SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1917
-O" v
Comical. ltl(. y T JkClara llMipfr tfMlciU.i
PARIS CLOTHES ACCENTUATE THE LEAD PENCIL SILHOUETTE
THE ASHEVILLE TBIES.
They Do Not Show the Bus
tle or the Pull-Back Skirt
But America Presents
This as Her Silhouette for
the Coming Season Ex
perts Say That the Three
Quarter Coat Will Have
Full Sway in the Autumn
and the Short Coat Sub
stituted After Christmas.
Beau Brummcl and Rob
espierre Inspired Two of
the New Models. Eve-
- ning gowns Are Long
Girdles become Corslets,
and Sashes Dominate the
Color Scheme.
JET us again come down to the plain
facts of fashions). New clothes are
passing before the eyes as quickly as
a vital and dramatic series of motion
pictures.
One has only sufficient mental vision
to catch at the 'leading points as they
swirl by These things will not go
Into oblivion. . They will return as do
the moving films; but the world of
women -wants to get at the gist of the
movement at this moment.
The -whole continent of women Is
buying autumn clothes. -Those who
preached economy, suspension of fash
ions, standardized uniforms for wom
en, the turning of woman buyers in
the Industry of apparel Into the work
of war relief, must feel that they have
preached in vain.
Naturally, there was a germ of truth
In -what they said. Women do spend
too much on clothes in isolated seg
ments of society, and the working
woman probably spends more on
frocks. This led to a lack of saving
by the wage earner and an inflation
of prices by the exclusive dressmaker
who caters to the rich and careless;
but these commercial episodes are part
and parcel of the web out of which
Life Is woven. The girl who works
usually does so because she can have
better clothes to wear than the poverty
of her home life affords, and with
better clothes rhe has a better out
look on life, a more cheerful vision of
hardships. Therefore, if she works,
she has a right to spend her money in
the way that gives her pleasure and
profit. A good array of sensible clothes
bought at small prices takes the drab
tone out of life.
One cannot deal so leniently with
the rich and careless women who pay!
stupendous pi-ices for clothes under
somo false idea that they are petting I
what is exclusive or what is impos- '
sible elsewhere. In truth, they are i
merely catering to an inflation of val-
ties. They are bolstering up the for- i
tunes of those who deal in fancy prices :
with very little back of them except I
the necessity to pay tremendous rents j
and salaries. If the gowns were ex- !
elusive to the rich and careless wom
en, there would be some solid founda
tion behind the price, but we all know
that, with few exceptions, every
French model and nil successful
American models are copied by the
hundreds, and that no woman Is sure
of an exclusive style unless she has it
FROCK WITH WRAPPED WAISTLINE
s I ill
It is of heavy Tokay -repc trim
nuttons. me unilri'-slip is very n,r
waist mid tics at the buck.
made and designed In her own w
room.
ork-
CAPE AND STOLE COMBINED
'
It ia of Hndaon wal and 'opomum, Is straight In front and forma a. rip
i t !tng cape In back. The sleeves are cat In ouo with the back and finished
with, 'opossum tails.
med with dull brown silk braid nnd
row, and the bodice, wraps ubout the
As the Fashions Go.
The reel of clothes that is running
off quickly before the eyes of every
woman is not nearly so confusing if
one. brings to bear upon it a'weli
adjusted judgment.
The first impression one has is that
the vital changes are few, but this im
pression gives way after a day or two
to the feeling that the changes, what
ever they are, are very Important.
The majority of women look at new
clothes in the light of a contrast to
old ones. There are few women so
wealthy that they do not say when
they see the Influx of new seasonal
fashions, "If that is to be the style,
I can wear my blue gown of iast
year."
There will be a hundred or more
remarks like this made by the women
who view the clothes of the hour.
France has not changed her silhouette
as much as America has. She pro
duced the lead-pencil figure late last
spring, but America takes it up this
October, with an enthusiasm that is
usually slven to what is original,
A few of the American designer
have exaggerated the French idea.
There have been certain gowns sent
out by a well-known house and exten
sively copied by those who deal with
the trade over the country, which put
a woman's figure back to where It
was in 1880. The skirt is pulled about
the figure until movement Is actually
Impeded. It has all the symptoms of
the famous pull-back skirt to which
the bustle was attached. That ap
pendage Is also in fashion, but imulo
so inconspicuous that it cannot of
fend even the most conservative taste.
Odd as it mfey sound, many of these
pull-back skirts are longer than any
thing we have ' had for four years.
They have to be of decent length, for
their tendency to lift at the back and
pull across the knees would bring the
front hem higher than the law al
lows. It Is mockery to refer to a law In
dress, probably. In the light of 'what
we have seen during the last two
years, for what the French call "a
souvenir of a skirt and a regret of a
bodice" has been combined to make
the average woman s costume.
However, as one reviews the skirts
of the moment, there Is definite rea
son to believe that the figure will
look much as It did last spring. Trim
ming if lifted from skirts; the hem
is often ten Inches from the ground.
Instead of eight; the fullness at the
waistline has almost vanished; the
fastening at the front or aide is not
tolerated, put all of these features!
of fashion are merely accentuations:
of an accepted style. The designers
have cut down to the bone, as it were,
and given us all In the way of grace,
cleverness and beauty after they sac
rificed every inch of material that
might have been superfluous.
The Tunic Persists,
That medieval chemise frock that
came in with such a ringing of bells
and blowing of trumpets has decided
that It will continue to be a welcome
factor in fashions. There are a good
many women who are tired of it, as
we are not proof against that weari
ness that comes from seeing one thing
multiplied through every phase of our
existence, and it has not been human
ly possible to escape tunics since they
made their appearance.
There were not as many of these
gowns put out by the American de
signers In the early trade of the sea
son as by the French, who evidently
are not in the least tired of the one
garment. They have repeated it in
pleasing ways. They make it In thin
and in thick fabrics; they offer it ns
a coat, on an evening gown and as an
elongated blouse for the house. The
entire movement of French clothes
shows this tunic coming in and out
of the film."
I'ossJbly, the one new feature that
is most noticeable about it is the
slashing at the sides. The house of
Doeulllet Is credited with having
started this movement. It looks well
and it is part of the universal tend
ency in clothes to present panels from
waist to ankles. There is an epi
demic of these panels. They are put
by every tailor and dressmaker where
they do the most good or the most
harm. They are Egyptian or, as some
critic said, mid-McKinley. - They have
allure and they have moat evil possi
bilities of ugliness.
The selection of the good and the
avoidance of the bad in this move
ment of dress is up to the individual.
The part of the reporter is to say
tide to go Into full detail;- but let
every woman see above them a dan
ger signal.
The question of a belt on . these
tunics Is another matter of Impor
tance. One may call the waist drap
ery an accessory to the gown, but the
artist and the expert dressmaker con
cede the fact that it is the kind of
trifle that makes or mars the, whole.
It Is well that every woman remem
bers this truth during the remainder
of this season. ' She will find., as the
months follow each other, that it will
take all her ingenuity to deal with
the extraordinary influx of belts, gir
dles, sashes and waist drupery of
pleasant and sinister kinds.
There are belts on some of the new
coat suits which are almost corslets,
and an accessory of this type on the
wrong figure would turn a good look
ing woman into a caricature.
There is a nest of belt, four or five
of them, linked together by some
common cord at the side and back
and disposing themselves over the en
tire middle of the body, i
There are actual corslets of flori
ated jet, of Egyptian tissue worked in
turquoise and jet beads, of black silk
braid on a satin or serge foundation,
and these reach from the bust to the
point of the hips, with the end ad
justed by hooks and eyes or by rows
of cloth-covered buttons.
These things are called girdles.
They really make the bodice. Some
evening gowns are built up around
such a girdle. It will be a fanciful
jet figures on a cloth of silver foun
dation, for instance, and the top,
which Is high in the back and has
long, floating sleeves caught at the
wrist, will be of silver nnd black
tulle; the skirt will be made from two
broad panels of superb black and sil
ver brocade, falling over a short skirt
of silver and black tulle.
The Short or the Lour Coat?
The skirt part of every street cos
tume is settled. Whether It carries a
short or a long coat - or whether It
has its own bodice and depends upon
LONG WAISTCOAT OF THE REVOLUTION
VICTORIAN EVENING COAT
It Is of nmcthyst Trivet, with deep, light yoke bordored with stone mar
ten, nigh collar is lined with blue satin. Cuffs of fur. The gown bcuculh
Is of cream malincs lice with front and back panels of blue satin.
that panels are ubiquitous and that
tho tunic is slashed.
A woman with large hips cannot af
ford to go in for Indiscriminate slash
ing below the waist. She should al
ways bear In mind the fact that an
open line at the sides shows the curve
of her hips where It Is most percepti
ble and often gives her a rotund look
that could be easily concealed by an
other kind of drapery.
The public, found this out last
spring, when It became fashionable
to wear half-length coat that were
slashed at the sides. Even slim wom
en took on curves that were objec
tionable in the light of the accepted
silhouette. If one is flattened back
and front, the figure must really be
of the proportions of a planked shad
In or4er to keep from bulging out be
low the waist at the sides.' It is far
better to put the panels' over the hips
and given the open line in front and
back. v
It would take a chapter on dress to
describe the evils of panels, and one
has not the apace In a newspaper ar-
a top coat for warmth, It Is short and
scanty. There is the one exception, as
I have said, of the pull back skirt
with its drappery at the end of the
spine.
The coat, however. Is puzzling the
tailors as well as the public. France,
evidently, -could not make up her
mind to put all her chances for suc
cess Into one throw of the dice, so
she made Russian tunics slashed at
the side and called them coats; then
she built a three-quarter coat with
the high waistline of the Directoire
and the immense postilion cape col
lar that was worn during the revolu
tion. Even then she was not sure of
herself, so .she thre .. in a dozen or
more short coats.
The verdict of those who. deal In
great numbers of coat suits Is that
the three-quarter length will be ac
cepted In the beginning of the sea
son and the short coat will come into
its own after Christmas. There you
age. You may take your choice and
pay out four money, but you may re
gret one and lese the other before
the actual cold weather sets In, 'Twas
I"
4ft
It, Is shown in a walking suit of navy blue broadcloth with hem on
cont and skirt, turned up to form a cuff. The waistcoat Is fastened with u,
lai'RO silver button. Tim postilion collar of fur mulches the muff.
ever thus with fashions In October!
The short coats ripple at the hem
and sag a bit above an extra wide,
soft patent leather belt.
In confrast to these is the snugly
fitting zouave jacket of the French
Algerian forces, and as a third choice
there is the short, riding habit coat
which has come into high favor dur
ing tho lust two weeks, You know it
well; it is the kind of coat that looks
best on the American figure. It has
natural lines, without any exaggera
tion. Its sleeves are long and almost
tight. It has revers that are part of
a neat, turnover collar, nnd a row of
buttons In front. The edges are
bound with narrow silk braid nnd
there is usually a pocket below the
hips. It is a coat that conies in and
out of the fashions, but can always
bo worn by any woman who wishes
constantly to appear well dressed.
There Is another kind of coat which
has almost the bravado of the Ileau
I'.rummel one. It is cut bn the Same
lines and depends for its grandeur on
muslin ruffles or a gay waistcoat.
L a dies 9 Ta iloring
Years of practical experience enables us to bid for your
business knowing that we can satisfy you in a high-grade
Tailored garment
Agents for the famous Blltmore Homespun, Call and
ee these and other new Fall fabrics.
LOGAN & MOORE
"Tailors to Ladies and Gentlemen."
Next Door to Southern Ticket Office, Phone 797.
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Liberty Bond Shopping
Early
HENDERSON YOUR JEWELER
52PattonAve. Near Fost Office