - . . - V . : . ..'.'.,'"-; - -."' -.' " " -. . - .. - --',--' , . . .
- "'. I - , - ..- - - ' - ' t , . 'i j - " K - , , -
- - - ' I- .' - - - -. . t- .. " , r i 1 4 - - . r - ; 5 . ; ,.-..-..-4 . '
Tur Dollars per annum in advance
' . rtinient3 inserted t 81 fwrsq-jare for the first,
AJvint fur leach subsequent Insertion. Court Or-.
i deduction of 33jj)erc
Advertise bMe year. ;
cent, will be made to those
Frottf the National Intelligencer.
CAFTAN J?REMONT'ST SECOND
. i . . v i ! - -
EXPLORING -EXPEDITION." , i
COXCU'DED.
!.Vy 10.-4tThis morning, as soon ai3 there
yis1ight cnotigb (oWqw tracks, I set out ray.
,elf, tvith Mr. jMtzpatrick and several men, in
fdarch of Tabcau. ;Vf Wnt tothe pot xhcre
jjppearanccj of puddled blood had been seen ;
nd this, we -saw nau oeen no place
itiu. u w rr r , t
frlUnd that he ball fetrugsted for his life
He Lad probably been; shot through the lungs'
iith .an arrowy ir rom jne piace wnere ne lay
and bled, it could be seen that he had been drag,
red to the river! bank, add thrown into it.- No
tesiic of what had belpnged to him could be
hand, except a fragmant of his horse equipment.
Horse, gun, clothes a! became the prey'bf
these Arabs ofllne Ne WWorld. z I ;
,"Tabeau had been (One of our best men. and
unhappy dcau spread a gloom over our par-
.!) Men, wnojjpave-..goi)e through such dangers
and ;8uflenngsrjFis Jwe ;h'ad seen,' become like
brothers, and feci each Other's loss. To defend
ind arenge eacH other is the deep feeling of all.
nei wisnca to aTenge flis aeattLj ouyhe condi
lion of our horses, Janguishitig for grass and rc-
nose, forlrtide art expedition into unknown moun
taiflj. We knew tjhe tribe who had done the
mijchief-the same w-h!ich had been insultincr
iur camp. ? They kpewwhat they desened,
ind haLthe discretion to show themselves to us
no mpre. ;'The! day beore, they; (nfesfed 'our
camp ; liow, nft oije aipeard ; . nor did ytp ev.
er afterwanJs.'seeJjut oue whojeven belensed to
the same ;trtbei and, he.at a .distance.'
' On the 12th -May the' expedition reached
-1
las 'Vegas ?e,i$ana'Cara, w;hieh had been so
ling presentedj o us aa the terminating point of
the desert, anIvhere the annual caravan fiomj
California to N ;w Mexico halted ; and recruited
for some weeks, 'It was a very suitable, placej
to recover froirji tfiib fatigue and exhaustion of a
month's suffer iigin the hot and.steril desert.
The meadow 4 is aboi t a'mile wide, and some
teo miles . long, .-bordered by grjassy iiills and
mountains so jiie of the latter rising two thou
sand feet, and W.hite wi ill snow down to the le
f el of 4h'e .tegaL.3 elevation bovefne sea
Ms 5,280, feelj ;t latitude, by observation, 376
29' 23", and it? 'distance .from where we first
struck the Spahish trail about 400 miles. Count,
ing from ib'd tir e we reached the desert, and
Ipgan to skirt, i t -pur descent from Walker's
Pass in the Sie Tal; Nevada;' wo had travelled
5.r)0 miles, occupying 'twenty.seveii d.iys, in
tht inhospitable region. In passing bejfore the
jjreat caravan,' we had j the advantage of find
in j ''more grassj but tlie disadvantage of -finding
also the ma -auding Savages, who had gath
ered down upon;th trail, waiting the approach
of that prey. This greatly increased our labors,
besides costing us the life of a valuable man.
We bad to. movj'aI "day in a state of. watch,
jiiid prepared for combat Iscouts and flankers
nut, a front and rear division of our men, and
vn" "t" o an una is in incur mi r. j iiiHtu, uii.iijj
diifjr was" sever?e. fFhose who had. toiled aln
'dav, haato,guaid, py turns, the camp and the
-lores all night : Jreijuently one-third -of. the
vhole party were on guard at ome ; and noth
ing hut ibis vigilance tiaved us fntm nitack.
We were constantly ddired bv bands, and even
thole tribes ofi the .marauders : and although
Tabeau was kijled
and our camp nnfested and
insulted by son)e
I while swarms of them re-
mained on the hills
and mountain, sides, there
was manifestly It ..consultation and calculation
ping on to decide jlheHqueUon of attacking Us.
Having reached! the rating place of the Vegas
ie Santa Claral wie had complete relief from
ibe heat and privations of the desert, ahoTsome
relaxatiog fiomjthe severity of camp i duty.
Some relaxation! and relaxation only (r camp
guards, horse trilards. and scouts are frrdisnen-
Jable from the t me pi leaving the frontiers of
Missouri until v$b etu!rn to them." i .'W
M0n the 17ilf MavJ aflef 440 miles -of trav
eling on a trail which served for a road,, we
.agaiq found ourselves tinder the necessity of ex
ploring a track jihrpugh the wilderness. The
Spanish trail had borne ofTJo the southeast,
erossinsr the Wahisatch ranare. X)ur course led
to the northeast) ajonrf the foot of that rangC,
W leavinir it on the nfrht ' The moudfain ore-
ented itself .-tjful under the form of several
rilges, rising one aboti'o the other, rpckv, and
hooded with nine and cedar t the lait ridire cov.
'red with snowi j Sevier river, flowing north-
hardly to the lake of
"I Drinr1n.nl w-ltJpQ
sit I
the same name, co
)!!ects
Cmm this spefion of the
Wah-satch chdiLj AVe had now entered a re
gion of great pa.stpral promises-abounding with
"reams.' the ricli bunch nrass. soil that
ould produce ( Wheat, and indigenuous flax
ovving as if M hadibecn sown. Consistent
ith tho
general character of i it bordering
fountains, thia
ertiliiy-'bf soil and vegetation
fa r into the 0 rent Basin. Mr.
our gjuide, who joined us on the
Qoes not extend
-Joseph Walker!
vthjand who
nas niore Knowieuge 'Ot mese
r" ioan any man l know, informed mo that all
c country to Jhe Icli was-unknown tojiim, and j
Uke Sevier could tell him notching about it.
;,tt20i4Vle:met a Land of Utah Indians,
waded by a well kniwn chief, who had obtain,
p Arnericabr English name of. Walker,
I 'hich he isqliote!d and well known. . They
ere all mounted, armed, with tiflesartd use
Yxt rifles wellJ l Tie chief bad a fusee, which
?e Weref journeying slowly, towards the Span.
h trail, to le'ftheir usual tribute ujon the
Califortdan ciravan. 'They were rob-
of a hightorder than thosepf the deserU
W condircted jthpi depredations with, form,
M'under he cblbf of trade and toll for passing
Jjjgn their ijuntry. ' Instead of attacking
wiling, thev affect to purchase taking the
?0f8e they lik!et,!andgiving soraethi ng nominal
jJretnrn. THechif was quite civilfto me
e was personally abauainted with .His1 name.-
y iout guide, who Imade my name, know'n to'J
He kftefv of my expedition of 1$42 ; and;
tkens Of f'ihrlalfin 'unit nrnftf that wiv-tiiifl
r Proposed an interchange of, presents.' We
. 8 Mexican blanket, arid I gave him a. rery
fine
fi which 'T. had oVttained at Vfthr.riirpr.'
Crossing (on the 24thjMayt a slight ridge
?ag the river, we entered a handsome moan.
10 valley cojrered with fine grass, and directed
fr!COUrse towaras a high snowy pak, at the
which;lay thd Utah Lake. : pn our right
ered Sn mountains, their sutrimit's cov
,a fh inoiv 'conistituting the "dividing ridgo
vberc he leu anaaieu. j liiooanpon the leaver,
sn3 beaten doiyii Tjushes, showed I that Ke Tad
lj k!a tvniind iiboilt twenlV niipjp frnm'' wKorn
t ft i j ri I . w ro I i " I ! ". 1 1 II c r " . ' i : ' m . i r - -
'' - 1 . .:, ' j i i i i ii -i - i ' - - ' '- ; -. ! 4 - - - J . . r j- .,-- ... ' " ,
' S rsV'-'- r:.- S't.K LiiWtwrt,.. h V A- ..: . . , - ' - ...i". " " .' f " .'1 -.- -") i i j ... . -- ' ' j . , ... .
rBRUNE& JAMES, -
, Editors rf Proprietors. -
r J.
between the liamwaters and those of the Col.
prado. At, noon. we fell in with a party of In.
dians coming put of the mountain, and in the af.
ternewn encamped biia tributary Ah the laki.
vhich i is sepmfeld fromhe waters of the Se.
?ler v.e-8ligt lividng grounds; x.. .
, r "iarly the .nextUJay we;came in sight of the
lake ; and, as wo descended to the broad bot
toms of the Spahish fork, three horsemen were
seen galloping towards us, who proved. to be
Utah Indians sco its from a village, which was
encamped near the mouth of the rivef. They
were armed witt)Tr'fles, and their horses were
iri good conditiojT We encamped near them,
on the Spanish ftrl , which is one of the priori,
pal tributaries ta thp lake. Finding the Indi.
ans troublesomei arid desirous to remain here a
wlay, we removed the next morning further down
the Jake, and encamped on a fertile bottom nea
the toot ot the same mountainous ridiro which
borders v thereat Bait JLake aud along which
w e hacl journeyed ho previous September.---Hero
.-the -brincihaf Dlants in Unnm wpfa twn
which " were " rethaVkable as 'affording to the
Snake Indians th one an abundant supply of
.d a
VP"C
food, and the other the most useful among the
ications which they use for Wounds; ""These
Were'the kobvahJDSant. irrowintr in fipld tC or.
trardinary luxuriance, and conrallariastellaUa.
tTiiicu, n uiii lue ye.perieuouui iur. v aiKer, IS
the best remedial pliant known among those In-
uians.
j; . ?i 1 i .. ..
ans.. . A few m$s below us was another vil
ge of Indians, frqm which we obtained some
lage
'fish
athong th'e?n a few salmon'trout." which
were very much inferior in size to those 'along the
Califbrnian moun4ns The season for taking
them had not yedujjriyed ; but the Indians were
daily expecting tuejn to come out of tlie lake.
" We had now accomplished an object wc
had in view when leaving the Dalles of the Co
lumbia in P"joverribr last : "we-had reached the
Utah Lake ; but h$ a route very different from
what we had interjded, and without sufficient
time remaining td make the examinations which
were desired. It jp a lake of note in this coun
try, under the jdolhinibn of the Utahs, Who re
sort to it for fish.j ts greatest breadth is about
fifteen miles, stretching far to the north, narrow,
ing as it goes, arid connecting with the Great
Salt Lake. This is the report, and which I be
xlieve to be correct i but it is fresh water, while
theother is not only salt, but a saturated solu
lion of salt ; and hero is a problem which re
quires to be solved;! It is almost entirely sur
rounded by mountains, walled on the north and
east by a highVpd no wy range, which supplies
to it a-fan of uiuta!ry streams." '
" Jii 'arriving jiMJie Utah lakewojhad corn
pletgd an imnielise circuit of twelvd degrees
diametdrnorth a"nd south, and ten degrees east
and west ; and fpuiill ourselves, in May, 1844,
oix the same sheet qT water whichT-we had left
hi; September, ljl!j. The Utah is thesouth-
ern limb ot the tireiit Salt lake ; and thus , we
had seen that. rma-kable sheet of water both'
at its ''northern!! arid southern -extremity,- and
were able to fi itsfposition at these two points.
The-circuit wlfich we'Jiad made, and which
had cost tis eight months' of time, and 3,500
miles of travelling, had given us a view of Or
egon and of Nortli California from the Rocky
iTiuuniains toiqe racinc ocean, ana ot tne two
principal strearjfis Avhich form bays or harbors
on the coast of that pea. Having completed this
circuit, and befog ifow about to turn the back
upon the Pacific, slhpe of our continent and to.
recross ihe Hockey Mountains, it is natural to.
look back upon or footsteps, and take some
brief view of tjie leading features and general
structure! of tlie cbuntry we had traversed,
These are peculiar! and striking, and differ es
sentially from Jhe Atlantic side of our country.
The Mountains all, are higher, more numerous,
and more distinctly defined in their ranges and
direction's ; and, wiat is so contrary to the na
tural order of sue i formation?, one of t.hese
ranges, whiclt is iear the" coast (the Sierra
Nevada and the Cpast Range,) presents high,
er elevations ind eaks than any which are to
be found In the Rocky Mountains themselves.
In our eight months' circuit we were never out
of sight of sn'4w; 4nd the Sierra Nevada where
we- crossed it was! near 2,000 feet higher than
the south Pas3 in the Rocky Mountains. In
height these mountains greatly exceeded those i
01 me itianitc sia, cons'.antjy presenting peaks
which enter ihe ipgion of ctertial snow ; and
some of therii voldanic, and in a frequent state
- .1 . 1 1 : - -.1- .. - .
of activity, jrhey are seen at great distances,
and guide thfe trav ?ller in his courses. ;
i he, course and elevation of these ranges
cive direction to the rivers and character to the
coast. No i great L river does or can take its I
rise ueiowtne uascaciir and Sierra INevada
range': the fdislanrc to the sea is too short to
ad.nit of it. I The l ivers of the San Francisco
irljav, which are the lamest after the Columbia,
are local t th
at bay, and lateral to the coast, j
having therjr sources about on. a line with the
Dalles of tge Columbia, and runnipg each in a
valley of ill own, between Coast range and the
Cascade and Sierra Nevada range. The Co-;
lumbia is Ithe ony river whjch traverses the
whole breadth of jjthe countrybreaking through
all the ranges, ahd entering the sea. Draw,
ing its praters (from . a . section of ten de-
grees ot patitudef in tne uocky Mountains,
which arejcollecled into one stream by three
main fork! (Ibis's, Clark's, and the North
le.u r 'L. A
fork) uearthe centre of the Oregon valley,, this
great rivsithencel proceeds by a single channel
to the seal while Its three forks lead each to a
pass in th mountains, which opens the way into
the interior of thd continent. ; Thi s fact m rela-!!
tiori to t hef rivers f this region gives an immense
value'to tq Colu nbia Its mouth is the only
inlet and pullet tc "and ;froriv the sea ; its three
forks learj to the Masses in the mountains ; it is
tbereforftthe"on y line of communication be
tween th Pacifi and .the interior'of North A-
merica'; and all operations of war or commerce
of national or intercourse;; must,' be conducted
upon it, ! I This give it a yalue beyond estima
ilon.ad.r.wouldj. involve irreparable injury if
lost. -In this un (ty , and! concentration of its wa.
tersi thej Pacifiisidd of ourontineril dUers
entirely from thef Atlantic, side Whe re the-- waV
ters of the Alleghany 'mountains arerdispersed
into many rive rsi having th'oir diflererit entrant
ces intothe sea,andVpening many line's of com-,
ujuuicaiioii wiiii. interior.
' "The Pacific
boast is equally' different from
- Kkef
X CHECK rPOM ALL
ror
JS SAFE. . . 1
that of the Atlantic. The coast of the, Atlan
tic is low and open, indented with numerous
Py sounds, and river estuaries, accessible
7" i"ucr anu opening ,oy. many cpanneis
into the heart of the country. The Pacific coast
on the contrary, is high and compact, Avith few
bays, and but one that opens into the heart of
the country. . The immense coast is what the
seamen call iron bound. A little within, it is
skirted by two successive ranges of mountains,
standing as ramparts between the sea and the
interior country, and to get through which there
is but one gate, and that narrow and easily tie
iendeaV This structure of the coast, backed
by these two ranges of mountains, with its con
centration and unity of waters, gives to tlie coun
try an immense military strength, and will pro
bably render Oregon the most impregnable
country in the world. r- I
a f Differing so much from the Atlantic! side of
pu continent, in coast, mountains, andrivcrs,
ihePaciffc side differs fjrom it in another most
rarje aud singular feature that of the Great in
terior Basin,of which I have so often Ipoken,
and the whole form and character of which I
was so anxious to ascertain. Its existence is
vouched for by such of the American traders and
hunters as have knowledge of that region ; the
structure of the Sierra Nevada range of moun
tains requires it to be there 4 and my ovn ob
servations confirm it. Mr. Joseph Walker, who
is so well acquainted in those parts, informed
me that from the Great Salt lake west there
was a t succession of lakes and rivers! which
have no outlet to the sea, nor any connexion
with the Columbia or with the Colorado; of the
Gulfof California. He described some of these
lakes as being1 large, with numerous streams,
and even considerable rivers falling inti them.
In fact all concur in the general report o these
interior river and lakes ; and for want of under
standing the force and power of evaporation,
which so soon establishes an equilibrium be
tween the loss and supply of waters, tho fable
of whirlpools and subterraneous outlets has
gained bejief, as the only imaginable way of
carrying off the waters which have no!visible
dicsharge. The structure of the country! would
require this formation of interior lakes ; for the
waters which would collect between the ltocky
Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, not! being
able to cross this formidable barrier, norjjto get
.to the Columbia or the Colorada, must natural
"ly collect in reservoirs, each of which? would
have, its little system of streams and rivers to
supply it.- This would bo the natural fefl'ect ;
and what T saw went to confirm it. The Great
Salt lake is a formation of this kind, and quite
a large one ; and having many streams apd cne
considerable river, four or five hundred miles
long, falling into it. This lake and river? I saw
an dexamined myself; and also saw the Wah
satch and Bear River mountains which enclose
IKy wTttO fa Llbgle " the east, and consti
tute in that quarteTTrienJ-aCjbe Great pasin.
Afterwards, alone the eastern basc6iJiie fcier
ra Nevada, where we travelled fbrty-two UaysTf
.U 1! Pl.t' 1 - 1 1 ,. . .
s-aw me jme 01 janes anu rivers wnicil lie at tne
foot of that Sierra ; and which Sierra f Is' the
western rim of the-Iiasin. In goingj down
Lewis's fork and the main Columbia, I crossed
only inferior streams coming in from th'e left,
such as could draw their water from a short dis
tance only ; and I often saw the mountains at
their heads white with snow ; which all ac
counts said, divided the waters of the tfescrfrom
those of the Columbia, and which could be no ' he Platte, the Arkansas, and the Grand Ri
ofher than the range of mountains which form ! ver fork! of the Rio Colorado of the Gulf of
the rim of the basin on its northern sidcj And ! California ; th4 Passes at the heads of these
in returning from California along the Spanish rivers ; land the three remarkable mountain
trail, as far as the head of the Santa Clara
tork of the Rio Virgen, I crossed only! small
streams making their way south to the dolora
do, or lost in sand as the Mo-hah-ve jj. while j
to the left lofty mountains, their summits! white
with snow, were often visible, and which must
have turned w ater to the north as well as to the
south, and thus constituted on this part the sou.
thern rim of the Basin. At the head of the
Santa Clara fork, and in the Vergas de Santa
Clara, we crossed the ridge which parted the
two systems of waters. We entered the Ba
sin at that point, and have travelled in! it ever
since, Having its southeastern rim (the ;Wah-
satch mountain on the liljt. and crossing tho
1. . . . ' o r to
streams which now down into it. 1 he j exist,
ence of the Basin is therefore an established
fact in my mind ; Jts extent and contents are
yet to be better ascertained. It cannot be less
than four or five hundred miles each way, and
must lie principally in the Alta California : the ,
demarcation latitude of 42 probably cutting a
segment from the north part of the rim. Of
!ts interior dui nine is Known. 11 is cniien a
desert, and from what I saw of it, sterilitj' may
be its prominent characteristic; but! where
there isso
so much water, there must be ,some
- . . 1 i
oasis. The great river and the great lake re
ported, may not be equal to the reportj ; but j
where there is so much snow, there must bei
streams; and where there is no outlet there j
must be lakes to hold the accumulated waters,
or sands to swallow them up. In this eastern
part of the Basin, containing Sevier, Utah, and
the Great Salt lakes, and the rivers and creeks,
falling into them, we know there is good soil
and good grass, adapted to civilized setdenVents.
In the western part, on toaimon 1 rout nyer anu
some other streams, the same remark may be
. f
" r "
! niad.
The contents of this Great Basin are )et to
be examined. That it is peopled we know; but
miserably and sparsely. From all that I (leard
and saw, I should say that, humanity here ap
peared in its lowest form, and in its i msfelc
mentary state. Dispersed in single families ;
without fire-arms ; eating seeds and insects ;
diin roots, (and hence their name)--such is
thfi-nnndltinn of the ffreater part. Uthers are 4
a degree higher, and live in communitijes upon
some lake or river that supplies fishy arid frorn
which- they Tepulse the' miserable Diggcr
The rabbit is the largest animal known ip this
desert j its flesh affords a little meat ; and; their
baff.like"fcbveriff is made of itskmk.tiThe
WiM Mttfk i thtr nnlv wood, and here! it is of
extraordinary size--sohietimes a foot iri diame
ter, and six or eight feet higb.- It serves lor fu
fel. for building material, for shelter to jh$ rab.
bits, and for some sort of covering for he , feet
j counts of the inhabitants and productions of the
ana iei?s m co a weaiuert - uuvu;iw ty
"w:-:i- O",.,.;
Great Basin!; arid which, though imperfect,
must have some foundation, and excite our de
sire'to know he whole.; r ' : t
;" The whole idea of such a desert aridsuch
a people, is a novelty in our country, and ex
cites Asiatic, not American ideas. Interior ba
sins, with iheir own systems of lakes and rivers,
and often stetjl, are common enough in Asia r
people1 still in ;the elementary state of families,
living in deserts, with no other occupation than
the mere animal search for food, may still be
seen in that ancient quarter of the globe ; but
in America stich things are new and strange,
unknown and Unsuspected, and discredited when
related. But I flatter myself that what is dis
covered, though not enough to satisfy curiosity,
is sufficient to excite it, and that subsequent
explorations Will complete what has been com
menced. I.
' This aiccoant of the Great Basin, it will be
remembered, belongs to the Alta California,
and has np application to Oregon, whose capa
bilities may justify a separate remark. Refer
ring to my journal for particular descriptions,
and for sectional boundaries between good and
bad districts, I can only say, in general and
comparative teirms, that, in that branch of ag
riculture which; implies the cultivation of grains
and staple crops, it would be inferior to the At
lantic Stales, though many parts are superior
for wheat ; while in the rearing of flocks and
herds it would claim a high place. Its grazing
capabilities are great ; and even in the indi.
genous grass now there, an element of individ
ual and national wealth may be found. In fact,
tho valuable grasses begin within one hundred
and fifty miles of the Missouri frontier, and ex
tend to the Pacific ocean. East of tho Rocky
Mountains, it i? the short curly grass, on which
the buffalo delight to feed, (vhenc3 its name of
buffalo,) and which jg still good when dry and
apparently dead. West of those mountains it
is a larger growth, in clusters, and hence call
ed bufichrass,and which has a second or fall
growth. Plaips and mountains both exhibit
them ; arid I hive seen good pasturage at an
elevation of ted thousand feet. In this sponta
neous product, the trading or travelling cara
vans can find subsistence for their animals ; and,
in military operations any number of cavalry
may be moved,; and any number of cattle may
be driven ; and thus men and horses be sup
ported. on long expeditions, and even in winter
in the sheltered situations.
"Commercially, the value of the Oregon
country must be great, washed as it is by the
north Pacific ocean fronting Asia- producing
many of the elements of commerce mild and
healthy, in its climate and becoming as it na
turally will a thoroughfare for the East India
and China trade." 1
But little novelty of incident befell our
travellers durftTg their comparatively easy
journeyi ng homeward. On the 13th June
they were about two degrees south of the
Sou-4sln the Rocky Mountains,
and j
Our (course! home," says Capt. F., " would
have beep easlwardly ; but that would have ta-
ken us over eround already
examined, and
therefore without the interest which would ex
- I ' -4 ' -
cite curiosity. (Southwardly there were objects
worthy to be explored, to wit. the approxima
tion of the head-waters of three different rivers
coves called Parks, in which they took their
rise. Uue ot tnese rarks was, ot course, on
the western side of the dividing ridge : and a
- visit to it would require us once more to cross
tne summit ot tne itocky Mountains to tne
west, and then to re-cross to the east ; making
in all, with the transit we had just accomplish
ed, three crossings of that mountain in this sec
tion of ijts course. But no matter. The coves,
the heaps of the rivers, the approximation of
their waters, the practicability of the mountain
passes, nd the: locality of the tiihee parks,
were all objects of interest, and, although well
known to hunters and trappers, were unknown
to science and to history. We therefore chang
ed our course, and turned up the Valley of the
Platte instead of going down it.
" Wei crossed several small affluents, and a
gain made a fortified camp iri a grove. The
countrvlhad now become very beaut iful -rich
.1 ; . s . 1 n 1 m w .1
in water, grass; and game ; and to these were
added the charm of scenery and pleasant wea-
ther."
After an interesting visit to the " New
and Old Parks," which are described as
being fertile and well wooded and water-;
ed valleys, and " a paradise to all grazing j easy ; that the -proportion of absolutely
animals," the party arrived on the 22d j barren country is small ; that, from with
June at the summit of the dividing ridge, in one hundred and fifty miles of the Mis
to which CapJ. F. gives an estimated souri frontier to the longitude at Fort La-
height of 11,200 feet.
Onjthe 23d we were met by a party of Utah
women,;' who told us that on the other side of
the ridge their-village was fighting with then
Arapahoes. As soon as they had given us this
- 1 .1 ' 1 .1 . 1
' . - - . t .1 - . j
j jntorma ion, tney nuea tne
lamentations, which made us understand that
some of their chiefs had been killed.
" Extending 4long the river directly ahead of
us Was a low pincy ridge, leading between it
and the stream a small open bottom, on which
the Utahs had fery injudiciously placed their
village, according to the women, numbered a
bout 30) warriors. Advancing in the cover of
the pines, the Arapahoes, about daylight, char-'
ged into the village,driving off a great number
of their!-horses iind killing four men ; .among
them the principal chief of the village; They
drove, the horses perhaps a mile beyond the vil
lage to Ithe end lof a hollow, where they had
previously fbrted at the edge of the pines. Here
the Utalis had iristaritly attacked them in turnj'
andi acj6fdirig to the report of the women, were
getting rather' best of the day." 'lTie women
pressed us eagerly to join with their Deople,'and
would mediately have provided us with the
best horses at tho village ; but it Was not for us
10 inienero iii.butu ... .iieuHn
o interfere m.sucn .-cuauicu
were our friends, nor under our protection ; and
OLUMETi:-
each was ready to prey upon us that, could.
But. we could not help feeling "an unusual ex
citefnent at being within a' few hundred yards
of a fight, in which 500 men were closely en-:
gaged and hearing the sharp cracks of their
rifles.. Wp were in a bad position, and subject
to be attacked in it.- Either party which we
might meet, victorious or defeated, was certain
to fall upon us ; and, gearing up immediately,
we kept close along the pines of the ridge, hav
ing it between us and the village, aud keeping
the scouts on the" summit to give us notice of
the approach of Indians. As we passed by the
village, which was immediately below us, horse
men were galloping t'pand fro, and "groups of
people were gathered around those who were
wounded and dead," and who were being brought
in from the field. We continued to press on,
and crossing another f rk which came in from
the right, after having made fifteen - miles from
the village, fortified ourselves strongly in the
pines a short distance from the river."
The party arrived at Brent's Fort on
the 1st July, wherejhey were received
' With a cordial welcome and a friendly hos
pitality, in the enjoyment of which we spetit se
veral agreeable days.- We" were now in the
region where our mountaineers were accustom.
cd to live, and all the dangers and difficulties of
the road being considered past, four of them in
cluding Carson alid Walker, lemained at the
fbrt.
The expedition reached the little town
of Kansas on the banks of the Missouri
river on the 31st July, having made a jour
ney of 3,702 miles from the Dalles' of the.
Columbia, and of 2,560 froin Capt. Sutters
settlement of New Helvetia.
" Duriug our protracted absence of fourteen
months, in the course of which We had neces
sarily been exposed to great varieties of weath
er and of climate, no one case of sickness had
ever occurred among us.
44 Here ended our land journey ; and the day
following our arrival, we found ourselves on
board a steamboat rapidly gliding down-the
broad -Missouri. Our travel-worn animals had
not been sold and dispersed over the country to
renewed labor,hut were placed at good pastur
age on the frontier, and are now ready to do
their part in the coming enpedition.
The narrative concludes with the arri
val at St. Louis on the lGth of August,
where the party was disbanded.
" Andreas Fuentes also remained here, hav
ing readily found employment for the winter,
and is one of the men engaged to accompany
me the present year.
" Pablo Hernandez remains in the family of
benator Uenton, where he is well taken care of,
and conciliates good will by his docility, intelli
gence, and amiability. General Almonte, the
Mexican Minister at Washington, to whom he
was of course made known, kindly offered to
charge of him, and to carry him back to
Mi-rim nil i 1 1 ' hlY nri'li""'H to remain where
. 7 j ,
he was until he got an education,
shows equal ardor and aptitude.
" Our Chinook Indian had his wish to sec the
whites fully gratified. He accompanied me to
Washington, and, after remaining several
months at the Columbia college, was sent by
the Indian department to Philadelphia, where,
among other things, he learned to read and write
well, and speak the English with some fluency.
"He will accompany me in a few days to the
frontier of Missouri, whence he will be sent
with some one of the emigrant companies to the
village at the Dalles of the Columbia."
We have thus endeavored to furnish our
readers with such an analysis of Capt
Fremont's two expeditions as may, with
the copious extracts which we have made
from the narrative, enable them not only
to trace his adventurous course, but also
to estimate what he has accomplished,
and the great value of the information
which he has collected, in a geographical,
a commercial, and a scientific point of
view. We will not attempt a recapitula-
tion ; for where so much has been done,
and so well done, it-would be only to re
peat, in another form, the substance of all
which we have already said. In geo
graphical discovery Captain Fremont, has
done much: he has shown that the trans
it across the Rocky Mountains, particular-
ly at the Southern Pass, is comparatively
ramie. (105 deg. 40 min..) there is inen-
eral great plenty of the short early gfass
called buffalo grass. Westward ol Lara
mie, for a considerable distance, the region
is sandy and apparently steril, and the
place of the grass is usurped by the arte
mesia: other localities, where there- is a
deficiency of pasturage, are found on both
sides of the mountains. These expedi
tions, however, will furnish to trading car
avans, or to emigrating parties, a knowl
edge of the most practicable routes, where
they may most .generally nd: sustenance
for their animals and wateKand fuel for
themselves The road to Oregon will be
made comparatively, easy ; t and although
the emigrant who contemplates taking up
his line of march j to that distant region
ought to be apprizeVI.and guarded against
thijdanger thedtfiies;and: tteprivat
UonsM icitt haue tancounte
rjeneererl -nvJhefceintylthat
meet with nothing but what foresight and
prudence may in a great measure protect
! jvuuence , & , , . V ; ,
I NUMBER.25, OF VC
1 hipi from, and courage, firmness, and pcr :
severance overcome. Ilevill be -called
upon to exercise all these, qualities ;Jana
thef most Idangcrous . error . into Avhich
he can fall is" to' imagine the journey is an
easy one, and the toil and suffering which
he will have to undcfg:o : trifling and un'
important..- -f . - ..." . .j
The Grca Salt Lalse the . Bear Hiveif
Valley, and the'ri verslthe valleys, and tho,
mountainsiof Upper California may be
said to be how first' brought to the knowlf
edge
of civilized mau bythcsc expe'ditions;
coTrection of. our former; geographic '
The
cal errors witH respect to the. river Hue,,:
riayenlkra Ve !dwe. to Captain F. ; the ex ,
lstence of a great 'central plain or basin in
CaHfornials cstajIis1ifS-by hinvs is alsq :,f
the important fact that there is no river of s , r
atty navigable' size which lhas its outlet tin ':-r.:
reclly into the Pacific, and communication , -icith
the 'iMsierh'sloe'tyloiir, continent, 'ex- ,V. '-.'
cent the Columbia, between fifty degrees of ; -; v
northern latitudeand tlie Gulf California
In a military point of view "these " expedi
tions "point out where forts arid posts may!
be mosradvantagebusly cstablishedwitlii v
a view to the safe' occupancy of thec6un-j
try and the protection tho inhabitants
and the trader from Indiahoutrage,6rfr6m! -. 2.
aggressions or iriteVferehces bX any kind .
This, wel believe, ivas the professedly' aij- .V
thorized object ol Captainremoni'i 5 ,
peditions ; but his ardent and active Jcm-i ;
perament, and his love of science and , '
knowledge!, could riot rest satisfied "with "n . '
bare performance of prescribed 'duties. :
He has submitted to his countrymen aridj J j .
the worjd, in his unpretending and modest
narrative, a vast body' of botanical," geo ;";
logical,1 arid ' meteorological
The soil and thcjrierarvviitcrs have Jbceri
subjected to "analysis. More than jfour rr ,
hundred and thirty astronomical obscrva v
tions are recorded, the iatitude,,-and;thet
longitude of important points accurately. '
determined; and the elevation of moun
tains ascertained. The survey of CJaptairt,
Fremont from the eastward meets that of '1 j -j
Captain Wilkes from tho. westward, and, ;i ,
cr for n ? rnnniit fnr nil immediatft ntlf-
" . "" "", . . I.I if
.1. r . i 1 . -
poses, ine map 01. wregoiv ;is cumpiciu.p
The appendix to Captain Fremont's narj-v
rative contains Dr. James Hall's (of Newc , .
York) report upon the nature pf thegeo-j. '
logical formations occupying the' portions . 5 :
of Oregon, and California traversed iby j
Captain Fremont, as deduced from his obv v.."
servattons, and the specimens; ofminefals u
and vegetable and animal organic remains -which
he collected. . -( ,.js;.,-..;-Li -
Professor Torrey makes the following: -statement
with respect to tho 1 botanical ; u,
collections of the expedition : 'n,':' " '
" When Captain Fremont set out 011 his ; se-);
cond expedition he was well provided .with" pa--V.
per and other means Cor making extensive bet-:r
anical collections ; and it was, understood thai,
on his return, we should conjointly prepare ja i -full
account of his plants, to be appended to his
bout fourteen hundred species were v -
collected, many ot them in nl"!
:,
explored by any botanist. , In consequence,
however, of the great length of the journey, and
the numerous accidents'to which the party xvere?
exposeuVbut especially owing to the dreadful
flood of the Kansas, which deluged. the borders 1
of the Missouri, and iVIississippi,, rivers, morel,
than half of his specimens -were ruined before - .
he reached the borders of civilization. " Even f -the
portion saved were greatly damaged, so that,' ;
in many instances, it has been extremely difli-
cult to determine the plants. tAs there was not
sufficient time before the publication of Captain
Fremont's report for the proper study of the
mains of bis collection, it has been deemed a4- T
visable to reserve the greater part of them Jo in ;
corporate with the plants which we expect ho :
will bring with him on returning from his third;'
expedition, upon which he has just set out. '. ' h
"The loss sustained by Captain iFrctnonr,' '.'..
and I may say by the botanical. world, will," Wo l .7.
trust, be partly made up the present and next-;"
seasons, as much of the same countrywill ljot v '
passed over again, and some new regions.exv
plored. Arrangements have also been, mada i
by which the botanical collections, will , be pre. 4 ..
served, at least from the destructive eflects . of ' ;
water, and a person accompanies Iheexpcdi-',"
tion who is to make drawings of all the most in- : "
teresting plants. Particular attention will bo f
given to the forest trees and the vegetable pro- .i
ductions that are usefulm the arts or thataro s
employed for food or medicine." t ; ; ; f t
Professor Torrey furnishes in the appeot;
dix descriptions of about thirty hcw, genc
ra and species of plants collectedly Cap-
tain Fremont. : '
The oMccts of Captain Fremont's third v
exploratory tour arc, vis uujioc, vuiicvoj-
detailed in the follpvingl paragraphs,
which wc extract frorn a late number of r
the Western (Missouri) Expositor:
" The expedition Jo the Rocky Mountain
under command or Captain J.- C. Fremont,' of.
the-U. S. Army, being the third exploring tour
of thatofiicer, left Westport on the 20th'- June, -Captain
Fremont is as?istl by two junior offi,
cers of tho Topographical Corps, and employs d
i.A.tv mn The design of jhFs expedition i
to'complete the surveys of ihe plains and raoon-
otn Snt.rrenin!? between tho western bounda-.
tains intervening
heretofore partially7 accotn-
f the Arkansas river to its source, after.
completing whicbJhe party will bo ; divided.
One dirisiori.willthen retumJjy tvay of the head
of the Rio del Norte, through the country
Camaricbe'lndians, on the sources of theKfd ff
river; and by the low waters of the Arkansas.
The main division under Captain Fremont, will
cross the Colorado. complete ?
Great Salt Lake, and. penetrate e
of Mary's river, Which flows we st wardly rough; -Upper
Califomra. in thecuitty of the 42d de. -gree
parallel of latitude and x lost in a lake at
rv of the Pacrhe,
plished by the exploring squadron and the tvo-f
former expeditions ;of Captain : Fremont.;- As-
far as we can learn, this party will proceed lo j
I
si, -
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