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TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR CLOTHES DRYER
Fuses and breakers: A dryer's heat
er runs on 220 volts and its motor on
110 ... so an electric unit requires two
good fuses or breakers to function
properly. Check them both. (And when
handling potentially dangerous electri
cal components on this checklist, be
sure to cut power to the appliance
when it's not needed to conduct a test!)
Thermostats: These temperature
regulators are usually located near the
dryer's fan housing or exhaust pas
sageway. Look for round disks (prob
ably two), each of which is attached to
two wires. Tap the thermostats' hous
ings lightly with a screwdriver ... if
a contact is simply stuck, that may jar
it loose. If that doesn't work, test the
tnermostats witn your continuity tester or multimeter, r irst, turn tne appliance s timer
on? to activate the thermostats? and then unplug the dryer and test the circuit on each
thermostat. If no current registers, replace the failed part.
Heating element : To find this, look for coiled wire that runs through porcelain insula
tors. (Some models' heaters are completely enclosed in a metal housing, though; con
sult your owner's manual, if necessary.) Remove the lead wires and test the element
with your light or meter. Again, if no continuity is indicated, you'll have to replace the
element.
Pilot light: If this continually goes out? although you've lit it again and again, fol
lowing the manufacturer's instructions? a new pilot latch-and-unlatch assembly is prob
ably needed. This component is expensive ($25 to $45) and can be tricky to work with.
You'd better call a service technician for this one.
Vent: Check the dryer's vent outlet? the place where the machine's exhaust hose feeds
through a wall opening? to see if hot air is blowing forcefully through the exit. If not,
the vent may be clogged with dust or lint; remove the obstruction. If the vent is clear,
check the flexible exhaust tube for kinks, and straighten the hose, if necessary.
Lint screen: This small filter is usually located behind a trapdoor somewhere inside
the dryer and must be cleaned before each load to allow maximum hot air circulation.
Door switch: This small knob, located inside the door, shuts the machine off when
the door is opened, as a safety measure. To test it, depress the switch. If it clicks, the
part is functioning properly. If it makes no sound, you'll have to install a new one. First,
though, you need to remove the dryer's top to get At the defective switch. On many
dryers, you can wedge a putty knife blade between the top of the front panel and the
underside of the top panel and simply push a spring clip (there may be one at each cor
ner) while lifting upward to raise the lid. On other models, you may have to remove
retaining screws, too. Once you have the top up, just disconnect the door switch and
replace it.
Drum obstruction: To see if accumulated lint or some object is preventing the drum