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a Coat ^ heapedL on
like Th-L? . Arlolhef"^^^Il:h^^l^Ae
Sable Now the Supreme Luxury in Furs - Orange
Fox a Fad in Paris-Superb Scarves and Muffs
for Evening Wear - Whole Costumes
Made of Fur Now.
fi
ORSE SHOW week is the official quisitely graceful, and while not de-
openinjf of the fur season in ' flninjf rtie figure too plainly it gives an
New York. Before, that date effect of slenderness and grace that Is
Set of ■BfecK.sfidW'htte
Fox wTorU\ a Small Foplans
'I' \ y'/; j' '
tur. .re worn, of cour=. 1£ the J,' *“h «h-> musk-
weather turns cold enough; but at
the Horse Show furs are worn whether
or not the thermometer warrants It
.■nd If the Indian summer is too long
and too late to make coats bearable,
made of fur and lined with heavy bro
caded satin.
Side.
Fur coats are really too heavy to
dainty frocks accompanied by hand-i walking and
•ome fur neckpieces and muffs are garments are usually reserved
donned. *" automobile wear or for use over
The wiseacres are prophesying a i indoor frocks in carriage or
cold winter and, contemplating the ' cold days the fur
preparations which the furriers have *^’'®®^ o''®**
made, one sincerely hopes that pro- of cashmere or mohair, but on
phesy may come true, for only snappy, clear days of which New
frcexlng weather will make many of ! ®®®* many—when the mer-
the huge neckplec-.-s and draped fur '^o'e^s between forty and fifty,
wraps endurable. What the furriers Prefers a smart coat and skirt
call collars are really sizable capes * handsome fur neckpiece
which cover the figure to the waist! ^*'® cumbersome fur
line and these tremendous neckpieces ,
wUh their big muffs to match require season are most
« goodly supply of fur—as the pur- ^*‘^*^^1 affairs, built on rather nar-
chaser soon dlsrovers. An example of ”"®®’ roomy enough at the
the exaggerated sl^e of some of the ' “Moulders to be very comfortable over
new furs la instanced In the photo-:The models for day wear
graph of a a«t of black and white fox
fur* designed for use with a hand
some reception costume. Black and
white fox pelts are used In this su
perb B€t and the skins are tossed over
the shoulders In a carelessly luxurious
effect that is picturesque in the ex
rat, which, by the bye, is a very at
tractive new fur much favored by Pa-
Wraps Fasten Gracefully Toward One I quin. This fur has a grayish cast
with soft brown stripes and Is like the
Australian opossum without its blue'
color.
Russian Duma has forbidden the trap
ping of sables for three years. Seal
skin is almost twice as costly as it was
two years ago and mink has advanced
almost as much proportionately. Even
the once despised skunk, known to the
polite world variously as leutre.
Seal and Mink Growlni; Scarce and j brown marten and Alask.^' sable, is
Expensive. seventy-flve per cent more costly than
Only the very rich woman now can
afford a coat of real sealskin or gen
uine mink and as for sable, its price
is almost prohibitive now that the
it was two years ago and the common
little coon may value his skin at seven
dollars instead of seventy cents. For-
tunately» however, for those of tls who
SealsRin is Aprsn^edL
Kow" in'Eich striped
may not afford to spend thousands o£
dollars upon our winter furs, there are
many less costly varieties, some of
them imitations of the aristocratic
seal, fox and sable, made by dying
plebeian beasts of the woods and
fields. For example, dyed raccoon
looks much like seal; thibet goat when
cleverly treated is hard to tell from
the extremely costly white Sitka fox,
red fox of the fields is dyed to re
semble his aristocratic cousins; coney
looks much like, ermine; Australian
opossum is almost as pretty c.s the
rare and costly chinchilla—and so on.
Mink is one of the furs that have
never been successfully imitated.
There are horrible fur neckpiece and
muff sets sold as “mink” which are
merely marmot skins streaked with
a paint brush and which deceive no
body. The “brool: mink” sold by
many good’ furriers is really muskrat
an;i there is a Japanese mink that is
so cleverly treated that it deceives
even the dealers. In genuine mink the
black streak goes clear through the
fur to the skin. This fur is very beau
tiful when new, but it soon fades and
loses its depth of tone, taking on
tawnj% yellow streaks that are ugly.
It is just now^ not as fashionable as
the 'darker brown sealskin and the
‘soft gray-brown moleskin which is
used for draped evening wraps.
Moleskin Extremely Fashionable This
Year.
The furs, par excellence for dressy
evening and afternoon limousine
wraps, are ermine and moleskin. * The
latter has come into favor within the
past two seasons and is now very
fashionable. The soft, lovely grayish
brown of moleskin matches no other
fa;bric exactly and yet this adorable
fur seems to harmonize with all fat^ric
colorings. From a hundred and fifty
to two ’ ..:dred skins are required to
make j ordinary wrap and for the
voluminous affairs draped in Oriental
fashion, many more are required.
£prtune and'Bed Fox .PoipeL's
J^voir^ite Cornbinallon
Moleskin is so soft and pliable that it
may be draped as readily as velvet
and it is usually made up in mantle
rather than coat style with gracefully
draped sleeves and other Oriental fea
tures. A handsome moleskin wrap
With‘trimmings of skunk is illustrated.
Another wrap, displayed in a Fifth
Avenue furrier’s window t^s week, is
in perfectly plain, mantle style and
to accompany it there" are a, long, soft
moleskin scarf lined with gray silk
and a huge flat muff that might be a
second searf doubled over and softly
lined. Both scarf and muff are
trimmed with loiig chenille fringe in
tho shade of the moleskin.
Ermine, of course, is the fur of furs
for an evening wrap—if one can af
ford the luxury. If riot, one may
have white coney trimmed with er
mine tails, to give the ermine effect.
White fox trimmings are not now as
fashionable with ermine as the bril
liant orange fox which was one of
the Paul Poiret enthusiasms last win
ter in Paris. This “orange” fox is
really our humble American fox of the
fields transformed by fashionable favor
into a distinguished pelt. Poiret se
lects the reddest and most brilliant
fox skins and uses them for trim
ming purposes on white fur wraps and
on his remarkable Oriental gowns. An
illustration shows one of his white
ermine evening wraps with trimmings
of orange fox.
Fur Neckpieces and Muffs Mammoth
In Size.
The bigger one’s mutt the better,
this season, but fortunately these huge
muffs are flat rather than round and
are so built that they are wonderfully
light and easy to carry. The barrel
shaped muff was not a success for
street use, and only a few of these
muffs, designed for carriage use, are
seeh.
I All the new neckpieces are lavishly
I trimmed with brushes and paws and
^ one wears, her neckpiece girlishly
I tossed over one shoulder. Prim, fas-
j ten-in-front neckpieces are relegated
j to matrons of mature years. For use
I with tailored street suits the favorite
I pelts are fox in white, blue and black,
! pointed fox, fisher, fitch, lynx and
i wolf. Black Persian lamb promises to
j be extremely fashionable later in the
season, but just now the brown and
gray furs ar6 in higher favor than
black.
A Costume Made of Fur.
A novelty in the fur line is a good
looking coat and skirt suit made of
black broadtail—cheaper models are
of fine black caracul—the skirt hav-
ing the prescribed narrow lines and
the cpat being a smart hip-length af*
fair jauntily cut and trimmed with
broad black silk braid. Sometimes
a little vest of Oriental embroidery Is
let into the front of the coat. To
match this fur suit there are acces
sories in the way pf toque, muff, and
reticule, all made of. the Persian lamb
or caracul, and trimmed with' braid or
Oriental eniproidery.
SOMETHING NEW FOR THE
DRESSING TABLE.
CHE dainty white pyroxylin toilet
belongings that have to a great
extent taken the place of '.he
heavy silver belongings recently s)
fashionable, come now with charming
hand tinted miniatures set in the
backs in narrow metal rims. The
miniatures are copied from old
French and English prints and from
the Romney, Mattler and Watteau
paintings. The colorings are delicate
and may be selected wuth a view to
matching the color scheme of the
bedroom which the dresser belong'
ings are to adorn.
ULZXW^m-
s
O long as there are cats, pump-
, kins and hobgoblins a-plenty,
it will not matter greatly what
the character of the Hallowe’en
have coat sleeves finished with wide
cuffs, and huge ihawl collars of the
fur or of some contrasting pelt. The
very smartest Parisian coats are se- ^ .
verely plain in effect, the richness of i ‘’®’ whether it is a
the fur being considered distinction ! cotillion or just an ordi-
enough without an added trimming of j ”®^^y Hallowe’en frolic the sepulchral
treme. The muff is made of black vel- contrasting pelt. Sometimes a striped I Uglits, mysterious, green-eyed felines
vet lined with white satin and over trimming is contrived by ar- j and other symbols of the witches'
It. diagonally, are flung two fox skins, 1 ^ur in opposite I night must not be omitted if the oc-
on« black and the other white with a °‘''®ctlons, as in one of today’s photo- f casion Is to be a success,
natur^lstlc trimming of paws and i ^ Hallowe’en cotillon, have been
brusb^i. Heads paws and brushes j ^ Z ® the fad for the last season or
also trim th^ neokplece and the white I and border | two and these dances can be made
animal seema grasping the body of
the black one in its tee4h, and the
black animal the white one In a real
istic and ferocious manner.
ronvetttloiml Effects Avoided.
Even the more mexpensive fur sets,
made up to sell in quantities from
dyed skins, have this barbaric, pic
turesque character and the conven
tional, narrow fur stole crossed in
front of the throat has a very prim,
old maidjsh look this season contrasted
with the big fur neckpieces that are
flung ova»- the shoulders and back.
Tails and paws-are ■ lavishly used to
Inoreasf this efTeot of luxury and even
the moat Inexpenstv* furs when made
up in the new styles cost a good bit
more than they did a few seasons ago.
The wraps alio are* quite different
from the strnlght, conventional affairs
of a few seasons ago. Once a seal
skin coat diffored very little from an
ordinary ulj|ter In styla. . It was slash
ed up the back, had regulation coat
sleeves and a narrow coat 'collar and
lapela and very often it was lined
staidly with quilted wadding In the
•omber shade of the brown fur. Now
adays the sealskin wrap is an entirely
different affair. Ita lines are ax-
trlmming of the seal striping just de
scribed. The fastening is at the left
aide, below the waist, two large but
tons covered with the sealskin being
fastened under an ornament of brown
silk cord. The richness of this beau
tiful 'coat is apparent at a glance
and no added garniture of skunk,
opossum or other pelt could add to
the distinction and beauty of the gar
ment as it is, in Its simple, perfect
good taste.
I^Vlnce a Feature ot New Fur
Wraps.
In striking contraat to this beauU-
ful Drecoll coat la another sealskin
model. This coat la far more coquet
tish and pretentious hi style than the
simple Drecoll wrap, but it lacks the
dignity and exquisite distinction of
the Paris-made garment. The lines
are in accordance wjth fashion’s man
date for fur wraps of this character,
but at the foot of the coat there Is an
eccentric, though modish trimming
note. Around the front of the gar>
ment is an "apron” of undyed musk
rat while at the back deep silk fringe
borders the coat, the fringe being set
on below a band of the sealskin upon
which are ‘ huge cord ' buttons and
loopa. Tha shawl collar and wide
very charming with the aid of crepe
paper decorations, pumpkin shaded
lights and favors 6f Hallowe’en type.
One of the prettiest flgures for- such
a cotillion is the mirror flgure which
introduces thel old Hallowe’en super
stition of* the lover’s face reflected in
a maid’s mirror on the stroke of mid- j
night. When this flgure is to be i
danced the lights in the ballroom are
lowered, red ^shaded lamps being set |
here and there to lessen the gloom. !
The girl called up by the cotillion |
leader is handed an ordinary hand |
mirror and a lighted candle in a !
candlestick. She takes her place in I
a chair in the Center of the room and
the young men summoned by the
leader come behind the chair in turns
and peer over the girl’s shoulder into
thW mirror while somecjlie strikes
twelve on a gong. The girl pretends
to wipe the reflections off the mirror
until she sees the particular face that
pleases her. Then she rises and dances
away with the chosen swain, the dis
appointed young men dancing in pairs
together.
Pumpkin pincushions, pretty can
dlesticks, cataeye Jewelry and fancy
baskets and bonbon boxes decorated
la Hallowe’aa atyle litake charming
Pumpkin Wand for the Hallowe’en
Cotillon.
favors for a cotillion of this sort, and
of course the suppcir table will be
highly significant of the event, cats,
pumpkins, hobgoblins and witches
playing an important part in thejdec-
orations. The menu may also in
clude appropriate dishes, like fruit
and nut salad, pumpkin tarts, cider,
and ice cream in Hallowe’en shapes
which any good caterer xan furnish.
Some patties of dellcio^isl^ creamed
Qieat ware labeled on the menu card
a Hallowe’en party last fall "Pat
ties a chat noir,” and the patty shells
were set on little mats of suggestive
black fur (cut from an old muff).
The guests made many facetious
comments on the chat noir course,
but the patties - were all consumed
with evident relish nevertheless.
Ghostly decorations add much to
the Hallowe’en character of the en
tertainment and if you happen to pos
sess one of*the tall piano lamps, or
an - ordinary, tall, slender,, lamp which
stands on a small table, you can con
coct a wonderful spectral ghost which
will be certain to make a tremendous
hit. The ghost’s head is made of
yellow crepfe’paper over a huge wire
frame which sets over the ordinary
round gtolbe of the lamp. On this
shade. aW. pasted enormous, slanting
white paper eyeWls with black pu
pils set at the outer corners, flery red
paper nostrils an^ a terrific red pa
per mouth with white teeth. If ,these
features are cleverly arranged the
ghost will have a probably fierce and
horrible expresion. Yards of white
crepe paper are wound in spiral ef
fect around the tall standard of tfce
lamp to forin "draped skirts; and a
straight tunic of the, white paper falls
from a pleated paper ruche' whlcli
represents a collar-Just below the
lighted head. Arms ai^ made o£ long
strips of pasteboard and over them
fall white tissue paper "angel” aleevea.
Of course the fingers are cut long and
clawlike and the more rudely fashion
ed the hands, the funnletr.
Sometimes the Hallowe’en hostess
persuades a young brother to dress up
In sheet draperies to play the ghost
of some well known person "come
back for tha^evening  to be one of
us.” ▲ length of white mualln, with
holes cut for the eyes and nose and
two rows of teeth suggested with
black paint, is thrown over the
“ghost’s” face, another length of white
muslin being draped over the head
and shoulders. A glove filled with
cracked Ice is presented cordially and
solemnly for each guest to shake, the
glove being held of course ^n the
"ghost’s” own hand under cover of
the sleeve.
^ The Hallowe’en cake Is a feature
that should not be omitted from the
night’s entertainment and this cake
may be brought on at the clos^ of
supper, each guest cutting a slice in
turn. In the cake are hidden vari
ous tiny trinkets which are supposed
to hint at the future fortune of. the
recipient. A ring signifies a happy
marriage; a thimbje spinsterhood; a
button bachelorhood or if found by
a maid, bachelor-girlhood; a pen. a
literary career, a • pencil an artistic
one, a coin, wealth, and so on. The
hostess may use her own ingenuity ip
selecting the cake favors, but' very
tiiiy ones must be chosen or the cake
itself will not be a sutcess.-
There are certain traditional Hal
lowe’en rites * which must not be
omitted from the rnost up to date Hal
lowe’en party. One of these is the
bobbing for apples game which is an
ancient English custom. Real bob
bing for apples—or "ducking” for ap
ples as it is called very properly should
be Indulged in only when the Hal
lowe’en party is an informal lark and
nobody has on anything that a good
drenching with water will injure. A
more moderate form of the bobbing
for apples game may be arranged by
the Hallowe’en hostess who is enter
taining a party of well dressed young
people. The apples, great, rosy af
fairs, float in bona fide water, but to
^ach apple stem is attached a little
red ribbon bow which may easily be
caught in the teeth; and when the
apple is lifted from the water, a slip
of paper is discovered, thrust into a
slash cut iif one side near the top.
On these -slips of paper are inscribed
various pertinent and pleasant quota'
tions applicable to the discoverers.
Cata and Bats are Iii^rtant HiOJowe’ea Features.