4B
LIFEAC^e Charlotte
Thursday, October 5,2006
Thin models spur
a weight debate
THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
NEW YORK -Are models
too tiiin?
That’s the question of the
moment in fashion capitals
across the world. Here are
some of things people within
the industry have been saying
about the debate:
• New York Fashion Week
came and went last month
with little talk on the issue,
other than a few fashion-show
regulars noting that they
were seeing even more ribs
and vertebra than usual.
Meanwhile, Madrid banned
ultra-thin models from
appearing in its Fashion
Week. The British culture sec-
letary uiged London to do the
same, but organizers rejected
her plea, saying that design
ers deserved creative control
of their catwalk.
It was announced that in
Milan, Italy models will soon
have to present a health cer
tificate to appear on the run
way just like athletes need to
do before playing competitive
sports.
• Catwalkers—now mostly
an anonymous group of mod
els since Daria Werbowy
Carmen Kass and Karohna
Kurkova seem to eschew the
nmway in favor of ad work-
are the primary target.
“The place you tend to see
very thin is the runway and
models on the nmway tend to
reflect trends in fashion
design,” says Katie Ford, CEO
of Ford Models. After a parade
of “womanly” models in the
1980s, “The coimter-fashion
trend in the ‘90s was grunge.
That was a look that appealed
to very yoimg people, it was
almost the opposite of wom
anly The models were
airdrogynous, very thin—
heroin chic, which ended pret
ty quickly because people
I’ebeUed against it—but on
the runway, some of that
stayed on.”
• While the debate over run
way models has created lots of
headline, runway modeling is
only a small chunk of the
business. Catalogs, advertis
ing and magazine editorial
pages spend far more money
on models—and they also are
seen by a much bigger audi
ence.
Those models are still slim
mer than most American
women, but they are more
likely to be fit.
Wtness some of the nation’s
most popular models, includ-
ing Naomi Campbell, Heidi
KLum and Gisele Bundchen.
They’re all pop culture
queens, and no one could say
they look hanger thin, even
thov^ they’re certainly slim
and trim. “Womanly” super-
stars of the ‘80s and ‘90s—
Linda Evangelista, Claudia
Schiffer and Christy
Turlington—are also stfll
going strong.
“That very thin look isn’t for
us,” says Rachel Di Carlo,
spokeswoman for American
Eagle Outfitters. She says
with teens and young women
as the brand’s target cus
tomer, the company is more
interested in models who look
healthy and energetic.
• There is movement to
broaden the definition of
‘beautiful.” Doye famously
started to use “regular”
women as models two years
ago, and now is set to be hon
ored by the Cosmetic
Executive Women, a beauty
industry group, for its
Campaign for Real Beauty
“Self-esteem is closely
linked to body image,” says
Philippe Harousseau, vice
president of Dove’s North
American skin care imit.
“This was about raising self-
esteem, especially with
yoimger girls. It’s extremely
damaging for younger girls
who suffer fix)m body-issue
self-esteem issues. It can keep
them fixtm realizing their fuH
potential in life.”
Dove also sought to draw
men into the debate, airir^ a
TV commercial full of
teenagers discussing their
insecurities during the Super
Bowl. The result? Dads start
ed visiting the company’s
online chat ixoms to wei^ in.
• For the first time in recent
memory, a top designer—
Dolce & Gabbana, in this
case—used a plus-size model
in an editorial campaign.
Crystal Renn appeared in fall
ads.
• While the industry tackles
these issues, it also points out
that no one should confuse the
runway with reality
“In magazines, they are
icons of what is a fantasy,”
said Katie Ford. “Anything
that’s entertainment is a fan
tasy You see people jump off
buildings in the movies, but
you wouldn’t do that,” Ford
says. “Anytime people start
incorporating fantasy and
reality, you have a huge
issue.”
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