Professional Tips for Achieving a 'Custom Look 1
Home-made or custom
made: the difference in the
way a fashion looks is often
only a matter of details. As
suming that you have learned
all you can about fitting, that
you follow patten instructions
to the letter, that you
stitch and presVcarefully,
these tips from sewing experts
at The Singer Company will
help you achieve a "custom
look" in dressmaking.
For Shape and Drape
• Baste by Hand. That's what
the couturiers in Paris do. Bast
ing holds the layers of a seam
so that when it is machine
stitched, one layer isn't eased
or stretched more than the
other. To baste, work on a flat
surface. Pin the seam edges to
gether at the ends, notches,
center and at several addi
tional points. Hand-baste with a
long fine needle and single
strand of mercerized or silk
thread. Take one stitch at a
time, lifting the work from the
table as little as possible. Ma
chine-stitch alongside the bast
ing, not through it.
11 _Q 1
• Intertace lor Firmness. La
pels, collars, necklines, sleeve
ends, cuffs and other areas re
quiring firmness ( or a rolled
contour ) should be interfaced
Lightweight interfacing may
be stitched to the garment
when the facing is attached
Hair canvas and heavy inter
facings should be applied so
that the machine stitching join
ing the facing and garment
does not go through the inter
facing.
• Underline to Enrich the
"Hand". An underlining is
sewn as one with the dress
fabric. It improves the"hand"—
or hang and drape —of a gar
ment, and it helps to keep the
outer fabric from wrinkling or
stretching. When irou choose
an underlining, duipe the fab
ric over it to make sure it isn't
so heavy or stiff that it will
SMALLEST WEAPO L^JJS^ R ' D POVERTY ~ SEWING NEEDLES!
"
For these lads from Manila's slums. op-r- Congolese girls (right) ure also learning
ating a sewing machine is not only an evcit- how to make their own elothes. These are
ing new experience, it can also help them just two of the many countries of the world
heroine self-sufficient by learning the tailor- where sewing classes are conducted hy Cath
ing trade. Half way around the world, the olie Relief Services.
In sowing classes con
ducted around the world hy
Catholic l Relief Services, the
overseas aid agency of Amrr- jHEJH
ican Catholics, people learn Ik *
how clothes are made hy tak
ing used garments apart and \{ J*
then remaking them. j*,
Materials for these sewing * If *
classes are the serviceable Hp> t
used garments contributed by mF 4 'M.
Americans during the annual C V, .
Catholic Bishops' Thanks
giving Clothing Campaign,
which will he distributed to I
needy men. women and chil
regard
BOURBON in $4 50
DELUXE |H fcPiHT
, MiIaMHMI 1 Hl»wWl| J
I Bourbon
§1 Jhr j
J&,\
Kentucky ; |
Bourbon UJWskey 1 |
A Blend j
THE BOURBON 0E LUXE DISTILLERY COMPANY, LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY. 86 PROOF CONTAINS 49% GRAIN NEUTPAL SPIRITS
over Dower the fabric. For ex
ample, a soft, open-weave,
sheer wool is best underlined
with chiffon; a lightweight wool
crepe or tweed may be under
lined with one of the fabrics
like Si Bonne or Undercurrent,
specifically made for interlin
ings and available in a wide
range of fashion colors.
• Line for Luxury. A lining dif
fers from an underlining by
being made separately from
the garment and then being
attached at strategic places,
such as the neckline and arm
holes of a dress or blouse or
at the waistline of a skirt.
Many couturiers underline a
fashion for body and then line
it for a luxurious finished look
inside the garment and for
extra comfort. Lining fabrics
may range from softest China
silk to crispy taffeta.
For Fashion's Sake
For fabrics like jersey, fine
silk, velvet or sheer wools
where you do not want stitch
ing to show on the outside,
blind hems provide the look
you want. This is most easily
done by using the automatic
zig-zagger on your machine.
Mark, turn and press hem in
the usual way. Baste a guide
line ' inch from the top of the
hem edge. Place hem edge
over the feed of the machine,
turning bulk of the fabric to
the left thus creating a soft
fold Adjust seam guide to rest
next to the soft fold. Stitch so
that the straight stitches fall on
hem edge and the sideward
stitches pierce the soft fold.
Feed the fold against the edge
of the guide. The end result
will be an invisible-from-the
outside hem.
A blind hem can be done by
hand, too. Pink the edge. Hand
baste the hem in place about
' inch from pinked edge.
Catch-stitch hem in place by
hand, taking stitches between
pinked edge and the skirt.
Turn back pinked edge along
guide line with left hand as
you hem.
• Buy the Best Buttons. Good
quality buttons do much to
give a custom look to an other-
wise undistinguished dress
When you buy them, check
the pattern envelope sketch for
suggestions. The ones used in
the illustration are the de
signer's choice in size and
style, and a similar button will
fit the buttonhole markings on
the pattern. Also important is
the way buttons are sewn to
the garment. A properly sewn
button, like a well-stitched
hem, will go unnoticed. An
improperly sewn or placed
button may cause the fabric
to pull or pucker, and can even
spoil the lines of a dress or
coat.
• Cover Snaps. Snaps that
show, such as those at the
neckline or hem of a jacket
or coat, can be covered in self
fabric or in a lightweight fab
ric (or silk seam binding) in
a matching color. Cut a circle
of fabric slightly larger thar.
the snap to be covered; hand
stitch around the outer edge.
Gather the circle of fabric over
and around the snap. Stitch
snap in place. As the snap is
fastened, it will make the nec
essary holes.
• Look at Expensive Fashions.
The better dress department of
a store, an elegant boutique,
fashion magazines —all offer a
wealth of ideas for giving fash
ions a custom look. Perhaps a
tweed suit can be taken out
of the ordinary with button
holes and cuffs bound in suede,
or a supple jersey dress can
be brought-up-to-the-minute
with a wide leather belt and
giant buttons to match. It's the
little details that make a big
difference in fashion.'
I ~ \ iv T»..
A CLOSET FULL OF CHARITY
If you are someone with a
closetful of "nothing to wear,"
it is probably time to re-eval
uate your wardrobe and dis
card garments that no longer
fit or are out-of-style. You
might not dream of wearing
last year's styles, but being
fashionable is not important
to needy i>ersons in unrf£We
veloped nations. Your used or
unwanted clothing can shield
them against winter cold or
blazing tropical sun.
You can help the world's
needy and ill-clothed by tak
ing your used or unwanted
but serviceable clothes to the
nearest Catholic church dur
ing the 1967 Catholic Bish
ops' Thanksgiving Clothing
Campaign. You'll be turning
your closetful of "useless"
clothes into a gift of hope.
NORTH CAROLINA
I DURHAM COUNTY
COMMISSIONERS' NOTICE j
OF SALE
.. UNDER AND BY VIRTUE of
an order of the Superior Court i
of Justice for Durham County, |
made in a special proceedings j
therein pending entitled!
"George Hicks, Individually and 1
as Administrator of the estate j
of Jennie (Jannie) Hicks Wil
liamson, deceased, —vs — Mrs. t
George Hicks, Carrie Souther- j
land and husband, et al, all of
the heirs at law of Jennie (Jan
ni e ) Hicks Williamson, de- j
ceased, or claim any interest in j
in esse and not in esse who j
may be heirs at law of the de
the subject matter", the un
dersigned, who were by said j
order appointed commissioners j
to sell the land described in
the petition, will on the 10th [
day of October, 1967, at twelve [
o'clock, noon at the courthouse |
in Durham, North Carolina, of
fer for sale to the highest bid-1
confirmation by the court, a
certain tract or parcel of land
lying and being in Durham
Township, Durham County,
North Carolina, and more par
ticularly described as follows:
BEGINNING at a stake on the
east side of Roxboro Street
(formerly Pine) located 147.9
feet in a northerly direction
from the intersection of the
east side of Roxboro Street and
the north side of Piedmont
Street, and running thence with
the east side of Roxboro Street
North 3 deg. 0 Min. East 60
feet to a stake; thence South
86 deg. 15 min. East 107.5 feet
to a stake at the northwest
corner of Lot No. 11; thence
South 3 deg. 0 Min. West 60
feet to a stake; thence North
86 deg. 15 min. West 107.1 ft.
to a stake on Roxboro Street,
the point and place of begin
ning, and being the identical
property conveyed to Jennie
Hicks by deed of L. A. Tomlin
son of record in Deed Book 52,
at page 208, Durham County
Registry. House No. 909 South
Roxboro Street is located on
this property.
This sth day of September,
1967.
M. HUGn iHOMPSON and
WILLIAM A. MARSH, JR.,
Sept. 9-16-23-30);
Commissioners ;
NORTH CAROLINA
1 DURHAM COUNTY
ADMINISTRATOR'S NOTICE
HAVING QUALIFIED as Ad
j ministrator of the estate of
' Mrs. Hazel B. Plummer, de-1
I ceused late of Durham County, I
j North Carolina, this is to ho-1
I tify all persons having claims i
| ayainst said estate to exhibit I
, them to the undersigned at C-2 ,
• Driie. J;urba;u. North
| Carolina, on or before March
I 23, 1968. or this notice will be
' pleaded in bar of their recov
ery.
Alt r>ons indebted to said
: estate ail I please make imme
diate payment.
I This tile 20th day of Septom
! tier, 1 !)(>".
John W. Plummer. Jr.,
Administrator Estate
of Mrs. Hazel B.
Pluimner, Deceased
1 Sept 23. 30: Oet. 7. 14
Job Fair Produces 1,000 Jobs for Young People
Any time a civic undertaking
produces 1,000 jobs in two days
for young people from low-in
come families, it rates a salute
from leaders in Government
and everyone else concerned
with today's most urgent so
cial and economic problems. In
Texas, where many things are
big, the City of Houston's re :
cent Job Fair racked up a huge
attendance of young people, and
about 1,000 of them were suc
cessful in finding jobs with
Houston employers. Some had
been looking for jobs all Sum
mer and said they doubted if
they would have found one if
it had not been for the Fair—
shown in progress above at the
Purefoy's Photography
Call: Day 682-2913, Weekend 682-7316
Welcome Students
Tom's °- H o ur 'llfp
Your clothes look better longer.
Colors brighter with "MARTINIZ
-ING" the most in Dry ___+mJk | '
Cleaning . . . and you mi«i 1
SAVE, TOO! '"7 rr H fl
CD cp ,-tt— v SHIRTS Ift | i
dollars ggmk vjzir q ]
With tach claim Finish 1 ft
ehtck for S3 or W 0" Unlti S) L H
mora In dry clMrv a *1 *••• tic M.
Ino brought »n fjM _
5 for $1.50 I
~ £3' o fym/ V own /
wl i a.m. Dally
TOM'S "1 • W. Clate ai*c [ ■I
lm. NarlkMH
OnC HOUR »h—.c-Nrt nm
U /' . Miami BlTd
IJIffRTIfIIZIUS. '«*- m
THE MOST IN DRY CLEANING |
' lho*»l»« CllHr) TMMI T»
SPECIAL NOTICE
New Hours in Effect at Rigsbee Tire Sales
Open All Day Wednesday
Close Saturday At 1 P.M.
HERCULES—Best rubber on the road I _ — ~~"J
RIGSBEE TIRE SALES
J D Brother! 108
Phone 688-1383 Phone 286-4444
Sam Houston Coliseum. Inset
photo (bottom left) shows Ray
Miles being interviewed by C.
W Armstead, Houston District
marketing representative of the
Humble Oil & Refining Com
pany, which hired 65 young
men and women, the largest
number of jobs supplied by any
one company. Another six ap
plicants received jobs from the
Esso Production Research Com
pany, a subsidiary of Humble.
Vice President Humphrey later
called the Fair "a unique inno
vation in good business and
good citizenship," and Secre
tary of Commerce Alexander B.
Trowbridge said it offered "an
excellent example of what for
SATURDAY, SEPT 30, 1967 THE CAROLINA TIMES—
ward-looking leadership! with
loyal support of civic, industrial
and other organizations, can do
in encouraging and promoting
a vital program from which
everybody benefits." The spon
sors included community-action
and human-relations groups,
unions, welfare agencies and
a CUT FL^WEIiS PLANTS FUNERAL DESIGNS J
fir >fli DiAL »yi |
Floret For Ev«ry Occasion jjl
1001 NORTH ttOXBORO ST. $
YOU CAN BANK ON US
(and with us, too)
Undoubtedly you have friends you can
"bank on" . . . the kind that are dependable
whenever help is needed.
You can "bank on" us when you bank
•with us, too. We take pride in being loyal
to all of our customers.
Come in and get acquainted. We like to
make new friends.
B Mechanics & Farmers ,
» -jsfk
114 WIST PARRISH IT. DURHAM, N. C.
It is believed that Henry
lilair was the first Negro to
be granted a U.S. patent for a
planter, for which a patent
was issued October 14, 1834.
other government officials and
agencies, and the City of Hous
ton, in cooperation with the
city's major business organiza
tions and scores of individual
business firms.
5B