!
if
f.-.f
.....
f ...... - .
1 .
i 1 -A
SV
1 V 1 vyy v 'ATTT v - , 1 j . 1 II l 111 111 t; .. S; 1 j ft -, 'tv-1 SV
..f.-4$', Vi t-Vrii-f nl-A iH v ?v.-a MmpaU '!& A
- A M 4"s m fJ -yxeT-i ifJk i " f sr44-! !M
1 VfVtX !5r'WttT;'4 Kfeai J ,
lv ? c ;tifes IP -FTrA P ft fel l fl lltafl "
( fit , - r-1 E- ,?;;- , .!7. '.rV -i fy i ..'-'v) H V
. Crealion. of? Satin ."BTocade .and Oni? f on.
Mediaeval Designs Sought for Modem Lounging
Robes - Russian, Chirtese, Venetian and Oriental
V Effects Combined - Much Lace and Chiffon
But Few Beads On the House Gown.
HE government of Franc h
put ban on evtnlnj gownj. It
baa -' Issued an edict , against
woman wearing evening dress
. In publla This is a aerloua expres
sion , of ' disapproval against frivolity
In a time of tragedy; it Is more than
that an official edict with fines and
, even arrests for the luckless ones who
disobey. It la a serious thing Indeed
whan lha government of a great na
t tlon. concerns Itself so. arbitrarily with
V the 'gar of It womankind, yet In
., franca now the spirit of patriotism,
. of 'helpfulness. Is so high that there
, Is -yet . to be found a single woman
who has . made the least demur
against the Government's command.
The - Frenchwoman, 1 however. Is a
' resouroef ui creature and- aba must
' be' chic; even If she has to spend her
; evening hour, by her , own fireside
- or to be exact,' for flresldas are rather
1 the exception In Paris In her own
talon, Ponied - ' the conventional
t grande toilette of formality, she has
. turned ' her attention to enchanting
at home gowns lounging robes, or
' house iwbes, as she terms them and
. needless to say. the couturiers have
com to her aid In a body; some of
the new house robes are veritable
breams of loveliness. These robes
V are really gforffled tea gowns and In-
aplratlon for them Is drawn from
' Russian, Chinese and Oriental motifs.
n
CHARMING nursery Is so easy
to achieve at moderate cost
that the young mother should
not be discouraged because of
, th luxuriously furnished apartments
' for infants, on which she, feasts her
1 longing eyes In magazine pictures and
' In model rooms arranged in the big
i sbopa
Charm In the nursery Is "not so
much a question of money as of taste.
and a very pretty, room may be de- i
vised with the expend ltur of only a
taw dollars. First, and most Im
portant Is th matter of sunshln.
To 1 1 baby must be given the sun
niest room In th house, even If It Is
th chamber that has heretofore been
set apart as a guest room. The more
windows the better, and an Ideal ar-
t rangetnent Is a double or triple win- j
. dow with a long. low seat running
under th sills. Warmth is another
1 important consideration. An even,
' equable heat must be maintained all
3 day long In the nursery. Spasmodic
heating from an open fire, oil stove
or gas burner will not do: though an
r bpen fir will be a delightful addition
. to the nurses j If it carTbe managed
and an oil or gas heater may be
Importers have searched the studios
of artists for Ideas and have even
gone to Venice to study ancient cos
tumes in studios there. Mediaeval
styles have been- recaptured and In
corporated Into' lovely modern crea
tions, all flowing lines and wonderful
color; -and the best' of It is. If one Is
a bit economically 'minded. Is that
almost any discarded evening go.wn
may be turned Into the most adorable
house robe with the addition of a lit
tle new material.
Americans Do Not Wear Enough
9ouse Gowns.
It . has always seemed surprising,
to French and English women, that
the Americans gave so little attention
to house robes. In England especial
ly, the tea gown Is an Institution. No
English woman of fashionable rank
ever thinks of sitting about her home
In her . street clothes as American
women do. The moment she comes
in, her maid removes her tailored out
door attlra and gets her into a tea
gown or house gown of soft silk or
chiffon. In this she receives her aft
ernoon visitors and serves tea In her
drawing room. The English house
gown is the most charming costume
one sees though only the privileged
visitor who has the entr into the
homes of high-class people ever do
see It English women are Inclined
to be a bit stiff In their evening frocks
called Into use at bath hour on spa-
daily cold mornings. But furnace
heat of some sort there Lould be. all
winter long.
Floor draughts must be avoided.
Weather strips should be put In all
the windows and also along the bot
tom of doors opening Into th hall or
other rooms. Sometimes In old or
poorly built houses a draught makes
lis way between floor and baseboard
aQd any crevice of this sort should be
attanded to. One large, soft rug Is
better than several small ones, and
I th rug ahould be heavy enough to
keep Its plsee on th floor and not
rumple up under active little feat or
drag about when toys or chairs are
moved.
Everything ahould be planned for
fresh, sweet cleanliness. And the
nursery should be given a thorough
cleaning oftener than any other room
In the house. A big rug. for this
reason. Is much better than a nailed
down carpet: and woodwork should
be whit or very light In color so that
a weekly washing win be necessary
for the sake of looks at least. Marks
of little fingers and boots will not
snow on dark woodwork and a
Ttwa'Houae
Gown" by BuUoz
iVm"Blue Velvet, and
ChmeseImbr.Oidery
and.a bit severe In their street clothes,
but their house gowns, mad. In Paris
for the moat part, are exquisitely
graceful and add not a little to the
leisurely charm of an English draw
Ing room at tea hour.
One recalls the house gown of a
lovely English hostess of high degree
who dispensed a beautiful hospitality
in her home outside of London. One
of these charming gowns was of
brown chiffon with a skirt In many
fluttering flounces, and a tunle bodice
caught In at the waistline under a
knotted sash of orange and gold silk.
Another gown waa of gray net cov
ered with steel beads, hung in straight
lines over an undersllp of dull blue
silk and girdled with a wide belt of
steel beads clasped wtth a. ruby and
crystal bead ornament.
Dainty Slippers Demanded By The
House Gown,
An opportunity for the display of
enchanting footwear la afforded by
the new fashion for house aowna nt
luxurious fabric The smart buttoned
boots of formal wear are discarded
when the clinging, trailing, at home
costume is donned for such a costume
calls for exquisitely pretty slippers
and silk stockings in matching shade.
With house gowns In . yellow, gold,
orange and brown tones bronze kid
slippers seem to be the favorite sort;
and glased kid slippers In pastel tints
are matched to house costumes of
delicate hue. Gold and silver cloth
will be tempted to forego
ly wiping down of the walls.
door frames. Only such
ind hangings as can be
taken down and laundered
adorn the nursery windows.
will be beet to have two sets,
shades; white or pale tan shades
use during the day, and dark
green shade for night use and for
afternoon nap hour. Children will
sleep later In the morning In a well
darkened room; like the birds they
are awake and a-twltter with the first
peep o' light a habit most . distress
ing to worn out parents who yearn
for another forty wlnka In tho early
morning.
Yellow, the sun color. Is the Ideal
tint for a nursery. Pale yellow,
orange, a touch of blue, and white
In woodwork, make a delightful color
scheme. Pink should be avoided in
the nursery, and lavender Is a color
that does not appeal either. An en
chanting nursery that the Scribe
knows of has whK woodwork and
walls tinted light yellow from picture
moulding to within four feet of the
baseboard, and deep yellow below. Be
tween the two yellows runs a two-
"8
I less maid
the week
I sills anfd
curtains
readily
should
slid It
rfor
THE StTNDAT CITIZEN, JANUAET 21," 1917.1
. f SMI
Th.3upe
nodelol
Brocado.
Tax.
Trimmm
en Lines
slippers are not worn wtth such gowns
for they suggest the splendor and
formality of a bona fide evening cos
tume.
That Paris Is being closely imitated
In this new fad of house gowns, or at
noma gowns. Is proved by the won
derful models now being exhibited in
the shops; superb affairs, not includ
ed with the day and evening frocks
displayed in the "dressmaking salons"
but special models in glass cases so
placed that . no one can fall to note
the new lines of these wonderful cos
tumes. Two such models occupied
one glass case, and many a wom
an paused to exclaim over the love
ly lines and really thrilling color
effects. One house gown was of chif
fon In a straight robe-like garment
falling from nock to foot
Ilnea, but loft open at
foot In unbroken
the sides to
reveal an undersllp
of gold tissue.
Inch atrip of gray and Just above the
trip all around the room are pasted
pictures of animals, birds and chil
dren; some In motion, some at rest.
The pictures have been clipped from
ptoture books, magaalne. advertise
ments and the like; some are In color,
some in printed black and white, and
some In silhouette effect all black.
Now and then a new treasure Is add
ed above the "picture rail" and the
little folks never tire of their fascinat
ing gallery. This : pale yellow and
white room has a rug In yellow, brown
.,
'i Hf',n ,
I '( Kvi-4
Cupids And Garlands Os Dainty Toilet Belonging And Playful Dwtck Kid
dle In The Washbasin.
AVorthModel
ofPlealedm, Drapery of
Gold Imbroid
ered 'Silk.
Crepe
The straight robe was pale saffron In
tone part way down and then deep
oraDge. Its sleeves were in kimono
style and the simple, straight lines
were most artistic. Through slashes
was drawn a sash of gold ribbon
which passed outside the chiffon In
front, but underneath at the back.
The second house gown was decidedly
Oriental and betrayed the Bakst in
fluence strongly. It appeared to be In
Turkish trouser effect with a trailing
coat of peacock blue chiffon and gold
lace. Some soft striped silk In gold
and peacock blue stripes fell from the
neck downward and was passed be
tween the knees and up again at the
back, giving the trouser effect. The
skirt portion was probably a large bag
of the silk with the lower corners
slashed off diagonally for the feet to
slip through. There was a beaded
belt In jewel semblance falling loose-
and blue tones, blue and whit cre
tonnes m the windows and chair and
window seat cushions in plain, blue
and plain yellow. There la a fireplace
with black andirons and a cozy fire
side chair with broad arms for the
snuggllng-up story-telling hour at
dusk.
Yellow Is a rather strident hue for
the wee baby whose divine right
seems to be pink or blue; but the
very little baby seldom has a special
nursery all to Itself. By the time It
comes to crib and nursery age, pink
Il
Ajtv "EncnarUrvfecTen"ry VKous
Govrn'ot? 'Silver Lace , Peach v
PinKCrepe andne-snPvnKatm
ly over the striped tunic and the gor
geous chiffon coat in blue and gold
swept quite to the floor at the back.
Russian House Gowns In Great Favor.
The Russian lines, simple, straight
and loosely ; girdled lend themselves
well to the house grown Idea and a
most attractive model, from Bulloi is
pictured. This Is a Russian gown of
blue velvet with flowing Chinese
sleeves and Chinese embroidery in
peachblow and pale mala in trim
ming bands. The skirt is laid In
loose, pleats and the waist portion is
cleverly cut in circular manner which
brings' fullness at -the belt while the
shoulders are ungathered. Another
house gown with straight lines that
show. off to advantage a sumptuous
blue and sliver brocade, has an un
dersllp of gray chiffon and full chif
fon sleeves. Bands of gray fox fur
edge the foot of the gown and define
a stralght-across decoWataire. A mod
est decolleUge Is Insisted upon In the
house gown which has Its inception In
the government edict against conven
tional evening dress.
The Jenny house gown of silver
lace has a drapery that falls com
pletely over the upper part of the
figure and the arms. This Is exceed
ingly graceful, if a trifle Inconvenient,
for one wonders how Its wearer would
serve afternoon tea with her arms
thus swaddled. The silver lace drap
ery, however, can be thrown back
over the shoulders at least one would
have to manage that way. It seems.
This dainty at home costume la made-'
and blue have became a bit passe.
Part of a very luxurious nursery, how
ever. Is the baby's bed pictured part
of such a nursery as every little moth
er dreams of for the Incalculable
treasure that Is hers. The dainty crib,
made of enameled wicker and with
adjustable sides that may be let down
wnen convenient, stands in a room
whose walls are hung with palest blue
satin on which ar festoons of pink
roses. The woodwork Is cream enamel
and all the furniture is cream enamel
wicker, the pretty crib, the fire screen
with panels of pale blue silk, the low
chairs cushioned also In pale blue,
and all th small-belongings for baby's
comfort. Thar is even a diminutive
cnevai mirror rramed . in cream
enamel, and if .the occupant, of the
room Is a girl ,$aby one is sure her
first uncertain steps will be taken in
the direction of 'that fascinating mir
ror! There Is also a little padded
chair the tiny wicker chair in which
every baby from time Immemorial
haa learned to alt up. Seat, back and
arms of this chair are padded with
pale blue silk and the tray la of
cream naraid wood.
Th crib ha been turned into a
day-bed for - every' baby. If ah la
fashionable, must have her luxurious
day-bed Just now. The drapery Is
of roee-flovered whit chiffon over
pal blue, soiree atlk. - with -an -edge-trlmmlng
of net frilling. The down
quilt is covered with pale blue soiree
allk embroidered delicately la white
and pink, and th email pillows hav
mbrolderesl mull slip over blno allk.
Small belongings for the baby ar
of peach pink crepe, flesh pink satin
and wide silver lace. Silver and rose
brocade ribbon la tied, aash fashion,
around the skirt above - the . knees.
Slippers of flesh pink glased kid, with
stockings - to match, .accompany - the
gown.
Typical of the house of Callot Is
the flowing house gown of superb
fabrics and arresting - color scheme.
Nothing Callot Soeurs make la ever
Insignificant; one simply cannot pass
a Callot model by. This house gown
of rose satin, rose end silver brocade
and palest rose, chiffon is Intricate
and subtle in line; and the shimmer
ing rose tints are caught, and held In
one splendid touch of glowing rose
color at the girdle where a deep
pink rose Is posed against a draped
belt of dull Nattier blue. This Is one
of the fascinating at home gowns
that have been nick -named In Paris
"Vampire gown." Nothing wore al
luring In woman's dress has ever been
designed, . the couturiers Insist, than
these clinging, floating, artfully In
formal house gowns. Of course, they
cost a good deal of money for their
simplicity Is offset by richness and
splendor of material, and the work
manship must be perfection Inside
and out In a costume so sheer. But
Paris usually puts perfect workman
ship Into the least of her efforts no
meretricious sewing with ' unsightly
thread that does not match or will
soon fall to match delicately tinted
fabrics, .as one finds occasionally in
American costumes whose manufac
turers take advantage of woman's
carelessness by substituting cheap
thread for silk.
Catch any French woman being de
ceived this way! Of all the hand
sqme house gowns pictured, perhaps
the Worth model' Is the handsomest,
because of Its superb shawl drapery
of gold thread embroidered silk crepe,
this gold embroidered mantle In flam
color, above an nnderdress of finely
pleated tobacco brown soiree silk.
3 i t.
Posing "As A Fashionable "Day-Bed"
la This IioxBrioasly Draped Crib
Wlti Adjustable Side.
In keeping with th crib, and mirror.
There ar ribbon trimmed hangers
for tiny coats. - a .' white - enameled
"tree" for baby's night clothe when
not in use, and wlckar wardrobes and
chiffoniers for th saf -keeping ot
little frocks and petticoats; all the
receptacle ltnd 1 with 'padded 'and
perfumed allk. , A little swaahatand of
enameled wood Is , supplied with aX
!
ii
JCate .Oreenaway set of china 'and Tv
von the . toilet aspurUnaooeawthe
brush, comb .and 'powder Jar,' are la
cream, pink and pal blue. i
if
Y
.Vl -j.irw.;