Newspapers / The Asheville Times (Asheville, … / Dec. 2, 1917, edition 1 / Page 18
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THE ASHEVILLE TBIES. SUNDAY, DEC 2, 1917 0 .XT tCoprrliiaC III, ty The NeClnre Npr 8jrWltc.i "PELTED WITH PELTRY," IS PHRASE APPLIED TO WOMEN'S APPEARANCE PACE TTO (L- "KZXu Fur wristlets, anklets and separate collars are added to large and distinguished garments It is no longer necessary to match one garment with another in a costume Jew eled bodices serve with separate skirts for evening, jersey silk blouses are dropped over velveteen and cloth skirts, and short and long jackets are worn over plain or plaid skirts that contrast, but do not match in color. JEWELED BODICES AND METALLIC SASHES ENLIVEN GOWNS. T'VO important farts stand out in the fashions for winter which have 'Just' .'begun thetr career. The extraordinary dis play of peltry is one, and the Juxtaposition of different materials is the other. ' The-'-first fashion spells extrava gance; the second stands for econ omy. It is the latter in which the (treat majority of women should he more interested, but with that . de lightful Inconsistency which makes the race charming, they pay more at tention to the extra vacant fashion and allow it to absorb the better part of their thoughts on dress. The last savage instinct to exist in a woman is her desire fin pieces of fur to adorn her person. 1 here was once r time when peltry belonged to winter and was needed for protection, and this excuse was used by every woman who could filch money from the housekeeping allowance to buy a bit of fur to co about her neck; but . this flimsy excuse has faded into the background since it has been the fashion to be as prolific with fur in hot weather as in c;M weather.. , Much of the interest in clothes has been weakened, from an artistic point -of view, by the refusal of women to regard the importance of dressing in 1 seasonable manner. When summer had its clothes and winter produced those that belonged to itself, there Was a sharp contract In feminine apparel. The shops made money by it, the women were made comfortable about it and they took to themselves something of the joy ous changes of Nature and presented the green leaf and the white snow as pleasing changes. Over in Europe, however, the wom en took it into their heads to keep to the same kind of clothes throughout the twelve months, merely because one or more summers over there were distinctly colder than they had been and the temperature demanded suit able apparel. Here in America, where the summers are as hot as in the tropics, the women grasped the Euro pean fashion, regardless of its lack pt suitability to our climate, and wore velvet hats and foxes about their pecks under the beating afternoon suns of August. At the beginning of this fashion, the shopkeepers were its most per sistent advocates. They sa a chance to release every garment in their stock without having to hold it o'er through the season; but commercial optimism on this point has shown signs of leaking out for the reason that women find that they are not' compelled by the seasons to buy pew! clothes and that uniform dressing! throughout the twelve months of the I calendar permits them to economize whenever necessary. ! Pelting Women with Peltry. j The appearance of a group of worn-1 en on the street on a cool morning; suggests that some dynamic force has been pelting them with pieces of fur . in a hit or miss fashion.. There is no plan of action running through . the scheme of dressing. . Wherever a piece of fur has hit a frock, they..? it. remains. It may be on the head, the waist, the ankles or the back. . Unless one sees through observing eyes that find amusing episodes in ihe use of pew fashions lv vo-.t'-'n. ope may not see this peculiar eft'iH-t that, a large number of women pro-. du.ee, spotted as they are. by the hide of every animal that can be caught and killed. A cartoonist has called them "a human menagerie, with the '-. occupants walking to and fro. clam-i moiing loudly for what they want." i The effect of a menagerie would be I better produced if women contented themselves with one garment of pel try and covered their figures with it from shoulders to ankles, but they have turned their attention to pieces of peltry that Can be attached to the costume wherever there might have been a space. There are swinging panels at the sides of skirts which are edged with fur; there are immense collars with wide, separate wristlets of fur used on blouses and coats; there are jackets which have fur peplums or ft fur panel down the back; there are other coats that display waistcoats of peltry and, possibly, patch pockets which correspond with the hem on the skirt. The milliners have made 'hats of fur in patchwork fashion. A turban of yellow will have brown spots on it; a flaring brim of sealskin will be atached to a crown of ermine which has a medallion of seal -on .top; a bee hive hat of black velvet will have bands made from three kinds of fur running around the base of the crown to end in a lover's knot at the side. . Few women want to buy a top coat or a short, rippling jacket of fur which Is not built up in successive tires of opposing peltries. For In stance, a short cape coat of sealskin has collar and cuffs of ermine edged with black broadtails and there are huge buttons of seal surrounded by broadtail . and set in gunmeta! rims. EXAGC!:T7TFD CAPE AND MUFF OF E3MINE WITH BLACK TAILS. . First Is a frock bnllt from n separate, bodice of .leveled net. with black velvet skirt. The drapery on the, right side forms I ho train in the back, and the straps of ermine ami sable which go over the shoulder, join the train below the waistline. Second is a frock of yellow net for yonng girl. It 19 embroidered In bine and gold and made in Greek fash Ion. The wide, ornamental sa.sh Is of cloth of goid striped with hands of blue velvet ribbon. Thin cap of peltry In held to the figure by n waistcoat effect In front and lt shapeless folds fall away from the neck and sleeve. The barrel muff 1 111 ail ludiun lriiigu of black and white tails to correspond with the hat of tb draert nude of black vcUet, the brim covered wltb ontrtab Hum, Where there is so much fur floating 1 ahout, it is quite natural that the j odds and ends of it should be utilized as long as fashion permits women to i put it on their clothes without appar-j ent design. . Lover's knots, which have come into fashion agrin, are made of fur. 1 for instance, and are attached to'the, cuffs, to the front of the collar and; sometimes used as a substitute fori buttons down the front of a velvet! bodice or a loose Russian blouse that ' is belted in with peltry. i The sweeping demand for wristlets! which has been made by the fighters has introduced a new fashion in fur 1 among women. Possibly, you have! not seen these medieval bits of arm i coverings? Some of them are shaped1 like the lace mitts worn in the Civil i war. with a slash at one side for the thumb; others are made very much on the pattern of the knitted wristlet desired by the lied Cross. This fashion has not spread over the continent quickly, and it is, therefore, offered to all women who .want to do the unusual in dress. Bits of fur may easily be used for these wristlets, the lining may be quite gorgeous, and if one affects color, this wlrstlet of fur may be rolled bark at Its top edge and made to show the color beneath as It flares away from the sleeve of the bodice or jacket over which It Is worn. As a fashion, these peltry wristlets are good looking, and as a means of protection against cold weather they are entirely admirable. They are by no means confined to the smart classes, but have been taken up by all the mass of women who go out early In the morning to their various ac tivities either as professionals or as volunteers. They are not substitutes for muffs, but In connection with a large neck piece or a fur cape they provide enough warmth to a coat suit against a low temperature. By the way, why does it not occur to some furrier to revive the ancient anklets of fur? Wo have become quite obsessed with the idea of going to museums to get suggestions for modern clothes from ancient and sometimes savage' raiment, and as long as wo are copying the designs of the Incas, reviving the embroidery of the Filipino, copying the porcelains of China, adopting the armlets of ancient Egypt, why should we not take up the furry anklets that we gee in comic opera when ft has been placed on the shores of the South Sea islands? 1, Anklets have already been exploit ed by dancers, but they were made of jeweled lace or cloth of gold set with colored crystals, and not a few of the new French clothes strongly suggest the anklet by having the dra pery of the skirt pulled into the ankle and fastening it there with a jeweled band. Now, tho wide anklet of fur lined with satin or crepe de chine would be ft protection worth having In cold weather, and the woman who insists upon wearing low shoes on winter days might find a fascinating new fashion In drawing attention to them by adding a ten-inch anklet of seal skin above the instep covered with its silk stocking. Let some furrier take it up and see how women ac cept It. The Blouse of the nnr. The second fact of importance In fashion which- wu stated in the be- ginning of this story Is the further ance 'of economical ideas in dress by! joining together whatever materials . j one likes to accomplish a suit or a frock. In this one rerpect, fashion has turned a somersault over the Inter vening deeadvs between a fashion that was and a fashion that Is. Those who were shrewd enough to foretell ,a scarcity of worsted materials in the world warned us that a season would soon break in which the uniform line of color and fabric from chin to ankle must be abandoned. That hour has1 SEPARATE BLOUSE OF SILK JERSEY. have these separate blouses in a fabric that Is most agreeable in .such gar ments. The high-class weave of new jersey has a brocaded surface, and it is used for one-piece frocks trimmed with fur. However, when the purse affords it, It makes a remarkably good loking peasant blouse suitable for a black velvet skirt, both of which are hidden by a topcoat until such time as their appearance is needed. Panne velvet has also been widely taken up for these separate blouses when they are. to be worn for formal house affairs. Although the tailors are continuing to make mannish coat suits that are built from the same fabric, the dress- makers are offering separate coats t be worn with plain or plaid skirts, and I they frankly say that one Jacket will ; do for jnany skirts, or the other way I around. j Black and tan is an acceptable com- bination in this fashion, and shadow I plaid skirts in blue and black and gray ;and Burgundy are worn with short I coats of colored or black velveteen I which barely reach the hip-line. The white shirtwaist may be worn . beneath these coats, but as a rule, I there is a short, straight, medieval corslet made of satin that matches the color of the skirt and has an embroid ered hip-band with ornamental pock ets in front. SOME EARLY WINTER FASHIONS BEA'D trimming is widely used on many frocks and blouses of Georgette crepe. One especially lovely afternoon frock is made of gray Georgette, with a deep overskirt edged with an Inch wide band of blue bead embroidery. The round necked bodice and the long, loose sleeves are likewise edged with the same banding. brown is one of the best colors of the winter. LEATHER belts are widely used, In tailormade suits and frocks. Ft APTYCi . nenaniAttfa maa n luuiicia vi 11 iui-ov:t-iii luiui inn mo uncu on some of the new velvet hats. FLAME color is coming in for much attention this season, especially fur evening wraps and gowns. It is a lovely color, especially in velvet or In not or Georgette. PEEP hems of fur are used on frocks of thin material. YOUNG girls' frocks of Rerge or some other heavy fabric are shown with pique collars. On frocks for women the white collar has been to a large extent replaced by a collar of colored linen or else colored Georgette or chiffon. Pull blue is much used for collars for navy blue frocks. UMBRELLAS of colored silks are gaining more and more popularity as the days become longer and darker. Blue, green, red and purple are the colors most often seen. FESTOONS of lace are arranged ruffle like on some of the new silk petticoats. MUCH millinery is shown In brown velvet. Whether the dye situation or the swinging pendulum of fashion able taste is responsible for this popu larity nobody knows. At all events ALTHOUGH Sam Browne belts are tabooed in some sections as far as sol dier's apparel goes, they are .increas ingly popular for women. They are sold inexpensively and give the much desired military aspect to the young girl's street costume. , . PONGEE silk, now that it is so dif ficult to get silks of European man ufacture, is more and more used and predictions are made that it will be in great demand next spring. OS'E of the newest ideas in pajam as with a bustle. This bustle is ef fected by several ruffles of wide rib bon, fastened across the back of the pajamas at the hip line. rA.TAMAS are made in many colors. Usually they are In the lighter shades, but lavendar, pink and rose, violet, green, mustard color and blue are all used for these sleeping garments. Very often two colors are combined. Gray underwear seems to be an accom plished fact.f It has been deelgnated by some makers as the color for "service underwear." As It is made up in Georgette and satin as well as in linen it can hardly be .called emi nently serviceable. Obviously It is used because it remains apparently clean longer than the white, but the fact that it cannot be worn under transparent white or color without looking soiled, even when it is entirely fresh, makes it interesting rather than useful. ACCESSORIES FOR AN EVENING GOWN. Thin Drocoll house costume, built In two piece. has a peasant blouse of old rose silk jersey trimmed with black sutln and embroidered in gold und old rose. The black velvet skirt lias a touch of the samo embroidery M the hem. ' approached more rapidly than even j the prophets foretold. At the mo- j ment, we are noi. aware that there is any exasperating need of" such econ omy, but preparedness is the best way t to face an approaching truth. Therefore, the world of dressmak-1 ers has given women to understand that it is no longer necessary to have a coat that matches a skirt or a blouse that matches cither, no mat ter for what occasion the costume is intended.' Even for the most cere monial hours, such as the opera, a dinner or a dance, there are black and colored velvet skirts with bodies that are as remote from the skirt as though they had been bodily lifted from another costume. These bodices are usually of jew eled net, and they glitter like that famous corslet once worn by a great beauty of France, who, !,i the hour of her highest social and financial- tri umph in the Primrose Hath, put to gether nil the jewels that men had given her and ooyered the upper'part of her figure with them. These crys stal bodices are not especially ex pensive, and there are many thou sand dollars' worth of difference be tween them and the corslet of Me rode; but they give much tho same effect. -. These corslets, by the way, are not always attached to one skirt. They are mounted on a fitted lining, and a satin, velvet or brocaded skirt can be placed below them. For the house, and for all manner of usage under a coat, there is an other kind of separate blouse which is. at last, a serious rival to the white shirtwaist There Is nothing new in It. It has been worn for centuries by the peas ants of every country. It was adopt ed In America by a minority of wom en over a year ago, but It is now of fered as the most pleasing contrast to a skirt that has nothing in com mon with it as far as texture and color go. It may be argued that separate shirtwaists provide tho excuse for wearing a separate skirt, but the ma' iority of women have learned that the peasant blouse Is a more graceful garment than .a wash blouse that ends at the waistline and breaks the figure at tho very 'point where it should be smoothed over and flat tened. . The host of women who have work ed In the arts and crafts department of dress, and those who have catered to the artistic element, offered these separate blouses with persuasive words, but It was only when the shops took them up that the public accepted them as a leading fashion. i It is quite easy to see how they sim plify dressing They are. made of soft, colorful fabrics, the lining may be added or dispensed with, they manage to blend with any kind of separate skirt that tho wardrobe affords, and they permit a woman to remove her coat at luncheon in the afternoon, which was a permission not given by the separate white shirtwaist. Tho universality of the topcoat rttid the decreasing popularity of the tailor ed suit are other factors that promote the growth and development of this blouse of the hour, which, after all, is a return to primitive things. The revival of a special weave of Jersey silk and its acceptance by fas tidioui women, gives one a, chance to Wristlet and collar' made of sealskin worn with a low gown of black velvet, the shoulders covered with an emerald green tulle Hcurf. The block butterfly on the arm Is the latest bit of coquetry of the-scasou. MAKING a regular business of it Love & Co., let's call the firm and taking in all the part ners who will either do something or give something. And investing all the assets for saving souls and mending .broken hearts. And declaring the richest dividends on earth sunshine and smiles, and renewed nope and rebuilt faith. Isn't this ideal business for us all to take stock" in? an Rl6ney spent at the Good Saniaritan and Associated Charities' Bazaar, buys more than it has power to purchase - ' - elsewhere; it buys Tovely gifts, deli- cious meals and a blessing for you and some one else. HENDERSON, Your Jeweler 52 Palton Ave. Near Post Office
The Asheville Times (Asheville, N.C.)
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Dec. 2, 1917, edition 1
18
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