Pour Pecisions
By Brett Chappell
Against all odds, Nebbiolo makes great wine
Everything conspires against the Nebbiolo grape’s becoming such beautiful
wines. Yet the winemakers of Italy’s Piedmont persisted and have created “the
wine of kings and the king of wines.” This ancient grape is prone to mutation
and has at least 40 clones currently. The Piedmontese interplant three mainstay
clones to ensure the best harvests. Still, these clones are fussy. The Lampia, the
hardiest, is highly susceptible to viral infection. The Michet is a mutation of the
Lampia, with an inherent viral infection which causes its canes to fork. This
lower-yielding, higher-quality clone is picky about the soil where it lives. Finally,
the Rose Nebbiolo is falling out of favor due to its light pigmentation.
Nebbiolo, grown almost nowhere outside of Northwest Italy, is the first grape
to bud there and the last to ripen. Until the mid-1800s, many of the Nebbiolo
wines were not vinified to dryness due to their high sugar content. This long
growing period was a double-edged sword. These high acid, high sugar grapes
are harvested in mid-October when the cellar temperatures are dropping. Even
into the 1960s the grapes macerated for extended periods (tannin extraction).
Then they began to ferment at high temperature (more tannin extraction).
Lastly, due to high sugar content, long fermentations were needed to make dry
wines (even more tannin extraction). Traditionally, this winemaking happened
in large botti (barrels). These large vessels do not allow for softening oxidation
to occur. Modern winemaking controls the temperatures of extraction and
fermentation and initiation of malolactic fermentation. These advances and
small oak ageing make Nebbiolos more approachable at a younger age.
Nebbiolo is finicky about its neighborhood and soils. The grape prefers
calcareous marl, a mix of limestone and clay. This soil grows a structured wine.
Grapes grown in sandy soil tend to be lighter, softer and a bit more aromatic.
Winemakers also give Nebbiolo favorable vineyard exposition. The grape thrives
on sunny crests, bricco, and southern and eastern facing slopes, sori.
Location, as in all life and business, is everything. The two geographically
largest DOCs (destination of controlled origin) for Nebbiolo are the Langhe and
Alba. Within these areas are Barbaresco and Barolo, the two most acclaimed
DOCGs (destination of controlled and guaranteed origins) for Nebbiolo growth.
These areas are subdivided into crus, or delimited vineyards. Some of the best
known vineyards are Cannubi, La Serra, and Brunate. Most vineyards are owned
fractionally by great winemakers—Italy, Burgundy-style.
Modern techniques have helped tame and make much more approachable the
savage Nebbiolo and, in particular, Barolo. However, once in your life you should
find something old, spend outside your budget, and drink it to see what 30-plus
years can do to an acidic, tannic, high alcohol wine. Expect smoke, cherries,
roses, tobacco and tar; things mellow with age. Here are some great vintages of
Barolo or Barbaresco to seek out: ’07, ’01, ’96, ’90 (ready now), ’89, ’82(ready
now), and ’78. Expect to pay at least $350 for the pleasure.
Not all are so expensive. Current bottlings are much more approachable in
youth. Barolo producers span the range of styles. Some take a cue from new
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world wine styles and make more fruit-driven, hedonistic wines. Others follow
the ways of older generations and craft austere, age-worthy wines. Look to
someone who has tasted the offerings for advice.
Nino Costa’s DOC Langhe Nebbiolo 2018 serves as a great entry-priced wine
that hints at the savory power of this variety. These 30-year-old vines grown
in sandy vineyards accentuate the wine’s fruit. Six months in small barrels and
two months in bottle before release soften the wine. Expect tart cherry, licorice,
a light floral nose, and a hint of pepper. For $22, it pairs well with a roasted
chicken or just pizza.
Barbaresco is considered queen to King Barlolo. Cantine Elvio Tintero’s
Barbaresco 2015 illustrates this. At $33, the wine is perfumed, well-structured,
and approachable now, thanks to small barrel ageing. It is made in only
exceptional vintages, and 2015 is one of the best of late. The wine is intensely
focused and would taste great with osso bucco Milanese or a mushroom risotto.
G.D. Vajra’s Barolo Albe is made with a hat tip to new world fruit-driven
wines. The grapes are harvested from high elevation slopes that receive copious
sunlight, hence the riper style for a Barolo. The 2016 Albe has textbook aromas;
rose petals, tar, raspberry and cherry stones. The palate is richly textured and
powerful with velvety tannins. The $41 price is an entry point for Barolo. This is
a wine for a hearty Bolognese sauce, grilled steak or venison roast.
For drinkers who like muscular red wine, Nebbiolo should become a go to.
Its acids and tannins handle winter’s hearty stews and wild game like a Cabernet
Sauvignon would. Yet, it also offers floral perfumes and earthy aromas and
flavors often found in lighter wines like Pinot Noir. Nebbiolo overcomes many
hurdles to become tasty wine. Its strength is forged in its hardship.
Brett Chappell is a Certified Sommelier and Wine Educator. He and his wife
Jen, who is a Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level Two, escaped from Northern
Virginia by opening ME Chappell Wine Merchant in Atlantic Beach. Their store is
located at 407 Atlantic Beach Causeway, Atlantic Beach, and the phone number is
252-773-4016.
The Shoreline i January 2021