THE CHABLOTTB NEWS, STTNTJAT MOBNTirG, JTTLT 23, 1911.
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13
^oudoir^^ar
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JLuxupiou^
Copset Coi?r>ectly Adjasted!
A'BPeaKfast Cap Jy|?
in Dulch Style
ft
New Nightgowns With a Touch of Color-An
Attractive Traveling Negligee-Petticoats
Absolutely Without Slijffness - New
Negligees.
lia^ Indian
'.V. a '.f . . jv;i:;^ has
■ ^ 'W.Ii? rri"r. ;ii;rl lawre
B w iuxuti >u-—more ai;d n> Te friv-
■ " ■ - ri f>'p f-ttlsh i- 'harac-
tfr f r •?; • j .-, h. n> ■ ‘-•. I’crhiips
*'■ • v.'-‘ .11 ;ire ;.;r .Wing
lT!’-i • 1; ur.. .,)■ i‘ :. ■■ i •-, be-
' ’ ■ ''I- ?* ,.r UiI:U' IKhfcr,’
6- I'for ■ I). ; I.j:; : ; v.ith eu'h
new . ,\il bou-l- ir \V'nr nat-
t: . lly II.'—? ,k I-. this ■;» nf-ral trf-nd
' ■■-1 'j rl- 'iri. .:ii-i : t... .S'.rni;
:>•' ' ■■\\r ; :1  f flr ;:»;Hle
. - 1;1. ! f- L ions of
• ’ -1 ‘‘ 1\ ;irp ha’l ii> tull
frn\ t vii.nir ^r k?;, .-vc. fixj\ii.'-’il*;ly cut
ar*‘ ih'.'i;,' n*‘Klii;ct‘ ;,'aiinfri?M In audi
tion t'l *h- '\t r-i v:i trri n t richncsji of
th mil • 1 , Ari ait nf lowr. wDinan,
In N’f'V, I (irk for ;i vfpk *^ shujipinff,
wa li'ptur' i| \vit)i ;i ' lomJy « hlffnn
• fn • ‘1^ r 't' :i, jdrik hPioI! and
• Irnj ! M.-i ..If ;.s ;i {lf)Htlng
cl'iud aKalnfit a sunv.^t Bky. ‘‘Send
It th’ ''- I. ;;1 .■ 11| (Iffcf] (|.f'isl\-cly^
"I il.in t know whi thfr it’s lntf;ndyd
for - If I ! \\ n 111 ,i,i f\» w rap,
I . I w;'nt it.”
but
■ >ne :>f tl'M nv ^t Itfautlful nrKllK^'^s
br I. ;ht '>\'er frrim .i'ails this j»;ar
h'>! a cfint c.f Hfj-tH lacf* ovrr a foun-
datl .n K 'wn I. thin, palf jUnk satin.
Th-- jiink Hntln jrown \v;is \»'ry strnlt^ht
»»’■'* >■ - '' r 1 lin- :in! littfri Hu- fi«-
VII' li. ;,^t^ly vi't \vith(>iit Kathfra or
fullnt*t.:- iinywhoro. ovrr it the won-
d*rful ooa*' ‘-t soft, cri-arny laro, with
^rrareful Kpr>\s on a n«*t Krf>uni, was
Bh-:'.vn to t'lilU'Hr nilvrintnpi. In front
th^ ' oat ff-ll to the Uncf h and sIojj* d
downward t .ward Ihf back t(j the
edK»' "f the sn> il tr;i n «>n the pink
0atln '^Icrt. I'rcru'h n> kIIrpoh of thla
expenslvo charactt,r are bnllt of the
very pnb st pinks nnd bliicH, the dell-
cnti- rolorlnyr havlnn mix h to do with
the ch.irm of the parnu'nts. The
pinks ar*- *«. f.iln: fluit th«-y blend Into
the crpiimy tones .f the laee and the
very faintest blurs ar»‘ ns»>d -blues
that In any other material but ex
pensive Ratlns and chiffons would look
washed out.
A Snr«nie nnd Floweroci I’cttlcoat In
('oloiiini Stylo.
In contrast to the French creations
In those vairue colors, is an enchanting
boudoir costume which was worn by
a little English bride visiting In New-
port last week. Every -w'Dman Btop-
plnff at the house w’here this bride
wa.s vlKitinK is now having a negligee
made us near like hers as memory
can rccall. Thore wp.s a gay little
sacque of pale Ijlue satin, senil-fittlng
at the hack and trimmed w'ith real
lace Jabot frills in front, with elbow
frills tf) matf-h, and this little sacque
or « f>atee was worn above a petti-,
coat of flow'ered silk, pale blue with
big pink roses scattered over the sur
face. The flowered petticoat was
slashed around the foot to show a
soft llttlo undur-llounce of. laK:c, and
petticoat and flounce weVe short'
enough to reveal slend«*r anltles atid
tiny blui- satin mules with high, tap-
i-K nch heels. The costume was
' f mpb tfcd by a lingerie cap with a
lace frill around the face and a smart
of pale blue ribbon across the
front.
Hiigli.sh women are making a fad
of 'irionial iitgligees just now. In ac-
' ordance with the furore for all East
Indian effects in England. The East
Indian boudoir gown Is loose and bur-
n»>ose-like in shape and Is belted at
tho waiatlino with a flowing, fringed
.«a.'-b of some soft material w'hlch is
kn(jttcd at the side. These negligees
aro simply made, but the material is
extremely rich and the colors are any-
thl.ig but .simple. A model in mind
at the moment was of dark blue satin
oTjibroidered with gold threads and
jfoarl beads, the lining being of yellow
satin In a light mustard shade. The
.'a5'h was of crepe de chine In the
vivid yellow with gold fringe weight
ing the ends.
A Cap With Evpry Npjjliifee Now.
The craze for negligee caps seems
to have reached a climax. Every
boudoir gown has its accompanying
head-covering in the way of a dls-
tractingly pretty cap trimmed with
ropf‘3 or ribbons. These caps are very
b*.foinlng and, since they may be
worn over the simplest coiffure, they
^civ! the head a chance to resf from
its burden of curls, puffs and braids
and allow the natural hair a fair
chance to grow. One of the illus
trations shows a pretty summer negll-
gff* and cap, designed for a woman
who will wear these charming togs
while making a round of week-end
visits at country houses. Whatever
one may rely upon for solid comfort
In the privacy of one’s own bedroom
at home, at the week-end visit one
Is more or less on parade, even In
one s bftudoir and there must be a
suggf'Rtlon of luxury and formality
In the lounging gowns In which one
chats, gossips and plays bridge dur
ing the morning hours.
The negligee illustrated Is made o:
pale blue chiffon over crepe de chine
of the same shade, a fichu of the chif
fon being draped over the shoulders
in most graceful fashion. This fichu
is weighted with silk ball fringe and
one end of the fichu falls to the skirt
hem in front. With this dainty gown
goes a Corday cap of cream lace,
pleated at the edge. Under the lace
In front is a wide band, of blue satin
ribbon and a strap of the satin, with
small rosettes over the ears, passes
outside the pleating across the back.
Another boudoir cap in Dutch style,
with lappets over the ears and a
turned back frill, will appeal to some
women. This cap is trimmed with a
wreath of small 'pink satin roses and
green leaves.
'A l*ractical NcKligeo for Summer
Travel.
Frills and foams of lace are not
suitable for railroad train wear and
the w-oman who'Journeys in a sleep-,
Ing ca'r or even lu a boat hai • »po-
The SilR Slip Fils 'VyTithout a Wrinkle
S.-' '
A Gpaceruil
Kopnin^ Go^^^a of Tpenc
Qp^andie
", \y ^ - J
v-'iss: j
iLa.ce TeafejOwn.
fop Countpy Weap
clal negligee, w'hich while soft, light
and dainty enough to suit her fastidi
ous taste Is not elaborate or conspicu
ous enough to attract notice from
strangers. The satin negligee meets
most requirements of a garment of this
sort. The softest, limpest sa^in is used
and for this reason the negligees are
not cheap, but a sleeping car wraiJper
may be packed in scarcely more space
than a silk handkerchief w’ould occupy
and when shaken out is fresh and un
creased. Such gowns are cut on gratee-
ful lines, without fullness at the shoul
ders but with roomy, loose sleeves
and a raglan-like shape which com
pletely hides the figure lines beneath—
an Important point since one often
dejires to make the trip to a dressing
room uncorsetted. The sleeves come
below the elbow and the neck is fin
ished with a turnover collar. Some
times there is a loose belt or a knotted
girdle at the waist and there are al
ways one or two capacious pockets
in which small toilet needs may be
slipped. Such negligees are of rich,
not too delicate color, and are
trimmed only with groups of tucks
and stitched bands. Nothing In the
way of lace or fluttering ribbons Is
permitted.
For wear in the hotel bedroom, dur-
ln_ stops in the summer journeying,
a nretty and not »orv elaborate negli
gee of a somewhat more frivolous
character than the Inconspicuous
sleeping car wrapper may be a rest
and comfort to tired nerves. The
three-quarter silk sacque illustrated
is an excellent suggestion along
this line. This pretty sacque though
made of thin pink silk Is wash
able and, beinj made without
a lining, it is cool and light Ws
well. While not as long as a trail
ing negligee, it comes well over the
petticoat and is a bit more formal
than an abbreviated dressing sacque.
It would be hard to imagine a more
charming breakfast costume than the
little gown of flowered organdie and
lace which while *trlm and conven
tional in line is really a negligee in
character. The flowered material
falla only to the knee in front over a
petticoat of colored mull. The bod
ice is crossed, surplice fashion, over
a chemisette of lace and the flowing
sleeves are made of the plain, tinted
mull and lace. A ribbon girdle con
fines the material at the waistline.
Petticoats Partake of Narrow Lines.
Under the, slimpsy frocks of the
moment petticoats must be equally
'limp and soft, for the idea is to have
I the gown cling about the ankles In
limp effect* and the slightest flare fit
I the vznakeir everything all
wrong. Very smart petticoats of thin
satin come only to the knee and be
low that there are flounces of em
broidered chiffon. If a lingerie petti
coat is worn the flounces are of sheer
est muH g,nd lace and a “drop” flounce
underneath Is dispensed with. A pho
tograph shows a soft under slip for
W'ear beneath a summer frock of voile.
The upper part of the slip is of Italian
I woven silk which clings to the figure
■as far as the knees. Below this there
' is a flounce of very soft, thin messa-
I line. When the foundation slip Is
I built of lawn the flounce at the bot-
I tom is often of erribroidered mull and
some women make these slips of the
inexpensive sllkoline which may be
had in upholstery departments for a
few cents a yard. This fabric is very
soft and slimpsy in texture and under
frocks of lawn and batls.e it answers
very well.
All lingerie now is built on the
simplest lines, so that the narrow lines
of the frock may not be interfered
with, and many dressmakers advise
corsets that lace in fronL because of
the narrowness and plainness of skirts
at the back. Many women, however,
^ dislike the front lacing corset, and In-
I deed, a large proportion of the new
I corset models are made with the lac-
I ing at the back. New corsets are very
' low at the top, to give a low-busted
figure, but at the lower edge the ma
terial is built down to keep the hips
in subjection. A photograph shows
the latest French coriet which con
fines the hips and gives the rather
large, flat-waisted effect which is
known now as the “natural figure.’*
There seems to be a mania just now
for large waists and It cannot be said
that the effects achieved along this
! line are altogether pleasing. Too
; large a waist is as ungraceful as too
; wasp-llke a one and it is not likely
tha*; women will consent to look like
' meal sacks and field-laboring peasant
I women very long.
The very newest notion in lingerie is
the nightgown embroidered in color
and some of these little gowns are
exceedingly dainty, The ribbon, run
; through the embroidered eyelets, of
ccurse, matches the embroidery in
tint. A pretty little French robe du
nuit, seen the other day, had a yoke
and diminutive sleeves of pink mull,
scalloped and embroidered by hand,
the scallops being laced together
down the arm with pink ribbons run
rough eyelets. Yoke and nainsook
e»own were Joined under a beading also
run With pink ribbon. In the skirt
of the gown were set two bands of
the pink^mull between* entre deux of
lace. *
CHE fichu and the jabot continue
to dominate the neckwear situ
ation in the shops. Table after
table is piled with fluffy white-
jness and amazing bargains are to be
j picked up now in graceful fichus and
the one-sided coat frills which are so
I smart. This one sided effect in Jabots
I has reached extravagant lengths.
I Some of the frills are so'wide at the
I top that they have to be pinned or
hooked at the shoulder to keep them
! in place, though at the w^aistline the
; width is tapering and narrow. The
; frill flutters out from one side of the
i coat and covers the other front al-
! most to the armhole, a tiny hook be-
! ing sew'ed in the upper corner and a
corresponding loop in the shoulder of
the coat.
The very newest thing—according
to Paris notions, is the unfrilled frill
—so to speak. Instead of being gath-
end at the throat or niay have a tall
boned stock attached. Very fine white
or cream net gathered with the tiny
bobblnet used for a baby’s frocks,
makes a charming tucker of this sort
! and the slightly rounded effect is more
j becoming to some faces than the
; tucked cut squarely across at the top.
j The square lace yoke illustrated is
I designed for weg.r in a V E’lape sur-
’ plice bodice. These yokes can be
! bought at the neckwear departments
I in this form, but two or three little
i touches must be added to make them
I really dainty accessories. The top of
I the collar is rarely tall enough to be
smart and a half inch fold of batiste
; or satin will be a great improvement,
i as well as helping to keep the lace in
better shape. Three collar braces must
be put in, one at the back and one,
slightly slanted, at either side of the
I specimen and is in .the new style la-
I tended for wear with V shaped necks.
IA collar like this will add elegance
'and distinction to the simplest little
; cotton frock and-one such collar will
j be a better investment than hall a
! dozen of the cheaper sorts. An Irish
' lace collar may be laundered in onei
I own room over night. All that is dk-
Irish Lace Collar |
ered or pleated the lace which forms j front. It is best, also, to baste the j
the edge of this Jabot Is mitred so | yoke on a thin lawn gruimpe which j
that the fichu forms a square corner j comes just below the bustline and i
which lies obliquely on the coat front, keeps the yoke and collar In smooth j
That is, the corner of the lace lies position. j
diagonally along the edge of the front ^he Irish lace collar Is a beautiful
closing. There are variations of this
new straight jabot, which Is made us
ually of very wide filet or Calais lace
insertion, the pattern of the lace
showing up in beautiful effect against
the dark material of' a wool, satin or
mohair suit.
The sailor collar, made of sheer
l^awn or organdie with an Inch wide
hem at the edge is a pretty addition
to cotto;i frocks of dainty coloring
and these collars are matched by cuffs
which suggest the deeply hemmed or
gandie cuffs worn by a widow. These
thin, plain collar and cuff sets, how
ever, must be absolutely fresh and un
wrinkled to be smart, and their fresh
ness is a very evanescent condition,
since the material crumples at the j
least provocation, or grows limp and j
bedraggled if there Is the slightest j
dampness. More serviceable are col- |
lars and cuffs of allover embroidery
or dotted swlss and charming sets of
this sort may be fashioned by hand at
trifling expense.
The V shaped neck opening Is used
this summer and the depth of the
opening may be varied to suit the
occasion and the wearer’s Individual
type of beauty. When a deeply V’d
bodice is to be wofn In the street a
“modestie” of lace or shjrred net Is
tucked In Md this “modestie” may
Smart Collar and Cuff Set for Weaf
wltb Summer Frocks.
essary Is to soap the collar well aol
leave it a few moments soaking IB
hot water. It may then be ^^asliei
betw^een the hands and rinsed in
eral waters, a drop or two of bluing
being added to the last bath.
the collar out carefully on a plUow
and let it dry thus. When remo^’el
from the pillow it will be Just etlA
enouSh to keep its shape emartlf
w'ithout limpness.
A linen collar and cuff set with Iris'*
lace motifs Is shown in another pH®*
tograph. Such a set could easily b*
made during the summer vacation W
a clever needlewoman, and Wu®
pale pink linen would be almost si
pretty as the pure white. The embroi*
dered scallops and dots, of course,
much to the distinction of this hand
some set.
l^tty Collar and Yoke of Irisb Lace«