Newspapers / Winston-Salem Journal (Winston-Salem, N.C.) / Jan. 20, 1918, edition 1 / Page 13
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Sunday Morning, January 20, 1918 THE WINSTON-SALEM JOURNAL THIRTEEN (Cswri. !! TM SleClsrs Nevsssper 8hHri -- - - - HH 1 I I Y A-t, U IT Ml- VU V fl I ll f I LT C A Ii2'C DHVC IM SJ A HTC 1 ITIvl 1 7iWyft r r xr wf( Jt is an earnest to the French people of great resources which are coming to the aid of France in her heroic struggle Seldom does the perusal of the war news in the morning paper bring sat isfaction to American readers, these days. The peace parleys of the Bol nhevlki. the grave situation in Italy, addec' to the steadily chronicled sub marine sinkings and the stories of de. lays and incompetencies at home, are ' enough to cause our breakfast war rolls and our unsweetened coffee to stick in our throats. Yet among n'1 the nccuiuulated glooms, tfuie are little nugsets of cheer, though some of them are so deeply imbeddec1 in the clay of dis aster that it is hard indeed to find them.- One of these is the undpubtod improvement of what might be called the general atmosphere of Paris. Every arrival from that city, e very fashion letter, even the more serious chronicles speak of the intangible change which has made over the mu nicipal conscience. Apparently, noth ing is changed; yet in the restaurants and hotels the menus are more appe tizing: the diners axe gayer; the the aters fuller and the pieces played there are more interesting and bet, ter mounted. At the opera, at the conference of fashionable lecturers, at the few concert, at all the places where society gathers, the same story of better dressing, of increased in terest in clothes and all that pertains 10 them, of the discreet reappearance of jewelry, is told by so many wit nesses that we are forced by mere weight of numbers to believe them. Paris itself wonders. But make inquiries as to the reason, and after more or less deliberation you will re ceive from all quarters the name an swer. America Is responsible. Not our home part of it; but the small opresentative body of the groat, po tential possibilities of our country which has already impressed itself upon the consciousness of Paris so effectively as to give back to tho peo. pie a faint reflection of their ante bellum gaiety. Ever since the first Stetson hat was seen on the boule vards, the imagination of Paris has been stimulated by the picture of khaki-clad millions in similar head gear, swarming to her rescue. She may have been disappointed by cY- ! lays in realization, but her faith in U" is unshakable. "We shall not be , abandoned we shall not have to en. ' dure to tho point of utter exljaustion America is behind us, America with her millions of tall sons and her end less resources." The first conting ents were welcomed for their own I, . ! GOWN WITH DRAPED SKIRT - It is of dark blue and gray rm hroiderod in bine. Tho hogc pockets at tho sirto are also embroidered in th o blue, pected from the street, like thse of so many of the older mansions of the French captial. The house itself Is very large, wonderfully furnished and contains a great and famous library, a private theater am.' best of all sakes. but also as an earnest of what from the English and American point of view, a great swimming pool. All of these wonders are at the disposl- was to come. Welcome for Hie Soldiers And Paris has given her nc-.vu'tl aiiies a royal reception. ltecentiy the cables bore the story of a superb trift to the allied officers of America. Eng land, Italy and Belgium, liaron Henri de Kothschild has placed his palace for it is nothing less in the Fan hours: Paint Honure at their disposal as a, club. Behind the nig-i walls, which shut if off from ths curious, j lie spacious grounds, utterly unius- ' tion of any officer of the alllri.' na. tions who has beeu ,assed upon by the committee. General Pershing In where the khakl-clad Yankees are welcomed without any introductions at all. ThesB include the salons of the great dressmakers. Returning Americans bring travelers' tales of unusual clients in the gray anc' mir rored reception rooms of the build ings which bear sartorially famous names over their doorways. The J w- elers of the Rue de la Palx might con firm the tales were they to minded. It is whispered that many a Christ one of the board or directors, and , . . 1 dim box from "over there" contained its presnrvnt is the popular Admiral r . ,, , .v . Fournier I feminine finery with famous names Besides this splendid prift, many of tho Frcn.-h clubs have opened their rooms to visiting American officers, after proper introductions. But there are uiMiiy other Parisian institutions NEW HAT FOR THE SPRING II L of dark red sirr.v v. Ill; a lar; c flOwr worked out In worsted In the embroidered in the belts and stamped in gilt upon the boiefc! The American troops are paid on a scale that would turn a French war ministry white with horror. Besides, many of the brand new officers now wearing Uncle Sam's uniform are men with bunk accounts which would be respected even In extravagant Now York. Put any American with money In his pockets in Paris ana his bru ipulse is to spend It ant.', keep on spending It. Wearing brown cloth and a flannel shirt isn't going to alter that instinct It's too deep-seated. The visiting American officer goes to the theater, of course, though un fortunately he is apt to be a little deaf in his French ear. Rut his eyes are keen enough; and by all account he gets his moneys worth optically if not orally. Parisian plays are said to be better and to be mere attrac tively costumed than they have been since 1914. There Is no ban niilitaire on evening cYess, on the stage, at least, though the prohibition still ex tends to the audience. However, we are told that the ParUtenne :s feel ing so much happier that she makes one tMckneg of tulle fulfill official requirements, and the demi-toilette grows more like formal evening dcess every week. Propriety would need be served wit ii a film of tulle for sleeves anC yoke in such a frock as the pink taf feta shown in the sketch. Hut If the 1'arlslenne wore it she might well add a scarf, for these filmy trifles are suid to be the rage; In brilliant hues, though light as the stuff that dreams j are made of, they perhaps typify the ! Inexplicable ar.imatlon that Is. no 1 i.oticeable In Paris. The deml-tolletle, however. Is not ii ,ng new to France, There has ways been a certain popularity for this type of gown in Paris and worn with a hat, it Is often seen at tho theater or at restaurant or hotel din ners before the war. In this, the French capital was a great contrast to the English one, in which only ths fullest of evening; dress, with a bars head, was consid ered the thing for such occasions. Ws have followed the French custom rather more than the English did in this. Many American women have had the feeling that a very decollets gown is out of place in a public place, and even before the war it was cus tomary to see them keep their evening oloaks pulled closely around their shoulders in such places. Of late years, bare shoulders have been more frequently seen, but this winter a searcher for pointers on evening cTrss would have had an unprofitable time oV.it in most pUicos in New York. Never have evening frocks been less evident in public, and evening coats more;, so. This feeling has lead to a revival of the so-called "restaurant" hat, a thing of lightness ana grace, of which the large example In satin with a lace brim, shown today might serve as a type. Often such hats are a mora suggestion of tulle, held apparently by magic in the shape of a crown and a brim., ( Paris again Gay Some of the recent first nights in Paris have been signalized by the wearing of exceedingly good clothes. This was particularly true of the premiere of Jeanne d'Aiv. a work new to Paris, though not to iomlon. Tho salle was very brillVnt and was pack ed to the doors. The orchestra seats are sale' to have sold for fabulous sums fend the boxes for small fortun es. The proceeds were turned over to the French Ited Cross. "Half toil ettes," which were only to be distin guished from the ents-helltun even ing gowns by the afore-mentioned use of a film of tulle, were worn by all the women; and many of them ap peared in interesting and unusual headdresses. Paris seems to feel the necessity of headgear with a semi evening frock; hence the introduction of all sorts of amuoing arrangi mc'nts Oriental turbans; Jeweled effects, elaborate bandH of Jet with dangles over the ears, all of these anc? many more were seen, and they were cre ations of the best dressmakers of France. In the street, the Parisierrae still champions the frock and coat, or the "coat dYess." All winter, satin has been a favorite material for outdoor things, interlined, of course, for warmth, and simply slathered with fur. Satin will continue in favor and there Is mention of a revival of the "wool back" variety, which had some success a good many years ago. For spring, the combination of materials, which seems to please our own de signers and manufacturers equally well, will be featurec.'. LACE BRIM THAT VEILS THE EYES The Crown of this liat Is ivrap p"d liko an Indian turlmn, and luce b rim Is of unusual width CONSERVATION FROCK OF GABARDINE r -j The blue gabardine frock illustrat ed Is a suggestive one. It fulfills every requirement of the commercial economy board on the wool question, as there is only a scant skirt of the scaroo material. A Jumper bodice of ta; and blue striped silk, worn aver an organide vest and belted Into, place, is offered as a sort of subsM tute for the sleeveless vest of knittr 1 wool which was so popular last yar. I Thero really ought to be few wom en with "the face" to knit in colored i wools for their own adornment, in i these days of crying demands from the army and navy. But the slip-on gearment without sleeves has taken such a hold upon our affections that it is difficult to think of abolishing it altogether. Nor need we e'o so. Amer ican designers, anxious to serve their soldiers and sailors in this -vital mat, ter, have had the cleverness to offer the same type of garment in materi als of which there is, at present, no such pressing need. Vests of flannel, of heavy shan tungs and other rough weaves of silk, even of satin, made almost exactly like the sweater vest of last summer, have been made up and are being of fered to women whose patriotic inten tion might weaken If these novelties were any less attractive than they are. Jersey, both in wool anc silk, is another favorite material for them, Jersey Weaves Taken up In fact, Jersey weaves have not in the least diminished in popularity. The first wool Jersey woven In thl.i country was rather too reminiscent of Uncle Josh's red underwear to have a success with fastidious women. Hut the weave has been greatly improved. As for the silk varieties, there is a heavy sort, of vegetable fiber, which Is Immensely satlsfacory. It is heavy and lustrous and not too strntchable. It, hangs In the rich, long folds that cling to the figure and lends itself particularly well to strictly one-piece frocks of coats which hang from the shoult'er In an Oriental effect, like the frock of dark blue and gray jer. sey shown In ths sketch. Such ma terial Is never lined, but it Is worn over a lining of some sort made espec ially for It. Paris Is using this heavy kind for outdoor coats, some of them of the slip-on over the heat.', which have failed to achieve success with us. but which she still fancies. Our hotels, restaurants and houses are still. It spile or threatened coal famine, so well heated for the most purt that we have retained our habit of slipping off our outdoor garment at the slightest provocation. The idea of wrlgtfllng out of a cojit made all in one piece or pulling It over our heads liko a sailor boy takins off his Mouse, c'oes not .appeal to us; neither does the French woman's way of getting !'. on again, which la simply to make a circlo of the garment on the floor ;md step Into the middle of it, palling it up around her. Here is another reason for the retention of the small hat. Nueh a feat would he impossible ' Is raulit up at one wide and the oth a bi ol' . ' er side is veiled In whltr tnlle. v1o!" "f milliner .-ay small nat fur spring. Tor the beginning m ( , at. any rate. Lewis Is -reported to have had "toques" very distinctly and to be making them to suit indl vicual faces, by building' them on the things, IiairdresHlng is doomed to rt- V 1 main very much us at present. And no one has eliher time or inclination, to indulge in the making of elaborate head of a client, fold by fold. It must In,ffa a,Kl r"rlH ,hpse 'llne of be an interesting ooeration to waieh !trenuoiis endeavor, war work an4 Of course,, as long as hats do such ! 24-hol,r waking days. FROCK FOR YOUNG GIRL --4 a- A It Is of Nile pink I off eta, with Ui o boclico embroidered with white silk. Old rowj vehei ribbon over tin? sluml clcr anil around die waist. The skirt II Is of blue giibsrdlne. ami ihe Jumper bodice n Men is worn org.iml) fi and liellel into plner. Is of lun ami blue Mripcd gllk.
Winston-Salem Journal (Winston-Salem, N.C.)
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Jan. 20, 1918, edition 1
13
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