THE CHABIiOTTE ITEWB, StTiniAT MOBNHTiGK MA^T 8l, lOT
f
>.' t
.0
IC
.1
J 1
Ir
o
fS
S
• i{
JC
)ir.
:«
10
lo
le
ra
h(
u
r
01
p
lo
nr
tl
01
tl
2-
o
tl
Iz
1^1
‘ J
I 5.
.«■
I ?
;/
(;
isl
ii
/
i
Tile CIiic Fpencli Type
ol*‘tta’t'vrilTi 'Da.eti and Psr>in6
I
Cc;
The En^li^’fi Type
wilili It’s Gracef ui ^phu
Diminutive Bdnnets Hold Their Own With
Picture Types=Yeiled Flowers the Fad =•
Streamers Add Grace To Hany Models
Uncurled Plumes Now The Fad.
By the time the trees have
leaved out Into June fullnesa
of green, the flrat straw hat
has berun to look paase.
Nowadays the winter hat season lasts
for only four months out of the
y**r. the sti'aw hat season for fully
•ifht, for while summery days lap
Jar over Into October at autumn
tlm«. every woman has her spring:
hat either on her head or planned by
the end of February.
In summer time, moreover, one
needs twice as many hats as in win
ter when there are not innumerable
costumes for street, country, fete,
traveling and athletic wear, to be
matched with appropriate millinery.
And even if one did not need half
a dozen or more straw capeaux, the
hats are usually so fascinating in
their summer gaiety of fabric and col
or that one would have hard work to
resist buying them whatever one’s ad
mirable intentions.
Picture Hats for the London Season.
This year the Coronation festivities,
coming so soon now, have lent an
added impetus to all sartorial plans,
and Paris couturiers and milliners
have surpassed themselves in prepa
ration for this event. It is said that
over a hundred thousand Americans
will be in Liondon at Coronation time.
Many are already there and the won
der is, how they are all going to
get home again. Those who are
merely travelers, sojourning In Lon
don to witness the Coronation time
orowds, procession, and other events
will not concern theniselves greatly
with this occajilon from a sartorial
•tandpolnt but there are scores of
American women r/ho will be repre-
a^ted In the social festivities which
ar« to be brilliant; and scores more
Who though not taking any immedi
ate part In the ceremonies will form
part of the gay throng at the Carl
ton, the Savoy and other fashionable
hoftleriefl.
All this means a very splendid
•qulpment in the way of clothes
and especially of hats, for most of
tha occasions will call for handsome
Cowns accompanied by beautiful hats.
EnclUhwomen Favor Immense Hats.
With their elaborate and ceremo-
XUoua toilettes the Englishwoman In
variably wears a large hat of the
picture type; small headgear being
deemed by her appropriate only with
tailored oostumea. These English
picture hata have less of the dash
which characteria:es tho Parlsienne’s
mllltnery, but they are often more
cmceful than Frenchwomen’^ hats
Englishwomen are beautiful where
Frenchwomen are chic and the En
glish beauty's hat is selected to form
a frame and background for her face
Instead of to impress by ila own In
dividuality of stylo.
Threo typically English hats, that
la. hata designed by Paris milliners
for thre-j young English ladles of
rank, are illustrated. All three of
th**s* beautiful picture hats are in
tended to accompany Paris made
gownK, though they have been photo
graphed, of course, on pretty Pari
sian
Po;*hu))fj tho most Enffllsh in its
pJct’jresquo typ;, of theho Ihreo hats,
In the jovely (”har!«>ttc model of leg-
lit>rn trimmed with grap'o clusters.
The coIi)i-;np of this hat la as strik
ing as ll:*« inrfc-rt firacn of tho liiicS'.
Iho ’vtriii orim 'in.-M.s at •'ino
apr‘>^*:*r-* y ’ViQ :phl -. t the
gm;.M tr'.;Tirn jij;. 4t iho idher siOo
It \>j liit itcoif tu reveal the
waves of hair beneath. The grapes^
made of silk—are In shades of pale
green, mahogany and reddish violet.
The leaves -are silvery green and the
, velvet twisted under the grapes
! against the creamy straw is in the
, violet tone. On the upper side of
the brim is a frill of cream lace.
Another of these hats, a superb
Susanne Talbot creation. Is loaded
with wonderful ostrich plumes—
plumes that are white as you glance
at them and then as they move re
veal fiery coral colored hearts and
tips of the same vivid color. The
hat l8 a graceful model of ol(i, gold
Milan straw, the whole hat having
I been designed to accompany a thea-
j ter coat of old gold fabric trimmed
I with white Venise and gold lace and
j lined with coral colored satin,
j The flower trimmed hat Is a gar-
i den type, for wear with lingerie
frocks in the afternoon, and Is girl
ishly simple in line yet rich enough
for a young ■ matron’s wear. The
straw is pale pink chip, the huge bow
^ at the right side matching in color.
The brim is caught back at the left
of the front and over it trails the
j rose and orchid trimming which al-
I most covers the crown. This hat Is
! in shades of rose and delicate mauve.
The whole style of the hat suggests
grace and charm rather than dash
or daring, and the deep brim casts a
: most becoming shadow over the face.
Lace an Important Trimming Feature
Essentially French in type is the
I dashing marquise hat with its up-
I turned brim and aigrette trimming
sweeping off at one side. This hat Is
also intended for wear during the
coming London season. It has not
the simplicity and charm of the flow-
' er trimmed garden hat but it is in-
I finitely more chic—and what is more,
only a beauty could dare to wear it,
while almost any woman might ven-
ture to wear the shady, flowered pic-
I ture hat. This gay little Madame
I marqulae chapeau Is a Reboux model
' anC is all in black and white, the
hat Itself being of white Panama
straw, though little of it Is visible,
for the dashing brim which turns
j up sharply at back and front is faced
1 with Irish lace, laid over black velvet,
I the black velvet appearing around
j the edge of the lace disc as well as
I making an effective background for
, the handsome pattern. The aigrettes
are black and white. With this smart
hat is shown part of the restaurant
' frock It is to accompany—a frock of
I emerald green chiffon sewn with
I rhinestones and Jet, the chiffon of
; the bodice being laid over white, and
flesh pink chiffon crossing the open
ing of the decolletage. The hoop ear
rings of diamonds and emeralds are
a feature of this stunning costume.
■Streamers add Picturesqueness.
Many of the large picture hata In-
j tended for fete and restaurant wear
have long streamers at the back and
I the woman who loves graceful effects
will delight in these streamers which
are almost invariably becoming. Vel-
; vet ribbon i s usually chosen for
, streamers and the long ends of the rib-
i bon are knotted together just below
tho back of the neck, tho two stream
ers falling together over the shoulder;
or one being brought over the shoul-
, der and the other trailing down the
jbcck. The-:' long hat ribbons are
. not worn -. n street hats—any more
^ than oer»«!nonlous traina are worn on
siioppi.i^' ,w;f!iumes o:- sashes outside
: cr .altored 'oatJ?. They are a feature
I of the dr«?aay typ« of hat and are In
Fascinating
"E>0TiTiet Type«
the worst taste appended to a tail
ored model.
The broadbrlmmed leghorn hat,
trimmed with roses and having black
velvet streamers falling over a grace
fully draped fichu makes a veritable
picture of its wearer and there Is no
reason—In this ^easpn of flowered
hats, of streamers and of fichus, why
every woman should not be a picture
—at the right time and In the right
place. It Is the woman who has an
Instinct which teaches her when to
look chic and' when picturesque who
never makes a mistake In dress or
wears the wrong thing at the wrong
time. ,
Flowers VeUed with Malines.
Veiled flowers are the ffed, and
often color effects that could not be
accomplished In any other way are
achieved jby wrapping cerise chiffon
ov.r blue hydrangeas, shrouding vio
lets with brown tulle, or the like.
This notion also offers a suggestion
to the woman who has some hand
some, but not quite perfect blossoms,
left over from a year ago. One of
the smartest hats noted In a Fifth
Avenue restaurant the other day at
luncheon hour was a black hemp
model faced with gendarme blue vel
vet and trimmed with a wreath of
pink roses veiled with several layers
of black malines. The soft color and
graceful forms of the roses showed
through the - airy black fabric but
whether they had been last season’s
or were this season’s flowers was a ^ over a silk crovvn of som- deiir.u I
secret locked in the breast of the mil- | shade; again there be -ow/J
liner who made the hat. Another, rows of lace pleatlncs.‘one abo -et
pretty hat accompanying a neat lit-; other Rnt ^o e the
tie frock of blue foulard, was of black I ainra,- v ^
straw with a crown trimming of * boasts, a rosebud and
bluets veiled with black chantllly, a I velvet ribbon. Sometlaea
butterfly bow of the chantllly, wired | ornaments balance each other
and piped with velvet at the edges ; either side; sometimes there is a'
of the wings, or lace loops, standing; whole wreath of roses and the bit
upright at the back of the hat. | of a velvet bow M ill be at the back.
Much lace and much tulle is used ■ The smartest roses for bonnet trim-
on the midsummer, hats, and often, ming are the odd little fat wooden
huge bows' and choux of the tulle | affairs over which silk is folded to
cleverly fill out the , lines and give a I imitate rose petals,
much trimmed look at a modest ex- ; One of the dantiest costumes w''rs
pense; for, of course, yards and yards' at an out of town horse show last
of the airy tulle will'not cost as much week included a little dove gray mo-
as a single handsome feather. | hair suit braided with gray soutache
and having a broad sailor collar and
cuffs to match of white Yer.ise. With
Ideal for seashore wear are the this demure little suit was worn a
hats trimmed with feathers that need delectahle bonnet of dove gray straw
no curling and. never come out of over which were tiny iriils of ^Yhite
curl, for the simple reason that they Quaker lace, sewed one above the
are straight to ■start with. Strange i other, an inch of the gray strav; show-
to say these uncurled plumes are nothing between. At one side was a cius-
ugly, for thfe feathers are so rich I ter of violets. The pretty bonnet 11-
and heavy that there is no suggestion ■ lustrated is of Irish ’r.re over pink
of bedraggled limpness,in the thick : satin with a crown of plr.;: roses. Pink
fall of straight plumes. These un- ' ssttin, separating the rose cruwn and
curled feathers are also split into j lace brim, is tied in a flat bow across
quiUs which are wired and arranged the back of the bonnet.
to slant gracefully over the crown of j *-
the hat. Sometimes a whole “wreath” : A POSY IN THE COAT TO MATCH
of uncurled feathers encircles the! THE HAT.
crown In very graceful effect. I „ ., v , 1.
•yP your midsummer picture hat li
Quaint Bonnets With Summer Frocks, j 1 trimmed with roses, buy an extra
But the big, midsummer picture I ■ rose to arrange as a bouttonniere
hats are by no means driving out the j ^.t the crossing of the bodice fronti
captl\’ating little bonnets which have If r.ew bonnet is garnished v,;tii
evidently come 'to stay a while in ■ violets, a tiny nosegay of violets should
j feminine favor. It takes a reasonably; adorn the lapel of the coat. These
flowers need not be natural—indeed
the artificial blooms are the mori
fashionable—and the more expensivs.
too, for only the best artificial flonen
are used as corsage ornaments. K
there are no flowers at all in the smart
young face to stand the bonnet test,
' for the woman over thirty is apt to
i look a bit more mature in a bonnet;
‘ but for the girls these bonnets are
j bewitching, and with dainty little
; summer dresses—especially with fichu
I trimmed summer dresses^ they are hat worn with tailored summer suiJ
: quaint and charming enough. Some of white serge or mohair, the posy
j of the bonnets are made of straw in the coat front may be of any
I but the prettiest models are of lace' ferred flower but it must match a
; over a color. Sometimes allover coloring the dominant color nOi*
Cluny, Irish or Venise lace is puffed} the hat.
ONE shudders to think of the
fair equestriennes of the an
cient regime who wore velvet
habits and long plumed hats
in tho saddle. Perhaps, galloping
over the greensward and through the
forest paths the velv’et habits did not
gather dust, but they must have been
intolerably heavy—and hot. And how
did the riders ever control their pranc
ing steeds and at the same time hold
on dashing, beplumed hats? '
When summer comes, nowadays,
the women who ride sensibly discard
the formal Park habit and adopt com
fortable riding togs of linen, khaki
or some very lightweight wool ma
terial; and on very warm days the
coat is dispensed with, a smartly cut
shirt finished Vlth a stock at the neck
being worn with the riding skirt,
More and more women, each year,
are riding astride, though New York
was the last to look leniently upon
this custom. Cross saddle riding ia
even now not permitted at the an
nual Horse Show in November when
mc^st formal .and conventional riding
garb Is required; but women who
ha’. J enjoyed the freedom of cross
saddle riding at the Southern resorta
in the winter and at Tuxedo and
Lenox during the summer are loath
to sit cramped on one side a saddle
in a town, and each season more cross
saddle equestriennes are seen on the
bridle paths in the Park.
When a cross saddle habit is worn
it should be faultless in cut. The
woman who must buy an inexpensive
habit would much better content her-
aelf with the stereotyped alde-aaddle.
kind which does not so conspicuously
challenge criticism and remark.
There are smart coats which may be
worn over the riding habit when it
must be worn through the street and
tho woman who dreada being con-
The Riding Habit Owes Its Smartness
to Good Liines.
tractive she and the habit are, * the
more will they stare. Most of the
women who ride«in New York arrive
at the riding school, or at the Park
entrance where their mounts are wait
ing In taxicabs ok* private motor cars;
but now and then one meets a rider
afoot and almost Invariably the habit
is covered by a smartly cut coat of
light brown or gray mixed wool ma
terial or of dark gray mohair. Some
of these coats have loose belts at the
waist, the lines of the coat beneath
the loose belt being very straight and
not flaring at all at the foot. Below
the belt the coat is unfastened and
the wearer’s well cut, riding boots and
looped up skirt are visible.
A riding habit Is so absolutely sim
ple in style that it requires a master
hand in the cutting, and if necessary
other things should be sacrlflced in
the wardrobe in ocdek; to have riding
togs Irreproachable in style. The
habit shown in the | illustration is of
gun metal gray diagonal cheviot and
the coat has the length which is most
graceful both in and out of the sad
dle. With this dark gray habit ere
worn heavy kid gauntlets and riding
boots of supple leather which give a
pretty shape to the foot yet allow
every muscle of foot and ankleC frae
play in the stirrup. The hat is in the
Continental shape, which Is ideal for
riding, since it does not offer as much
resistance to the wind as a broad-
brimmed sailor shape.
Three correct types of riding hata
are shown: the cloth derby, which is
quit- different in shape from a mas
culine derby, and two straw hats, a
straight "brimmed, sailor and a Conti
nental shape. -Of all these hats, the
Continental Is mo^ comfortable on
under a crisp ribbon bow.
The four coi^rect types of neckwear
include the conventional stock, in this
case of pale blue basketweave madras,
a pique stock and four-in-hand, a lin
en stock with cravat bow, and a turned
down embroidered collar and striped
madras tie. The latter style of neck
wear Is youthful and also cool and
comfortable for summer riding. All
these belongings are'^washable aa
should be the horsewoman’s neckwear
which must appear, each day immacu
late and irreproachable. Tub blouses
of striped madras or thin linen are
usually worn with the khaki or linen
crash riding^skirt and smart stock;
but under a riding coat m^lny women
prefer the soft white silk shirt with
a turnover collar and tie; or the shirt j
may be finished simply with a neck- ;
band and worn with a madras stock.!
In summer time thin India silk
knickers may be substituted for the |
riding breeches usually, worn under j
t..J winter habit, but the breeches are'
best, for though the mind need not!
dwell on it, a possible tumble must be!
kept > in mind in the selection of the!
riding costume and trim, 'well fitting ■
riding b/eeches, tucked into the tops:
of the boots will not only look better i
in the event of a disaster, but they!
will be less likely to catch on the stir
rup and cause a tragic accident. For ^
this reason, also, it is always best to I
I have the riding skirt built by a skill-
: ful hand, for properly cut skirts are
: less apt to catch and drag the ri 6*
i than amateurish affairs.
I Long corsets are an abomlnat.oj
in the saddle, for in this sport 0 a
' others every muscle should be •
i and unconfined and the i:guie s cu
I be supple and flexible. A ‘u
' yet beautifully shaped corset “•
. be selected and if the hips are P ■
: nent they may be kept withm 0
' by a canvas or coutil hip c ■
! laced over the corset and coming P^
way to the knees. Rather a
busted corset should be
‘ horseback riding and the figure
I be as trim and compact as Is
jpatible with perfect freedom and W
' Ibility. ,. - c-jff.
I Jewelry of any sort, except J ^ ^
: links and unobtrusive scarf
! the worst of taste with a n
; If a watch is w'orn It should
■ securely in a safe pockeu ^
itor riding ia the ' " «
i which may be worn In th ,
and consulted without e - ;
necklace is w'orn it nius )
the shirtwaist and
worn
shculd
neath
lets must be worn tney
ered by t he gauntlets
Even fancy hatpins uotli'
Even fancy hatpms ^ ^
the hat—for reasons of safe^J^^ ,
ing else, being he^d on
broad elastic which passes
hair.
, th«l, head, especially for fast riding,
p cuoua usually wears one of these! but the aailor ia more youthful and is
a a, for folka will atare at a woman I always smart and trim When worn
«» a ndlng habit an^ th« moro *t-lwlth th« iMte Ini^ed and looped up
'  ' J.
' * r .
• ;-*•
Correct Headwear for Summer Ridius
■?