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THE SUNDAY. CXIZEN, APEIL 1, '..101.T:
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Burella, Velours de Laine, Gabardine and Wool Jer
sey Favored Coat Materials -Full or Seven-Eighths
' Length AsOnePleases-Tussah for Late Spring
Weqr-TheCoat-DressaSprmgInspiration.
t LMOST a difficult as separating
tb sheep , from tb oU la
eparatlnf the frocks from the
I coats, .this season. The coat-
frock la an innovation of springtime
which meets such a practical need that
'It has undoubtedly come to stay
for a time at least Nothing- remains
rery long In this day of evanescent
fashions except the worsted sweater
which women simply will not give up.
Naxt week we are coins; to talk about
the now and alluring 117 sweaters
but, of course, that Is another story;
coats are on the carpet, 'as one, might
say, today.
TO return to coat-frocks which are
the fad of the hour; they look like
frocks but act like coats. They have
the dainty, svelte lines of a frock.
rather than the smartly bulky lines
of a topcoat, yet they may be worn.
If one so chooses, over a thinner frock
and behold! one is ready for sev
eral week-end occasions. Or. for In
stance, you decide to do a day's shop
ping in town and have a dinner and
bridge engagement, also In town, for
the evening: or you may be going to
meet your husband for a restaurant
dinner and a theatre afterward. In
the morning, you put on the dainty
silk and chiffon theatre frock which
is rather short for dancing and over
It goes the tailored coat-frock which
falls an inch or two over the buttoned
boot top, hiding the . silk frock en
tirely. The coat-frock with its loose
lines and knotted sash. Its light weight
wool fabric, unllned. cannot Injure I
the costume beneath as much as an
ordinary coat would; and the coat
frock removed In the restaurant dress
ing room leaves you beautifully ap
pareled for the evening.
One of the new coat-frocks Is shown
In an Illustration today. You will note
the trim, graceful lines more like a
tailored frock than a coat; yet the col
lar conveys the coat suggestion, and
the garment Is really a coat, made to
slip on over a lighter frock If de
sired. Perhaps the distinctive coat
quality of the coat-frock is to be found
on its inner side. Of course, any gar
ment worn as a coat must be Irre
proachable within as without, for It
may be flung over a chair or Intrusted
to an escort at any moment of Its
career. Few of the coat-frocks are
sewed with matching silk. No first
class tailored costume is ever sewed
With a cheap substitute for silk thread.
Mediocre manufacturers sometimes
seek to save a few pennies by this
method but the canny woman shopper
will have none of it! As to material,
the pictured coat-fr6ck is made of tan
Burella cloth with touches of brown
silk embroidery at the waistline, brown
bone buttons and a very smart col
lar of brown velvet, attached to a
standing collar of military extraction.
Silk Coats Popular In Paris.
In Paris, these days, one buys a silk
coat by way of economy; a wool coat
if one wishes to splurge into extrava
gance. While so much wool woven
material Is required for uniforms at
lined, though some of them have a i the front, serges are exceedingly ex-
silk lining half way to the waistline. ' pensive in Frauce, and only the fash
Lightness and trimness are prime re- j ionables are wearing serge coats and
quirements and anything that might ' frocks. The sitk coats of Paris are
cause bulk must be avoided: but seams ! charming and are bound to have their
are carefully pressed and finished and effect on this season's fashion. The
of course, all seams and details are I dark blue faille matinee coat, and the" Is done by hand with sewing silk, long
flowered silk model pictured today are
copies of French garments and both
are Ideally suited to late spring and
summer wear. The faille matinee coat
Is In a very dark blue shade the
darkest possible blue and has a deep
collar of black soiree silk. The knotted
ash which ties toward the back at
one side is also of black soiree and
sash and panels the latter tailing
over the shoulders under the collar
have tassels of dark blue silk. Many
buttons covered with tha coat ada
tertal, with-flanklng rows of embroid
ered buttonhole-motifs, are set along
slashes In the skirt of the coat 'The'
slashes are sewed, together with slot
seams and do not fly open, but they
make an effective trimming. This coat
covers, the' frock entirely and should
prove a very practical wrap for all
summer wear.
The flowered silk coat also conceals
the frock fceneath and hi so light In
welght'wttt.so idAjnty tblttfcfct;he
..J.r .hiM SliDU.1 lflBULnrlv tffl all
women swap JJke.;a wrap at this jort
to wear over evening rrocas ror res
taurant dining, or sheer, summery
frocks desirable for warm evenings
vet too filmy to be worn uncovered
through the street Cheruit designed
the original of this dainty flowered
coat which, as pictured, is of warp
printed taffeta with little rose-colored
flowers on a ground of mauve shot
with pink. Smocking In a diamond
shaped motif controls the fullness at
the back, and at the sides and front,
the skirt Is smocked in rows below
the waistline, the upper part fitting
the figure trimly. A shawl collar of
white soiree silk turns back over a
collar of the flowered taffeta. A black
Users straw hat draped with a black
lace veil seems exactly the right sort
of millinery with this gay flowered
coat.
Tussab Coats For The Country Club.
The white tussah coats are the love
liest things Imaginable In the way of
summer wraps. Of course, such a
coat is not for knockabout wear. It
will soil easily though it may be
cleaned almost as easily, and Its sug
gestion Is dainty dressiness, rather
than practical utility. A model seen
recently was of white tussah with an
applique band trimming on the collar
and appliques of the same handsome
embroidery on a wide belt decorated
with the new running stitch so fash
ionable in Paris lust now. This stitch
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and short stitches alternating and the
long stitches coming on the outside.
Motor Coats In Brilliant Shades.
One has become so accustomed
thanks to the Influence of sports wear
to orafige and coral and geranium
out-of-door garments that , a vivid coat
in an automobile . no,. Jonger- catches
andrholda ffcfijfeeyeV fifnew mofbH
ooats for sprthg sire .sheerf til affairs.
colors shame Rolomon tn all his glory.
They are big-collared, . big-pocketed,
graceful coats with a deal of material
In sweeping flare from collar to hem.
and the material Is ' controlled by
cleverly placed -belts-Into trim lines.
They are built of velours de laine. of
Bolivia, of duvetyn, of cashmere, of
Burella and of trlcotlne and some of
them have most attractive linings. A
Callot motor coat is of gold colored
duvetyn with gray suede trimmings
and a lining of petunia soiree silk. An
other stunning French coat is of heavy
satin in oxidised silver tone with a
lining of hemlock green satin, the
green appearing on collar and cuffs in
deep facings. , There are motor, ooata,
also' of pontine, a sensible-waxed ma
terial that sheds the rain and Ignores
the mist as casually as the leather it
o closely resembles. Pontine has a
reverse -side of silk or doth and -this
Is usually, in some bright contrasting
shade. An,orapge.ppntineshot6r coat
with reverse vide in hemtock-green ,U
being made now for , April bride.
tn aire tnm their fnt due. and their I Who will wear It onhsr Jxonoyon
trip. Practical ror moionng : ana
traveling are topcoats of warnr" yet
light-weight wool In overp'ald effects
in brown, green and gray tones. These
coats have been popular with English
women for many years and American
women jaro beginning to find how in
dispensable these warm, soft, easy-to-carry
and hard-to-hurt topcoats art
for spring, summer and rutumn wear.
Sport coats are innumerable and
irresistible this year. The model pic
tured Is an attractive one of eorn
colored Bolivia cloth with Harlequin
checks of orange velvet on the oorn
colored fabric.
The Chinese Maiden's Garb Is Fashionable
EVBRAXi young society women,
V this winter, have worn the fern
inlne costume of China at cos-
V tume balls, and other affairs
given In aid of war sufferers. .Some
of these costumes have been extremely
handsome and many of them have
been purchased in China by the fair
wearers. Such a costume was worn
recently by the daughter of an Ameri
can naval officer at a large costume
ball in San Fraaclaoo and so dainty
and becoming was the Chinese maid
en's garb on the American maid who
wore the quaint tunic and trousers,
that several women present decided
forthwith to have boudoir suits exactly
like It. To have real character, how
ever, the Chinese suit must be picked
up in China. Such a suit may be
copied here, but unless made of the
richest silks It will prove a failure
The tunic must be of such rich, heavy
silk that it will stand well out from
the figure with a Jaunty swing over
the hips, and, of course, the tunle is
richly lined and is trimmed with bands
of embroidery or brocade. The trousers
are of soft yet heavy silk and art
very full. They fall over a gathering
thread or elastic Just above the ankle,
and short-toed, heelless Chinese slip
pers are absolutely necessary to gtyg
the final touch of correctness to tht
costume.
HCTTS FO Jt THE IIOCSEWIFE.
, When a pan of cake comes from the
yea, set it for a moment on a wet
cloth. Tou will have no difficulty,
then. In removing even the thinnest
layer-cake, whole and unbroksn from
the baking tin.
A good thing to remember is that
milk will extinguish flames from gaso
line quickly and effectually. The milk
forms an emulsion with the oil where
as water spreads It and Increases the
danger of a serious conflagration.
This fact should be committed to
" memory, along with the antidotes for
certain poisons, and some simple
rules for "quick aid" In case of accidents.
VCll a crowing and a cackling,
a buzzing and a chirruping and
a purring, would resound from
the department of favors these
duys If the Easter novelties had
voices. All the barnyard is represent
ed, the forest world too for the bun
nies can hardly be called barnyard in
habitants and some of St. Valentine's
favors seem to have strayed into the
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Easter display, for bisque cupids are
everywhere'; these, of course, for the
Easter wedding repasts. Wedding
favors play such an important part In
the Easter season that no Easter favor
display Is complete without the cupids,
white ribbons, satin slippers and so
on, which will give bridal flavor to the
Easter wedding breakfast or supper
table.
Bees are now a feature of Easter
favor departments. The busy bee Joins
in the Jollification that proclaims win
ter past and summer at hand. A new
Jack Horner pie In the shape of a
giant hive Is a most attractive center
piece for the supper table at a holiday
party for Easter week. Vines stray
over the hive, which la made of crepa
paper braided Into ropes and pasted
a most gallant white Chanticleer with
a dashing whip of white wood and rib
bon. The steeds are perfectly matched
brown rabbits, the reins, long white
ribbons. The favors are hidden under
the hay (which is made of crepe paper
cut into tiny strips), and to the end
of each favor ribbon is tied a downy
yellow chick. What youngster but
will be thrilled at the vision of this
splendid Easter chariot with its rab
bit team, rooster driver and chicks i
The black cat of Hallowe'en as
sumes a snow white coat for the
Easter season, and sheds several years,
becoming an adorable kitten again.
The white pussies of Easter are al
most as much beloved by the children
as the white bunnies, and blue and
over a cardboard foundation, and loops J Pnk neckties are In order for both.
Cater The Barnyard Proceasloa For Faster I The Stords Are Gallant Rabbits,
Tb Drives CxuLnttdcer, The Passengers Dozens Of Downy Easter Chicks.
of white ribbon emerging from the
hive are attached to Easter favors
instead of sections of honeycomb as
might be supposed. One of these bee
hive Jack Homers will be the central
feature of interest at a luncheon to be
given to a prospective bride Just be
fore Easter, and a shower of linens
will repose within the hive, each tissue-wrapped
package attached to one
of the white ribbon loopa And. of
course, there will be divers verses call
ing attention to the similarity between
the busy bee and the excellent house
wife who improves each shining hour.
For a children's party, surely. Is the
delightful Jack Horner, which takes
the form of a load of hay, driven by
There are white puppies too, chubby
little things that are as cunning as
the white kittens; and then there are
the chickens and the goslings mil
lions of them, one feels sure, seeing
the displays in every window and en
the favor counters In the shops. There
are real chirks toe, poor little mites,
hobbling about behind the glass of
poultry store windows. One rather
pities the captive Chicks, so far from
their' natural environment; yet they
seem quite oblivious of. the peering
eyes outside the plats glass which Is
their only barnyard fence
The eonfectioaera and candy shops
make the bravest display at Easter
time. Some of the Easter bonbon
boxes are wonderful affairs and one
pays tidy prices for them. Candy
boxes that may be turned into work
baskets or Jewel cases are luxurious
affairs lined with satin, and the bon
bons are carefully packed In layers of
oiled paper so that the handsome re
ceptacle may not be soiled. A very
dainty Easter gift box. Intended for a
work-basket is egg-shaped and Is
made of white celluloid with the nar
row part cut across for a lid. The
interior la lined with silk, and Is sup
plied with small gilt sewing imple
ments. The candy hampers are very
attractive They are made of stained
wicker and are tied about with broad
ribbon through which Is thrust an
Easter lily or some other flower. When
the candy la gone the wicker basket
may be used for a catch-all on the
dresser.
The most fascinating Easter recep
tacles are to be found In the flower
shops. Wicker hampers five to seven
Inches high are filled with wet sand
and have spring flowers peeping from
beneath the half-closed lid when sent
out as Easter gifts. Later the hamper
may be lined with silk and do duty at
a glova basket
Vases of flowers make lovely gifts
at Easter season for nobdy can have
too many graceful flower vases. They
always come into use sometime and
vases of various sises and heights ac
commodate various sorts of flowers In
their seasons. The slender silver vases
that hold a single long-stemmed rose
or spray of narcissus make delightful
Easter gifts; there are the larger vases,
too, of Venetian glass or Iridescent
glass or even the beautiful favrile
glass If one wants to pay a good price.
Just now fern dishes for the table are
out of fashion and every hoasewlte
wants several of the low bowls with
center block of pierced glass or pot
tery which, holds the stems of flowers
separately.' Tables In the basement of
every large shop are crowded with
these popular flower holders, these
days, and the variety In shape and
color seems endless. Some people pre
fer the white, er transparent glass
bowls; others like the tinted glass;
still others consider the colored pot
tery bowls most attractive. There are
green bowls, black bowls, yellow bowls
and bowls of a wonderful deep blue.
and, of course. It is very nice to have
half a dosen sorts so that various color
schemes in table decoration may be
carried out
Place cards and favors for Easter
weddings divide honors with novelties
In the candy and flower shops. The
place cards are very dainty and orig
inal and the decorations Include brides
in wedding veils, bridal cabs with
white ribboned baggage strapped on
behind, bride parasols and bride
bouquets, all done in water color on
white cardboard. China cupids are
used for place favors and a pretty
conceit Is a little China cupid sitting
In a white slipper. At the bridesmaid's
luncheon which precedes the wedding
ceremony by a day or two, the bride
presents her little remembrances to
her attendant maids, and though the
remembrances may be little, they do
not always represent a little price.
One of this Easter's brides Is giving
each of her six bridesmaids a small
opera glass In a beaded opera bag.
Fans are popular gtfta Some brides
gtve parasols at the Easter season
when summer Is so near. And there
ire always bracelets and brooches for
remembrance. A very charming gift
la a photograph frame mads of the
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Sow Doth The Busy Bee Join In Tta
Easter JoUlncatlons. This Is A
Bee Hive Jack Horner And The
Ribbons Draw Forth Favors
Instead Of Hooey.
same satin that goes Into the wedding
gown, with the bride's Initials worked
In gold thread across one corner and
the bride In her wedding robes la th
photograph frame, of course 1