Newspapers / The Charlotte Post (Charlotte, … / May 22, 1986, edition 1 / Page 13
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From Pot Washer To Executive Cook, Joe Deas Learned D.. _m . m a . I . Everything From Scratch By Audrey C. Loda to 1 Poot Staff Wrlter L When Joe Deaa was btfylx* Us mother in the kitchen as a young iter, he may not have thought he'd ape day be an executive chef, but ; mat’s whet happened. **» From hia start S3 yean ago as a •3?01 cleaner and dish washer at die [Sid Barringer Hotel, Deaa rose in Us :.T*0,en P*"®*®®!0® to become execu Sve chef of the Charlotte Athletic ; Jhd}, Inc. ,<Yery few chefs start the way I :2M.” Dms stated. “Moat go to _ school and an apprenticeship pro gram. But going through the back ■floor the way I did was helpful to me ? ^Because I know the business from 3J»e ground floor,” — It took Urn 10 yean to work Us Stay up through all the station, he Jpld, but on the way he learned to do 2 lot of things from scratch. Deas basically follows tradition in Ms Rooking but from time to time be 3®joys inventing something. One •auch dish is "Breast of Chicken Xori,” named for his 13 year old •daughter. It consists- of chicken -breast stuffed with diced ham, green pepper, onion, thyme, bread ^Crumbs, egg yolk, and topped with jMornay sauce. ■» Deas said his best dishes are soups And casseroles. He makes over 100 Varieties of soup, with Us favorite •being an Italian soup of seafood in a tomato base. ^Although many soups start with afresh ingredients, many others can be made with leftovers, or two ^different soups can be combined to Create a third, he said. Deas likes the challenge of being a •ehef, doing something different •Avery day, and pleasing people. “Most chefs enjoy being compU ' -merited on their food,” he remarked, and Deas is probably no different in Out respect. ! A couple of challenges Deas has found at the Charlotte Athletic Club ire dealing with different nation 4lities and serving a "diet special” every day. Although the club is health-oriented, Deas said moat members haven't dungwi their diets. His staff has been working with the Heart Association to come up with dishes that are good for the heart and blood pressure. The basic idea is to stay away from grease hy cooling stocks and then removing the fat that rises to the top; and by heating foods in stock rather than butter. Despite his good intentions, how ever, the favorites at the club continue to be Chicken Oscar, Dover Sole, and Charleston Seafood Ceeaerole, all rich in cream sauces. Deas is active in the local chefs' association, the Epicurean Club of Charlotte. Several months bock, be was elected to his second two-year term as president. He Is also a “ member of the United Chefs Asso ciation, the black chefs’ associa tion. In preparation for the 1968 natio nal chefs’ convention, which will be held in Charlotte at the Adam’s Mark Hotel, chefs from both Carolinas are compiling a cookbook as a fundraiser. Deas plan to include six soup, six chicken, and six beef dishes of his own in the book, which will be on sale to the public. Since he works split shifts, Deas rarely cooks for his family. That chore is left in the hands of his wife, Lucille. Deas does, however, pre pare dishes for big family occasions like parties and weddings. * He’s been at the Charlotte Athle tic Club for two years. like many chefs, Deas has worked at a number of locations. He says the reason chefs move around so much is that the average stay of a. manager is three years, and each new manager may want to bring his (or her?) own chef. “It’s like politics,” he added. Deas grew up in a family of nine. A sister also cooks professionally. Besides Lori, the Deases have two other children, Jowanda, seven, and Joseph m, who is 11. Chief Deas brought samples of the . following recipes to the Past earlier this week. The staff loved every one of them, and the Oriental Friendship Soup worked wonders on my cold! f 1 ORIENTAL FRIENDSHIP SOUP " ' ■ In the Orient, a variety of one dish meals cooked and served at the table are called friendship dishes. This is one of my l favorites. 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 4 c. beef stock : 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 4 green onions, sliced 1 4 os. regular onions, : sliced thinly HHbs.'betf, sliced 10 oz. fresh spinach ; leaves, washed and ;' tom into small pieces Pepper to taste ■ 1 pkg. or can chow mein noodles 2 c. very fine egg noodles, cooked and drained In a large bowl combine the cornstarch with beef broth and soy sauce; set aside. Saute onions in 3 Tbsp. peanut oil til limp Push aside, add more oil, and brown beef on both sides. Add celery, spinach, and beef stock mixture. Mix well, season with pepper, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add chow mein noodlea. and. cooked egg noodles. Cook 5 minutes longer, til vegetables are Just tender, not overcooked. Tip: Use sirloin of beef. This is a meal in itself. Serves 6. Chef Joe Deas .With ragout and gumbo ____ - i jT. Bv vh BBBkl Bh If you’re the kind of who feels the spirit of patriotism , quietly, without fanfare, trumpets and a bt of the flagwaving, and you’d like to do something about it, there’s an Army Reserve unit near you. A place where you can make yourself ready in case your country needs you. Where you can share your pride with others who feel as you do. When the spirit moves you, call: Nsircit M. MMMMMWl!** B^ALLYOU CAN BE. NEW ORLEANS CHICKEN ANDOKRAGUMBO—* Tins is a good summer outdoors dish with Louisianians. The word gumbo is taken from the Bantu word for okra. The dish is traditionally thickened with okra and file powder, which is made from ground dried sassafras leaves. 1 (3 lb.) fryer, disjointed 10 oz. onions, diced 1 c. smoked ham 2 Tbsp. bacon drippings 2Vfc lbs. fresh tomatoes 20 oz. fresh sliced okra 8 c. hot water V« oz. diced parsley 1 pod red pepper or Vfc tap. cayenne 1 tap. file powder (optional) 3 c. cooked rice Divide chicken into 21 pieces, wash and wipe dry. Saute onions and ham in bacon drippings over low heat til onions are tender. Add chicken and fry until golden. Mix in tomatoes and cook one minute. Add remaining ingre dients except file powder and rice. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer covered for one hour. Check, cook 30 minutes more. Add file powder. Put rice into 6 soup bowls. Ladle gumbo over rice. Serves 6. LOBSTER AND CRABMEAT RAGOUT 3 Tbsp. diced shallots Green spring onions ,/* c. diced green peppers v« c. butter or margarine 3 Tbsp. flour tap. grated nutmeg 4 tap. Worcestershire Cayenne (1 dash only!) Salt, pepper to taste c. whole milk 2 (6 oz.) lobster tails 2 c. lump crabmeat, cleaned 1 c. heavy cream Soak shallots in l c. whole milk. Saute green onions and green peppers in butter in large sauce pan. Mix in flour to form a roux. Cook one minute, add nutmeg, Worcestershire, cayenne, salt, pepper, and 4 c. milk. Stir slowly, making sure you’ve turned heat down. Add 4 c. milk with shallots. Add lobster, crab meat, and cream. Heat through. PLAZA'S « f Us SALK! 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The Charlotte Post (Charlotte, N.C.)
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May 22, 1986, edition 1
13
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