j m .-- .
PAGE TT3
THE ASHEVILLE TBIES.
SUNDAY, NOV. 11, 1917
BY
IJy" ' " i 1 t -i " 1 , 1 1 -. . . 1 ,11 .. i, , ... -. 1 1 1 iT
SOME MODERN GOWNS SUGGESTED BY FAMOUS OPERATIC ROLES
I 1
Aid a, Amneris, Natoma,
Lakme and Thais were the
inspiration for American
elothes to be worn in the
ceremonial hours ; Fringes
made from slashed fabrics
have been adopted as the
ornament of the hour.
Elimination of buttons
and hooks and eyes and in
troduction of gowns that
slip over the head and are
tied at the waist have
given joy, comfort and in
terest. .
A muwlaniy man made the state
ment the other day that if women
fojlow the fashion? of this Autumn,
they will look a though thay "ere
taking leading roles in well known
operas. '
. AiJa, Annerls, Natoma, Lakme
Melisande and Thuis are the oper
atic characters on which t lie French
designers niuit have based their
work the season.
Natoma is suggested by the dis
tinctly Indian clothing that has come
from the great houses abroad and
copied and iauuehed in all the houses
here.
Lakme is suggested by the Oriental
clothing with is ancient coloring, its
dangling beads and its glistening
tissues. ,
Thais is suggested in the draping
of the figure by folds of soft material,
such as crepe and satin, the drapery
winding around the body and reveal
ing every curve and line without con
fining the muscles.
Alda has her prototypes today in
thee savage, primitive clothes, th
brilliant blue and green necklaces,
the barbaric armbands above tho el
bow and the uneven,, fringed hem of
the skirt.
Amneris is seen in the ballroom and
at the dinner table in all the splendor
of her Egyptian finery, her heavy,
banded head, the large waistline and
the sinuous drapery about the hips,
to say nothing of the addition of a
gorgeous peacock feather fan.
It was a startling suggestion, this
one made by a man concerning the
. lodern woman dressed for an opera
role, and the critic of clothes saw in
it a truth that was both amusing and
interesting.
Glancing over the moving films of
of clothes that are passing the eye
today, one feels in the light of this
new fact, as though one might be in
the salons of Marie Muelle of Paris,
the greatest theatrical eostumer in
the world. '-Through her rooms flash
all the singers of the-, wo; id. Her
knowledge of operatic coFtumery, her.
superb .handling of colors her ingenu
ity in carrying out the best artistic
suggestions to be found in the great
museums and nicture naileries of
frano a tvMI l.-nwn in f,U thrtu,J
who live in the musical world
LEOPARD MEETS
MUSKRAT
PURITAN FROCK IN DLACK AND WHITE
!,t t, .At
- ;M0smmi wMmm
''''
: : tfl vJfl lis
and the sleeves hang Infringes about
the hand below a tight band that
holds them in at the wrist.
If you are an economical woman
and want to provide the trimming for
your clothe in your own sewing,
room, just get a pair of sharp scis
sors and amuse yourself as childreq
do on wet days In the nursery, by
clipping pieces of fabric into fring.
The children may do it for you in a
spirit of sport, and the task will keep
them quiet for the afternoon while
you prepare the rest of the gown as
a setting for these yards of fringe.
Frocks S11J Over lio Tlwid.
Everything that was invented in
clothes this year had a reason. Skirts
were narrow because the French gov
ernment limited the use of cloth to
five metres. They were minus fast
eners because these accessories were
difficult to get and wartime activi
ties demanded a speedy method of
dressing; so frocks were mads to go
over the head and tie around the
body in a primitive fashion.
Certain dyes were exploited because
there-were no others to be rmd.
Fringed fabrics .vrotfi- Introduced be
oaused applied ornamentation was
costly and the supply was vastly de
creased from that of former .days.
Immense top coats with inter-linings
wore made by the dozens -because
the. French women were compelled
clothes intently and with an inside
knowledge of scarcity of certain ma
terials, prophesied that the near fu
ture would bring about women's
clothes that were fashioned to be ad
Justed without fasteners. France
sent up some trial ballons in gowns
that were cut in two pieces and tied
around the hips by a sash that was a
bit of the material of the front width
and evidently, these trial balloons
proved that the air was safe for the
sending out of dozen of such frocks.
Tho Americans have accepted them
In high glee. It is a novelty that
tickles the mind of the novelty-hunting
American women. When you see
a group of fashionable dressed wom
en eagerly talking and gesticulating
pulling out pieces of a frock here and
there and turing themselves around
as on a pivot, you will realize that
they are each explaining to the other
how the frock is adjusted without a
hook nnd eye, without a button and
without a loop.
The new coat suits have caught the
fever, and somp of the best are ad
justed with merely a loop of military
braid run through a buttonholo and
tied back on itself.
The smartest afternoon gowns have
large buttonholes from neck to waist,
through which are. run pieces of braid
or plcot-edged ribbon tying the -two
fronts together.
DURABLE COAT FOR TIIE EVENING
It Is in blnck velvet, with nnder-blone and pnncl In skirt of white
broad cloth. It is made without sleeves and held by a belt that slopes down
ward at the back. The white moussciiiic collar lias a bright blue velvet
cravat.
1
Muell's clothes represent the ages of cock tails, of red, purple, green and
the world. they are colorful and
superb symbols of every powerful
race that hns passed over the planet.
But what has the story of Muells
rooms to do with modern clothes.
vou ask. The answer is that you
could find the Inspiration for every
gown you wear today in those salons,
if you looked with an eye trained to
detail and accurate observation.
Tho Dangling of Fringes
Modern clothes, which means the
elothes for this Autumn and Winter,
are said to be simple. We all know
they are not Inexpensive. And yet
even with their simplicity, there are
so many barbaric and exolt sugges
tions that they give a good deal of de
light to anyone who studies clothes
black ostrich fenthers, of Chinese
sandalwood, of Egyptian fronds, of
colored aigrettes.
Mind you, every one of these fash
ions is in evidence wherever one goes
among well dressed women, and yet
we assert that the season is dedi
cated to simplicity. It is In a fashion,
but we must learn to place simplicity
on a pedestal that it has rearely oc
cupied. It would be interesting to find out
how many miles of fringes have been
used for the Winter clothes. To go
into detail a bit; evening gowns are
made of panels or straight widths
of transparrent materials which have
fringes of gold bends or metal at the
hem; widely flowing sleeves for af-
from the point of view of color and ternoon and evening frocks have the
personality, i rather than from price
and serviceability.
When, for instance, have we had a
season as full of fringes as now?
When have wa had a Winter in which
six floating panels of silk were
weighted down with Indian beads to
half conceal a pair of Oriental
trousers that look as though they
same kind of fringe at their lower
edges or another kind made of Jet
beads or silken floss.
Wide girdles have deep metallic
fringe for eight Inches across the
front and back, or they concentrate
the fringe over each hip and let it
fall to the knees In Irregular stranrt i.
A woolen frock or a cloth coat suit
were elongated envelope chemises, or will have a girdle of velvet of In-
Callot make a coat of both thena
hides, and it sottm for the street ami
th motor. The cap M arranged to
what the young girls irrevently calls
her "teddy bears."
When have we ever worn the hat
made famous In our Indian countries
of America, with its peaked crown
soft brim and colored cords?
Since when have conservative wom
made out of a single width or mater
ial that Is caught at one shoulder,
draped across tho bnck, wound
around the hips, caught again above
the knee and left to fall on thn floor
in folds that cling to the ankle T This
Is Thais and the Tanagras,
Rlnce when hsve conservative fom
en gone about In the evening with a
gold band on one ankle and a broad
gold bund on the upper arm? And
when have women walked the Htrents
In the morning and afternoon with
Indian and Chinese chains dangling
from their mocks?
How long has It been since an as
semblage of women at thn theater
gave one a yivld impression of a
jungle full of troploal birds flashing
their long tails and wings In the- air
match with Ita leopard skin crown a, suggestion which Is given by the
uad ita nptornad mnskrat brim, myriad of great fans mads of pea
rt inn beads that drops slightly in front
and is finished with a flat pouch of
gay embroidery from which long
silken tassels and fringes drop.
On the hats that the milliners turn
out, the crown band Is finished with
fringe at its lower edge, or reserving
its simplicity until It gets to the side
of the hut, It breaks out Into a,
waterfall of fringes that reach to
the outer edge of the brim.
Feathers are arranged to look like
fringes, Monkey fur and skunk are
slashed and combed and brushed un
till they form fringes and the peltry
Is applied to evening or afternoon
gowns of chiffon and Georgette crepe
The furriers take rows of tiny tails
and make fringes of them for the
edges of the preat Victorian shoulder
scarfs which rotaln their place In
fashion,
Rtreet suits made of khaki colored
velours have Immense, high Colors of
the days of the Revolution, and these
are slushed at the edges with a pair
of sharp solssers, to fall into deep
fringe over the shoulders, The girdle
Is subjected to the same treatment
RESTAURANT HAT WINTER NIGHTS
It is of deep pnrplo velvet, Willi long, pule yellow plume, falling over
brim at back.
A few of the American clothes use transparent material for the af
which were designed before the ternoon and ling, in order to
French silhouette was thoroughly no-1 show the slim little slip beneath. It
cepted, have taken their place a lit-Its not necessary thathe transparent
tin behind the front row of fashions ! fabric used over this slip should be
because thev look bunglesome. Here cut off to. correspon. It may bo
is the French silhouette as
dressed Americans have
A slim underskirt made in one piece parency, you get tho East Indian cf-
as the best to the shoulders and drop toithe in
nuoptod it: I step, nnd In that very alluring trans-
that runs from the collarbone nearly
to the ankle in a ulreet frock, and
from bust to within six Inches of the
ankle in an evening gown, ll la mere
ly the skeleton or the pnwn. but on
it are draped the lew remaining
yards of fabric that are allowed to
complete the work.
Therefore, It Is quite fashionable to
feet.
The statement may be taken as au
thoritative that whatever gown hns
a gathered drop skirt is out of the
fashion. You may gather the top ma
terial, but the lining must be slim
and cut closely to the lines of the
figure although it is not drawn in at
the waist.
It Is of olive green velvet, with collar, cuffs nnd tiem of Russian fitch.
It Is made on long, loose lines, like a enpo, with the front held Into the
figure by a hand that passes around the back.
to walk through a lack of taxicabs,
and the American women were sup
posed to have started on a system of
economy which would compel them
to-walk Instead of paying money for
taxis. '
Voluminous peltry was applied to
all costumes because of the Intense
cold on both continents last Winter
and because of the scarcity of coal
In Paris last January and the prom
ise of it In this country for this
Winter.
The Paris designers have Riven all
kinds of anecdotal reasons for their
gowns, and some of the American
dressmakers who ore not giving to
either narrative or reasons for their
clothes, are repeating the French
talk In nn Interesting way.
The most dominant fashion pro
duced this .Winter Is the garment that
slips en over the head and has pieces
of the material to tie It Into place.
This is quit as primitive as In days
when Melisande lived, loved ana died.
No women who likes puzzles and
who is fond of trying out novel
schemes, ran fail to be interested in
this game. She can wear a new
liown with a new kind of fastening
and crow over her neighbors as
though sho had taken in tho largest
subscription for the Liberty Loan. It
may develop Into a pastime, If the
Interest and excitement in this kind
of clothing keeps up, ,
At the moment of writing our gov
ernment has not put an embargo on
the amount of material to be used In
each gown. Germuny and France
have both done this, and those who
ore in Paris say that the French
dressmakers have taken the keen
est delight, In following the decree. A
quantity of material in a gown has
never appealed to a French designer
and with the government behind the
elimination of fabrics, each of the
gowns turned out this year shows
originality of conception and treat
ment in achieving an artistic result
OF course we wouldn't like to five you a false im
pression but you would almost think Christmas
would be here next week if you saw all the new
and lovely gift-goods we are receiving every day.
It has occurred to us that you
might like to be reminded to
"do your Christmas shop
ping early." If that be your
intention you will find many
reasons here for congratulate
ing yourself on your wisdom.
HENDERSON, Your Jeweler
52 Patton Ave. Near Post Office
A year ago the reporters who study with a very few metres of cloth.
1
Sot Teeth $5
Crowns $3 and $4
Bridge Work $5
DR. BAITY 8y2 BUtmore Ave.
Williams & Huffman Music House
THE BEST IN PIANOS
PHONE 2291.