SUNDAY, NOV. 25, 1917
THE ASHEVILLE TBIES.
PAGE THREE
Wartime Party Frocks and
Necessary Evening Wraps
New York. Nov. 2 4. Wartime and
parties! Tho two things sound very
far apart, litit, in the history of every j
war, preat stress Is laid upon the
brighter Bide of life. One reads of fray
parties Riven during our own Civil
war, and dances and routs played im
portant parts In the War of the Revolu
tion. The frocks were simple ones, to
be sure, but one can have just as good
a time in plain costumes, if they are
becoming.
Of course there are parties and
dances and teas now; great fun they
are, too, for it is rare indeed that one
does not see a uniform or two among
: S
The Evening Coat or Capo.
The evening roat belongs to the
same class as the little girl with a
curl, "when it is good it is very, very
good, and when it is bad it is horrid!"
It, too, must be simple, becoming and
-warm, and it is far wiser to choose a
good material and lining and do with
out trimming. Capes are enjoying
unite a vogue this year, from the one
shaped like an Italian oflleer's to the
cape coat. One novel rose-colored
cape I saw at the theater the 6ther
night had a collar, made entirely of
rose-colored satin roses! They were
placed In rows, one above the other,
until the effect was a large bouquet of
roses with the center tiower the lady's
bead. Satin is being used a great deal,
satin lined with satin, with a warm
inner lining of lambswool or canton
flannel. Many of the more sumptuous
wraps have huge collars and cuffs of
fur. Some have wide collars of lace,
copied, perhaps, from the pictures of
Vandyke. Velvets, duvetyns, and bro
cades are used for the more elaborate
affairs. Simple lines are always the
best, no matter how rich the material
chosch. Linings of contrasting colors
add to the picture; sometimes a won
derful lining is the only trimming
used.
Hip Question of (iloves. .'.
"Are we going to wear gloves this
year?" Yes, and no, in fact you may
do as you please. For very formal
THE WAR: WHAT AGAINST, WHAT FOR
By WILLIAM ENGLISH WALLING
With Draped Skirt and Tunic.
the somber attire of civilians. Some
are given for the Red Cross, or a pet
war charity: others in honor of visiting
soldiers and sailors. Part of the "bit"
of those who have to stay at home Is
light-heartedness, to try to even the
balajice in the world.
The League for Simple Dressing.
Women of good taste and patriotism
everywhere seem to have joined a
League for Simple Dressing. The only
bv-law seems to be Conservation of
Material, and the motto "Simplicity."
One of the most attractive of the sea-
sou's fads in evening dresses is that
of combining two materials. Satin and
lace, silk and net, velvet and Georgette
crepe, or any other combination is
most effective if properly used. A
clever example is illustrated here, The
most unusual feature is the tunic over
tho draped skirt. 'The satin of tho
skirt Is repeated on the waist, and the
tunic and underwalst and sleuves are
of lace. The color scheme Is charm
ing, orchid satin and cream lace with
a touch of blue in the Crystal beads
on the waist.
The Crowning Glory.
Coiffures and hair ornaments are
verv simple, too. this year. The hair
mnv be slightly waved, and brushed
softly back, ending in a loose knot at
the nape of the neck. Another way
is to pile It up on the head in soft roll
The French twist Is favored too, and
also one still sees the hair dressed so
as to appear 'bobbed." Rhinestone
pins and combs may be used If they
are not too large and elaborate. Ear
rings are coming to the front this year
In many unusual and interesting shapes
The single loop, the double loop and
the triangle of gold are very popular,
and the gypsy earrings are a fad of the
moment.
We are fighting for America and
against Germany. But even military
autocracy does not dare to defend
massacres on the mere ground of na
tional egotism. The German ruling
class organized fts vast propaganda
solely to convince the world, includ
ing the Germans, that it is fighting
for principle. And the considerable
development of that propaganda is
chiefly due to its positive elements.
The Germans tell us they are lighting
to spread "kultur," scientific efficiency
and organization, state socialism.
We are 'fighting against the effort
of autocracy to spread at the expense
of democracy. We are fighting to pre
vent militarism from committing suc
cessful aggression. We are fighting
against war, against the return of
barbarism. What . nre we fighting
for?
Why rest with the statement that
wo are fighting against war and prep
arations for war? Is it not Infinitely
more inspiring that we are fighting
for that ceaseless imprqvement of the
relations between the nations which
can not fail to lead, toward the feder
ation of the world?
Why say we are fighting merely to
defend democracy? Are we not fight
ing to spread It? We can not spread
it by means of the machine gun. We
do not issue an ultimatum to the Ger
man people: You must accept dem
ocracy. But we do see and Ray
that as long as autocracy continues to
exist we shall be obliged to wage some
kind of warfare against it.
Must Prove Its Superiority.
But the German people may adopt
some deceptive compromise that is
neither autocracy nor democracy.
This we Intend to prevent, but we
can prevent it only by demonstrating
to the Germans and to all the world
that democracy is superior In war, In
organization. In the handling of racial
educating ourselves as to the issues)
diplomacy, in industrial technique and !
organization, in the handling of racial I
and other minorities; that we lead in I
educating ourselves as to the issues!
of war. in the formulation of justi
terms or peace, ana in willingness to
sacrifice the smaller, for the larger
good. '
We are fighting to demonstrate the
superiority of democracy. Hut what
democracy has given us chiefly so far
has been Individual opportunity. In
the luck of national organization this
opportunity has been little utilized
fur the national welfare.
We are fighting to develop a supe
riority where Germany has thrown
down the challenge. We have to beat
her in her chosen field, the develop
ment of industrial technique under the
leadership of government. We shall
not soon excel her as to thoroughness,
which means long preparation and
often coercion or subordination of the
individual. But we shall excel In the
jfur more important matter of bring
ing forth individual initiative. And
j our national organization in propor
tion as we build up a national organi
zation win prove superior oeeause so
many individuals in all ranks too
. . . i , V, mil 1 . i ii tr fl.s.v. "l . 1 . wl r9 . I. ...
will irivff mnre than ia dpmnnilpil
Again the Germans have produced
an efficient government. But taey have
produced it by physical, mental, and
moral compulsion of the individual.
The state Is everything, it shapes the
very thoughts and aspirations of the
people. . As a result the state Is wor
shipped, not only for what it is but
also for what it is not. The state can
do no wrong at least abroad. At
home It may hot bo omniscient, but it
is omnipotent. It is fate; resistance
is inconceivable, revolution an out
worn theory. How can the great bulk
of citizens develop either courage or
intelligence in their attitude to, such1
a state?
The State Must be Servant.
The democratic governments of the
world also have been assuming vnst
industrial functions since the war
and It is possible that some of these
functions will be permanent. But
these activities are not based on any
state doctrine taught the people by
governments. hen the people have
felt a need, the state has been their
servant to supply that need whereas
in Germany it is the people that are
the servants of the state. In America
it is our state, and we are fighting to
show not only that it can do every
thing that the German state has done,
but can nueceed where autocracy has
failed.
This is what we are fighting for.
However humiliating it may be, we
did not seriously aim at the maximum
of national r "ieiency in government
and industr i time of peace. Only
the frightful punishment and curse of
war could bring the democratic peo
ples to exert themselves to the maxi
niuni as nations. Not only are we
obliged to do our best now to remove
every national weakness. The enemy
gains still more from the baseness
that has lingered among us the be
trayal of our own democratic prin
ciples. We are fighting, then, not for what
democracy was at its worst, but for
what democracy can be at its best.
No; this is not a negative war. It is a
war to advance democracy. And the
only way we can advance democracy
even in war time is to develop it.
Only in this way can we administer to
the enemies of democracy a lasting
physical, mental, and moral defeat.
Less Barley For Brewing. .
The Hamburger Fremdenblatt re
ports that, owing to the average poor
results of the barley harvest, it is in
tended to assign to brewerers, only
about 20,000 to 30,000 tons of barley
monthly, so that; the barley destined
for brewing purposes will be disposed
of in about four to six months, Omit
ting Bavaria, the peace-time consump-
McCALL
PATTERNS
Does the new bustle
line become you best,
or do you prefer the
straight silhouette?
McCall Patterns and
Publications include
a delightful selection
of designs of both
types.
McCALL
PATTERNS
FOR DECEMBER
NOW ON SALE
THE McCALL COMPANY,
New York
Chicago
San Fn
Bostorancisco
tion of German breweries amounts to
about 1.2 million tons of barley. The
assignment in the new harvest year
would, therefore, amount to not more
than 2 1-2 per cent of the peace-time
consumption. j
Simplicity in Lace mid Charmeuse
times, big receptions, the opera and so
forth, long gloves seem appropriate;
but for less formal occasions, dances,
teas, and even the theater, it is con
sidered perfectly permissible, to leave
them off. Short white gloves must al
ways be worn with long-sleeved
dresses, however. Light-colored gloves
are smart for afternoon wear, and
black may always be worn in the
morning or with a dark suit. Wash
chamois, kid or buckskin are .the best
for morning or sports wear.
' Round Nock and Short Sleeves.
On the order of the bebe waist, so
dear to the heart of the French wom
an, is the dainty little design Illustrat
ed here. The blue charmeuse skirt
falls in soft pleats, and the full lace
waist has a wide band of the char
meuse around the neck. Short "angel"
sleeves are made of the lace. The
tiny bunch if flowers on the girdle Is
of black satin.
I.
GOLD AND SILVER
By MARGARET MASON
ER
)N J
Melinda has n Prussian hat
It's praises loud I sing,
Of stunning gold and black brocade
It's such a pretty thins;.
In Russia they are changing things
And leaders every day,
But that they don't change Russian
hats
I very humbly pray.
New York, Nov. 24. Every woman
la either crowned with gold or silver
these days and It Isn't her hair that's
her- crowning glory either, else how
would the brunettes get in. No .
femininity en masse is rushing around
in a Russian turban of metallic bro
cade. Most of the turbans show the
splashy floral and conventional de
signs of the gold or silver on back
grounds of black, teto de nigre, vivid
blue, bright green or cerise but the
horse show brought out some made
entirely og gold or silver tissue. These
entirely of gold or silver tissue. These
transformed their wearers Into re
plicas of fairy tale princesses wearing
their crowns carelessly around In the
open.
If ws are denied gold and silver
cake on account of the shortage of
sugar It looks as If we were going to
make up for it with a superfluity of
gold and silver In our garments,
i The gold and silver brocade has not
only gone to our heads in the shape of
the smart Russian hats but we are
putting our foot Into it In the form of
glittering Cinderilla evening slippers
and we've actually taken to cover com
pletely beneath the voluminous folds
of gorgeoua metallic brocade evening
wraps.
Evening gowne boast another trim
ming and yet are elaborately ornate
with their drai . ies of the rich and
gleaming stuff while others of one
toned velvet or satin rely on a touch
of the brocade as a bodice or a train
to embellish them beautifully.
One of the most exquisite evening
cloaks that has ever been created, I
am sure, waa worn at tho horse show
to keep Its wearer from becoming a
little hoarse, although the cloak itself
was becoming.
It was as much a work of art ns a
statue by Rodin, a painting by Corot,
or an entree by Oscar. Grey silver
lotus on a back ground of old blue
was Its motif while its lining show
ed gleaming stripes of sliver and blue
' clouded softly with puffings of gold
blue chiffon. A huge cape collar And
equally huge euffa of silver toned chin
chilla completed th picture,
One gown of sea green brocaded in
silver scales would have been much
more appropriated at the aqurium
than the horse show unless they
happened to be sea horses and of
course one nevr goes to the horse
show to see horses only styles.
On every hand and arm are bags
of adornment and design for insplte of
no doubt these bogs boost more gold
and silved without than within. The
shopping bags and the knitting baps
of the metallic brocade vie with one
another for originality and Ingenuity
ofadornment and design for Insplte of
tho fact that the material of which
they are fashioned are gorgeous
enough to satisfy even Solomon in all
his glory they still must add to their
splendor with a tassel hero, a bead or
two there and a bit of fringe or gold
lace most everywhere.
Bodices of the gold and silver bro
cade are stunning worn with black
velvet skirts. Particularly the Rus
sian blouses in the more vivid hues
embossed with the metal are effective.
Wonderful lengths of gold and sil
ver brocaded ribbons come sufficient
ly wide to make a waist and they are
much used for that purpose as well
as for swathing girdles, hip sashes and
trains over plain black velvet slips. .
If ribbons are not handled effec
tively at the horse show there certain
ly can be no hope for them so It is not
surprising that some expert manipu
lating of them has resulted In many
winning and racy costumes. It would
really seem, however, that gold and
silver ribbons are to be desired above
blue ribbons at this year's showing of
horse flesh und bare flesh.
Let them turn off the lights along
the Great White Way at 11 p. m., if
they must it will still bo bright with
glisten!' r gold and silver brocade
grand opera belles and the glittering
little Russian turbaned heads of the
femine theater fans. What matter
if husband goes broke Just so wlfie
goes brocaded. 'Twill be the golden
age as long as the brocade holds out.
I
OVERCOATS ,
Trench and Full Back
Models.
$15 and $20
Get yirs today.
Trivers Clothes
"On The Square"
1
n
the
Co
unty
Where the old-fashioned fire places are four, six and eight
feet wide; where the wood can be had for the felling of a tree,
there really is some pleasure in using an open grate, for you can
pile logs on until there is such a roaring hot fire that the house
can't help but get heated.
But here, where wood is at a premium, and the open grate
coal fire throws out little or no heat, it is really saving in the
long run to use
Gas as a Fuel
The rooms can be kept at an even temperature as long as
needed and when there is no use for a fire simply turn off the
cock and the gas is out.
A GAS RANGE should be in every Asheville kitchen if the
housewife really wants to economize on food and fuel. We'll be
glad to explain.
Asheville Power Light Co.
SALESROOM: 102 PATTON AVE.
t
Toronto
Atlanta
To listen to people who tell you j
things for your own good Is' harmless 1
and it affords them a lot of pleasure, j
Life is one continuous round of un j
finished business. I