Newspapers / The Charlotte Observer (Charlotte, … / Sept. 1, 1906, edition 1 / Page 12
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V THE CHALOinTE NEVVS, SEPTEMBER 1, 1906. fee -a. ? I 72AZCS 7 ' mm- m Ms 1 ' "V-WvwXftV-.V 11. s if The Plain Tailored Shirt Is Promin nsnt Men's Shirts Mucli in Vogue Clever Touches of Novelty Dres sy Examples Become More and Mors j Extravagant Fine Net Blouses Be- j Extravagant Fine Net Blouses Wit.'i j Colored Slips Berfeath Stiff Col- ! laro and Cuffs Are Back Again rne , Matter of Neck Dressings The Cein- Wl ture a Vexed Question. j With the return of the severely plain i tailor-made for autumn wear the equal- ! l.y plain and severe tailored shirtwaist i the mart dressers refer to it as a short, and have it made by a masculino shirtmaker is thrusting itself quite into the fore-front of things. It is not so very different, thi.3 plain and sever-? shirtwaist, from what it has been in the past, 'i'retty much th? 1 same lines an the same materials ap- ' pear, although the search for some welcrme little novelty 'to introduce by way of relief goes on unubateG. Ona sees the perfectly plain cut. ' with no more fullness to it than a I man's shirt, upon which it is model-! el presents. Others again, equaliy I "tailor-mada" in appearance, present j a nuinoer or pleats as a reiiet, ana yokes are relied upon to break the monotony of style. Linen in high favor for such pur poses, both tile heavy German weave and the fined round-thread linens oi Irish manufacture. The old reliable tandbys, the cotton cheviots nowj there is introduced a cotton serge as, well as some of the daintiest damasse' ginghams and the usual imported Scotch shirtings, are vail on view, j well as some of the daontiest damasK" effects in eitherwhite or delicate tints, 1 with a tiny figure in a contracting color printed on the surface at far in tervals. Those latter goods have attracted the most favorable attention in spite of their price they are some $2 a yard in the bO-inch widths. Orders have te-n given to one smart shirt maker he makes for men chiefly, but does not score the orders of feminine patrons by any means for half-dozens of these, in different tints, and the monogram of the owner to be wrought in cotton threads tha color of the figure that appears in the design. For example, a pale pink is damasse in a moire surface, and at far intervals there is a tiny fleur-de-lis, conventional ized, of course, in a soft almond green The monogram i3 worked on the lit tle watch pocket in a green cotton the same tint as the fteur-de-lis, con trasting prettily with the delicate pink that makes the background. With such shirts there are stocks and belts made up to match, although the use of white linen stocks and belts.em broidered en suite, i3 countenanced by clever dressers for wear with the colored blouses that are undoubtedly giving the white waists a tustle for premier place in fashionable ranks. Passing: to the more elahnmto sfvio t.. Iff. ... iL: nil .Jt'ift-i' Mil Vw. K - Sl ' I k ' A ' ' JVC's -'Tv'feAX i rwsll 1 1 II III Ml I I 111 1 "ttiift 'wSAIgvt, -yr: . J 1 III I I FIB II I I I LI I W WW BUS! 7S vS IS- 4- f."-3i MJ-'Tll - C " . . .."X. I J mm t I1 1 mm seamstress of moderate skill can' make them up in short order. Odd lengths, too, of embroideries and laces are being offered at the most tempt- to look just so much taller and more slender. : ' - In those dainty little blouses thatare intended to express some ; degree of ing prices. One woman whose-tasty j urusssmeEs m msir wear exuavagancu is as boundless as her purse is slender J seems to run riot. Many of the most takes her seamstress along when I attractive ones are merely a melange bound on a bargain tour. The little I of lace real where the purse will af needlewoman discovers ; possibilities ! ford lt or as goodly imitations, as may in many a piece that her employer be where economy is an object. ISJoi would pass unnoticed and the result i tnat machine-made laces are always is that the woman is en,vied by her inexpensive, there are some .of them acquaintances for the number, style !that are IJTHte as costly as many real and originality of her possessions in i laces- Two tnree and even four kinds the seperate waist line. if lace, if well selected, may enter into The big shops and the little ones ,bl and in addition, an effective too, for that matter, are showing the new waists , as yet, except to a few favored customers. The stockrooms, however, are piled up with pieces or; scrap or two of embroidery will not be amiss to accentuate the design Handwork, wherever possible, is to i T V11 aPPe?-1- tre?end"l chines and attachments nowadays that ously later on. .For one tnmg, tnere jmnto nf om,rfliHm.io' , blousej. where that much overworked ! are some few little points in the con- siw 9nH Mttiv hv enmrarisnn ant? word "lingerie" is used descriptively, struction of the new models that dif- oftentimes it is. well nigh impossible i wiiitoMveiv, it js to be noted i ier irom wnat the summer season to tell the one from the other. Trans that recent importations in these are saw. Collars are higher, as though to narent. or , at. thfi most. semitransDar- XY a,"i'1J' itbmoueQ witn a tun-length c-ropnasize tee fact tnat tne at. uecma, feni, materials are the-preferred ones, fv.e;V -a mst elaborate finish, or Dutch neck has been laid away with and there are some charming little mat hangs tar down over the hand, the summer feuns and sunburn anafslips in delicate colorings to be worn reaching well to the knuckles at least, freckles. Sleeves,- as already noted, beneath. Oue can purchase ready un this, side we are clinging to the are noticeable long in the imported .made slins in China silk for a mere comiortacie, it not alwavs sis-htlv models, and there is ouit.R a marked trino k o,.., wm . v'hub m inis ao- lm siuue lowarus tne ironi, f0n double of . chiffon cloth, as- - it Vis d arm-covering in all but' the and there is not nearly so much ma-jcalled and-iust asic'arefully. fitted, to ot shirtwaists. The moment tenal at the waistline as the maker the - figure as . a skilled-dressmaker n a hint of lace or elaboration Put into the summer -models. - -Tbe-nnn manro?-'.V , , -. elbow sleeve, and manufacturers are difference in cut.' The. underarm seam'fer to have such made from the chif- imnms xn this ab- ni?.c to slope towards tfte tront, fon double of .chiffon cloth, as-it vis plainest I II :i r PVPTl n hinr rt nn . . 1 .. i . . - mi i ' . . . T . . . . mi - " " 1a,.o u: t:iatj:ji riLKJU f. "I'.u lilt; summer - muueia. - iue:pnn nimaro-- gets on a blous? the sleeve gets chop- effect b one that conforms far better i The more expensive the blouse, .the ped off short and it joins the proces- the new. figure, -'wherein.- the J)ust better it clings to the figure, There is sion of lingerie waists. , line is accentuated; the. , waist made1 absolutely, nor jmifing : orl sagging at Jast at this . writing, m the lull that , to seem smaller and rounder than it ; the waist." nopoueli" above the belt, comes between the close of one season did in the preceding corset- lines. J in the latest French productions. In ana tne opening or the other, one can" And speaking of the waist brings up! many of them the pleats that are neces- uiiu aUu bite K.aims or embroid- the subject of belts. It is to be noted! sary to confine the fulness at the waist mmmms m mm K AW v x 1 WWWV 1 ttWWW t a - - vs.? '- j i tin ? s f I t 1 2ZS. mm WW .81!-' . J4 3 5 sir wspssx i i t S The real lace mitten will. undoubted ly become an imperative part of the autumn and . winter bride's wedding costume. Many of" the most noted brides. of the summertime followed this old-time-fashion, much to the relief of the groom, the clergyman, the maid of "honor and all generally concerned. ' That awkward pause' while the bride surrenders ner bouquet to the maid of honor and tugs at a glove that is, nine times out cf ten, a size or so too small for her while ' the officiating clergyman is waiting to put the all important ring on her finger, is alto gether obviated in the wearing of the lace mitten. With the short sleeve the lace arm covering "is in .-better taste, especially when one can secure a lajce,'to matcn that 'of .the gown and the fingers. are free to receive the. ring without" any preliminary fuss or con fusion. " Many of the summer's brides wore" the mittens that their mothers wore at ; their weddings - during the sixties and the early seventies, when real lace ' mittens, veil and parasol covers were a part of -every gentle woman's trousseau, and those who have had to purchase them recently have had to pay a goodly price for similar ones. : The lingerie craze has extended even to linings' and dress shields. These latter indispensibles are shown in the shops with a drilling of narrow Val enciennes laces all around,' the shop-woniah- sometimes explaining that in pinning, the shield into summer waist3 tiny safety pins caught through the lace avert": the possibility1 of piercing, and thereby riiining the shield itself is avoided. : -'. - Lringerie linings of -the little" coats,, fashioned -from silk .of various kinds-and- enriched " with hand embroideries, are offered. "These are usually in a sheer layn or-batiste and are trimmea with lace edgings; pleatings, insertions and the like. They are supposed to cover the, rich brocade which makes the lining for all the new v-xaps and to be taken out and laundered as often ns mav he depmerf necessary. A tack-, - . r . , , " """'u mtv. a.n me Desi masers are rurnisn- are maae aner tne manner or aari.s: . r-. r,c,ot. tr. facture harming little. blouses. There. ing their patrons with belts to match 'and the material cut' away beneath so is all that is ?fceaa7 to noId, ore pattern waists, done on the finest the blouse. The order has gone forth! that every unnecessary inch of bulk them m place when In wear . ' of hwerchief lineji on both cotton that-a long and slender waist is to be or bunchiness is done away. with. : Jerretelles are sh own wit h lr ttle end linen -batiste -and; some on sheer tne thing, ahd! the ceinture to" match In all: manner: of .waists "the -yoke is fanciful coverings-, of lac n and lace m iuu..u.1,..iu ai Known tne waist aids inVcreating: the effect. making itself . quite conspicuous. It; .u&uai 1 iT slinneri or. nr. h ronr-ri DmhrniflorioQ H-.if K -., - . . 0 - . . . ti inrori n ST IS Slipped Oil tnat covers tne rich satin rib- eLmIe? taW? fore.Shorter.e0,:.:on;:mattcr howj built as toVeXtend:well:ovethe sleeve bon from aoiL - - ; D"T" " " "V - Vvtirs- much sloped and pointed or how clever- seam oh' the shoulders,' and so aid ;in; - The mtle. lingerie .Ti'st. now tftosft nav r?r nii-,"naco,i 1.. iu. , - . . I .. . . . . .. . . . . . anil nn mnm iq wti; vt r iDfiiunajrDem. Uut with tne tne broau-snoumer ,tme tnat is . so just cove s tne - --; nattering to the seemingrsize of one s back again, ana many 7 " ;s iurmsn some wi i- ith each client's corset. : A fancy ft? ??vi,n? tpoto f bolt matching the. waist, in color if Mattering to the seeming' size of one's back agi them a few choit vecks ap, and with not in material, Just the 'opposite re- waist. setleres an illustration-to work trom even a suit, is-achieved, and-the figure madel Saunterlngs irv-Fashion Land. , . such wit pin or two hold them in place, so that they may be instantly removed for the necessary visit to the laundry. Roman striped ribbons, in gay color ings, are being much used for sash, belt and eravait purposes. On some of was asked the first crop of felt hats most oil Society leaders and residents of the the outing patterns a scarf is made most fashionable part of New York to match the cravat and ceinture, thus . must be taking to quite a course ot bringing the entire outdoor costume reading on household topics, if one ts into harmony. Various shades of red to jrdge from the display in the'win for the ground color and vivid stripes, 1 aows cf tne leading book shops, in which gold and pale blue are Books upon domestic science, the sev rrominent, seem to take best, and it eral departments of housekeeping, cul niust be confessed that they make a mary hints and wrinkles, furniture, pretty splotch of color on the tennis nome decorations and like are per ground, the golf links and in the bril- sistently displayed; and the latest liantly tinted autumn woods. ; ' authorities on all of these and other It is prophesied that the vogue of kindred, subjects are indicated by the pale pastel colors for tailor-made placards conspicuously. Gardening, wear is to be renewed for winter wear. too seems to come in for a share , of Last winter a few of the fashionab:e attention; but there seems to.; be no sported tailor-mades in pale blue, a room for anything else. If it were but faint rose shade ana the lightest pos- one shop that made such a display, sible -terra cotta, fovor being distribut- one might pass it without comment; ed in about the order named. The Dut when some half a dozen, t well off-color, whites, too, are to.be receiv- spaced; all seem actuated by the same ed in good company, and the faintest idea, it affords food for thought, shades of gray and of lilac and laven-i "Water without and within" was the der are to remain standing. With soie prescription of a fashionable physi . furry- accessories those delicately tin- Cian to a wealthy patient; who came to ted costumes present an air of ex- him with a 11st of physical ills and. ail travagance . and dressiness in winter ments of ominous length. She could time, and with the short skirt that is no sleep, she "had no appetite, she worn for the street purposes they do was nervous and depressed, ;and on not show soil as easily in their career ad infinitum. ...'.'v.. :i;.". - ; as might oe expected. - As a seneral thing, women do not The craze for jewels and j'ewelery appreciate plain wate"r as much as ;theyj. is on the increast. in 1'aris it is no .should do: A sponge off in tepid-aot longer considered in bad taste, ' or at ,ccid water when fatigued will prpye all reprehensive, to wear imitation more refreshing than anything else.VA jewels. It must be conceded that tne giaSs of cold water, not too cold, taken Parisians excel in manufacture and tne jast thing at night and another the mounting of those imitations, many first thing inthe m orning will overccome of which are calculated to deceive any many complexion ills. When nervous, but an expert. It must not be imagin- a giass 0f plain water, sipped slowly, ed however, that such pieces are wij j prove calming. By the way, this cheap or cheap looking. The settings same physician says that water, when are of gold or platinum, and the mount- drunk cold and quickly, acts as a de ing is done by. skilled jewelers, sctat, -pressant on tne heart and nerves; a3 far as the labor and sk;ilf,9.reon: when sipped slowly, it acts as a gentle cerned, real jewels do not. receive any stimuiant. . .. . . :. "- better treatment. - - . - - j A gallon of water daily, taken In A fancy neckpiece, a long cnain o half-pints doses, is said to be absolute pearls, four or even more rings on ly necessary to health in warm coum either' hand and a couple of bracelets tries, and three quarts in the same is not considered any too great a dis- period is the prescription, for these play at present. And if a fancy brooch latitudes. The stout woman . must or two be added to the corsage the plan to do her drinking between meals, wearer is still well within the limits taking no fluids for half an hour before of present taste. - - J or an hour after meal3; and her;sklnr Beautifully artistic designs are dis- ny sister may follow the same" .rule, played in those Vsimili" pieces, as they but take even more fluids. . vjj;-; are termed abroad. A spray for. the 'In washing the face with soap and hair was shown in small cut 'bril-, water one is . expected to rinse off -in Hants imitation, be it understood, not less than four waters, .making. the The center was a wild rose, and a . last one as cold as possible and . dash spray.of maidenhair. fern extended for ing it with both hands against the" skin', some six inches on either side of this, so that a little shock of contact" is in- .. I ; - -- duced. "This vill tend to harden both skin and muscles of the face, prevent, or at least forestall, wrinkles by con tracting the tiny pours on the surface and the nerves and muscles under neath. Popularity of the Tailored Shirt ' waist. The popularity of the tailored shirt .waist for morning and outdoor wear is vastly on the increase, and the stock and the belt worne therewith are expect ed to be of the some plain and severe type. All sorts of wash materials, provided that they be of sufficient body and firmness of weave, are In vogue, and handwork, except in the buttonholes, is not expected. Three or four broad pleats are laid on either side of the front, coming well out on the shoulder, and making for that broad line which is the accepted thing just now. The fastening is usual ly effected with buttons and button holes posed in the center of a stitch box:, pleat, and stitched down side pleats serve to adjust the fulness at the waist: Most of the recent designs display a - laidon. yoke in the back, usually shallow, and with a point in the center: The sleeve follows tne re gulation shirt patterns except that it is fuller in the top than were those ot last season, and the stiff cuff is the inevitable wrist finish in this type o; blouse. Stock and belt are of linen and embroidered to match, a fad that has been extremely favored during the summer, and promises to maintain all of its hold during the winter season. Plaids Make Popular Trimmings. The tailor shirt maintains all of its hold upon current fashions, despite the overwhelming popularity of the frilly and oftentimes too fussy lingerie blouse. Linens of a goodly firmness, madras, .. cotton . serges and cheviots, and the new linen drill, are all favored, and a plain severity is their distin guished hall mark. The waist pic tured is from a house well and favor- the mounting in every way. aove r rather a novel innovation in the use criticism. And for this the sum OtJ0f a hias straDDine sewn flat to the 1,000 francs (roughly estimated,$200) fiinen .between the broad box pleat ';f;-4 iiiiMiiMiiMiw The setting was cf platinum, the bril liants carefully cut and pollished, ana that occupy the fronts. The back is similarly arranged, but with three.in stead of five pleats, and on the should ers there is the same little strip of bias plaid , inserted . between the pleats. The collar is of the linen drill, with the plaid for trimming, and the smart little Windsor: tie is a separate affair, though made from the shirt materials. The sleeve is comfortably full through out, the shoulder seam broad, and the wrist finished with a stiff linked cuff. For wear with a walking skirt, this model is one that will be sure of a popular acceptance throughout the season. In Lace Melange. There are so many inches in even the best-equipped wardrobes that the lace blouse alone can fill that the reason for its vogue is not far to seek. The fancy for a combination of two or more laces in the one. design still continues, the genres being pretty well contracted. Tue laces, however, must be carefully chosen, else the result would .be one suggestive of bargain counter forays and remnant finds. Where at all possible, such little blous es . are . best fashioned by hand, and faggoting and fancy lace stitches used to join the different strips. In the picture "the -yoke is made of a sprigged Valenciennes joined with a Cluny bead ing;- wptile broad Cluny is alternated with an appanzall for the.body of the blouse. The short sleeve is of tne same material, and bias bands of white satin over ' laid with a narrow edging serve to give a little touch of character between . the strips of lace. A large V-shaped set piece in embroirery is posed effectively on the front, and the fastening is as usual, in, the back. Fine Flannels Again In Favor. After, quite a period of neglect the shirt-maker is taking up those soft and fine flannels once more. Recent im portations show those goods in all of the daintiest tints and patterns imagin able, and so far from being at all thick and - heavy late productions well de serve to be described as chiffon flan nels. In many ways they are fully as light as an all-wool challis is wont to be. The model illustrated is in a very pale blue .flannel, with Jrintrfng 5n sapphire tints and a little spray show ing a pale pink flower and green foliage. Deep pleats occupy the shoul der seam ; affording sufficient width across ,: the . front. . - The underarm seams are deeply curved . toward the waistline, and the" pleats that adjust
The Charlotte Observer (Charlotte, N.C.)
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Sept. 1, 1906, edition 1
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