Thursday,' October 21, 1003.
CORRECT MILLINERY FOR MOURNING
LATEST DESIGNS SHOWN IN
PAGE f OUK. ' .' ' . ' .' - XlXXt SJJX1X J.JJJJU WVIUH , , -
WEAR
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WE are happily so constituted
that we rarely give any
thought to the subject of
mourning until the moment
comes when we find it the only garb in
which we care to appear. Wc arc called
upon to select the gar-ncnts which shall
express our respect foi the dead and
protect us at such time from trying
situations, and find ourselves quite u sea
as to appropriate fabrics and styles.
We cannot afford to make mistakes
tor it is the worst possible form to break
the general rules laid down for those in
mourning. These rules arc not difficult
to follow, and apply to all our selec
tions, whether of gowns, wraps or hats
With regard to millinery, acknowl
edged authorities vary so little in opin
ions that one may accept their edicts as
final. The hats illustrated are made by
the three foremost designers of mourn
ing millinery in Paris and New York,
and embody the features that arc per
fectly new, together with those which
have been long accepted as correct.
Widows' Boutt
The widows' bonnet with veil shown
in the first illustration, a small Mane
Stuart shape, has been best liked for
years In selecting the foundation for a
bonnet of this character, one should
choose a shape having similar lint s. '
either (or a bonnet or toque. A widow''
bonnet should be made of trepe, as it is j
first mourning.
In the example, the foundation is cov- ,
ered with the crepe laid on smxthly
tinder the veil, and the coronet is fin- I
ished with the Usual neat folds, follow-
ing the lines of the shape, and dc-nrateii .
with dull jet licads. These, by the way.
were never so much used as at present !
It will be noticed that the ruche of !
white crepe is no longer worn next tl.. '
face, but appears among the folds of the l
coronet. Ihis is a peculiarity of the
season. In all models, this fold is of
white crepe, and two or three such folds
are sometimes sewed among the black
folds. Tics are noticeably absent in tins
and other of the season's offerings
Tho TU
The veil of cri-pe merits special atten
tion, as it is a new departure. It is two
and a half yards in length, and is fin
ished with scallops, worked in button
hole stitch with dttll-fuiish embroidery
iilk. These new veils arc in the form of ,
long scarfs, and are from three-quarters-!
to one yard in width Very graceful
draperies arc made with them
A novel and beautiful mourning hat
is shown here. Exquisite white tre;s
covers the body of the shape, which is a
sailor with broad, low trown and genii.
drooping brim. The hat is bound wnli
a bias fold of black crepe, and folds of
this material encircle the crown. A
beautiful scarf of a sheer black silk
grenadine is finished with a scalloped
edge like that just dcscrilwd. This
scarf is about three yards long, and is
decorated with rows of wide hem
stitching, as shown in the bark view il
lustrated. It serves the double purpose
of a veil and a hat trimming.
A very l?rge 1U pin, covered with
dull jet beads, adds the finishing touch
to this beautiful creation. The employ
ment of white crepe we find growing
from season to season. This hat is ideal
for a young woman in mourning for
parents, or for a young matron in
mourning for a child.
Momralaf for a Tooag Olrl
For a young girl, dull-finished silk
with touches of black crepe is most often
chosen. Such materials are practical and
durable. A pretty model is shown in the
illustration. Compared with the hats of
this season, it is quite conservative as
to lire, and is made on a much modified
bell shape. The same silk that is used
for covering the frame is fashioned into
THE CHILD WITH THE CROUP
Care and Cure of the Child Affected with this
Dangerous and General Complaint
THE child who has the croup is
a source of the greatest anxie
ty to, the mother. She cannot
rest easily at night, for she feels
at any moment in the hours of darkness
the hoarse, barking cough and the la
bored breathing of the little one will
sound the alarm, and that she must bat
tle with the dread disease.
Croup is inflammation of the larynx.
There are several forms of the disease,
which are hard even for the doctor to
distinguish between in the beginning,
nd the most frequent form is called
false croup. They are all characterized
by catarrh of the larynx, the membrane
of which secretes a discharge. Indeed,
the trouble is generally a continuation
of the cold from the nose to the throat.
The inflammation irritates the vocal
chords and gives rite to the hoarse,
spasmodic cries which are characteristic
of the disease, and the irritation which
keeps up the continuous and distressing
coughing. This trouble affects the up
per part of the larynx, and is rattly, if
ever, fatal Then may be a slight fever
with it.
fatal Dm
The true fatal form of croup is really
diphtheria of the larynx.' The symp
toms from, the beginning are severe.
The mucous membrane ot that- part of
the throat is swollen and inflamed, and
a membrane is formed, and the child
will literally be choked to death if the
air passage Is not opened. The throat
Is so small and narrow that it quickly
becomes blocked.
Before the days of antitoxin, deaths
irora true croup were very frequent, but
the ravages of diphtheria have been
wonderfully lessened by the use of the
serum. In the olden times tracheotomy
was practiced, by which b meant that a
lit was made in the throat and a tube
introduced below the place where the
throat was stopped up, through which
air could enter the luncs. Tracheotomy
was seldom performed early enough to
ot Avail,
A procedure which has saved many
Fe of children is called "intubation
f ! t' t lansx." A n
THE MAR IF. STl'AKT VEIL.
a lare bow and placed at the left front
' f the h:. A handsome C';ite plui.ie
in dull black fa!' from tins bow oer
the bark. The proper touch of crepe is
add" ! by means of the rrrpe-tuvered
ImiKle which fastens the bow to tne
crown cf the hat.
I'or ymmccr misses a wide
allowed in the selection of t
tin- hat. Soft black fills are more poi
ular than hat.s of any other mat. rial, and'
white felts with bla.k trimnunk' are also
mu.li employed llows of silk, some
times fmi'hrd with folds of crepe, arc
the lrual decoration, and crepe is al
lowed for quite young children, whi re
extremes ar- desired. In selecting
shapes for misses there is little choice
outside the usual sailor and flat hats
For youiig chil Iren, as a rule, all white
is more favored than all black.
In Bf r4 to Ehspu
In the selections of shapes for mourn
ing millinery we should remember that
they may not be the extreme of the pre
vailing mode. If high crowns or exag
gerated brims are in vogue, the mourn
ing hat must follow at a distance. In
the best mourning millinery we find
small sailors, toques and innumerable
medium-sized shapes from which to
make selections.
Materials begin with crepe for deep
mourning, and range through silk gren
adines, crepe-chiffon, malines, mourning
silks and dull finished taffeta. Uncut
into the throat, and provides an open
ing sufficiently large to admit the air
into the lungs. It is a great improve
ment UKin the other method, as it does
not necessitate cutting through and
opening the wind-pine, thus making a
wound which must be dealt with after
the trouble is over.
None of the different kinds of croup
occur much earlier than six months, and
the croupy child outgrows it and gen
erally leaves it behind soon after he is
five years old.
A child with a tendency to croup
needs especial care to get in a condi
tion in which it will not easily yield to
attacks. Catching cold is the great
cause of croup. The child exposed to
draughts, which often occur without
the mother's thinking of it, as when the
child stands long at a window in cold
weather, or creeps about the floor where
cold air comes in under the doors, may
have an attack of croup. A child with
a catarrh of the nose is likely to be
croupy, or if the throat is unhealthy, or
if the growths called "adenoids" are
present
FrovtaUtlra Xium
In short, when a child has a tendency
to croup there is a, reason for it which
should be sought and measures taken
to strengthen the child in the weak
points, so as to avoid such attacks.
Sponging the neck and throat with cold
water has been recommended and found
useful. The child's digestion should be
watched. Especially should it avoid at
night indigestible food, .
OM-raaalMta ImUt Ibthoaa
From what has been said in the de
scription of the different forms of croup,
it wilt be seen that all measures of relief
should be directed toward clearing the
larynx of the accumulation of catarrhal
secretions. The old-fashioned idea was
to make the child vomit, and I think
that it has value, in spite of what some
of the modern writers say. If the mem
brane has formed quickly and the child
is blue from lack of air, one should not
stop to make the child vomit by means
of medicine, but tickle the throat with
a feather or tacn- or introduce the
. . j I v.'. "Mr". 3. -J . .1 11
i .. i s i . r ' . ii i wj 'iti 1
it ' t, . v . - ii nvrf-vru , II
HAT WITHOUT VEIL
velvet, if sparingly employed, is allow
able. Dil'I braids and felt are also avail
able. .Materials that can he easily
worked into folds, that will lie close to
the shape, are to be chosen. Combina-
So often indigestion accompanies croup
that the stomach is greatly relieved
when emptied of its contents. The
remedy that most mothers keep in the
house for croup is the syrup of ipecac.
A tcaspoonful of it is given a child from
two to five years old every half hour,
until it vomits freely.
The air of the room should he made
moist with steam, and the child often
gets relief from inhalations of steam
A tent can be made of a sheet over the
bed and the steam introduced under it,
so that it will act directly. Some add
a teaspponful of bicarbonate of soda to
a quart of water, or a tcaspoonful of the
tincture of beuroin. Poultices are of
great benefit.
A correspondent has written telling
of the good results which she has ob
tained from the use of onion poultices,
and she also administers the juice of
onions. The good which comes from
an onion poultice is the same which
comes from an ordinary flax-seed poul
tice, namely, the' continued application
of heat.
Hst tb Orsat lm4y
. Sponges or towels doubled up and
wrung out of water as hot as can be
borne will give the same relief. The
tiling is to keep up continued hot ap
plications to the chest, and the admin
istration of hot drinks will help the
throat. This can be accomplished as
well with hot milk as with the admin
istration of a hot onion syrup, and with
much less discomfort to the mother or
nurse.
Another correspondent writes that
she applies coal oil to the chest and
pives it internally, with excellent effect
The same result can be obtained with
camphorated oil and the administration
of hot drinks.
In conclusion. 1 would u if t1i rh!M
has much fever and has great difficulty
in breathing, and becomes purple, the
case is one of diphtheritic croup, and
demands urgent relief. If the child has
not much fever it is probably false
croup, and that has scarcely been known
to have other than a happy termination.
In the former case, keep the other
children away from the afflicted one,
employ all' the measures of isolation
used in very contagious diseases, and
get the doctor to come as soon as pos
sible to administer antitoxin. And
again I would say. if you have a "crounr
child" do not await an attack, but rW
out what makes it croupy and take ths
means necessary to make it a healthy
UbA mOl child. , , .
M WWW A ,rr
, ,dT; MM I
1
mm 9
A HAT STYLE.
tions of crepe with other materials are
correct. i .
In the matter of trldiming stuffs, we
must make selection '.that will be in
harmony, and there is not a very long
REMOVING SUPERFLUOUS
HAIR
Various Remedies for the
Facial
AN array of letters show me that
' my fricn is are very much
disturbed r.tr the growth of
linir fn tit..,, ft, " An viina"
writes: "My faic .. covered all over
with a soft down, s-ul on my chin are
coare,. ugly hairs, at completely dis
figure my face." 1 S. writes t "Will
you please tell n.e t there is any safe
way to get rid o i .e hair on the face
besides the el.c r.tdle?" T. E.
complains of "ee.-v'' ss fine hairs" on
her face. "E. V" ,--' s for the same
advice as docs "!. V.," ,"H. P." and
many others.
Bamovlag 8prf. : .7;r , ,
In times .ast ' i;.ve"givcn formulas
for the reiuo,. tucrfluous hairs,
with -directions o use them; but
in the light of . . ;ce I do not now
think it wi.'c o, as all depila
tories act by ; vf action on the
skin, and tin! vith greatest care
they are liabk ..!. injury.
Electricity i A means of re
moving sup;: .:irs if they are
scattered and , rc, but if there
are many fit hairs it is not
well to use it. notes the growth
of these, and ;, painful, tedious
process that go through be
fore the f:ie " rod of its hairy
growth. T!; lectridty should
only be use. cases in which,
except for t -.hairs, there is
no tendency if growth on, the
face. '','!...-
Dangtra of T
. If it i', ' . j ' i .-mplov electricity,
be sure t'. .to whom you go
for it rn business- thor
oughly; if : . ,'iilt will not be
sueesfisi edfe most be in
troduce! a- , -t of each hair.
then t'.i.' -.; applied and the
root v. ..." i , ', Tie needle ooes
not ti'" ir- ' I'ulc exactly the
root t'U iM I- ;,... ,cd. If the elec
tricity i 'f"i x strongly or for
mo 'Iri.j ....... .... auult will be a
srjir. . , ' .
I,h iv " - ' 'n which the fare
has b-e.1 i ''ir ir'e -iny 1listi?ured hf the
marks n.'.:i u t'..o eli i ' c r " trv
11
' HAT FOR YOUNG GIRL. '
list to choose from. EKill finished wings,
quills, coque feathers and fancy feathers,
made especially for mourning, will about
cover the ground so far as feathers are
concerned.
Correction of this Repulsi?e
Blemish .
skilfully used, giving a worse appear
ance uian me nairs memseives. tse-
mpmlvr. tfirrpfnr. nnt tn iil,mnt
course of electrical treatment for the
superfluous hairs on the face if you
pave great many nana, especially loose
which are very fine; and having de
cided to use electricity, be sure the one
wno applies it has skill, precision and
knowledge of what it iinHrtflV
otherwise you will be very sorry and
win suiicr pain, loss oi time ana money
for nothinff. and mar h Hifirtir4 Kv
permanent marking on the face.
Tit Uh f TwMMrt
What then are we to do? vou ask.
If the hairs are few and scattered, pull
tnem out witn tweezers, fulling them
out will not increase the number pf
hairs, but it will make them coarser:
but that will not matter, if you pull
them out as soon as they show at all.
The thick fine hairs are much more dif
ficult to deal with. It should be kent.in
mind that oily applications will increase
their growth, and also that much rub
bing of the face will stimulate the hair
follicles.
Sunburn also tends to increase the
growth of hairs, especially on the arms
Dilute camphor or ammonia, and ap-
uutauoni oi icmon-iuice are rooa to
prevent the hair from growing. ' It is
said also that if used continuously for
a long time tney will ultimately remove
the hairs themselves.
The strength of the camohor and
ammonia depends upon the sensitiveness
of the skin. If the skin is very sensi
tive, mal e weaker with the addition of
water. The ammonia which is used
should be the aromatic spirits or the
pure ammonia, and not the cheap house
hold ammonia.
If you wish to try depilatories, pro
cure one that comes well recnmmmAH
there are a number of such on the
market- Never apply a depilatory to
the face without testing it on some
other part of the body first where it
will not show, and when yon apply it
to the face remember that the Vn fcf
the face is twice is if-:iv t t"
THE SCARF VEIL.
In flowers we have quite a variety,
but roses, violets and other small blos
soms are favored. Recently roses made
of ribbon or silk grenadine have been
adopted, and have given us some of the
most beautiful effects; "combined with
great durability and good style.
As effective trimming as possible is
achieved when the mourning hat is
adorned with made wings, flowers or
bows fashioned of the materials used in
the hat. Ornaments are sparingly used,
and are almost invariably of dull finished
jet or enamel, or are crepe-covered.
Bearing these facts in mind, we need
only abide by one simole rule mourn
ing millinery should be simply trimmed,
although the workmanship may be elab
orate and the materials rich tn quality.
Correct mourning millinery is compact-,
and always put together with the great
est care ana neatness.
Chaio of KatarUls ' - '
- In materials choose only the water
proofed varieties. The test is easily
made by immersing a small piece of the
goods in a glass of water. Mflisture
must not remove the crimo from creoe
or the finish from grenadine, or cause
the dye to run.
It is well to know the rules govern
ing the length of time one must wear
mourning, and to remember that in as
suming it, we also assume tome obliga
tions. Wearers of deep mourning must
not lay themselves liable to criticism by
pect that a depilatory will remove the
hair permanently.
It will in most instances take a num
ber of applications to do this; but it
will keep down the growth of the hair
and will, with sufficiently frequent ap
plications, keep the face smooth and
clear. I am asked wbat I think of
shaving the lace in those cases where
A FEW WORDS ABOUT CONSUMPTTON
MORE attention has been di
rected to this disease the last
decade than almost any other.
It U the H!iu afkirt. k..
claimed the greatest number of Uvea in
civilized communities, and Its stamping
out win oe tne result oi well-directed
individual effort Hitherto consumption
- - : j '. 1 1 . .
wu cunsiucrcu ua incuraoie uiseasc, DUt
recent years have led to the understand
ing of its causes, and shown the means
of preventing, and in many Instances
of curing, it . v . .
It is caused by a germ which Koch
discovered twenty-five years ago. The
tubercle bacillus exists In countless mil:
lions in a person who has consumption.
If these can be prevented from reach
ing others the disease can be kept in
check. These germs can only spread
when in a dry state. It Is, therefore,
in dust that they are scattered abroad.
This gives the key to the prevention of
the disease. When a consumptive coughs
he should keep a handkerchief before
his mouth, for it is then he expels enor
mous numbers of the germs, w . . ."
He - should use paper napkins, or
cheese-cloth squares, which can ' be
burned after using. Mf handkerchiefs
are used, they should be put into a
disinfecting fluid at once and not al
lowed to remain it) a dried condition.
Rooms occupied by consumptives should
be swept after sprinkling the floors or
carpets so that no dust can rise.
Curtains and furniture should be
wiped off with damp cloths. A1I ex
pectorations should be made in re
ceptacles in which' is some water or
disinfecting fluid. Small flasks come for
the purpose, which can be carried con
cealed m handkerchiefs, when a con
sumptive goes from home. It is noth
ing short of criminal for a consumptive
to expectorate in the street
Otht OtSM f OranapttMS ( '
Heredity formerly was considered a
prominent cause. The J.art here!i"y
i' - a 'I a g - I s 1 i r t
doing thing quite out of keeping witl,
their trappings, ana ' suit ot woe.
Mourning will not grow irksome when
it is worn its' a sincere expression ot
grief or respect for tit dead. ; ,-
Tim of Moaratnf '
Length of time mourning should bs
worn: ' i:s' '. w.-s -
Widow tor husband Crene for one
year and nine months.' -Black for three
months. Second .mourning for three
months. " ' :
Daughter for tartnt Crept for six
months. Black for three months. Hall
mourning for three months, ' " -rt
Mother tor ton or daughter Crepe
for six months. Black for three months.
Half mourning for three months.
Sister for brother ' or suttrCreot
for three months., Black for two months.
Half mourning, for one month.
Granddaughter tor ' . grandparent'
Crepe for three months. : Black for
three "months. Half mourning for three
months. '-' :
' It is correct to wear the same mourn
ing for your husbandVrelatkmk as for
your own. ' ., t. . y y-
TRAINING CHILDREN
HOW . much is mea nt pt. co
operation of father and mother
i in -"training their children?"
In fact, many a boy's dignity
or degradation is founded- upon the nar-
mony or discord his parents . train
ing. s ,
I know a familv wherein a kind and
loving father would have "trained up
his son in the way he should go, . Dut
every time the child was corrected for
wrong-doing, his mother would "pet"
him, thereby giving him the impression
that his father was "harsh," and encour
aging him to have his own way. As the
child grew older he became, morp unruly
ana inacpenaenc ana nis motner contin
ued to "baby" him. . She even interfered
in the presence of the boy with the
father when he attempted to punish him.
But the reckoning-day came.' The poor
heart-broken motner saw her folly when
her boy, at the age of fifteen, was sent
to the Reform School . - ,
Mothers, do not think you are "cruel"
or "harsh" in teaching your boys; to re- '
spect their father and yourself. - Above
all, let there be harmony in the home.
Training Oar Daughters .' ' v.
We study the care of our sons and
daughters through babyhood and child-,
hood, but I wonder how many are
planning during the early dlys tefmae
all the growing powers toward the goal
of perfect manhood and womanhood.
One daughter was thus unconsciously
and pleasantly taught the best selection
of dress materials, the most suitable ar
rangement of color schemes and the
wisest expenditure of money.
This aforesaid fortunate little lady's
mother began when Margaret was four
teen years old to take her daughter with
her when she a-shoppmg went. For two
years, through the various seasons, the
daughter listened and learned. An exact
account of money expended was kept by
the mother. At the sixteenth year the
purse-strings were the daughter's, with
a mother's watchful word of wisdom
near; at eighteen we find a young
woman who knows' what she wants, why
she wants it and how much aha can af
ford to spend.
Though the only,i child in a home ol
ample means, this! same yoong woman
was taught from kindergarten .days to
make her birthday and Christmas gifts
for -the immediate family. -To an out
sider, in the beginning, they were ioc4
ish little gifts, bnt years have sped and
talents been added, while those 'near and
dear are never forgotten by the fingers
trained by practice and aided by love, i
the hair comet fa very thickly. It is
a pity for woman to hegjn.tbe use of
a razor, however much she may ha
tempted to do so, for, unlike the use
of the tweeaera in pulling out 'the hair,'
shaving stimulates to new and thicker;
growth. The, hairs become constantly'
coarser.. Find a depilatory! and use
that instead. :v ' 1
growth of the tubercle bacillus. fThose
who have inherited a weak cosjurti ra
tion ; those who are aot strong, tho
over-worked, the worried, 'the anxious,
the under-fed, offer less'resistassco to
the germs of the disease. ' ,
Diseased, animals are a source (of in
fection to the human beinsrs. They laws
governing the inspection bl cattle and
the supervision of milk from diseased
cows cannot be enforced too i strictly.
Household pets may have tubertfulosis.
Cats and canaries are liable to It and
such as are ailing and-sickly should be
disposed of, no matter at what ' costlto
the ejections. ... y. - ... ...
kaMtklagjAkemt TrMtataf j . .
A few years ago it wasit houghti best
as far as possible, to send patients to
sanatorium!, where they could have sys
tematic, cure, Gseat efforts were also
made, to obtain a chaege of climatav
and the suffering invalids were sent
from home at great expense land hard
ship. At present, owing to the results
that have been obtained, it' has been
found that home treatment in many
cases can be earned on sticorssiuuTi
provided ft is done btelliently. sn
iom we Beginning. . 1
A, great deal is said about l the open
air treatment of patients. 1-ife m tna
open is one of the surest mean of ar
resting the disease, and a rat srftavent
to recovery. It has been found that,
those who spend night sad day out
side of the house can weather storms
and dampness and great cold pot only
without injurious effects, but w-
benefit if sudden chants of tempera
ture and exposure to wnd are suroideo.
Couchri ara earrli-d nut-of-dnprS fof
those unable to sit o:'St" - r eh!rt
are also used for t r
Th
neaa can ' be prot
i and
f tent
rr .!f.
too, rnurh sun by r
or a shrlter of I
A ffcysi. 1 I t
t.-rt," v ' ' , '
I 4 !
f
ct t e arm or 1 -. I hit