-V
V,
By Amy E. Hogeboom.
EVENING gowns have, so we- are
told, been suppressed to. a certain
extent and dinner gowrissre-to take
their place. At the same -tame there
are many of the less elaborate models
being worn, and as long as we have
dresses of this type they may as well be
as good looking as possible.
Reports regarding the wearing ?of even
ing gowns in Paris are strangely at vari
ance, and it is possible that there is a bit
of truth on" both sides of . the question.
True, these evening clothes have been
modified and greatly changed in expres
sion, for no woman wishs to appear abso
lutely indifferent to the situation. How
ever, evening amusements continue, and
dressing for these affairs has always been
a more important matter to both the Eng
lish and French woman than to the Amer
ican. Bearing this in mind, the Parfcdai
dressmaking houses placed the usual
amount of evening clothes on exhibition.
Callot, who always takes evening
clothes in a aerious mood, has featured
he very graceful and distinguished look
ins mode1 for which she is well known.
Lanvin and Jenny are inclined rather to
the opposite, although in all instances the
decree calling for narrow lines near the
feet has been followed.
For dinner and informal wear Callot
shows an amazingly simple gown of
black trl-olette in the form of a chemise
over a foundation skirt- of black satin.
Starting at the top of the gown, a strip of
gold embroidery ran straight across the
- neck line and down the top of the short
. sleeves ; from this the tunic hung straight,
narrowing as it reached the base or hem
About three or four inches of the founda
tion showed. On the tunic a large
Egyptian design was . embroidered in
- rather long, slender lines, which ran up
tad on to the sleeves ; the colors for this
were principally green and terra cotta.
' The sleeves on this gown were very short,
halfway between the shoulder and 4lbow,
and this distinctly new note is also seen
on several of the other new models. This
shoi': sleeve is not confined to evening
gowns, for it is also seen on the simpler
.afternoon models.
Callot cares not a bit whether h?r
frocks are practical or whether they fol
low the general fashions in the least. In
deed, it is rather apparent that she pre
" fers them to be different, not slightly but
entirely, from the models which are put
out by the other houses. She clings to
the simplest", of Imcs in her frocks and
puts a perfectly straight tunic of organdie
filet ovet a foundation of black satin,
" and .without an apology places the girdle
1 of blue satin" underneath instead of over
. these flowing, folds.
- It " must -fcc" admitted that the chief
interest in frocks for these formal occa-
; sions lies in the matejjl rather; ha in
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the most impractical models. Gold and
silver tissue is used lavishly, and -where
a bit of it or a strip was formerly used the
usual thing now is to make the whole frock
of it These frocks are extremely gor
geous, as one can well imagine, and give
one anything but the impression of war
economy or conservation, but as a matter
of fact there is no real reason one should
not wear a frock of this material, as it
uses practically nothing that could be
made use of and is far more in the spirit
of things than the innocent looking blue
ecrge frock.
After studying the various types nf
evening frocks being shown, both at the
openings and in the shops,1 one comes, to
the conclusion that the field open for
selection is very laree and nmt de
pends on whether one feels dignified 01
wishes to appear young and light-hearted.
For the former the straight pulled-around
sheathlikc evening gown draped witn a
bit of tulle or embellished with a large
motif of beads or crystal or the black
satin frock draped with black tulle will
appeal, and for the latter the more bouf
fant models with the. saucy, bit of drapery
T the Upper Left An evening gown commending itself at the first glance
is this youthful model of pussy willow taffeta, with its gracefully scant
drapery of gold net. The bodice is of the simple type we have come to
prefer in most simple evening frocks, so the distinctive features must.be looked
for on the skirt. The satin is slightly draped at the hips and the gold net forms
a pointed apron back and front. These aprons are edged ivith ostrich feathers
in pale blue. Altogether, a charmingly attractive model.
At the centre is an evening gown of pink brocaded satin, featuring the
long waist line so much talked about lately. The waist is quite simple, crossing
in points at the back, with sleeves opening in a point and. f biding over', of em
broidered chiffon. Embroidered chiffon also forms a pointed peptum.at the
sides of the skirt, which is draped slightly toward the back and caught up in
a modified bustle. This bustle effect might be called rather better an elon
gated full peplum. In spite of its apparently elaborate description this is an
exceedingly simple model. -
At the Right in the Circle An afternoon or informal dinner gown of black
satin and Georgette, following the lines of a modified chemise. It is heavily
embroidered in cut steel beads and a narrow girdle of the beads .holds the
frock Jin place, weighing the Georgette gracefully. The sleeves of the Geor
gette are long, widening at the elbows. The top part of the long waisted bodice
is very simple and is cut with a slight decolletage. The skirt is of the satin,
held in at the back in a.manner to narrow the line.
At the Right of the CentreA charmingly simple frock of 'orchid blue
chiffon, with trimming of crystal and colored beads. This is also a long waisted
model, slightly longer than is usual. Across the upper part of the frock the
beads are placed in a solid stripe, and the colored bead motif at the right side
is repeated on the skirt. A line of beads finishes the bottom of the skirt,
which hangs very straight. The sleeves of the chiffon are caught up, leaving
an open side.
Below and at the Right The seated figure illustrates one of the well
liked black satin and net dinner gowns. The straight jet weighted tunic of net
is.open in the front,. and the same idea is carried out on-the bodice, which is
slightly fitted at the normal waist line with a black satin girdle.- Across the
top of the bodice is a square arrangement of the net, beaded in the jet, and this
also forms the sleeves. The tunic is full length oyer a close fitting, under slip
of blacky sattn,, . . -f .
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