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Wednesday, September 29. 1982The Daily Tar Heel7
Overall look important
for latest fall fashions
By LISBETH LEVINE
omen's fashion used to be de
termined by whatever hemline or jacket
length designers deemed a "must" for the
season. Now, most fashion experts agree,
the emphasis has expanded tq an overall
look, especially with regard to proportion
and the silhouette.
"Forget your hemlines," said Sally
White, public relations and fashion office
manager for Neiman-Marcus in -Atlanta.
"What you need is a new eye for propor
tion." She suggested pairing a.blouson top
with a long, straight skirt or a short, fit
ted jacket with a long, full skirt. "You
need to balance out the look. Every piece
has its corresponding counterbalance,''
"Overall, fashion has been simplified,
cleaned up," White said. This idea
matches the slim silhouette that will be
prevalent this fall.
Mickie Holden, vice president for
fashion merchandising of Ivey's Carolina,
attributed this pared-down appearance to
the minimalist look that is currently being
popularized by several designers. "It's
characterized by very simple, clean
lines," she said.
Besides the attention to proportion,
Holden said that fall fashion has a com
plete sense of finish. "Carry your outfit
one step further," she advised. "It's add
ing a scarf, pin, belt, legwear and the pro
per shoe or boot and making them all
Accessories loom large over the fashion
picture, probably as a result of the tight
economy Women are relying more on ac
cessories -to update -the: clothes ''they'
already have, conclued several fashion
' "There is a huge leg emphasis this
season," said Bernadine TTorfis,
women's fashion reporter for The New
York Times. "Pantyhose that are col
ored, textured, lacy or pinstriped; heavy
tights, knee socks and leg warmers will all
be fashion essentials this season."
A lace scarf tied around the neckline of
a sweater immediately transforms last
year's sweater into a current Ralph
The recommended footwear is low
heeled, closed-toe pumps, patent leather
pumps, ballerina flats and low to mid
heeled boots that are loose around the
ankles and have optional roll-down cuffs.
As for overall trends, most people have
noticed the resurgence of black as the
dominant color in fall fashion. One of the
spinoff combinations, black and white,
quickly asserted itself in the fashion
world. As a result, the tuxedo look has
been enjoying a sustained popularity.
Wayne Heam end Carta Dctchon relax in countrified fall fashion
... her blouse softens argyle vest; his shirt fastens off-center
Anne Simpson, co-owner of The Town "
and Campus on Franklin Street, sug
gested several tuxedo pieces that would
also make good investments, including a
well-made tuxedo front shirt, cummer
bund belts in either silk or cotton, bow
ties and , cummerbund-waisted evening ;
skirts -' '-, v . .' ''
n spite of the stress on the overall ap
pearance, some new detailings and com
mon features can be found among the
new fall fashions.
Blouses generally have high necks,
asymmetrical closures, padded shoulders,
puffed sleeves, or any of the above com
binations. The stores are stocked with
shadow plaid blouses with femmine ruf
fles around the neck and cuffs. '
Morris said to look for sweaters that
have ruffles over the shoulders, or
striped, argyle or scenic patterns. Lisa
Nichols, manager and buyer at, The
Towne Shop on Henderson Street, said,
"Cardigans are huge, and almost all of
this year's sweaters have padded
Vests, according to Morris and
Nichols, are a major fashion statement
this fall. Patterned sweater knits as well
as pinstriped menswear vests look pro
mising. ' ;
Drop-yoked skirts were popular with
Simpson. Morris advises against the pen-.
til slim skirts that were seen in most of the
designer collections. "Skip the narrow
skirts, they're bad fashion and not a good
investment. Stick to soft, easy dirndl
skirts," she said.
Challis print skirts were praised by
White for. their versatility. "Challis goes
very well with a matching blouse to give it
the look of a dress. It also looks great.
vXhe, prairie skirts thatwere:so popular:
over the summer have been redone in cor
duroy and quilts for winter.
The newest pants for fall are menswear
trousers, often done in gangster stripes.
White described them as, "man-tailored,
slightly pleated and straight legged, either
cuffed or uncuffed." .This style can be
nicely complemented by suspenders.
If there were two items that everyone
agreed on as necessary for fall, they were
a little black dress, and dolman sleeves on
everything from sweaters to coats. The
recommended dress is simply cut, close
fitting and has some form of sleeve in-
The sweatshirting designs by Norma
Kamali and others also received praise for
their comfort and low prices.
Along with the new freedom of choice
in women's fashion comes the option to
mix fabrics, textures and patterns, in-
eluding plaids and stripes.
But try not to lose personal identity in
the maze of designer fashion. As White
advised,1 "Make sure you're wearing the
clothes and they're not wearing you."
1 L''vVcV -
Men's styles extend past basics
By LISBETH LEVINE
hCitoQrn'iSiashion this fall is bright
in more ways than one; n. w -rv.- ;
First of all, men seem to have taken a serious in
terest m. what they are wearing. The "I got dressed
with a blindfold on this morning" look is definitely
;"out."-iV'A': . .
; "Men are more interested in clothes. They're realiz
ing that clothing can be a lot of fun and a reflection of
their personal image and style," said Mickie Holden,
vice president for fashion merchandising of Ivey's
Anne Simpson, co-owner of The Town and Cam
pus on Franklin Street, agreed "I've never seen guys
on this campus so interested in buying clothes before.
Guys will actually shop, where in the past there had to
be a reason to buy something. They're also not afraid
to wear colors anymore," she said.
Color has become a major fashion statement in
menswear. ... '.
"I think that people have become more attuned to
color these last few seasons. Men are using color more
freely," said Wally Palmer, vice president of Alex-
r ander Julian, Inc. "We've been selling very wearable
shapes in more exciting colors."
So how do all these fashion dictates translate into
everyday college life? The general trend is away from
conformity, said Bob Simpson, co-owner of The
Town and Campus. "Men want to dress a little dif
David Leventhal eyes Cindy Epperson's new fail look
... mock vest cummerbund, bow tie, make tux "work"
ferently, but not outlandishly," he said.
And what one garment does more than 50 percent
of the male student population don each morning?
Jeans. And according to some fashion specialists,
they're no longer "in."
This does not mean that blue denims will suddenly
become extinct on college campuses. But, said Sally
White, the public relations and fashion office manager
for Neiman Marcus in Atlanta, "Jeans are not a real
statement on fashion anymore."
Anne Simpson's conclusion was perhaps more
palatable for men than White's. "Jeans are now part
of your wardrobe," she saids "They're no longer your
entire wardrobe." ;
What are the alternatives besides Levi's cords and
khakis? Drawstring pants - the same ones that were
seen all summer have been translated into heavy
cotton and corduroy for fall. Wide-wale corduroy
pants, preferably with tapered legs and a few pleats in
the front, should also be given serious consideration.:
These variations as well as similar styles in wool and
heavy washed cotton are already selling well at The
Town and Campus, the Simpsons reported.
Again, don't forget colors. Trousers will be seen in
olives, dark browns, grays and plums. Most of the
shades are muted or in the earth tone family to ensure
some continuity for next year's styles.
Shirts are showing up with band, small rounded and
wing collars. Sweatshirting, a popular women's trend,
is also turning up in men's clothing. Rugby style shirts
with muted stripes are one of the more prevalent
Sweater styles range from V-necks to heather-toned
Tom Walker catches up on current events
... banded stripe sweater is fall news
to colors, patterns
stripes to diamond-patterned cashmeres. In other
words, anything goes in men's sweaters this fall. The
more novel the texture, the more classic the pattern,
the more integrated the colors, the better.
As far as jackets go, the double-breasted may soon
become mandatory in a man's wardrobe.
Frequently featured overall looks -this falkarcthe
English-country-gentleman look, characterized by a
tweed jacket over a sweater, and the "Chariots of
Fire" image, easily obtained with an argyle sweater
and pleated trousers.
Some of the most popular argyle sweaters and plaid
shirts can be found in the Colours collection by Alex
ander Julian. Colours is centered around coordinating
shades in shirts, sweaters, polo shirts and ties, with
casual pants being introduced this spring that can be
added to each season. Best of all, they are retailing in a
popular price range. "The retail response has been just
fantastic," Palmer said in a recent telephone inter
In outerwear the big news is leather bomber style
jackets. Also watch for hunting jackets in cotton or
poplin with drawstring waists.
Don't be fooled by thinking that all this talk of
men's fashion is just a media blitz to fatten the pockets
of designers and clothing stores. One night in a
popular bar in Chapel Hill about a week ago, one
"real man" type was overheard asking another where
he bought such a great looking shirt.
Clothing courtesy of The Town and' Campus, The
Towne Shop and Julian's College Shop.