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A Cavalier Costume of Flsrae-Colored Ttffeta.
Worn l (he Race ia Pari.
By . Lady .DufF-Gordon.
ILL (ads do not become fashions.
jul all-fashions bad their origin
In (ads. Before telling you of
. some fascinating fads of the mo
ment I must describe two costumes which
I saw ' a few ; weeks ago at the races.
There was nothing at all "faddy" about
them; each detail new as It was. marie J
an accepted fashion. Cr
One of the most beautiful actresses on
tie French stage -wore what ! Immedi
ately named a Cavalier costume. It was
built of rose taffetas, the , cape, which
gave It Us name, being lined with a start"
ling black and white brocade. The bod
ice was a Ught-flttlng affair, 'quite "old
'i
" ' 1 - 1 1 1 ' - 1 - .. , ... ..., , , i. n-. , . ..I. t .. II I.H..I.-I .11 I IWaiB
Social Sanity Ttire-atened, Says Our Foremost Psycliologist
asiSlaisZaiaZaiaZaSBa
Prof. Hugo Muensterberg, of Harvard, Points
Out, in His Latest Book, the Modern Ten
dencies Away from Social Equilibrium, De
clares Old American Qualities Have Been
Lost and "That Imperial Rome Should Be a
Warning to Imperial Manhattan."
By Prof. Henry L. Weston, Ph. D,
PROFESSOR HTGO KUBN'STERBBRO. of
Harvard University, who la commonly
regarded as the leading psychologist of
America, has Jut published a new book of es
says "Psychology und Social Sanity" 'Double
day Pane t Co.).
Tbe distlnsuislM'd psychologist appear to be
ef the opinion that America U rapidly wander
ing away from norliil hanlly He item grav.
dangers in the onlvenml rrnM for nennuous
daDct. He (oiim toil. hII tlie best elements of
New England I'lirltnnlsin lmve bct-n perverted
er subnierxed. He Itntt that tbe whole country
is being flooded with sex literature and sex
plsys and that the proposal to give sex Instruc
tion , to young people is a grave menace to
modity and monility. He even looks forward
to a time when diMrepsitabl. women will sway
t' public life of America, as they formerly did
that of i'run'-e.
He fear that th. Ideals tha made America
great will be lout in tbe rlulu tide of soclail.tm.
He 1 alarmed to find that a large part ot th.
population Is victimized by what he calls "th.
Intellectual underworld." composed of seers,
mind renders and quacks., who prey on th.
superstition of tbe weak minded. In fact, tbe
American nation onnat appear far the Harvard
psychologist at times Ilk. a vast lunatic asylum.
The new dances sr. the social phenomena
that tb. professor evidently regard, as moat
disconcerting, not to say exciting. Her. it must
b. remarked that the tango and th. maxlx.
acquire a new Interest when described by se
eminent a scholar. .
"Can w. deny," asks Professor Muensterberg,
ithat this recent ersse whlcn, ilk. a dancing
mania, baa whirled over the country, is a sig
nificant .xpremlon of deep cultural chants,
which hav. com. to America? Only ten years
ago such a dancing fever would hav. bn lna-
nlbl.. People danced, but they did not Uk.
iiiooaly. It wss set ot from life and mot
allowed to penetrate It. It bad still essentially
th. rol. which belonged to it in a purltanls.
bard-werklns; society. But tb. last dewd. ha.
rapidly swpt away that New England tamper
Which was so aver. ttb. wnmiona enjoyment
ef life, and which long kept an Invisible control ;
Tr the spirit of th. whol. nation. Rjrroptom
t th. chans. abound; bow it cams about is av
etrrfr qneatlon. '
"Certainly the tnereess and the wide dutrlbw
I I &
tlmey." in fact The cape had the
high collar which only the woman
with a long, . slender neck should
wear.
I particularly liked the hat It
was Gainsborough in effect, with a
wide ribbon band or streamer com
ing from . the under side of the
brim and drawn over to the oppo
site ehoulder. , The bat was a corn
colored affair.' trimmed with pink
roses. The streamer was pale blue
satin.
The black taffeta and crepe turn
up gown was very striking. . Tho
tunic was accordion pleated and
was festooned In an unusual fash
ion.' The graceful "open-face" bod
ice had the blgb-colldt effect -which
seems most necessary this year, and
the extremely long sleeves.
Tbe hat worn with this chlo cos
prim little
tume was in sharp contrast to tbe
wide affair I have already- described
It as a black Milan, with a bigh. pointed
crown, and Its highest point topped with
a black fantasle.
One strikingly pretty novelty is the
placing of big. pearl white shells in tbe
front of a little white crepe hat which,
for the rest. Is Just banded about with a
narrow black velvet ribbon held , In a
Jaunty little bow at the base of the aliall
in front
Then, again, another white crepe hat
has two ornaments , which, in color and
shape ' and f general ' effect might easily
and actually be lobster claws! , As a mat
ter of (act the likeness Is so close that
they t must needs have 'been'1 modelled
from these particular and somewhat pro-'
trimming on
colored silk
Then, curving 7 ail' along
one side, are some wheat
ears of brilliant sapphire
blue shading! Truly the
Ingenuity of the fashion-'
makers Is I wonderful
and endless.'
To go back to the .
white fasts, however.
tlon of wealth with its comforts and luxuries
were responsible, as well as the practical com
pletion of the pioneer days ot -the people, the
rich blossoming of science and art, and, above
all, tbe tremendous Influx of warm-blooded, sen
sual peoples who came in millions from Southern
snd Eastern Europe, and who altered th. ten
dencies ot the cool-blooded Teutonic races la
tbe land.
"They have changed th. old American Sun
day, and they bava revolutionised the inner lift,
they have brought th. opera to .very large
city, and the ktuematograpb to every village,
ami bsv. at Inst playd tbe music to a nation
wide dance. Tet the problem which faces every
one is not how this dancing crate arose, but
rather where It may If ad; how fur it 1 healthy
and bow far unsound; bow tar it is healthy to
yield to It or further It, and how far ws ought ,
to resist To suswer this question it is not
enough to watch the ouuide spectacle, but w.
must inquire into the mental motives snd men,
tal consequences. Exautly this la our true
problem.
"Let us flrat examine the psychological debit
account No or can doubt that true dangers
are near wherever tbe dancing bablt Is prom
inent Tbe dance is a bodily movement which
alms at no practical purpose and is thus not
bound by outer nor sanities. It la simply self
express Ion, and this gives to th. dancing ln
puis, ths liberty whlcn easily becomes licen
tiousness. Two mental conditions help In that
direction: tbe mere movement as such produces
increased excitement and the excitement rs
enforces the movement, and so the dance has
in itself the tendency to become quicker sad
wilder and more and more unrestrained. When
gay Vienna began Its waltxlng erase In tbe last
century. It waltsed to the charming melodies
of Lenner in a rhythm which did not demand
' more than about one hundred and alxty move
menu in a minute; but soon cam. Jobana
Strauss, tb. father, snd the average waltsing
rhythm was two hundred and thirty a mlnota,
and finally the king of waits, Johann Straasa,
th. younger, and Vienna danced at the rhythm
ef tnntf hundred movements. .
"But another mental effect la still mor. a1
1 . nlltcant than th. Ian puis, to lncreaae rapidity.
Th. anlformlty of the movements, and eepeo
tally of th. revolving movement produces s
state ot balf dlutne and half aumbneas with
ecirUUo elements. Ws know the almost hyp
LADY DUFF-CORDON, um fsmow "La
tile" of Londoa. and fortnort cictte? of
fnhioni ia iht world, write each week UM
funic article fot this newspaper, presenting aD
that a oewert end beat ia style feu well-dressed
women.
Lady Duff-Co rdoe's Paris ettaMisluBent brings
her into close touch with that centre of fashioa.
talc edibles, their actual composition be
ing, however, milk, subjected to some
new solidifying process and .then daftly
colored.
By the .way, these lobster red orna
ments are affixed to the sldea of the hat
by big . sapphire blue pins, so that there
is patriotism a well as picture squenesi
In tbe resulting color I schema of . this
latest Parisian creation.
It would seem.' indeed, that there is
to be a great vogue for white hats thjs
Summer, satin, taffeta, moire, areophane
and crepe being the fabrics chosen for
the making of these coot-looking and
charming models. and touches of black
often figuring In their trimming. One
typical and very pretty thing in jwhlte
satin has a narrow black velvet ribbon
drawn round the low crown and tied in a
bow at the right side, though
It Is afterwards hidden from view by
a half-circle of full-blown pink roses,
above .which , rises a '. stiff ( row of
leaves in the shining -black patent
leather, which Is also being used to
model many rather weirdly marked
and colored blossoms presum
ably anemones, or popples their
glossy blackness being hand
painted with -splashes of white.
1
H 1 1
or brown, or tawny orange.
Three such strange and smart
flowers fleure as a central
a little old rose-,
hat
notic state ot the whirling Dervishes and tbe
raptures in the savage war dances; all this in
milder form is involved 'in ever? passionate -dance.
But nothing is more characteristic ot
such half-hypnotic states than that the Indi
vidual loses control of his will. He behaves
like a drunken man who becomes the slave ot
bis excitement and of every suggestion from
withont No doubt many seek the dancing ex
citement as a kind ef substitute for ths al
coholic exaltation.
"That social Injury must be feared If the
social community indulges In such habits ot
undisciplined, passionate expression needs no
explaining. The mind is S unit; it cannot be
without self-control in one department and
under the desirable self-dtsclpllne of the will in
another. A period in which the mad rush ot
dancing stirs social life must be unfavorable
to tbe development of thorough training and
earnest endeavor. The fate of Imperial Rome
ought to be the eternal warning to imperial
Manhattan. Italy, like America, took Its art
and science from over the sea, but gave to- them
abundant wealth. Instead of true art, It culti
vated the virtuosi, and in Rome, wblch paid
three thousand dancers, the dance was Its
glory until It brgan ingloriously to sink.
"Not without inner relation to tbe inebriety,
snd yet distinctly different IS the erotic char
acter of the dance. Lovemaklng Is the most
central, underlying motive of all the mimle
dances all over the globe. Among many primi
tive peoples tbe danoe is s real pautonrtrule
presentation of tbe whole story from tbe first '
Under awaking ot a sweet desire through tbe
warmer and warmer courtship to ths raptures
of sensual delight Civilized society has mor.
or less covered tbe naked pasHion, but from ths
grscefut play of the minuet to the graceless
movements of tbe turkey trot the sensual, not
to say the sexual, element can easily be reo
ognlxed by th. sociologist
"Here again cause and effect movs In a
circle. Love excitement expresses Itself In tbe
dance, and the dance heightens tbe love ex
citement This erotle appeal to the senses is
the chief reason why the church has generally
taken s hostile attitude. For s long while ths
dance was denounced as Irreligious snd sinful
en account ot Saloma's blasphemous dancing.
: Certainly the rigid guardians of morality al
ways look asksnos on the contact of ths sexes
Ia ths ballroom."
; Tbs professor shows a profound knowlsdgs
ef tb. dance end throws much new light upon
the csuses ot tbs sensual dangers that are as
sociated with It
"Th dance bas sttn another psychological
effect" he continues, "which must not be dls
. regarded from s social point of view. It awakes
to an nnusual degree tbe Impulse to Imitation.
Ths seeing of rbythmle movements starts simi
lar motor impulses In the mind of the onlooker.
It Is well known that from tn .leventb to tbe
sixteenth century Europe suffered from dancing'
epidemics. Tbey started from pathological case
f Bt Vitus" dance snd released in tb. excitable
crowds cramplike Impulses to Imltativ. movs
msmU. But we hear th. asms story of In
tlnotlv. Imitations on orraslona of fees tragi. ,
character. It is reported that In th. .IghUanth
cntury papaf Rom. was indignant ovsr th.
passional. Hpanlan. fandango.
"It was decided solemnly to pot this wild
dance under ths ban. Tb. lights ot tb. church
wer. sasambled for th. formal Judtuiu.it when
It was prcpo-Md to csll s pair of Spanish
Coprrlsbt, ISli, by Ue Star Oomcxuiy. Ursa UrlUla Wahu
V i
I : vet m X
dancers In order that every one ot ths priests
might form his own ides of the unholy dance.
But history tells that the effect was an unex
pected one. After a short time of fandango
demonstration the high clerics began involun
tarily to Imitate tb movements, and the more
passionately the Spaniards indulged in their na
tive whirl, the more the whole court was trans
formed into one great dancing party. Even
the Italian tarantella probably began as a dis
ease with nervous dancing movements, and then
spread over the land through mere imitation
wblch led to an ecstatic turning around and
around. Whoever studies the adventures of
American dancing during the last season from
New York to San Francisco must be impressed
by this contagious character of our dancing
habits. But this means that the movement car
ries in Itself the energy to spread farther and
farther, and to fill the dally life with Increased
longing for the ragtime. We are already ao
customed to the dance at the afternoon tea; how -long
will It take before we are threatened by
tbe dance at the breakfast coffee T" ,
The professor points out the interesting fact
that the overemphasis on dancing has usually
characterized a period of political reaction, ot
Indifference to public life, ot social stagnation
and carelessness. When ths volcanoes were
rumbling tbe masses were always dancing. At
ail times when tyrants wanted to divert the
attention of the crowd they gave the dances t
their people. A nation which dances cannot
think, but Uvea frcm hour to hour. The less
political maturity ths more happiness does a
national community show In its dancing pleas
ures. Ths Spaniards snd ths Polish, ths Hun
garians and ths Bohemians hsvs always been
great dancers ths gypsies dance."
Ths professor declares himself by no means
sverse to all dancing, but his essay Is plainly
mors devoted to the dangers ot the present
popular form ot it than to ths benefits to be
derived from rational and modest Indulgence.
In his Interesting esssy on "Sex Education"
Professor Muensterberg makes a bitter attack
on ths policy ot giving instruction In certain
physiological facts to adolescent boys snd girls.
Hs asserts that the mystery with which such
subject were formerly clothed wss the best
protection of the modesty and innocence of ths
young, and that such instruction as ,1s gives 1
must arouse a desire to sin without suffering
the penalty. The professor admits that ths
policy of Instruction has proceeded tar and
calls on society to reverse It He calls atten
tion to some remarkable evidences ot social
demoralization bs baa witnessed.
Again and again he declares that sex mat
ters are being overemphasised la this ccantry.
Perhaps the most novel passags In this essay
Is that in which bs suggests that as a result ot
ths erotic stats of ths public mind women of
bad character may exercise dominating InCo
enc. In American affairs, as they did at the o.l
French court and in other hlstorio periods. Hs
makes this startling suggestion la Us follow
Ing words:
"In this vicious circle of craving for sensual
life and talking about sexual problem ths
erotio transformation of ths whols social be.
hsvlor Is usually a rapid one. The Rococo age
reached many subtleties, which wo do not
4ream of as yet but to which the conspiracy
Stelnat silence msy boldly push us. Read tbs
memoirs ot Casanova, the Italian of' the
Reeei
irved,
, -t
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St'
The New
fun
adlU
Latest
FriUy
NecJnretn
soma oi them are kept spotless tnrougnoiit
by Just having luster , of .whit coqus
feathers fastened at ' one sld though
even more fascinating,' perhaps, Is the
arrangement of the curling white plumage
all round the crown ot a tHtle satin hat
and the Introduction ot Just two little
quill feathers ot the palest possible pink
or very daring thlsl-r-oae single. strand
ot scarlet
V Miy floral hats,' too, then tr which,
tvbov young, fresh faces and aaturaily
bright hair, wta look charming. A
mass of Httle roses modelled la whits
muslin and silk and just tinged In the
centre with taint yellow will thus cover,
a small smart shape In white areophane,
with a brim bordering of .straw, the onlj.
thing to relieve and . give height :t
the flat, compact mass of flowers being
a little yellow-plumaged bird wmcn nas
4 alighted with outspread wings at one
aim. AilULUVr RUU -,u,i,ou munym mwwv,
of pure white roses Is left without any
further trimming whatever, though its
sharp up-turning at the back brings Into
effective contrast a closely packed. mess
of roses which are all black.
So much for the novelties or which
every one will have a full view. But
there are others, equally notable, whose
fascinations must needs be reserved tor
the favored ew, inasmuch as thez take
the form of underwear and nightdresses.'
eighteenth century, whose biography gives i
vivid picture of a time in which certaiiuy
one was silent on sexual affairs, and in waits
life was essentially a chain ot gallant adrav
tures. ,
"In the select American circles It is slreMJ,
noticeable that the favorites ot rich men gets
certain social acknowledgment The great
masses havo not reached this stags st present,
which Is, of course, very familiar In F""
But it we proceed in that rapid rhythm
which we have changed in the last ten yews,
ten years hence we may have substituted a
influence of mistresses for the Influence
Tammany gratters, and twenty years bancs
Madame Pompadour my bs dwelling not Mr
from the White House anS controlling th
of the naUon with her small hands, as shs oia
for two decades when Louis XV. was KU
History has sufficiently shown that these u
the logical consequences ot the sensuaJliatws
ot a rich people, whose mind is filled wj
sexual problems. Are ws to wait too, on'"'
greet revolution or a great war shake ms
nation to Its depths and nammers
of morality into ita oonscienceT"
This 1 the effect the policy of dUcuisW
matters that were formerly hidden from tns
young is now producing. In the opinion of K
lessor Muensterberg:
"It means to fill the atmosphere I" wnl
growing adolescent moves with sultry Mes
It means to stir up ths sexual desires snJ
teach children how to Indulge in them with"
Immediate punishment Just as in (fJ
munlty ot graft and corruption- ths lndinaws
soon loses the titer feeling for honesty sw
crime flourishes simply because every w
knows that nobody sxpecU snythlng better, ss
in a community in which sexual problemi ar
the lessons ot ths youth and ths dinner taut
the adult the feeling ot respect tor ss
deepest emotions fades away. Min, 1
woman loss ths instinctive shyness in mess
ing on this sacred ground, and as ths org"
desires push and push toward U tho yon'"?"
discovers that the barriers to ths forbwow
ground are removed and that In their P"j
stands a slmpls slgnsl with a suggestlvs
of warning against soma sssUy avoided trl
Ths wisest policy, ia Professor Muensur
berg's opinion, will be to strengthen
stlnctlvs emotion ot mysterious respect was
makes ths young mind shrink from hruti:
truslon into ths most saonid rsUUonsWps
Among many other mterostlng' cbservs
en socialism. Professor Musnstsrberg -this
forecast: j
"Ths country has entered Into ear "
progressive experiments; ths tradition "j
spent i tor ths old constitutional syswni
checks and balances to the mere will
crowd has been undermined. Ths reel ' -tlvs
reign of the ccssaes bas just begun.
would seem only natural that such sa fr;'
sw movement should bs poshed forysJ", '
It own momentum. If the genius ot Am""
which was conservative, turns radical, tb p
teal machinery her. would b. mors ,zZ
that of any other land to allow tbs ifJT
msnt of soclsJIam. This will not coins
r to-morrow, but that socialism msy u1fa;
' bs with us th. day aft.r to-morrow Is ths rj
sibinty with which ths nsulrsl obssrvsr
count" '
i
sty