' v
'7
'BMMP"-I''--M'I'IIILII', ssssw 1 1 m
,t,4 , Blouse of Tucked Silk.
' riciimv p.tn ih pty!'
. lixvuiv. a.ii .ww
v it
' "EXOX J.U'KKTK VKKY rOITIjAK
,
' Fashion Sheets Filled witn me .--
,1
by Utile CoK Which Permit of
Touches of Individuality Kallors
Seem to Have Returned to Stay
-Tlw Fashionable Colors In Straw.
f
Written for The Observer.
Did you ever see the like of the lit-
. . ... - L, , .
tie Eton Jackets? All fashion sheets
.r ; are filled with them and the streets
; are now full of nicely gowned ladles--all
In some style of this attractive llt
tle coat. Perhaps only one or two In
. every ten will have lung sleeves, for
the short ones in everything continue
to be first choice. Beneath these daln-
tJVT , , a . i K, I
IN a lata, all of luce and tucks, shine.
forth In a wealth of whit attractive-
pes. As the season advances into j
warmer days the jackets themselves
Will grow more and more Into Just the
. " "suggestion" of a coat, being made of
- lace, forming what might be called nn
"outline" of a Jacket. These lacy af
i fairs are beautiful at least the plc-
i tures are nd many white costumes
will be made -with this Kton offect.
These are so very numerous now, the
t wonder will be If tiny do not soon
r- spend their popularity, milady growing
V tired of them for the reason of their
great number. The point now Is
V 'make them -with an exclusive touch
somewhere, which will render each I ri
dividual coat different from Its neigh
bor. ' Cut No. 1 of this page to-day shows
i. - one of these many Eton suits and a
' " different style too from ny we have
seen perhaps. That Is. the Utile cont
& Is different, but In this case not so
, pretty ss some others we have had, 1
, think. This costume is designed
FOR MATRONS OF FASHION.
' ' but perhaps some of us who cannot 1 body-of the blouse Is laid In deep tucks
bosst of belonging to that . lass, might which run aVoupd the figure below a
?s'k' dare copy It. should it strike our fan- i yok Of baiMtnome embroidery. Where
cy. "The foremost makers of dress : yoke ind.6"dy meet there is a stitched
1 are showing the most elegant designs; btynS ,ot Wlk, braid. The vogue for
,',. 1" afternoon gowns, one of the pret- Flifldow ff'';tjill)f shown In the suspen
,,t Wat being sketched here. It is built of iWirtnymto'x tit shSded ribbon which
Empire green !nth striped transversely i combines three, Rharen Of . mauve, the
,. wkb nsinines of black. The skirt has
a hip-yoke of the same mnterlal, scp -
aratlng at the front and continuing to
I the bottom In the effect of two stitched
; pHltH. There In a medium hem. sev-
jeial Inches above which, a two-Inch
i band of black silk bral.1 bound with
green taffetas, is stitehed. A scallop-
ed .iej Imparts novelty to the little
, Eton Jacket, which ha a nest of white
cloth stitched with black ad black
HK revers bordered with green taffeta.
bands of braid, but finished In scallop
ed effect with lace under the scallops."
! 1 n trimmed skirts seem to oe com
'Ina; more and more Into vogue. It Is
. Ha)(1 thgt no,umt priced up-
i on the amount of trimming applied to
the area between knees and .hem.
Sailors seem to have returned to stay
the neason through. Some of those are
plain, using a band only upon them.
but the majority are trimmed. When
the hHt is left plain, the straw must be
of the first " quality. Sketch No. 2
shows one of these sailors with
A NEW FEATHER ARRANGE-
JWENT
.. fmm Par for
building up 'the smart little sailors hqw
so largely demanded by women ;if
fashion. The model Illustrated Is a
leghorn straw of .nattier blue trimmed
with rosettes of. pale yellow lace and
blue satin ribbon, if The full black ostrich
plume rises inibiyfu.ty from the bow
and waves tmckward. The blouse worn
with, "this hat is a simple affair In black
washable net having a square yoke
outlined 'with pand embroidery. It Is
mnde over cream white China silk."
Marry, milliners' seem to be using flow
ers made of tulle or -chiffon or other
sueh soft materials. In preference to
some; of the silffer artificial flowers
ready to 'place upon the. hats. Of
course-"this la? ' mere matter of taste,
for some of the .flowers shown are
beautiful aiid so very natural looking
one "Ah smiiVrty -tell them from the
natural h,J,iirs.,':
but No. 3 'shows rt
fWLOUk-bF TlfCKRD SILK.
"Mere is a French confection developed
In chalk w ntt ' chiffon taffeta. The
: (liest being , alitnosl . a rovat nurnle.
1 CUffs of the ribbon, bon-rl with white
; silk tmd finished with lace trim the el-
'C 1 ! 7"""' '""T-.j . ' j
bow ileeves. Accompanying the blouse
Is a- very pretty hat of white' satin
straw lined with - shirred chiffon and
trimmed With hurge pink roses. At the
left side - under the tiKei : brim is a
handsome wblte ostrich phime.",
' Plaids for young girl are being quit
extensively used Indeed also for older
persona These plaids are modest In
composition, oftentimes tho lln being
only barely seenind these are far
prettier than the ' mot taring ones.
One of these suits is Mown in sketch
No. 4.: With the fieadln . v
ffPKINO OTTLBS FOR TOVNO I
- . OIRLS. iK"
"Plaid Panama cloth is an undisputed
favorite for young girts costumes this
year, and this design shows one of
the many stylish ways of using it.. The
short box coat is Stitched' with fancy
silk., braid, which forms dscoratlvs ' de
Sins about the ront beyond a neat I
of plain -white ciotn. Tnere mr: tns
A New Feather
regulation coat sleeves' with deep cuffs
of the same ' material stitched with
braid. A circular skirt accompanies
the Jacket and repeats the braided
trimming, with addition of a double
rpw of fancy silk buttons." This de
sign Is also said to be pretty made of
any of thheayier wgsh materials. I
should l$hmk It would be-especially at
USMlve made of white linen or one of
We many beautiful colors or little
checks- now shown In this material.
Ske-h' No. 6 sjiows
A RBTTY SEMI-TAILORED HAT.
"Among the most striking of the new
spring millinery modes are the tailored
and semi-tailored hat. Gowns built up
on severe lines are really not complete
without this style of headgear. The
design reproduced la made of fiat lace
straw with a derby chown wreathed
with nasturtium blooms, while the roll
ed brim Is trimmed with satin folds
and quills. All of the ultra-smart hats
this season are high at the side and
back, while almost without exception
the shapes are pressed shapes, made
of the lightest material. The leading
straws are leghorn, so fine that It can
almost be drawn through a finger ring.
Milan straw, tagtvi, or hemp and horse
hair braid. There are but few rough
straws, and these are softened by the
daintiest, filmiest decorations Imagin
able." We hear a great deal about
Pretty Henrf-Tallorcd Hat.
"Empire green and Natller blue, and
atraws In these col..rs sre extremely
popular. The use of black -and white
also the varluos tones of grey, continue
to be greatly liked. Indeed seem on the
Increase. With these Is combined red
In sums shade which gives the sombre-'
ness a very desirable touch of color.
-Quills are being much used for . the
street or knock-about hat while plumes
remain , first, perhaps, for ths dressy
chapeau. Rosea are extremely popu
lar being combined either with aspar
agus or maidenhair feros at least of
tentlmes. The ferns, too, are vsea
alone ss a trimming, and . are very
pretty Indeed on one of the fine cream
straws.
Design No. shows a
NICE WAY TO MAKE A LAWN.
?Th woman of simple taste In 'dress
remains ever with us despite ths fre
quent change of fashion. It Is for her
that frocks of the style shown' her
are sspeclslly designed. This model Is
built of. snwerest French ttandkerchlef
linen, the skirt being laid In boa plaits
ail around ths waist, and allowed to
flare below ths knesa tin circular affect
Ths bodies is shirred, falouving over
belt of dainty ilk. There la a plastron
of embroidery outlined by a band of
tucked lawn Arrish - with stlicMnga
of gatlo ribbon. . The collar and sleeve
trimmings correspond , with the yoke
.. The 'embroidered wash beKt. wMte,
so much in evidence 4ast summer, are
again' to the fore.'; This season they
almost always have' the pearl buckles.
Which are prettier than the cheap gilt
ones so much used a year ago. Of course
tnese too are oeing usm to some ex
tent , in these gilt bucktes-at least
in gold plated ones, a new style Is be
ing shown. No doubt these -will be
made In the pearl and other materials.
If not so now.. This new affair is
known as th button buckle. The but
ton buckle is a buckle, in name only,
for It does not buckle, but buttons, a
Jbutton-hote through, the belt slipping
easily over the stud or button, doing
away wkm j eyelets r that . arop oat,
prongs and pins that prick the nn
gers, catch on coats and Jackets and
destroy the material of the belt The
button buckle Is ' easily adjusted, re
quires no sewing to put on the belt or
Arrangement.
in changing from one belt to another,
and Is suited for use at front or back."
The pictures shown of these belts with
the new fastenings are very pretty In
deed. One of the newest things In
leather belts or girdles are those made
of the -checked leather. "The back-
rground of these is white, having the
tiny single plaid In red and blue:" . "Just
an innovation this to catchvour 'fancy'
because of the newness- No doubt,
however, they will be pretty to wear
with the white suits, especially those
made with a touch of the red or blue
about them corresponding with the
tame shade as that of the belt. Rib
bon bells are In style again and these
are said to De quite novel. "The new
variety Is to be seen In many of the
latest French gowns, and la a welcome
change from kid and leather In colored
girdles. The - cording Is almost an
eighth of an inch wide, very heavy
and varied at Intervals by a barring
of gilt, while at the middle back and
directly in front there-Js a panel show
ing black and white and gold In com
bination." There are Just so many
pretty accessories In the stores, that
one Is actually bewildered in trying to
select. Gold, silver, black and white
belts greet you at every turn, as well
as the ribbon ones, and white wash
affairs. Then there are such really ex
quisite chemisettes embroidered and
made of lace, thkt When seeing them
one Is. sorely tempted to have every
troch she has made so as to wear ths
dainty things. These are still to Be
much worn too, and the separate waists
are so made. , As mentioned some
weeks ago, the sailor blouse for this
very reason the chemisette fashion
are greatly In demand. These are made
with a pretty sailor collars leaving ths
V In which to wear any style of chemi
sette the wearer may choose to select
Truly this Is a most attractive fad. and
one we may be glad ' remaining
with us. ' 1 1 pOROTHY.
- . TABLE' TALK. " ...
' '. K, - AN , EAOTEir ttJNCHEON.
, With Easter eomea spring and its
wealth' .; of . blooms . and greenness.
White whits Is most emphatically the
color of ths Rssurreetlon-tlds nd
our orchards remind us of , snowr
drifts tn their virgin sweetness, yet
low down at our feet, In 'shaded cor
ners, the -wood violets and hepatlras
beam up to 'us with their' Wealth of
royal coloring. Sk" for our luncheon
we msy fitb:mlngle' the two and gar
pish the table with branches of cher
ry blooms, while around them ' the
violet flanta . bddeT ' Irr moss set off
the paler beauties above them.: In
WW
w as
I .'t.'at
- t
r
. f. m.i ' . . ., A' C A , '. S' Sf ST SS SS " . r 4S JT T ' I
Nice. Way to
planning the menu we may, to some
extent, carry ' out . the ' color scheme,
decorating here and there with can
dled vlqlets such dishes as will bear
the addition. ' , -
Unhulled Strawberries with Powdered
Sugar
Cream of Chicken Soup In Cups
Pulled Bread
Fish Tambales Sauce Bechamel
Dressed Cucumbers
Breaded Brains Asparagus Tips
U Broiled Chops with New Peas
Rice Croquettes
Lettuce and Ham Salad
Cheese with Quince Jelly Wafers
Violet Sponge
Fane Cakes Bon-bons Nuts
Coffee
This meal Is one which; by fore
thought and advance preparations,
may be well carried out. even though
the kitchen assistant Is not a skill
ful cook. In such case, however, the
mistress herself must be the leading
spirit and do much of the fine work.
For a luncheon - of eight covers
the following materials will be
necessary-Two Quarts of straw r
iberrles,- one -fowl, - one pound 'and a
natr ot nan out. two or?jnrev eucum'
oers, iour caives orains, rw-o- ouncnes
of asparagus, sixteen rib chops from
young lamb, one quart of shelled
green peas, a half-pound of boiled
ham, cut In very thin slices; two
heads of lettuce, one Philadelphia
cream cheese, one tumbler of quince
Jelly, one-quarter of a pound of can
dles, violets; one quart of cream,
half a doxen eggs, and the various ac
cessories, such as butter, milk. eto.
On the preceding day clean and
disjoint the chicken, put it in a kettle
with two quarts of cold water, heat
slowly and simmer for three hours.
Add two stalks of celery, salt and
pepper to season, and simmer another
hour, themitraln. Set aside where It
wtll chill before night that the fat
may be removed. Soak the brains
In cold water, changing every now
and then until white, then drop In
a saucepan of cold water; add a bay
leaf, half an onion cut In slices, a
heaping teaspoonful of salt, a tiny
red pepper po dand the Juice of one
lemon. Heat slowly, simmer gently
for twenty minutes, drain, drop In
cold water, and when cool carefully
remove the outer membranes. Wash
the halibut,-place In a shallow pan
with a half teaspoonful of salt, a
dozen peppercorns, a slice of onion
and a blade of mare, cover with
boiling water and simmer until the
flesh draws away .from the bones.
Drain and flake very fine with a silver
fork. Clean the asparagus, cut the
tips four Inches long and wrap in a
-t' S 'I v St"4
lii- iv. 1 i - W
'
SZ-?r ft,,
Make a Lawn.
damp cloth. Bol one cupful of rice
In salted water for five - minutes,
drain, put in a double-boiler with a
pint ot weak, but highly seasoned to
mato sauce 'and cook until tender
an'd the sauce Is absorbed. Take off,
let stand for a moment, add two well
beaten egg yolks and a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley and set away .until
cool .enough to form into"; small cro
quettes of any desired shape. Mash
the cream cheese with' a? fork; add
ing Just enough cream to make it
slightly moist and mold In tiny balls.
Order the fancy cakes from the' ca
terer. Make a pint of thin cream
sauce with a scant pint of milk, one
tablespoonful and a half of butter,
two scant tablespoonfuls of flour and
salt and pepper to taste.
Next morning soak one quarter of
a package of granulated gelatine lu
a little cold water and when soft
melt over hot water.' To three, cup
fuls of the cream add one cupful ot
powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of
vanilla, two tablespoonfuls of sher
ry, a few drops of maraschino and the
dissolved gelatine; stir frequently and
when the mixture Bhows signs of
thickeriina.. whfo steadily until it is
sP9Bgy frothy-e M JighttsSros fc two-
mold with a tightly fitting cor?blna
the edges with a strip of greased mus
lin and bury in Ice and salt; this
must stand for at' least four hours
that it may freeie : through ' to the
centre. 'Next divide the brains in
eight, pieces, dip- each In slightly
beaten egg and roll in- fine crumbs.
Bread the rice croquettes' in the
mam a wsv. Ttrnit thA ham lust AnOtigrh
tocolor and while still hot, cut in
narrow strips. Open the lettuce
heads, wash and wrap in a wet cloth.
Pare and thinly slice the cucumbers
and let them stand in ice water.
Heat the clear soup, mix three .cup
fuls of it with the heated thin creum
sauce, see that it is properly seasoned
and strain Into a double boiler .alt
ready to heat at the-proper time. In
a saucepan, make a thick .Bauce with
one tablespoonrful of butter, one table
spoonful of flour and two-thirds of a
cupful of milk. Mix ; this with the
prepared fish, season with salt, pep
per, a few drops - each of onion and
lemon Juice.., Set aside for half an
hour, then mix with" the stiffly
whiriDed whites of three eggs and fill
small buttered, tlmbale molds.'. These
are to be arranged In a shallow drip
ping pan. In a small saucepan cook
together . two tablespoonfuls each of
butter and flour, add gradually one
cupful of strained chicken stock and
one cupful ofkthin cream, stirring un
til smooth nS thick. Season highly,
simmer three minutes, "then arrange
t
f i 6, TT-i i
to reheat (If necessary) ever hot wa.
ter as a' sauce , for 1 the fish, - adding
Just before serving, a tablespoonful of r
lemon Juice and a tablespoonful of ; -chopped
-parsleys ?' The "asparagus tips v
are to be boiled in salted water until ;
tenderthis will . take about twenty ,
mlnutesand are to be served dressed ' -u 'js
with melted, butter,"- The chops haveJ.',
hMn. i trrennhsd; befnr-'e;iellverr.'.'-j-s'rt.vl.:--.r:
.There now remains the berries to
bo ' washed and served . on plates,
grouping them round ah egg cup ; v
nl led' with sugar.. With the soup ,
course serve nulled bread, tearing a f
resh loaf In long strips and Placing V
U In the 'oven long enough to, crisp . "
and brown It' 'Pour boiling water js -,'
around--the nimoaies ana cook in a
moderate, oven - until firm in the ?f
centre about twenty minutes." Turn
out and serve with -a little sauce over ' -them;
dress the cucumbers with a '
Dlaln French dressing. Fry the brains
In deep fat Broil the chops and gar- r
man, wiLn. pa.))r ii inn, Kiiiug ,. .
peas and croquettes with them. Turn ' '
out . the quince Jelly, surround ' with.
the cheese balls and serve with the " "
turned out , sprinkle it with the re-V;
malnder of the candled violets. , r t
CORNELIA C. BEDFORD. r '
I -, ODD RACfir THIS.
Abaohitcly , Ignorant, but Also - Abso. .
"A people who drive 6u any 000'
him it he returns, a- people among - '
whom thieving and infidelity to the
mfiwIrbtpA ifaiiw . nnlinnu-ii - fgtt
highly educated and culturedi Jf yott' 1
would-admit that such a race r tribe ' t.
existed.' said W. H. Hesse of Nerhkl' -at
the Olobo . Hotel. "Such a raco , ,
ooes exist' ' They are the natives ef;.;'.,
northern Siberia. -" . - '
m company WiiH iionn-ii, Durmo, '.-.j-f. ,rK
of this, city, I crossed over from Nome, - ;
Alaska. In tho steamship ownod by
the Amorican company which has se
cured. -the -right vto. explore several ' :
hundred - thousand square miles of
Siberia for' mineral and do a trading
ousinesa xms Doat is usea tn carrv , -
supplies to the stations. I spent sey-,
era! weeks with the natives and stud- :
tea tnem cioseiy. . . me virtues . to ,
which 1 allude they certainly possess, -although
they have no written , Ian- '
guage. literature or education as the. .s
terra ,ls-generally used. . .
i "A wore vlrtuotiH, happy and cm
tented race of people there la not to fc
be found an the face of the earth and ' i
this in spite of. their many privations
and hardships. They live almost ex.
cluslvely upon meats and fish, for in
that section' there is hardly a' trace '
of ' vegetation. The only vegetable
product produced there is a blue ber
ry, which grows on a vine, is about
twice as large as those we have and .
is gathered and ' dried by the natives. -They
live In 'eglos,' circular shaped,
huts, made of walrus skins. These
are about twenty-five feet In diame
ter and In the centre contain a sleep-"
lng apartment made ot reindeer skins,
candy or any delicacy they never 1
So warm Is this inner apartment kept
that to be. comfortable in it- even
in the coldest weather, one must 'strip,
to the -waist. These eglos are heated
with stone lamps, in which whale or
seal oil is Disced and burned with
jjwipks inade of grass, for there Is no
I timber in the ""country. Freauently .
rtwd oc'tltree faflliies inhabit, one of
inese egioe. - . .
"thm people navea.,great wveior
their children.' If glveh a piece ' of
candv or anv dellcacv they never ";
think of tasting itr but take it home "
to the little ones, who seem'' always
io have Brst place in their considera
tions. . They are monogamtsts and :
believe In one supreme spirit When .
one of their members becomes old or
crippled so that he' cannot take care
of himself he has the privilege of
electing to die. and the pleasant duty
of stabbing or strangling himself,
whichever he chooses, falls to." h's
nearest of kin. The victim smilingly
awaits the dav of death arraved in '
all his finery Upon Ills corpse, which
is laid upon the snow., is pla d a
plate. of food, and when this la .'one
-he Is supposed to, have reachei- the ..J'
spirit land. The wolves generally
dispose of the food, as well as of
the corpse. , ,
'These Esquimaux are a frlenflly. .
hospitable people, willing to help the -destitute
or sick, and will do any
thing In reason for the white man.
As a return. It' is the unwritten but
observed law that they are welcome
to eat at the camps of the white men '
or ride on the steamboats or trains -
without paying for it. Like all sav
ages, if such we might term people,- vi
who have so many virtues aTToTio few
vices, they have a natural taste for v
alcoholic drinks and or late years. '-'
have learned from whalera to make
an alcoholic drink from molasses and -sugar,
using a ' kerosene - can as a '
still.- ;.,.
Oerman women . collect what are
supposed to be the - smallest potted
plants in tiie world. They are cacti
growing in pots - about the size of a
thimble, , , --
' ( Always Uniform
'. Always Reliable
Everywhere' Obtainable
BAKER'S
CHOCOLATE
& COCOA
have fttood the tests of time and
- emce for oter 125 years
1
ft
11 t
"t ' -
. Be sure that you get the genuine
with thetoade-markonthepackage.
f Directions lor 'preparing mom ths
I; one hundred dsintr dishes in our
Choice Recips Book, sent frte ofl
1 leqaest.' , J( rp't
Walter Baker. & lCo
&UluUJI780 Dorcheatr, Maaa.
' 'Jf Highest AWardal in
'XXJ Europe and America
m
7jj -
k
t '.
Vi,
Vl,i
4 i f