THE ASHEVILLE TBIES.
SUNDAY, NOV. 25, 1917
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FRANCE PUTS A BUSTLE IN FRONT, AMERICA PUTS ONE BEHIND
PAGE TTFO.
Both of them are merely bits
of artistic drapery to break
the long, flat line of the fig
ure. The revolt against the
' three-quarter coat is evident,
and the short jacket with a
belt is preferred The cors
let bodice, which dips down
in front or In back, is
brought out by great design
ers, and it may be attached
to the pull-back skirt.
FRANCE puts a bustle In front of
a gown, anil America puts it in
the back. Such is the interest
ing struggle going on between
designers. .
Two men, one on this continent
and one of that, were responsible .for.
the-. 1917 bustle, ami it may be con
fidently asserted that no woman de
signer had ii part in. its creation or
development.
. It took the public just : six weeks
to level the fashion tu the common
place. It is becaitsc fit this public
. acceptance that the stle must be
dealt with generously by the re
porters of fashion who usually can
give only passing attention to each
new idea as it is. shot across the bat
tlefield of apparel. One 'man's idea
attracts attention, but that attention
1h deflected by every other titan's idea,
but when this individual is ntulti-.
plied a thousand times by buyers and
Kellers, by women who pretend to bo
fashionable and by thoso who care'
'nothing about the .'.word, then the
fashion becomes "the style," as we
term it In this country, which is our
nearest equivalent to the French
phrase, "C'est la mode."
: If you talk earnestly with those
who deal in exclusive clothes, you
will hear them say that the silhou
ette must chance and that it is more
than probable that the bustle will be
come more of a feature in the spring
among high class designers than it
Is today.
There is no disposition on the part
of the American woman to save in the
buying of clothes despite all the prop
aganda on this subject, and no mat
ter what conies biter. If the war con
tinues, the process of buying goes on
njorrily today,
- There Is not the slightest idea of a
return to fullness in frocks or coats.
There are two good reasons for this
announcement- a scarcity of material
in certain quarters and the wish of
the various governments of the world
for strict conservation, and also the
fact that we have been over surfeited
With fullness in clothes and the very
flight of such a gown gives us a
squeanlsh attack of sartorial indiges
tion. It is almost unbearable today
to look upon a looped; i nniered, be
fnlled or be-flounced costume. We
wort hoopskirts, even though they
were disguised under the name of the
farthingale, .until we felt ashamed to
look at a barrel, and it is not pos
sible for either the French or the
American designers to compel us to
turn our attention to such 'othes In
the Immediate future.
We want slimnefs, we 'm ,c our
very best in slimnere and w - re quite
willing to wear lss material than
since the Civil war. but we are tired
of tunics. Our trouble Is that we
don't want, a return to the small waist,
we will not have mure material put
Into our clothes and we Insist upon a
straight line from armholo to hips,
but something must be done with our
skirts if our palate for clothes is to
be tickled any further.
The dressmakers concur In this
wish. In fact, they further It, for
they are afraid of the approaching
January which opens the winter sea
son, when women are tired of their
autumn clothes and turn to their
chosen dressmakers for a whole new
supply of dashing frocks and suits.
Contrast In Hustles.
0nder the Influence of this Impa
tience and annoyance with a contin
uity of line in clothes, there Is no
reason why something approaching tho
SHIRTWAIST FOR
TAILORED SUIT
It Is of gray satin, fits tho hip out
side) of the skirt and Is embroidered
in silver threads. There arc two
pockets, Ute flaps lined with ' burnt
orango,
R1;
JU
COAT SUIT MADE
K4 T-&" CK
Knit of preen velvet and cashmere, with jacket that ha the upward
tilt nt the bark ami Is finished witli a higli-unistcd bi'It. Waistcoat of
hoi tin green suede. The gown is made for a ilcMvmlaiit of tho famous
Annie Laurie.
tio-back skirt and the bustle of 1870
S0 should not appear quite gradually
over the horizon for the better class
of January clot;- :,.
Yon know by this time, of course,
that the bustle is nothing more than
a hideous word for a bit of soft
drapery arranged to break the tight
i and often Inartistic line across the
figure at the end of the spine. This
i drapery is the paving grace on cer
tain types of broad, stout figures. It
may bo almost impossible to believe
that among this race of flat hipped.
I long limbed, slim chested, big waistod
; American women, which the last ten
years have produced, there are still
women, and many of them, who have
what Is called tho ancient figure. Of
course, it Is not the ancient figure at
all, for that is the new figure to
which all modernists aspire, but what
tho dressmakers mean by the phrase
is the 18(40 figure, which has never
been controlled or suppressed or even
treated with contempt by a certain
segment of American women. Chests
out, stomachs in, hips rounded and
waists tightened Is tho artificial figure
that was stamped upon three genera
tions of American women and has
not entirely died out. .
Strange to say, it Is what the men
still call a fine figure. These males
scream against the corruption of the
corset and all other lamentable meth
ods'1 of artificiality, and yet, they lift
their kIuhs and take off their hats to
the female figure that has not a nat
ural line In it.
There are other women who have
long since forgotten that they ever
hud a waist, but they cannot sub
merge tho flesh around their hips and
back and they look their worst in
chemise, tunic and sandwich gowns.
Therefore, the bustle drapery is for
them, If the dressmakers can handle
it in January in a manner that sug
gests novelty and achieves artistic re
milts, we shall probably see it In the
foremost fashions.
Now as to the French bustle it was
copied from the Directolrei period and
taken, like all the JDlrectoira clothe,
FOR ENGLISH BRIDE
I from the fashions of a century' before
j Napoleon aspired to control of
France. It" merely transposes the
.drapery as the Americans use it, from
the back to the front. Those who re
! member their history of tho Dircc
j toire period, know that the ladies of
the Directoire had a reason for this
drapery. It was a fantastio fashion
based by feminine bravado on some-
thing far more serious than clothes.
liulloz is the apostle of this bustle,
If you can cull the drapery In front
I by that name. Bulloz, through his
color schemes and his daring, has
assumed something of the widespread
authority in clothes that Paul l'olret
held, undisputed, until he went to
war. Bulloz dips nis hands deep into
fistory. pulls out anything his ringers
can grasp and puts all that he finds
Into i lie most modern of clothes. Two
years ago his efforts wore not taken
seriously In this country; today, all
the designers over here who wish to
cuter to an exclusive patronage, buy
freely of Utilloz. '
The hallmark of his work this sea
son Is that drapery across the front
,f the figure below the waist, i. !
deftly done. This drapery really sinks
Into tho surface of the skirt and drips
down into the cascades that run be
low the knees at each side.
The entire dreswmnking world of
Paris was a bit touched with this
fashion. AVhen you look at all the
new gowns that smart women ppear
In, and when you gaze at the top win
dows to try to choose the frock you
would liko to wear, you may notice
that a common thread of biea runs
through them all in this uplifted line
in the front of the skirt. .
This trick, as you remember, Is not
new to the twentieth century. It be
longs to the days out of which Goethe
created Faust, Throughout the six
teenth and seventeenth centuries,
there was a disposition to drag the
clothes up in the front and tie them
in looping and drapery below the
waistline by running a cord under the
fullness.
It looks as though a revival of this
fashion were upon us. The skirts are
dragged up so definitely in front
either by the cut of the hem or by the
placement of the lace or fur, that we
have become accustomed whitening for
that upward tilt In every new frock
that appears. The house of Callot
has always tilted the movement of her
skirt at Its hem upward in the mid
dle of the back or the middle of the
front, but this Is a different type of
fashion und it Is taken from more
primitive days.
Another interesting phase of fash-,
ion that is passing before our eyes at(
this time is a revolt against the uni
versal type of three quarter coat !
which the shops brought out in great
numbers and offered to the public
with such forceful persuasion earlier!
in the season.; There was no fullness
in this coat. It was a stralght-up-:
atid-down garment, cut lu three:
pieces, with a flat back and a single
breasted fastening.
. It is against this type of coat thnt
tho women have revolted. They do
not like the line. When they buy the
coat ready to wear, they insist that
the tailor cut off six inches from its
hem in order to bring it up to a
graceful length. I
It is not easy to say why there was
such a sharp distinction drawn be-
tween the exclusive and high priced ;
tailored suits and the majority of
those that sold from $30 to $35. The
rank and tile of -women could not give
$S5 for a suit, so that price in itself
justified .'.a coat of the newest type,
but. as a rule, it did not bring it. One
had to go to the tailors who charged
well over flOO to get the type of ,
AGAIN THE BLUE
5
V' I M"5'4r0!
T.anvin gown combining those two colors, wifh slashed skirt, floating
sleeves with tight wristbands and a fifteenth-cent ury neckline,
Jacket that was considered smart by
I'aria and was accepted by the well
dressed women in this country. We
took the cont that had been created
by Hernard In I'aris and shipped over
to this country early in August, and
we copied it by tho thousands. It is
one of these thousands that you are
asked to buy wherever -you enter a
shop now for your winter coat suit,
liut Bernard, mind you, covered up
half that long surface with a cuff hem
of handsome peltry and, therefore,
broke the line in a most agreeable
way. but the American shoos omit
the fur and hand you out the plain,'
unvarnished garment that has very
little style to it. Avoid it if you can,
Tho Incoming Cuirass Bodice.
The coat with a belt, a short, flat
peplum, two or three buttons in
front and a high collar that extends
to the chin, is the fashionable coat.
You may. not be able to wear it as It
stands, but you can endeavor to come
as near it as your, figure will permit.
It is apt to be too jaunty for certain
types of women, but any clever pair
of hands-can adjust it Jo the demanus
of the stout, broad or tall frame.
There is another change of silhou
ette that you must be ready to "re
ceive. There is a corslet or cuirass
bodice that belongs to all the ages
aiid is not the specific property of any
one epoch. Queen Elizabeth wore it
In an exaggerated form. It belongs
to symbolic Firitanla. It may be ad
vanced as the type of upper garment
that will act as a graceful substitute
for the sandwich tunic and will
prevent the designers from bringing
in a tightened waistline.
It is not possible for every woman
to swathe her street suits in belts, al
though she may look her best In this
kind of medieval drapery In the even
ing. Therefore, -there is a crying need
for a different kind of bodice from
those that are offered to us in profu
sion. This corset drops in a Slim,
straight line from shoulders to about
three inches below the waist at sides
and five inches below at the back or
the front.
Each designer uses her own pleas
ure in making the dip. Dreeoll, for
example, is the sponsor of the corslet
that dips downward In the back and
rides upward in the front, and Jenny
Is the sponsor of the corslet that does
just the opposite thing.
The woman who needs a bit of
waistline . defined, but who cannot
stand the swathing, Slavic girdle, has
been catered to by Chetuit, Jenny and
Poeuillet in the use of a tiny belt of
another fabric and sometimes of an-
AND THE GRAY
c
,i FT jl I'.-
I 1 1 Iff , ,
other color. 'This cravat bolt appears
in groups of two or three, or singly.
It does not pull the corslet In an inch
narrower than its own width; It
merely defines a large waistline.
Lanvln, and many others who took
up the American Indian motifs in
dress for this season, have advanced
a small, beaded belt which may be
bought at the shops and attached to
a corslet when .desired.
If the narrow, draped skirt takes
the tloce of the narrow straight skirt
in January, It may be easily attached
to this slim corslet that dips down
ward In front. Watch out for this
silhouette. The rumors concerning
It are so strong that It is foolish to
turn a deaf ear to them.
When a young widow proposes to
a man he Is so afraid people might
suspect it that ha pretends to have
done it himself. .
ERMINE CAPE
Tt Is short In front, loner In back
cross to the bock and tie, the long
INPOOR GOWN MADE
It l-of yellow embroidered Chinese erepe n chine with ostrich trim
ming. Tho skirt, which is draped like Persian trousers, tins ostrich feather
pompons. Sapphire blue 'sash w ith gold edge.
IT is always beet to buy your more expensive Christ
mas Gifts first, don't you think? Because you
want to use extra care and take plenty of time
for such selections. And after you are free of the
bigger part of the gift-getting, the less important pur.
chases are made without worry or confusion.
Every Christmas we serve dozens of
"last minute" shoppers whose satisf ac
tion would be much more assured if
they came earlier, and who are some
. times disappointed because their in- .
tended gifts have already been sold.
HENDERSON, Your Jeweler
52 Patton Ave. Near Post Office
FOR AFTERNOON
and liax ripple sleeves. The fronts
ends finished with ermine tails.
FOR TITLED BRIDE