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Paris, Dee. 29.
Just as history repeats Itself, so does fashion, end ;
now we are to have a return of headed trimmings.
This news floated Into Paris, now in the height of the
midwinter season, from the Riviera, where, on the
walks, links and in the casinos, swept by the balmy
breezes from the Mediterranean, and the warmlrs
glow of the sun, fashion is deceived into believing
that it is Spring, and, accordingly, puts on her Spring
garments. Already at the Riviera they are wearing
the garments which will deck the well-dressed :
woman during the coming Spring season.
Judging by the display seen in the fashion centres
of the Riviera, afternoon as well as evening gowns.,
are to be elaborately trimmed. The fur edging and
dainty laces of the present Winter season are to be
replaced with beads. The Riviera is fairly bead
crazy. Jet beads, umber beads, glass beads, large
and small beads, beads of every conceivable shape,
all woven into intricate patterns, are seen' in pro-
fusion. - . .. , .
FUR TRIMMINGS STILL IN VOGUE.
Leaving for the present the Riviera and its Beaton
of beads, and returning to the avenues and cafes ot
Paris and the tearooms and streets of London, we
slip back into our furs. Quite apart from the ever- .
increasing popularity of such Invaluable accessor:?
to a Winter toilette as fur stoles and muffs to match,
fur is greatly in demand also as a trimming, both
for day and evening gowns, and it is used both in
large and small quantities with an equally good ef
fect. In the case of many of the smartest dance
- frocks the net or lace tunics which are worn over
Batln skirts' are bordered with a narrow edging of
dark fur, while dinner gowns in chiffon velvet and
In broche satin and crepe de chine are being made
with trains, the hems ot which are outlined with
skunk or stone marten.
The same thing holds good In an even more
marked degree where walking gowns are concerned.
Dull blue Duvetyn of the soft woollen variety Is the
fabric chosen for a particularly striking gown seen
recently. The skirt -is very fully draped and ar
ranged to give a panier effect on either side, while
the bodice "Is trimmed with broad bands of sable,
starting from under the arms at the back, and then
crossing each other and passing under the arms to
the front of the waist Round the throat there is a
close-fitting sable collar, finished in front with paws
- and tails, and a soft Jabot of ecru lace. These close
fitting fur collars are enjoying a remarkable vagi
just now, and some of the most popular are carried
out in skunk, and finished on one side with a kind of
brightly colored satin ribbon.
Others, again, are made in natural undyed fitch,
with two complete skins in front, arranged to give
the effect ot a fur cravat, and incidentally forming
an excellent protection to the throat and chest. A
third skin passes round the neck, and is fattened up
' closely under the chin with a small head and paws.
To return for a moment to our sketch. The muff
which is carried with this gown is naturally of sable,
and the long, close-fitting sleeves are finished with
sable cuffs. There is something very attractive
about the hat which completes the picture. It is
made in black velvet and in a novel shape with a
softly draped crown, and a brim which turns up
very sharply in front Two small brush ospreys,
dyed to match the blue of the gown, form the sol
: trimming of this velvet hat
CONTRASTING COATS AND SKIRTS.
' Although there is no longer the charm of novelty
about the walking costumes which are arranged
with coats in one fabrlo and skirts in another, they
have taken a firm hold on Dame Fashion's affection,
. and in one form or another it seems certain that
they will be very much in evidence all the Winter
through. One costume ot this sort was noted, the
' skirt ot which is In dark sapphire blue chiffon velvet,
while the coat is of brocade, dyed to match exactly
the color of the skirt, and arranged with raised de
signs in velvet, on a background ot crepe de chine.
This coat is made in one ot the new shapes for the
Winter, with very full basques, cut "sufficiently long
to give the all prevailing tunic effect, and held in
at the waist by a broad belt of white suede, fastened
with one large button, covered with embroiderd sapphire-blue
velvet A very handsome collar ot white
fox lends an air ot great distinction to this brocaded
velvet coat, and can be rolled up closely round the
' throat should occasion require. White fox cuffs
finish the Sleeves, and help to give an air ot dainty
; freshness to the whole toilette. The hat is of velvet
In a darker shade of blue,' with a band ot white
. suede round the crown, and a fine strand ot crane
plumage on one side ot the brim. -;
BLACK AND WHITE HARMONIES.
Lovely as the new colors are this season, there
: remains still nothing that Is really smarter or mora
becoming than well-chosen harmonies in black and
white. Alike for day or evening gowns, this happy
combination seems equally successful. The skirt Is
of black charmeuse, while the coat, which is entire
ly novel in shape, is carried out in white Duvetyn,
and made with long basques, arranged in such a way
that they form a tunic, slightly stiffened at the edge
with whalebone, and showing a black charmeuse
' lining. The fullness at the waist is drawn in with
; a black and whits check ribbon, tied in a smart bow
on one side. '
The upper part of this coat is particularly ' he
coming, with its broad yoke and high Medici collar,
while the sleeves fit closely to the arms and reach
below the wrist. An ermine stole, bordered with a
fringe of tails, carries out the same black and white
, idea, and the hat is ot black velvet trimmed with a
cluster of roses made in soft white kfd. The boots
are of black patent leather, with white suede tops,
. and when gloves are worn they are of white kid with
broad black stitching.
A charming tea gown, modeled according to the
Oriental style, is shown at the right. The gown is
developed in light pink satin and silk muslin. Over
a draped foundation of silk muslin is placed a scarf
bolero of black Chantilly, twisted in front and fall
ing in two long ends finished with jet tassels.
The sleeve; slit at the elbow, is finished by revers
of rosy pink silk muslin, while a small round collar
of velvet of the same color finishes the neck of the
back.
Over a foundation ot satin, veiled by a light pink
silk muslin, and cut in a V in the front, is draped a
"replie" of the silk muslin, which falls gracefully to
the back. A tunic of Chantilly lace, lengthened into
points at the back tails from the waist line.
6 if
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ivt Money
Recent Distressing Disclosures of i
W astetulness, irart and
Immorality in Some of the
Charitable Organizations
-p HIS is the "begging season" of
J I , the many and various charity
societies. The holiday spirit ot
. Christmas kindness makes it easy to
,' solicit subscriptions JuBt now with-
out much questioning about whether
.the money given will be wisely or
Ihonestly spent
J ; And It is from some ot the more
; responsible charity socletlos that a
protest has come again Bt giving
money blindly warning to the pubi
lie not to send subscriptions to any '
society that yon know little or
nothing about. j,
Every charity society has for Its
president a man or woman more or
less well known and a board ot direc
tors or patrons made up ot names "
Which Inspire confidence. This list,
til same Is all that most kindly dis
posed persons require as a guarantee
of the efficient and honest manage-'
srent of the society.
Recent distressing disclosures have
revealed the fact that these worthy,
men and women, whose names are
sponsors ot the societies, often know
. nothing about what the society Is
doing or bow the money la being
spent In fact in some Instances It
would appear that charities are run
for personal graft and In the case ot
the George Junior Republic most
shocking charges ot Immorality have
been made.
And yet the well-meaning but whol
ly incompetent board ot managers or
patronesses ot the Junior Republic
were In childish Ignorsnce of what
was going on la the charity they were
enthusiastically siding snd endorsing.'
These facts are solumnly pointed out
' as a warning to people who read
pathetic appeals, glunci at a list ot
' well-known nainec as patrons and
without further concern write out a
check.
Anybody can start a charity. The
"alms and objects" of the society are
always worthy. There is never any
lifflculty in getting a list ot patrons
and patronesses whose names are
calculated to Inspire confidence. And
it would appear from recent disclo
sures that it is easy to solicit funds.
But how much Is really known of the
work actually done by the society or
in wbst spirit the "aims and objects"
are really carried outt
William E. George, the originator
and founder of the George Junior
Republic has been Temoved from con
trol or personal relations with the
little men and women under his
charge. For many months the affairs
of this splendidly conceived charity
have been under Investigation and
the shocking disclosures are unprint
able. Bo little did the worthy spon
sors of the Junior Republic know of
this man George and the real conduct
of things within the society that
these wretched conditions have been
going on for years unsuspected. What
.did the guaranty of their names
amount toT
Everybody has heard ot the Inter
national Sunshine Society. This or
ganlzatlon came into existence in
181)6 "to scatter deeds of kindness." ;
Its sctivltles have been so broadened
In recent years that In addition to
homes for blind babies and children,
which ft runs, It also conducts a num
ber of sanatorluins or boarding
houses.
But the emotional appeal It makec
for contributions l based almost ex
clusively on its "blind baby" work.
Even moving-pictures of "blind
babies" have been used in this emo
tional campaign. How effective the
appeal la may be Judged from the
fact that the society succeeded In
collecting upward of 189,000 during
the single rr ending Msy 1st, 191'1.
Two of the sanstorlums conducted
by this society are the Bensonhurst
Sanatorium tor convalescents at
Pensonhurst I I . and the Westover
Ledge, which adjoins It and which
although called a rest home Is sub
stantially a boarding house. At the
former, the rates charged convales
cents are from f 15 to $30 a week
and at the latter f 10 a week. Both
of these institutions are or ought to
be sell-supporting, It not proflt-m aid
ing,' concerns. Certainly the re
sources of the charitably Inclined
should not be called npon to main
tain boarding houses which can main
tain themselves.
The affairs ot the Sunshine Society
faave recently been Investigated by a
special committee of the State Board
of Charities, appointed to Investigate
its financial operations. Last year,
through the efforts of its energetic (
president-general, Mrs. Cynthia West-
over Alden, the 8tate Legislature ap
propriated $20,000 tor the organiza
tion. It was claimed that under Its
charter the International 8unshlna
Society was not entitled to this ap
propriation. What the Charity Organization So
ciety thinks of the International Sun
shine 8ociety appears from a state
ment recently Issued by it In which
it says, In part:
"The fundamental weakness of the
Sunshine 8oclety lies in Us misuse
and abuse of sentiment It was not
founded to deal with a definite social
problem. It was founded to encour
age Its members to deeds of kindness. -The
tact wss overlooked that kind
deeds. If Improperly directed and if
unlntelllgently done, though prompt
ed by good Intentions, really are not
kind In effect The society's potlcy
brought It money. In finding ways
' to spend this money it became in
volved In enterprises which were
not charltsble."
An excellent example ot the man
ner In which prominent names are
used to procure contributions to en
terprises which may or msy not be
worthy Is afforded by the history ot
the William McKlnley Memorial Ho
pltal League, organised some five
years ago.
The object of this league ostensW
bly wss to erect a 1160,000 hospital
as a monumont to the martyred
President In some way or other,
those back ot the project succeeded
in getting President Taft to commend
it and upon the strength of his ap
proval there was no difficulty in se
curing other prominent persons to
tend their names to it
N As a result the promoters of the
project sent out broadcast appeals
upon letter-heads, upon which were
printed the names ot an alleged
"Council of One Hundred." This list
of names Included those of Hon. Jud
son Harmon, Governor of Ohio; Hon.
Woodrow Wilson, then Governor ot
New Jersey; Hon. H. C. Aldrlch,
Governor of Nebraska, and twenty-six
other Governors, Congressman Nicho
las Long worth. Dr. David Starr Jor
dan, Rev. Joseph Silverman and
various other Senators, college presi
dents, ministers and prominent in
dividuals In all lines of endeavor.
No more representative list than
this could possibly have been pre
pared, although this Council ot "One
Hundred." as listed on the letter-head
In question, numbers only sixty.
Upon the strength of tills formi
dable list ot names, .some 10.000
Individuals enrolled as members of
the league snd upward ot 16,000 was
collected. What has become of this
money? Mr. Taft doesn't know,
Woodrow Wilson couldn't tell and no
body else In the splendid list ot
governors, college presidents and
clergymen can say. This Illustrates
again how cheerfully people ot
prominence and reputation lend their
names to charity schemes which they
know nothing about
People who are asked to give char
ity are frequently influenced by the
clerical or semi-clerical garb worn
by the solicitor.
There are a number ot "mission
aries" who go about attired In this
manner and raise hundreds ot thous
ands ot dollars -collectively every
year for orphan asylums In Turkey
or other Oriental charities. Impetus
was given to this kind of sppeal as
a result of the Turkish-Bulgarian
war, which left, many victims on
both sides.
oCLWify Societies
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This Mixing of Both Sexes Is Criticised.
Town Meeting of Citizens snd President and Cabinet at thr
George Junior Republic.
A large percentage ot these solici
tors are downright frauds. The
Charity Organization Society recently
undertook' an extended investigation
of the subject and It reported that it
found that as a class these men are
unmitigated frauds, who, armed with
the forged endorsements of foreign
ecclesiastics and with the letters of
unwary local officials and ministers,
make a business of soliciting for al
leged missions and orphan asylums
In Syria and Asiatic Turkey.
No one ought to be Induced to
contribute to solicitors of this char
acter without the moBt rigid investi
gation. The farther away the object
ot the charity is located, the more
carefully should the claims made tor
It be scrutinized;
Very touching appeals are- being
constantly made for contributions'
to support the Home for Homeless
Hoys, In East One Hundred and
Twenty-third street This is a "one
man" concern, having no board ot
directors. It is run by a man named
H. O. Eva. Solicitors who call
themselves "missionaries" and are
attired in a garb not unllk that of
a priest find It a simple matter to
seoure contributions.
Recent investigation revealed that
the Home for which these success
ful appeals are made bad accommo
dations for forty boys but no bath
ing facilities, no medical examina
tion and no supervision of the dor
mitories. Its application for incor
poration was recently refused by the
State Board of Charities.
Sometimes the solicitor leaves off
the garb, but assumes the title of a
divine. For twenty-five years or
more the "Rev." William H. Ram-
scur. a venerable looking old man,
succeeding in collecting thousands
ot dollars for various "homes" he
claimed to conduct from time to
time. He was constantly getting
into trouble with the law and -on
one occasion served a year in the
penitentiary for an assault he com
mitted, but when he was at large
be was a most assiduous collector
for his various charitable enter
prises. Investigation' revealed that the
"homes" he ran were ot the most
Inefficient character, to say the
least, and would hardly have been
considered worthy of contributions
had those who made donations made
even the most cursory examination
ot the facta.
Many ot the charitable organiza
tions which make emotional appeals
for funds and get them are much
less pretentious than the literature
they send out would lead one to
expect
Of course, It Is necessary for in
stitutions to do a certain amount ot
Investigating before distributing the
funds they collect and it is not al
ways possible to procure voluntary
workers for this service. It has
been said that only 23 cents out of
every dollar collected by the Charity
Organisation Society is spent ac
tually for actual relief that the rest
goes for office and other expenses.
This may or may not be correct, but
even If It Is, It must be remembered
that It Is much better to. have 23
cents out of every dollar donated to
charity spent wisely than to have
twice the total amount collected by
that organisation distributed lndis
crtmlaatelv. ,
But sometimes this Investigation
Is a tittle too extensive and much
too expensive. In tia case ot a
worthy widow. Mrs. Maggie Ustlch,
for Instance, it was discovered that
no loos than $3,000 was spent Ural
and last in investigating her worthi
ness and she finally received
various sums aggregating less than
$3001: cos'. $".,000 to decide about
disbursing $300.
Many other Instances might r
cited to show how necessary it It
for the person who desires to give
to exercise a little discrimination in
doing so.
The Merchants' Association ol
New York issues some very valuable
"don'ts," which It might be well tot
every one to observe:
1. Don't give to a collector Just to
get rid of him. Frauds flourish upon
the folly ot people who do this.
2. Beware of one-man organiza
tions. 3. -Don't give to any organization
which does not have Us accounts
satisfactorily audited yearly and
which la not willing to make public
annually a financial statement
4. The fact that a woman appeals
to yon for a contribution does not
necessarily imply that the charity
In which she Is Interested is worthy.
Fraudulent charitable enterprises
are quite as often conducted by
women as by men.
5. Many appeals for money en
large upon the sufferings of the poor.
Because there is misery In New York
Is not proof of an agency's efficiency.
Find out what the society in ques
tion Is doing to stop this suffering,
and give accordingly.
6. Atwsra Investigate before yon
subscribe. There U no disgrace In,
giving wisely. ,
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