THE SOTTDAY CITIZEN", FEBRUARY 4; 191T. :v.f 1 .... . . i 1 I JfS 'Vl of Pale Yellow I yy liTSw by t Georgette -wiu I" 17 . . r-X j I . f Beaded A.TTnhol33 I X ",i:l .'I'iX ft Vi llT' -. ' and Much fend TuckT ; III h& f.: '"'V-v f" ' fj . t- . !t Many Tuck and "Bullon3 Closely dyouped. jLiim tne nevv net wavst- ) he Beau Bmrmmel Trill i a Noleworlhy Feature Chemise Tunics of Chiffon MoslGracefulGarment In Woman's Wardrobe In Years - Button In Back Models and Short Sleeves A gain Favored By Fashion - Cashmere Sport Shirts. c- i HE oew coring Dlousei are o oft and sheer that most of them can ba drawn through a bracelet, and In consequence fraca and daintiness are their salient characteristics, chiffons, crepe Georgette, softest silks, washable satin, lac and crepe de chine are the materials used for (he more dressy models, the matinee and coatumo blouses which will accompany spring ' tailored suits of silk, serge and the wool and mofaalr weave which Is so fashionable in Paris Just now. Sport blouses, and the simpler tub models for wear with separate skirts, of which there ' are numberless new styles, are of washable silks, hand kerchief linen and organdy the lat ter fabric having a tremendous vogue for blouse wear just now. New and excessively smart Is the cashmere port shirt, a trimly mannish affair with link cuffs and turnover collar like a masculine negligee shirt, and . cut amply to fit in the loose, graceful manner desired"- without gathers or tucks at the shoulder. These cash : mere blouses have been the rage at Aiken during the winter sport 'season and have been worn with riding and golfing costumes by the women whose word on dress is authoritative. The finest all-wool cashmere is used whit cashmere almost Invariably and the blouse Is stitched within and without with silk thread, even the seams showing this mark of exclusive finish. The white cashmere blouses are supposed to lnunder satisfactorily and t hey will if very carefully treated and not submitted to very hot water, too strong a soap or too hot an Iron but dry cleaning Is the best way to freshen them, and most wom en buy four or five so that there may be no delay while soiled models are at the cleaner's. Colored Organdy Combined With White. A great many of the dainty organdy blouses show touches of color and some sre of colored organdy with white touches. The "color" Is In variably the palest tint, for daintiness is the keynote in new blousewear, and only flesh pinks, soft, faint blues, a creamy tan and palest daffodil yel lows are permitted. Colored blouses of this sort have fine hand embroid eries done in white, rlosely set rows of small pearl buttons and narrow hems of white organdy for trimming. The white blouses show narrow hems In color and lines of embroidery in the new "running-stitch or "darning-stitch," done with ordinary bbw ing silk. This new embroidery Is the I i-raae in farm now ana is put on frocks as well as blouses. When there are several lines of the darnlng stltch put close together In shaded tonos of one color, the effect is very dainty, and the trimming may outline straight edges or be curved In scroll effect. Pintnrks KveTywherp. Fullness, this year, is almost In variably put In with plntucks so that thoro Is no effect of bulkiness any- Chif Porv Tunics or "Chemise "Blouses ". are Lied in wiUh. aof 1 Sash ...,,!V3.:: ' iiiMi Blouse Co11ht.3.va11 Lie Tlal andleeye are Full BelcwlheEVbovf where. Plntucks are run in across the shoulders at back as well as front, and sometimes groups of fhese tiny tucks control the fullness of the sleeve, above the cuff. In several of today's pictured blouses you will note the dainty plntucklng that Is so much more fashionable than shining or gathers. In the chiffon chemise Mouse, one of the prettiest and smart est models pictured, the plntucks are simply laid In the material at top of sleeve and edge of yoke and are not stitched below, but the effect Is much softer than would be the case had gathering threads been used. These chemise blouses are delightful addi tions to woman's wardrobe no other garment brought out recently has possessed more grace. Such a blouse is becoming to any figure, even a stout one. for the material falls so softly and the knotted sash may be adjusted high or low to suit the lines of the silhouette. The blouse pictured Is of flesh pink chiffon with running stitch embroidery such as has been de scribed, done with two shades of pink sewing silk on epaulet-yoke and cuffs. The blouse is entirely made by hand sae for the hemstitching and plcot edge on cuff and collar. These chemise tunics come In white and pale colors and also In navy blue, plum, brown and other dark shades. Net Blouses Over Colored Idnlnga. Another evidence of the fancy for color In blousewear Is the placing of tinted linings under airy net blouses. liiV;''':: ' Alport Blouse in simple Tailored .Lyle.but Fashioned or oLL White wa'Sh.aPie yaun These linings are usually of chiffon or I chiffon like the sleeves. Collar pnn very thin allk for there must be no i cuffs are of the silk. Another fasten suggestion of substantiabllity about In-back blouse cornea from Suzanne the spring blouse. The lining Is quite Lievaln. This model Is made of yel separate from the blouse and Is pro- j low Georgette and fits very loosely, vlded with sleeves so that the color, bagging over the waistline, while or tint, shows through the net every- sash ends of the material coming from where. One may have a pale blue! the back, are knotted over the skirl lining, a pale pink nnd a pale yellow j In front. I'ointed epaulcls and collar lining for one's not blouse, or wear It i sections of cream fllet lace, a bead over an elaborate lace brasslero In ; tassel swinging from each of the four pure white. The net blouse pictured j points, outline a shallow square dec is a good model In the tailored style, j olletage. And by the way, the square Groups of tucks on blouse and sleeve j necked blouse Is tremendously the are very effective as trimming and thing if one can wear It. The V the wide collar and cuff, fitted with shaped neck opening Is much more plntucks are exceedingly smart. The ; becoming to the average woman, and broad Jabot frill Is a modish note of let her who Is past the dimpled days this season that should not be over-; of youth beware of the round or Dutch looked. These graceful frills escape from the unfastened fronts of new spring Jackets though the blouse, col lar and cuffs are hidden under the Jacket. The line of closely set but tons down the front is another im portant style detail for spring. Some of the French blouses of white net have short sleeves quite above the elbow with little plisse frills at the edge. Delightfully pretty are these new elbow-sleeved models which will surely be Immediately taken up wtth enthusiasm, once they become known to American women; for nobody loves a long sleeve in summer time. The short sleeve blouse, however. Is In tended only for dressy wear at mat inee or restaurant, or at home In the afternoon, and there is absolutely no authority for wearing anything but a long Bleeve with any other sort of blouse. Button-In-Back Models Appear Again. Not a few of the new blouses fasten at the back and one of these models Is pictured, a costume blouse of daf fodil Georgette, with many plntucks and some beads. This Is an over-the-walstline model, and the outer tunic has very large armholes outlined with beads. The sleeves are drawn Into narrow bracelets trimmed with the beads, tiny frills of the Georgette fall ing over the hand at the outer side. The tiny white "milk" beads are sewed in groups on Nattier blue vel vet ribbon and make a striking trim ming for the blouse. A Paquln button-In-back blouse Is made of soiree silk neck, which is coming in again. Wash Blouses Of Silken Material. Two very exclusive tub blouses are pictured; one of white washable sattn and the other of flesh pink washable crcre. Either of theu waists will be suitable with a sport suit of more formal type or with a tailored street suit for Bpring. The washable satin blouse is a very good example of tho best type of tailored sport blouse. Its lines are simple but the cut is master ly, loose and graceful lines are achieved without undue fullness and the collar has the new flat line now prescribed by fashion. Flaring col lars are no more and the new blouse alms at simplicity about the neck, re vealing Instead of disguising the charming lines of throat and shoulder. The sport blouse invariably fastens at tho front and has long sleeves fitted Into cufTs. The washable satin model pictured has regulation coat sleeves of mannish type; the blouse of wash able crepe shows the new full sleeve, quite flat at the armhole but bulging to generous width below the elbow and then tapering in again at the wrist- This blouse . Is very dainty, both In color and material. There are hemstitched tucks across front and hack and the small collar, slashed Into points at the sides. In trimmed with crochet ball buttons. These buttons weight a narrow tie of flesh pink silk and weight dangling ornaments on the sleeves. Over-the-walst blouses are shown In many materials; one of the prettiest In white, flesh or yellow, with sleeves models comes from Cheruit and Is of of matching chiffon. The back fas-I citron-colored crepe de chine, hand- tens with three silk-covered buttons I embroidered with blue beads. E-ery placed on an oblique flap, and the 1 Cheruit blouse has pockets of one sort front drapes Itself In a sort of re- j or another and this model shows them versed hood effect to show a vest of I outlined with rows of the tiny beads. fhion Pul (Special &2?pJ)3&j& on ff&nd&3 CHE handbag Is now almost as important nn item of the cos tume as the boot and that Is saying a good deal for women have been putting a good deal of stress on the footwear question dur ing the last few years But a smart and modern handbag one must carry, or own to a serious blot on one's sartorial escutcheon, nnd moreover, since the handbag Is n'.w a composite part of the correct toilette, several different kinds of baRs must be num bered among ones supply; for the bag carried with the tailored suit would never, never do with a formal afternoon costume, or vice versa. Unfortunauiy. just i hen one must have so many of thfte preity trifles, the price of handbagv Is sipadily soar Ing. One reason for tills Is the short age of leather pin ul and mororco. old standby for handbag use, are al most impossible to obtan in sufficient quantity. Skilled labor is also scarce; handbag makers exprt In tbelr art are usually foreigners and most of them are now fighting for their coun tries Instead of making hags for wom en's use. The dearth of le.-ther means of course, fabric bags in great num ber, but the reticules of silk, velvet and Paisley are so charming that no one gives a regretful thoncht to tt neat leather affairs that used to swing from feminine fingers. As might be I palllngly expensive and cost up to rxpci-toil. though, now that all the ! thirty or forty dollars each, but there feminine world has taken to carrying 1 are models of black satin trimmed fabric handbag, women who must be exclusive and ultra smart are de manding leather bags Just to be dif ferent! The exceedingly chic bag for spring, therefore, is of glazed kid to match (he soft kid of the boot, and l win or.lers are Riven by milady these 'I;ms, one order going to the boot maker for a pair of distracting but toned walking boots of fine glared kid and the other order to a bacmaker for a spring handbag of exactly the same material. These new glased kid baes have metal frames Another re version tf an aforetime fashion and sometimes frames of delicately etched or engraved silver of course, such a bag is exquisitely lined and fitted with mirror, change purse and vanity belongings. These new kid bags are quite dif ferent In appearance from the prim, plain leather bags of a few seasons aito The shapes are very fanciful an t an oval or melon design seems best liked As oval as a pigskin foot tall Is a smart little bag of pale tan ti!azed kid Just from Tarls. The frame is of composition, bordered with small rhinestones and the handle is flat, like a leather strap. Some of the Paisley bags are ap- wlth Paisley that may be had for from five to ten dollars. Fifteen dol - lars Is really a modest price to pay for a smart bag Just now and twenty dollars is not exorbitant if one can afford to be particular about the small belongings of the costume. The pouch- shaped bag is most favored In Paisley I and the top of the bag is drawn up on ' rings through which the cord handles run. or by a gilt or silver gate-top: with slender chain handle. Such a bag, in long and very narrow pouch shape, has around its oenter or widest portion, three rows of narrow black : satin ribbon, closely pleated. Jade j bracelets and silk tassels attached to small Jade rings may be bought, all I ready to attach to pouch handbags I made at home. A nimble fingered woman can evolve a very stunning i bag In this way, out of a bit of old j Chinese brocade or Paisley shawl ma terial Very smart Indeed Is such a bag, made of black soiree silk headed i round the center with steel and i green beads, and mounted with Jade ; bracelet bandies, a inde ring and tas- j set depending from the bottom. Snake j handles are also popular on these! pouch bags. The snake, made of beads and holding Its tail In Its mouth makes a bracelet, and a pair of snakes make twin bag handles. One handsome bag with bracelet handles is made of a strip of ancient Chinese embroidery in wonderful shades of Chinese blue, pale apricot and cherry-blossom pink. Tellow and black are blended with these colors In the border. The bracelet handles are of imitation amber and the hand- eome tassels are of silk combining the shades in the Chinese embroidery, i Another bag Is beaded allover in pale ! gray with a leaf design In green and j green letters In a wreath of pink- , shaded roses. This bag boasts a hammered silver frame and silver chain handle. Very beautiful examples of sprl.tg reticules are two other beaded bags. The pouch shape Is used in both In stances though one bag has a head ing above the drawstrings and the other Is finished with a narrow silk puffing. The larger bag is of French blue panne velvet with steel beading at top and bottom and very Interest ing ropo handles made of steel beads. The other bag is entirely covered with bronze green beads and the handlee , , ''' ; ' h' ., -'.. .- - ' - T v - , V' J F3L' 2 Ik W T v: J T1 J ,v.- . Astonishing, How Many Things Can Go On A Theatre Bag! One Count, Here, Gold Lace, White Lace, chiffon. Silk Flowers, Tinted Silk And Even Batiste embroidery. A tt-ench Blue Velvet I lag Wtth Steel Beads And Beaded Handles; And Another llig, Pouch-Shaped And Solidly Beaded In Bronae-Green, are of black ribbon. Until one un dertakes to revive one's past-and-gone accomplishment of beadwork, the late advance In steel bead prices has not Interested one greatly; and one la apt to be rather overcome by It. Beads that used to be 10 cents a string are now It cents, and many of the stores are out of the beads and cannot prom ise when they will have more. Two elaborate evening bags are typical examples of bag luxury for spring. Evening bags are growing larger and now hold a number ol things beside kerchief and opera glass One of these bags Is of gold lace and French blue soiree silk, with a posy of gold roses and a cape collar of ! fancy In a theatre bag fine machlns i embroidery mounted on real Val . enctennes lace. The other bag Is a I very capacious affair made of pale pink satin, shirred lace, gold and pink galloon and bands of ruffled net on which ai e festoons of pink and mauve silk rosebuds.