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THE SUNDAY CITIZEN, JULY ' 29; 10173
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5om Fur On Ear7y A utumn Models -
Gray Hats In Great Vogue.
THERB hai been an attempt thl
year to Keep enureiy new laeai
(all millinery In the baolt-
rrouni In other wor Js, not to
Allow the treat eenaationi In hat-wear
to peep out of eeclualon prematurely.
that Im, before the Important opening
days in September. But woman must
now have her autumn hai by mld
Auguet; or must at least be making up
her mind, about that time, aa to what
ahe will appear In In the way of a
head covering the moment Labor
Day hai put the aeal of obloquy on
all forma of summer millinery; ao
oma hat have had to escape as
hostages for the fall season, and nat
urally Paris has seen to it that those
thai have escaped are sufficiently new
rAfld captivating to attract purchasers.
Turbans, Sailors And Mushrooms.
) All the new fall hats may be dlvld
. ed Into three classes: sailors,' turbans
and mushrooms. Any one of these
shapes may ( have a am crown, and
the tarn crown Imposed on a mush
room brim Is a feature of the early
fall millinery. Two of the pictured
hats show this idea, and one notes
that the silhouette of these hats la
quite decidedly new. The mushroom
of black silk beaver with a tarn crown
of old gold velvet is particularly new
and Interesting and this pretty little
shape should be becoming to most
faces. The scoop brim settles down
on the hair, yet the crown is well
raised above the band of ribbon trim
ming and the hat has sufficient height
to be symmetrical. Still higher and
incidentally a good deal , mora trying
to the face. Is tijS&other model with
rounded tarn crown bulging above a
steep' mushroom brim. This hat Is
made of black satin with soutache
embroidery over the top of the crown.
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Black
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.Sailor.
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Loops of soutache spring up between
the Joining of crown and brim and an
exaggerated silk tassel ornament gives
a military note to the hat
Soutache Decidedly The Hat Trim
ming Now. '
The new hats do not appear to bo
elaborately trimmed because the lines
are kept so simple and unbroken; but
there are rather... elaborate ..flat' trim
mings In the way of soutache embroid
ery, cross-stitch patterns in richly
blended colors, chenille embroidery
and bead bandings. The last named
are accompanied by beaded hatpins
and some of the hatpins support bead
tassels which swing against the hat
as a trimming motif when the pin Is
adjusted. A Reboux model for au
tumn restaurant wear Is of tjeige felt
and velvet, the felt brim having a
dashing, sombrero line and the velvet
tam crown showing an allover pattern
In self-tone soutache. There is abso
lutely no trimming on this model ex
cept the soutache. Chenille embroid
ery, spoken of just above, is shown
on one of the pictured hats. This Is
a graceful sailor of olive colored vel
vet with a self toned grosgrain ribbon
around the crown and chenille em
broidery in gold and olive on crown
and brim. The young woman who
likes sailor hats could not achieve a
smarter effect than this, yet the hat
Is so simple just a sailor with a bit
of ribbon and a few strands of coarse
wool embroidery! It Is a simplicity
that counts for much, however. In
style and ln distinction; this Is on of
ue Dest nata on toaays page.
Another graceful shape is pictured
In the hat of black panne velvet.
There Is a subtle curve to the broad
sailor brim and the crown Is rather
low but artistically balanced with the
brim proportions. The cluster of
roses and grapes in mauve and russet
tones seems exactly the note of per
fectlon needed to finish the hat. The
pose of thfs hat on the head Is grace
ful also, the brim dipping down at
the front just enough to shade the
eyes and tipping up at the back Just
enough to show the hair.
Turbans Have Becoming Lines.
It Is not necessary to make a spec
tacle of one's self in a tam or a mush
room. If one hs a strong, forceful
face which these coquettish styles do
not become. There are turbans for
Instance. And the new turbans for
fall are particularly soft and graceful;
they give the suggestion, of draped
fabric over pliable and not rigid
frames. There are small turban hats
ok" felt, too, with narrow brims, that
are very smart with tailored orna
ments of grosgrain ribbon. Such hats
are much more becoming to some
faces than the picturesque mushrooms
and tarns. The woman who wears
glasses, for example, no matter how
beautiful her countenance may be,
should not, as a rule, affect a saucy
tam hat. or a babyish mushroom one.
It Is well to dress up to eyeglasses.
They make a vast difference In the
becomingness and suitability of a hat.
Inevitably they add dignity if not
years to the prettiest face and make
pert and coquettish headgear look all
wrong. There Is Just one thing that
can make piquancy of expression sur
vive a plnce nez and that is a re
trousse nez, or as the French have It,
a nes retrousse. The tip tilted nose
simply cannot suggest dignity, though
it has plenty of other charming sug
gestions, good humor, vivacity, versa
tility, kindliness, and so on; and she
whose nes retrousse Is bestridden by
ever-so-dignllled specs can usually
wear mushroom hats, or tam o' aha ni
ters, or floppy brimmed picture hats
and hope to look well In them.
The velvet turban illustrated Is one
of the best of the new modejs. Against
the high roll of the brim on the right
side is a burnt ostrich ornament ons
of the many new feather "fancies"
that are evidently going to be so
fashionable next season. There are
oddly shaped wings, miniature fringes
of burnt peacock, pompons of coq,
and bands of pasted ooqu for mili
tary hats. Two smart little fan shaped
wings are shown on a new military
turban or "service cap;" the "cap"
of velvet and the visor brim of black
satin, while a conical crown of satin
rises from the center of the velvet
"cap." There are many hats of felt
in soft new shadings of olive, drab,
gray, beige and so on. Gray Is a
favorite color In millinery this year
and some of the new gray felt hats
with velvet crowns are beautiful.
Slnoe so little trimming Is used. It Is
possible to spend an extra amount on
the hat Itself, and a good hat Is al
ways a wise investment. Only exclu
sive and high priced hats come in
the most -desirable shapes and no
cheap model is quite large enough or
quite small enough to be really chic
In its proportions. Cheap hats also
are often sewed with cheap substitutes
for silk thread, and silk thread Is very
Important In a felt or velvet hat The
cheaper thread fades and collects dust
and ultimately robs the model of its
good style.
Sport Hats In Gay Autumn Colors.
Tartan plaid sport hats are the very
latest cry. They are made of tartan
plaid wool In soft flexible shape, the'
crown large and the brim rolling so
that the hat may be dragged any-which-way
on the head. The brim,
rolled back In front, discloses a co
quettish vteor of pleated velvet un
derneath. This shades the eyes and
adds a novel touch to the sport head
gear. Many white hats are shown for the
between-season beginning August fif
teenth or thereabout and lasting until
the formal millinery openings in Sep-'
tember. One Is a white plush turban
of rather distinctive shape. The only
trimming Is a wee bow of black moire
ribbon posed Just over one eye on the
steep brim.
The Coiffure's Correct Silhouette
HERB Is a very important point
to consider In the arrangement
of the hair the silhouette or
general line of the whole halr-
dresslng irrespective of details. It
matters not whether the hair is
done" high or low, whether one
wears a fringe,, or the brushed back.
brow-revealing effect so fashionable
at the moment One may wind long
St Cecelia plaits around the head, or
affect a fluffy knot at the crown-
all this la a matter of Individual taste
and personal becomingness; but the
silhouette of the whole arrangement
must conform to the lines Fashion
prescribes at the moment or one will
look hopelessly unmodlsh.
There are strong and Individual
characters who can adopt freakish
halrdresslngs and as the slangy lit
tle schoolgirl says: "Get away with
It;" but the average woman does well
to conform to fashionable lines, and
It may be remembered always, that
these lines can always be modified by
personal arrangements of the tresses
so that becomingness may be assured.
For example, the head of fashionable
woman looks rather small and delicate
these days the ideal Is, one assumes.
like a flower set exquisitely on Its
stem." Two women ' may have their
hair arranged In the same way, yet
one will look very smart and well
groomed, and the other commonplace
and undistinguished. WhyT All a
matter of silhouette I The tresses of
both are parted at one side; the ears
are covered with waved locks; at the
back there Is a compact knot But
one woman's hair has been brushed
till if la satin-smooth, shampooed tin
it is soft and fluffy of texture, waved
with patience and dexterity till It tip
ples evenly all over the head; and
then drawn loosely back from the
parting, over the ears into a knot
placed exactly In the right place, not
to make an excrescence on the line of
the head from crown to nape. The
other woman's hair because it Is not
kept religiously brushed, has way
ward ends and a tendency to separate
Into dank locks. It Is hastily curled
so that .the waves are angular and
uneven Instead of rippling and
smooth. And the waves are bulged ,
out at the sides over an artificial sup
portprime sin against Fashion's
mandate for the small, sleek head of
the moment! Last and worst of all,
the knot Is an inch too low, utterly
spoiling the silhouette from a profile
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flVOWN through the ages, in all
II ll th annali of history, will go
II If s accomP"hnlents of woman
. J In this devastating war of the
nations. Personal ambitions tempo
i rarily relinquished, petty jealousies
put aside, woman as a body, a glor
ious, self-lmmolatlng unit Is marching
under the great banner of the Red
Cross to relieve, to succor, to help,
fflaoso whose training and whose
e strength will permit It are going
- forth to help, as near the battle
.lines as they can get; those who
have duties at home that cannot
be relinquished, are giving every mo
ment of time that oan be spared to
th task of helping those sisters who
have the greater opportunity and
without the helpers at home, the ln
: trepld workers at the front would be
. sadly put to it to carry on their work.
- From all over this great land have
com Is th returns money for the
Red Cross; sums that expressed in
many and many an individual case
th slogan of Red Cross week In
June "Help till it Hurts!" All over
' th land women are gathered togeth
" or, hours of ach day. sewing, knit
ting and otherwise working to send
assistance to th units across the sea
and to furnish 'comfort and succor to
the soldiers to th men who are
fighting and to th men who are suf
fering nd to care for the loved ones
: that these men have left at home.
Taking ciro of th women and the
children temporarily bereft or more
hopelessly, permanently bereft of their
sole support. Is an important part of
Red Cross work. If you cannot knit
sweaters and sleeping helmets for the
soldiers, perhaps you can make little
garments for wee babies and toddling
children whose fathers have gone
and whose mothers are sorely over
burdened to provide for the little ones
at home. The Red Cross needs every
thing 'little frocks and coats, little
stockings, petticoats and aprons. This
work should be a labor of love to
many a woman who protests that she
"simply cannot learn how to knit"
As for the knitters, they are legion
and it Is wonderful how fast war
knitting goes, when one carries a
knitting bag always on one's arm so
that the work may be picked up the
Instant there is nothing else to engage
the attention. One even sees women
knitting in the department stores
while waiting for parcels and change.
And, en passant. Is there any more
leisurely time to accomplish a rib or
two or maybe several ribs? At least
the assurance that such waiting mo
ments are being turned to good ac
count will save one's nerves from the
fretting that usually follows exaspera
tion of temper.
If you decide to donate baby clothes
to the nearest Red Cross unit I beg of
you, donate good ones! It does seem
that any Intelligent woman, wKh in
structions In hand, might be able to
turn out garments for little children;
but a day spent at Red Cross head
quarters, examining th contributions
that come In, would bring you some
surprises. Perhaps the makers of the
small frocks and petticoats worked
with the best Intentions sometimes
the results of their efforts show that
they also worked In a frenzy of speed
to get their achievements finished and
delivered! There are frocks with
sleeves set in backwards and waist
lines so small that any healthy three-year-old
would be mightily pinched
if buttoned into them. There are
hems turned up and not turned in,
so that the raw edge of fabric pro
Jeot beyond the machine stitching.
And as for buttons! Dozens of small
garments arrive buttonless every day
not only newly made garments but
old ones donated to the Red Cross.. It
seems incredible that anybody could
be So mean as to frntp off buttons from
a garment given to charity, but most
workers In charitable organizations
will admit that this form of "econ
omy" is not unknown to them. If
you have nothing else to donate to the
Red Cross chapter in your town, con
tribute your "family button bag" with
its assortment of buttons in various
sizes, and start a new collection on
your own account
In one Red Cross headquarters
hangs a plainly printed sign which
reads: "One well made garment is
worth more to th Red Cross than a
dozen garments that need alterations
or repairs." Before making up a box
of discarded clothes,' have every small
garment carefully put In order, but
tons added where necessary, repairs
made, and a laundering given If the
things are not perfectly fresh and
clean. Perhaps you would be sur
prised to see how many soiled and
bedraggled little garments com to
the Red Cross from, well-meaning (7)
contributors. .
The department of dlatettes is an
Important part of Red Cross work.
Women are being taught how to buy
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The Florence Nightingale Of The
Great War The Bed Cross Nurse
With Her Steadfast Eyes And
Steadfast Purpose. '
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One Need Not Go To The Trendies To
Help Thousands Of American
Red Cross IT nits Are Making ,
Bandages And Comforts
For The Soldiers.
and prepare food ' economically In
their own homes and. of course.
there Is the larger work of preparing
food for soldiers In ths hospitals. This
branch of the work furnishes occupa
tion for many women who. are not
fitted by training or temperament for
nursing. , In cooking schools and do
mestle science schools all over the
country special classes In camp cook'
ery were held earlier in the season.
and will be held again In the autumn,
Youthful recruits of the male sex
find a good deal of pleasure as well as
much profit In acquiring knowledge
anent th building of potato soup and
other camp delicacies from pretty,
whlta-aproned Instructors. The uni
form for diatetio service Is not as
picturesque as the nursing uniform
but Is attractive enough withal, with
its big, Immaculately white pinafore,
belted trimly at th waist and its neat
little whit cap with turned back brim
in front
The Red Cross nursing uniform has
a beauty that is far beyond the beauty
of mar material attractiveness and
picturesqueness, a beauty that stands
for service rendered for honorable
achievement for sacrifice, for an ideal
past compare. Th uniform may not
be worn until It has been earned. Lit
tle cockney "Annie," who 'contrive
for herself j uniform cut of un
bleached muslin and turkey red cot
ton, in Miss Lorette Taylor's war play,
"Out There," willingly relinquishes the
poor bundle of cloth that it is when,
at th front sh realises as scrub-girl
In the field hospital, what the wearing
of a real Red Cross uniform means In
work, and in knowledge. It Is a
proud day : for "Annie" . .when,
garbed In th adored and longed for
whit with Its flaming badg of serv
ice on cap and sleeve, sh comes back
from "Out There" to thrill and Inspire
those at home with her call to service.
There is another Red Cross regalia, ,
worn by the women who give service
at horn by making surgical supplies
and comforts for the soldiers. One of
these uniforms is pictured also.
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Same Women Are Best Equipped Fot
( The Important Dietary, Depntt
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