U li f?V,' T uwr-uuiwuiM, tne famous . fT"18-' V '
, - I i'., V ator of fashions in the world, 4. ( , -
jft, sJ7lLVi writes each week the fashion ar- ' ?5 ' . (
I tide -for this newspaper, pre- V,
1 1 ;, , "' 1 I r senting all that is newest and best $ tfV, V- f'lk
1 -if 'ip1 in style, for well-dreed women. ' - V ! 1".
f ' ' I'l Duff-Gordon's Paris es- fe"'- . ' V
CJ5-Vf F tablishment brings her into close vC' V f .S 'V i4 ' AA
3"-v';-r't toucb with that centre of fashion. . ,t f ' V
tM lilt . y;:V aCViA
: ;-"fir ..-i-v ' p
The New Black and Whites, tk
Plain New Stripes and the
Very Gorgeous New ,
Linings Described by Lady
Duff-Gordon.
Natural Pongee with the New
Black and White Silk Lin.
ing lln This Case with
Orange Added.
By Lady Duff-Gordon.
I WONDER if the present tendency for
the brilliant linings and the more or
less sombre garb of to-day can be
taken as a forecast of brighter times in the
future. So many of our street costumes
to-day are of grays, drabs, and more often
black. But open a coat, turn back a
drapery, or lift a flounce and you will
find yourself faced with the most brilliant
of "silver" linings that has ever glad
dened the eye.
In outer dress the most attractive ef
fects can be got with Just black and white,
and it is only a question of balance of
these two colors that makes them more or
less startling.
I give you this week a really interesting
costume with a coat in black and white.
The skirt is a striped effect and reminds
one of the zebra more than anything else
I can think of for the moment, so curious
are the irregular lines caused by the
pleating and draping of the skirt, which,
you will see, is amply full at the feet. The
coat is of white and lined with the same
material of black and white stripes which
also borders a little muslin blouse with
frilled neck and cuffs. A little black and
white bonnet is worn with this, and the
last note is again repeated in the shoes
and gloves, which are white with black
markings.
Another coat and skirt, this time of
gray gabardine, Is faced and bloused with
this striking black and white effect. The
skirt in this case is composed of tour
enormous box pleats that are brought into
a close-fitting yoke at the top. The coat
Is flared with a broad cuff and a large
collar, all of the palest gray gabardine and
depending entirely on the black and
white flowered silk for its decoration.
This silk is to be found In the lining of
the box pleats, the facing of the coat and
the blouse, which is strapped with the
same gabardine as the suit itself.
Another is a natural pongee costume
which to all intents is plain in color from
the head down, so long as the coat remains
closed, but, hey, pregto! the coat Is open,
one sees a radiant lining of orange, black
and maure, while the dress from below
the waist up Is composed of orange chiffon,
piped and buttoned with black and white.
A little black hat with an orange quill
completes the scheme.
For the last I have a violet coat of faced
cloth worn over a printed chiffon gown of
the softest gray blue, with pipings of gray.
The front is open to the knees, showing a
petticoat of Swiss embroidery. A double
row of buttons and the belt are of black
and white to match the lining and the little
vest worn inside the front of the coat. A
black hat trimmed with gardenias is worn
with this.
The sebra effects are produced easily by
Gray
Gabar
dine, with
Black
and
White
Silk
Lining.
"Lucile"
Model.
Gardeners Ought to
Protect Toads
MOST persons are unaware of the great value of
the toad.
We have heard of the gardeners of some
of the European countries purchasing toads for their
flower and vegetable gardens from men and boys who
catch them throughout rural sections, but the Idea of
breeding and protecting thes homely creatures In our
own land, and possibly supporting toad farms, and
organizing toad protective associations, seems rather
odd to ns, but the time has arrived when we simply
must take our hats off and actually toady to the toad.
, The time will come when, along with certain snakes
which are known to be of great value to our farmers
ind gardeners, the toad will be given every protec
tion needed to maintain Its value as a wonderful de
stroyer of almost every type of Insect that Is Injur
ious to our gTeat variety of crops.
One great advantage of the toad Is the fact that
the family is divided into several groups, Including
thoH living in trees as well as upon the ground. The
different types are in position to combat many kinds
of ppsts, under widely varylug conditions. A number
of expert axrlculturlstg are now making our native
tnuils a cartful study and eiprlmentlng fully to de
termine the varieties bst adapted to our needs. Toads
found in different countries are being Imported and
r blng allowed to multiply tiv determine their value
compared to the value of those found la this
country.
t v vi if
. t-r W.y -i : ilk ;i ' i 11
vv ; ! 1 11-
- . l . i ' y
the colors this season in vogue. Black and
white combine to form them. Blue and
whtte appear in them, and the regal
looking purple, combined with silver-colored
stripes that look white in all but the
revealing sunshine. Contrast seems to be
the keynote of the Spring costume.
This taste has a psychological source.
In time of war wo think of war, and our
thoughts take on its character. They are
bold, definite, clear cut in outline. Our
thoughts are great, crashing chords. Ab
sent from them are deli
cate nuances, tender Mend
ings. These thoughts are
reflected in our speech.
And in our clothes. There
will be this season few of
the pastel shades, the
dovelike tones in color,
that are eeen in time of
peace. And they will be
worn by persons little af
fected by their surround
ings and the world at
mosphere. The zebra ' effects are
carried into evening cos
tumes. Shunned by them
in their extreme effects by
the short, stout woman,
they are welcomed by the
tall, slender one. More
over the inventive woman
and adaptable woman who
is open to the chargo of being "pudgy" can
Introduce a bit of the zebra effect in a
touch of trimming of her gown or in her
scarf enough, I heard a bright one say, "to
let people know we know it is the mode."
A charming evening gown of clotti of
silver, with raised stripes of black satin,
was regally worn by a countess from the
Faubourg Saint Germain at a recent ball
r the relief of French soldiers. Simpler
Aries, as crepe de chines and chiffons,
are being exquisitely fashioned In cross
stripes of contrasting
colors. This may be
said to be the reign of
King Zebra.
Contrast is notice
able even in the less
striking Spring cos
tumes. In the smart
costumethere must be
sounded a note of con
trast. For example,
on the gown of white
voile, whose Irregular
folds are edged with
narrow bands of
white satin, there Is a
row of tiny black
buttons i defining the
front With it is worn
a belt of black and
white ribbon. A long
military coat is of
black faille.
A suit of sand-colored taffeta h, ,
skirt that looks scant, but being jZ
with deep inset plaits in front and
sides furnishes generous walking fnajj
A broad belt fastened in front mj 5
tached to the skirt is of the same nwJ,
The coat, of medium length, has ZiS
skirt, and broad revers of the taffeta !2!
over a gay lining of red and broira w
cade. The loose blouse is of the Mm.!S
with which the coat is lined, and h
ished with a rolling collar. A small tok
of sand-colored straw, Bauctly ttlmmS
with two red wings, adds to the sm
audacity of the costume. -i
Hats more brilliant than at any teun
I remember display zebra effects. S
close-fitting turbans or the mS
brimmed sailors are daringly mads S
stripes. Stripes in black and whits I
blue and white, in orange and white S
green and white, and even in red ii
white. Although I believe that tt
vogue will be briefer than that ot tti
gowns. A zebra gown, or suit, U M(k
clous, but may be rich and, if well malt
lend distinction to the wearer. But U
wearer must have great personal dlBtint.
tion to be able to "carry oft" a sebra ait
Indeed, it requires the courage ot th
leader of a cavalry charge or the beauti
of a Hebe to essay one of them.
Heroism is shown, too, in the weartu
of the cranial colors of this season. Bin
hats are always trying. Yet a hat of fti
brightest blue, adorned with cherries d
the reddest, surmounts determined taw
of those who will wear the mode or die,
Assuredly heroism is in the air.
The hats shown on this page are Jul
ionable, yet not extreme. Small turbau,
wide-crowned, marrow-brimmed lailon
and small hats with soft crowns and roll
ing brims are sure of popularity. Butal
ways is the note of contrast apparent
The red hat (and there will be many of
these) may have a bunch of yellow Hov
ers, un tne black hat Inevitable
fames a flower of red, a quill of yel
low, or at least a chou or pompon ol
white.
Contrast is the keynote, and the
stripe is king ot the Spring seasof
of 1915.
Black
Silk.
"Zebra Costume of
and White Striped
The Coat Lined with the
Same Striped Silk and
Blouse of Plain Mus
lin "Lucfle"
Model
7wm Q V
J1S V
io- inr.''i'.',- '
. . ?"vt nhi.
The most general species Is the com
mon toad, of which there are four varieties
to be found aluiost over the entire coun
try. These are commonly seen in gardens
sod about the dooryards after sunset.
Besides the common toad there are many
varieties that are rare. This is especially
tuo case with the tree toads, some of which
ru so colored as to be difficult to see, as
'bey resemble the bark and moss upon'
which they crouch. The tree toad is.
smaller than the ground variety, and a
very pronounced vocal ssc distinguishes
the male. The swamp tree toad, the
cricket toad and the gray tree toad are the
most 'frequently seen. The latter are so
numerous in msny locations, especially In
the great fruit belts of the Central and
Eastern States, that their
chirpings resemble the sound
of hundreds of slelghbells.
They feed upon Insects be
tween the hours of sunset
and sunrise.
The cricket toad prevails
along the Atlantic States, as
well as westward to the
Mississippi. The swamp tree toad ranges
over territory east ot the Rockies as far
south as Texas.
Anderson's tree toad Is so seldom seen
that 1U real territory Is a matter ot doubt
It la beautifully colored, with pea-green
back and purple stripes, the abdomen being
of a pinkish White. Pickering's tree toad
resembles the bark, moss and lichens so
closely as to render It almost Invisible
even a few feet distant. .
If the estimate made upon the amount
saved by a single consumption of in
sects In a year is approximately true
regarding vegolatlon In general, the esti
mate would be greater whnre curtain val
uable crops are grown, and as there Is a
tendency to conservation of our natural
resources, etc, the yearly loss to farmers
by Insect pests runs into
millions, despite the leg
islative efforts at com
pulsory spraying.
, An eminent authority,
connected with the agri
cultural department of
one ot the leading East- '
era States, says: ,
"Toads, especially, are rapidly coming
to have a recognized value in the pro
tection of fields and gardens. I am glad
to say that the propagation of them la
this country la already beginning. I may
say that I have always maintained that
toad raising was both, practical and profit
able, while frog-raising was neither. All
one has to -lo to raise toads is to provide
puddles of water for them during the
breeding season, In April, May and June.
They will take care of themselves, and
multiply rapidly If protected. Lizards and
copperheads are fond of Insects, as also
are land turtles. -One of the latter wilt
eat literally a handful of June bugs with
out showing a sign ot a dlmlnlauing appetite."
t ' ' 1,
Cray Blue Chiffon Dress, with
New Black and White
Coat "Lucile" Model
J
1
Copyright, 118. by the Bur Company. Great 8jrUJrw,,T;