.1 Wednesday, September 29. 1982The Daily Tar Heel7 FASHION- Overall look important for latest fall fashions I say area By LISBETH LEVINE Staff Writer omen's fashion used to be de termined by whatever hemline or jacket length designers deemed a "must" for the season. Now, most fashion experts agree, the emphasis has expanded tq an overall look, especially with regard to proportion and the silhouette. "Forget your hemlines," said Sally White, public relations and fashion office manager for Neiman-Marcus in -Atlanta. "What you need is a new eye for propor tion." She suggested pairing a.blouson top with a long, straight skirt or a short, fit ted jacket with a long, full skirt. "You need to balance out the look. Every piece has its corresponding counterbalance,'' she said. "Overall, fashion has been simplified, cleaned up," White said. This idea matches the slim silhouette that will be prevalent this fall. Mickie Holden, vice president for fashion merchandising of Ivey's Carolina, attributed this pared-down appearance to the minimalist look that is currently being popularized by several designers. "It's characterized by very simple, clean lines," she said. Besides the attention to proportion, Holden said that fall fashion has a com plete sense of finish. "Carry your outfit one step further," she advised. "It's add ing a scarf, pin, belt, legwear and the pro per shoe or boot and making them all work together." Accessories loom large over the fashion picture, probably as a result of the tight economy Women are relying more on ac cessories -to update -the: clothes ''they' already have, conclued several fashion consultants. ' "There is a huge leg emphasis this season," said Bernadine TTorfis, women's fashion reporter for The New York Times. "Pantyhose that are col ored, textured, lacy or pinstriped; heavy tights, knee socks and leg warmers will all be fashion essentials this season." A lace scarf tied around the neckline of a sweater immediately transforms last year's sweater into a current Ralph Lauren look. The recommended footwear is low heeled, closed-toe pumps, patent leather pumps, ballerina flats and low to mid heeled boots that are loose around the ankles and have optional roll-down cuffs. As for overall trends, most people have noticed the resurgence of black as the dominant color in fall fashion. One of the spinoff combinations, black and white, quickly asserted itself in the fashion world. As a result, the tuxedo look has been enjoying a sustained popularity. - Wayne Heam end Carta Dctchon relax in countrified fall fashion ... her blouse softens argyle vest; his shirt fastens off-center clothes experts Anne Simpson, co-owner of The Town " and Campus on Franklin Street, sug gested several tuxedo pieces that would also make good investments, including a well-made tuxedo front shirt, cummer bund belts in either silk or cotton, bow ties and , cummerbund-waisted evening ; skirts -' '-, v . .' '' n spite of the stress on the overall ap pearance, some new detailings and com mon features can be found among the new fall fashions. Blouses generally have high necks, asymmetrical closures, padded shoulders, puffed sleeves, or any of the above com binations. The stores are stocked with shadow plaid blouses with femmine ruf fles around the neck and cuffs. ' Morris said to look for sweaters that have ruffles over the shoulders, or striped, argyle or scenic patterns. Lisa Nichols, manager and buyer at, The Towne Shop on Henderson Street, said, "Cardigans are huge, and almost all of this year's sweaters have padded shoulders." Vests, according to Morris and Nichols, are a major fashion statement this fall. Patterned sweater knits as well as pinstriped menswear vests look pro mising. ' ; Drop-yoked skirts were popular with Simpson. Morris advises against the pen-. til slim skirts that were seen in most of the designer collections. "Skip the narrow skirts, they're bad fashion and not a good investment. Stick to soft, easy dirndl skirts," she said. Challis print skirts were praised by White for. their versatility. "Challis goes very well with a matching blouse to give it the look of a dress. It also looks great. with,,aJacMyesojw,eaM. aji(Lwi& suedg;anrdieather.,o5beanote$. vXhe, prairie skirts thatwere:so popular: over the summer have been redone in cor duroy and quilts for winter. The newest pants for fall are menswear trousers, often done in gangster stripes. White described them as, "man-tailored, slightly pleated and straight legged, either cuffed or uncuffed." .This style can be nicely complemented by suspenders. If there were two items that everyone agreed on as necessary for fall, they were a little black dress, and dolman sleeves on everything from sweaters to coats. The recommended dress is simply cut, close fitting and has some form of sleeve in- terest. . The sweatshirting designs by Norma Kamali and others also received praise for their comfort and low prices. Along with the new freedom of choice in women's fashion comes the option to mix fabrics, textures and patterns, in- eluding plaids and stripes. But try not to lose personal identity in the maze of designer fashion. As White advised,1 "Make sure you're wearing the clothes and they're not wearing you." 1 ! rrnt ii v j A 1 L''vVcV - f iffh Men's styles extend past basics By LISBETH LEVINE Staff Writer hCitoQrn'iSiashion this fall is bright in more ways than one; n. w -rv.- ; First of all, men seem to have taken a serious in terest m. what they are wearing. The "I got dressed with a blindfold on this morning" look is definitely ;"out."-iV'A': . . ; "Men are more interested in clothes. They're realiz ing that clothing can be a lot of fun and a reflection of their personal image and style," said Mickie Holden, vice president for fashion merchandising of Ivey's "Carolina.," :- Anne Simpson, co-owner of The Town and Cam pus on Franklin Street, agreed "I've never seen guys on this campus so interested in buying clothes before. Guys will actually shop, where in the past there had to be a reason to buy something. They're also not afraid to wear colors anymore," she said. Color has become a major fashion statement in menswear. ... '. "I think that people have become more attuned to color these last few seasons. Men are using color more freely," said Wally Palmer, vice president of Alex- r ander Julian, Inc. "We've been selling very wearable shapes in more exciting colors." So how do all these fashion dictates translate into everyday college life? The general trend is away from conformity, said Bob Simpson, co-owner of The Town and Campus. "Men want to dress a little dif t David Leventhal eyes Cindy Epperson's new fail look ... mock vest cummerbund, bow tie, make tux "work" ferently, but not outlandishly," he said. And what one garment does more than 50 percent of the male student population don each morning? Jeans. And according to some fashion specialists, they're no longer "in." This does not mean that blue denims will suddenly become extinct on college campuses. But, said Sally White, the public relations and fashion office manager for Neiman Marcus in Atlanta, "Jeans are not a real statement on fashion anymore." Anne Simpson's conclusion was perhaps more palatable for men than White's. "Jeans are now part of your wardrobe," she saids "They're no longer your entire wardrobe." ; What are the alternatives besides Levi's cords and khakis? Drawstring pants - the same ones that were seen all summer have been translated into heavy cotton and corduroy for fall. Wide-wale corduroy pants, preferably with tapered legs and a few pleats in the front, should also be given serious consideration.: These variations as well as similar styles in wool and heavy washed cotton are already selling well at The Town and Campus, the Simpsons reported. Again, don't forget colors. Trousers will be seen in olives, dark browns, grays and plums. Most of the shades are muted or in the earth tone family to ensure some continuity for next year's styles. Shirts are showing up with band, small rounded and wing collars. Sweatshirting, a popular women's trend, is also turning up in men's clothing. Rugby style shirts with muted stripes are one of the more prevalent sweatshirting designs. Sweater styles range from V-necks to heather-toned Tom Walker catches up on current events ... banded stripe sweater is fall news to colors, patterns stripes to diamond-patterned cashmeres. In other words, anything goes in men's sweaters this fall. The more novel the texture, the more classic the pattern, the more integrated the colors, the better. As far as jackets go, the double-breasted may soon become mandatory in a man's wardrobe. Frequently featured overall looks -this falkarcthe English-country-gentleman look, characterized by a tweed jacket over a sweater, and the "Chariots of Fire" image, easily obtained with an argyle sweater and pleated trousers. Some of the most popular argyle sweaters and plaid shirts can be found in the Colours collection by Alex ander Julian. Colours is centered around coordinating shades in shirts, sweaters, polo shirts and ties, with casual pants being introduced this spring that can be added to each season. Best of all, they are retailing in a popular price range. "The retail response has been just fantastic," Palmer said in a recent telephone inter view. . In outerwear the big news is leather bomber style jackets. Also watch for hunting jackets in cotton or poplin with drawstring waists. Don't be fooled by thinking that all this talk of men's fashion is just a media blitz to fatten the pockets of designers and clothing stores. One night in a popular bar in Chapel Hill about a week ago, one "real man" type was overheard asking another where he bought such a great looking shirt. Clothing courtesy of The Town and' Campus, The Towne Shop and Julian's College Shop. Photos by Kim Snook i i is 'i

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