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What Hakejxthe Dclp'
New
Charming
"Lucile"
Walkinff Dress
of Semi-Military. Cut
Remarkable
Experiments by a
Famous French
Scientist Which Shows
Fish Shapes Are Made Entirely
by Water Pressure
ordinary- and Orotesqu
Pishes Which Aw ,
Taken from the
Lowest Depths
of the Sea.
Their Stranire Shanes.
Professor Houssay Finds, Are Caused Entirely by the
Enormous Pressure of Water in Which They Live.
By FREDERICK
Professor at the
HOUSSAY,
Sorbonne.
ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and fore
' must creator of fashion in the worldN write each week the faihion
4 nrtiile for tius newspaper, preenting al that is newest and bet in
tyles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon' Pari etablishment brings her into close touch
villi that centre of fashion. -
Lady Duff-Gordon's American etatlishment i at No. 37 and 39
Vest Fifty-seventh street. New York.
I
1E
- ,1 ' .
V . ' r
'Lncilo" Dress Showing the "Turko" Soldier Skirt at
"Military" Girdle.
Lsndon, Sept. 6
T Is ''difficult, Indeed, for me to
writs of fashions with the war
horror brooding over all Europe
now. Paris Is no longer the centre
of fashion It Is a place where sor
row and patriotic hope alternate and
nothing is thought of except the men
who go out to battle, the men who
do not return and the preservation
Of France.
There will he no models ehown In
Davla ttita vanrf
Before the shock came that threw
alt life here out of Its aecustomea
grooves it was apparent that this
ha a valvet season. The vel
vet was to be of richest Lyons
mu .nmhlned with softest Chlf
fona It was to have been a costly
f..hinn tup In Paris. In colors
black was to predominate a hit of
saddening prophecy. There was to
have been a great deal, too, of navy
hii hnttln ctbpii and tete de Deere.
As an aftermath ta the one shade
scheme, which was to have been at
first iha mnnt faiihlorible. there was
.to follow such striking contrasts as.
for Instance, a gooa corsage or reai
. .mi.. .vHrrnn valvet colored and bor
riariwi with black fox and a skirt of
Aa a material for evening wraps
n valvat will aeain be to the fore
in rh hum. of course', the
more brilliant colorings wia be used
to splendid effect, ana tneir general
"sumptuousness" further increased
by broideries of gold or silver and
V.. A Kxrilnrlnn nf fur.
Ul UDU VV.WW....o
Than, acain. there was to have
hnan and will be available for the
maVlnv nf avanlnff Browns, nlnons
brocsded with velvet roses and
reaves, or else perhaps patterned
with Harenv velvet Rulmtfes. wnicn
kmhan lnn at Intervals bv
trl-colored shamrock leaf or a cluster
of t nv rosebuds, sheltering wumn
a olwtat nf 1eav aannhlre blue
petunia and green being one typical
triple alliance of colors. , .
But even apart from their frequent
m a maa rtankffrnund for this
dominant and decorative velvet, the
olnons s i- going to have a special
success oil their own account In
many cases they are weighted by
' haavr metallic desisms: tall taper
tnc leaves of sliver showing out
against blue as intense as a tropl
n.l a a nn4ar tha nonnlAV aun
While on another a blur of blossoms
In blue and rose and flame and
rraan makes barkcround for Other
Angara all wrnnrht In rnld and lends
a new and ever changing beauty of
shading to their shining peiais.
It would seem, too, that the new
"frosted" effects are going to be
very popular, and certainly they are
,.n Kakt an1 nrattr. aa well as
novel. Twisted threads of silver or
gold tinsel are used for inese ae
slgns, which are either brotdered or
plate ninon, or a pattern trinted In
many soft shadowy colorings on an
Old scttj ground.
It has been more difficult thaa you
Can Know lor me .o write mis
VERTONE who has seen the weird, grotesque monsters that
from time to time are brought up from the lowest depths oi
h nnaan wnndareii what It is that has made them so
misshapen. They are like nothing seen on land or in air and they
bear no Resemblance to the graceful denliens of the shallow reaches
of sea.
It
By a series of experiments we are now able to say that the shape
of these deep sea monsters Is produced almost entirely by water
pressure alone.
To understand how water was awe to moum ine nan -wo uivo
to understand that every living creature Is plastic, that is to say.
may undergo some deformation under pressure, 'lo tane one ex
ample of many, every one knows that It a child holds Itself badly It
will become deformed. If It allows Its weight to exercise a pressure
in an uneven way. leaning always to one side, It will curve the spinal
column very markedly. This aeroimauon may. nowever, oe recuneu
by proper pressure brought about by a stiff brace or In some other
way. u, men, in toe courso oi a isw years wo too uin a uuuj uaj
k. m fi ail Kir iriicht nraatira ran vn not understand hnw enormous
IO uiiniiimv vf J -v -
.... . . mnm mrram asm Krln ahntlt VTAfll rhltlffflxt
DrvvoUiq oaci kev iui aaw .au uiifg o v a -
- . . . . . . . i.u UfU V - I 1 ,
wn' i tnen, is xnis greai xorce wiiu wmuu wo uovo iw uw.
Is the resistance or the water. This is an enormous force..
Having? at nnr dianonttlon the living DUVStiC
--. ..4 W 0-.M mnJ.lKnn IniM It Itt TlArPRfffl.rV
to detail the conditions In which the latter acts upon
ine lormerr ine iwo esennai quamiea duiu uotooom;
and sufficient to obtain fish with a plastic nature
are that It has the power of displacing rapidly, ana
that It ha the same density as the water.. All the fish
properly formed weign, we may say, voiurae ior
volume, at much as the water, sometimes a little more;
sometimes a little lcsa.
Thore creatures which are still heavier, ana ai
the same time less rapid, are not modelled In the Ash
at all, but Into annelids and crustaceans. Other crea
tures still heavier ana at tne same ume sun iwr
become molluscs, and others that do not move at all
fix themselver on the rocks or bury tnemseives in we
bottom and are modelled accordingly.
in ib explains nowu is mat aunougu iu i !.
ance of the water Is always the same It does not al
ways produce the same effects nor act In the same
mA fnv tlil, nnun all tha aiinatle creatures.
though 'equally plastle, hut being of different weights
and or dltlerent speea, are noi at an una ttu win.
This being wen unaerstooa, it is easy io see now in.
water may model a -plastic creature that Is rapid and
equally dense, that is, weighing Just about as much
!. . , i it.-, .him ra mm in
as III" equal vuiuwa ui kiwi. u..,
eneriment so as to obtain the same conditions under
which the fish swim?
In order to have a body as a model which win re
plastlo I use a rubber bag about seven Inches long
and an Inch and a third In thickness. This must be
f tha rianiltv nf tha watar. and I fill this with some
oil so as to get the exact equal volume. I attach this
to a thread ao as to draw it tnrouga toe waur. i uu
have only to look at it as the speed has Increased, and
yon will see now tne waicr presses upon iu u.
When going very slowly, If the sack was laid flat In
the beginning it stays flat, only turning on Its axis. It
drawn more rapidly the front remains at the horizontal
and the back becomes vertical If the speed be still
more Increased the number of inversions morasses,
and we can count three, live, seven or more successively
horrUontat and vertical. ......
The ripples of tha water flee to the back to give
place to the body which 1s penetrating it. In the
presence of the obstacle which the form of the sack
oppwses to their flight they take on an appearance
which 4s repeated with a certain rythm. a vibration,
as we call it. The vibration of the water models the
soft sack, and this shows us how It works en the fish.
It Is a very plain application of one of tha moet beauti
ful theorems of physics discovered by Lord Kelvin on
the vibratory transformation of a ripple la the pres.
ence of an obstacle, ....... , a
Tha power of swimming in the fish when eoupled
with its weight and density Is the actual explanation
of all the modifications which come about in the re
cesses of the sea. The monsters of the deep are the
poor swimmers who have barely escaped la many In
stances becoming crustaceans and loo log the character
of ash aiiogetner.
One of the Eubbei
Models Made by
Professor
Houssay in His
Remarkable
Experiments Upon
Fish.
- '" fi 1"-
A Fish Below It the Model Which
Counterfeits All Its Movements.
r .
K(fekBa----- wkaMessAeseMkSBBBftttMlje t-1 f a
Copxrlfht, 1114, y the Blar Company.Ortat PrtUls Rlf hts Ittssrvei,
Another Weird Misshapen Desiien of the Deep Seas WhofJ
Uglbess Is the Result of Water Pressure,