THE CHARLOTTE NEWS, SUNDAY MOIiNrNG-, NOVEMBER 27, 1010.
...... 1 " ll .r I I i -i!-!.! Tll
make Co8lume&X ' .. -(?
'l r
' :V. , . V " Velvet LlIK
I 1 WSWBWW ' vS I X&i WW f s mounted over ?TOn taffeta sl'k. I
II Mj$$&MSW J T I The upper bodice was of peacock bine
I ISsl afe, y J .-biffon an. ! vivot sirclle of this rolor
I XlVf ' ' .V s s T was wrapped around the waist. Tea over. !
1 ' 'i SIBSSI SP lne wearer of this cheerful frock donnc; '
I m JT a stunnins motor coat of sealskin which
! hMtmff mwiSSm I f JF hmis rcry loosol' from "-'"
i WiiT--. rd L4s Hfe iflF ) f I but. lapped a-ross at the knees so that
rJrymi tzEzm - plm HS f Imr ' n. tWom w, wider than u.o Shir.-e.j i
I iftMyA rV Wm&W&'l. . I j&mm tml. - maronlsette' skirt beneath." The l.at was I
ThfiiJBedSariiira-pK ; Truly Hsftnificent - --ii ? ! : HI
ill ."".w.v,.v. ..'...-.-.. .v.'. . awa,. t-.'.vv.' v . : ...........-...-.-.-..-.-...-.-..--:- :
-
II , I I u"w ims savin? toocii or tm at tai-m r !(f)th iin(1 ,.hifro l
lit - I "?SfW 'JSL 1 1 in manr a Ion's dar. iia,.oiS(tf t, .v ' -h" bas "P tiirncl-ba-k- collar
"jlft " ' -
eirittroidereil with 1 1 ti
lhe foot v.-ii h skunk.
Hals Seen at lhe
.iril bt!-'1p:-fi ;u
a small affair n 'sealskin with a rrnvn
of t'arOfk ljlue velvet ami an ornameut
.'f diiJ.i silver.
the "Wrap
Cio n.
F:v? Velvet Suits Each Trimmed s ith a Differs:
i r - Plaid Marquiseties a New Costume
Material - Little Fur Girdi On
Evening Frocks,
V 'rr
pgtifr 1 t rYr York
erent- Th big utiDinl Jor?e Ph"-v
as t9k:r flacA at M.aillson Syar.re
ri.?r'1cn. acrl furtli'-r uptown at
tfe Jf-M"poH.tan Oppra TTon-se the opeca
si:is,ii: ioan. .The fortrisht Iin' tlseo
ha- brrn n w'oirl ef cnrcty. and tKV.?r
in tb hiterj- of Manhattan have u:h
i'f f n-n-p? hrn een. Furs." veiret?. rar;
"F. n'xarhanons stuff? weighted with
hend prnbtoiiJprW. tiSiips "f ffnld mid
;lTer. riTita! stitcbery- all .have l.ppn
P'1 ft ef
!n tlii? '-ountr.v.
Kiirp Mammoth In Sle.
k'tmpv rhe!l it rr-.rn.--a In fllfr. ?A fn..r-
trnij? ,!.- f f 5 fniw ri ,-j riPfU-pJrr- wrn
,,T"pr tailored iit. The v.i'.U tbemselre'
re j 'rnj;ht ?nd narrow that !... f.
Trorr.pn. t2rxenct' under ih- h::-o rvr.
cp-a.T i' cm nj'icli "ma 'It and si
tha n
fy,v. has made thorn 4 ti;m
vTi,-,i tbni- .n l'Uth avonur. flip olher
wcTf nnr hpr trie Jitrk ,U;p
t and xkirt sijjr a kier-p r
11 i h Trq. mad of fhrcc !)
k'l:'. Tlif rl'-h f'ir .'litirelr ,-,,v-
' - inn :ni 5Kii's ere
U ::-it ;( hi;:id. !;ip; r,Ver
livh- '.hiii- ju-t I.Ptn-r.n ihr-
fil the l.nrk, th.' bsuFh failiiv
e h'v
stoul'i'-r
so
;r l.o!nv rhi s-all!!rr. The Mr barrel
:ri'!ff thnt a'-ri.ri; pat) led tbi? iqotjsI rows
"toe" was a 1. least thrc-'iuarters of a
vHi d Uotr and wide In propori ion.
Most df these I arse rse;kpl-;:P are
worn ith tnp fasteninz at odc side, so
that the end fall over the shoulder in
sIp.'h! nf straight down 1 1 front. &oiue-H.iK-s
mi Miiiuial bead rests on the
shiiu'dr. one or more full brushes fa'l
. i n ir to rbo waist flt ba.-k or front. This
method nf arrnTiffement. t tpu'i-h more
sra.e"fnl anrl yotjtlifu! fban when The
iierKpinr-e s f.-istoned 'Ilreetly in trout,
with fh ends falling over the bust a
mnuner of adjust merit whjeh alwajs sug
the middle a'ed matron.
Vclirt I fl'tumrii In line
"Wardrobe.
Sr.rtifi.iTic took the trouble to rennt the
rr-Uet i-nji'iiDf' in wbi'h a vonnc so'jety
" nuiaii appenred nt the Horse-Snow, and
ii" !esQ tljHti live handsome vol vet font,
mi! -.klrt suits were nofpd at the various
sessions, this jouns matron belns deeply
intf resTed in the events on the tanbark,
ha vios herself several tine saddle horses
"nt-TTl. and apprarine every day regularly
in her box at lhe Oardetl.
Three out of the five velvt suits were
blat-k - th" eolor of -olors it one nilaht
:iyt in Taris now. All these
were narrow In the skirt and
"vVrap and TrocK toKatcK . s Kerw raid
locks, worn uuder snisrt motor coats.
show this savin? touch of red at throat
and sleeve edge.
speaking of afternoon frocks, the plaid
marquisettes, made up over bright-colored
bmnss are the prettiest things een
in many a lon day. Marquisette 1s an
appealing- stuff to most women, for with
the sheerness and transparency of ebifi'un
It is inueb more durante. It is like voile
in eharaeter but is much finer tbau the
rincst voile.
A Jx-oteb I'lald marquisette, worn the
other day at tea hour, was in a blurred
pattern of peacock blue and groou with
narrow lines of red in the weave, and jj
From Martial Armsnd comes the su
perb ' everiinsr costume which is pi'-tured
ludav and which iiieiiid.es a gown suitable,
fin t healer and restaurant wear and a
fu'J-lcngth wrap to marrh. The material
of-both gown and wrap is black chiffon
draped over gold-colored sstln and richly
embroidered ith gold eord. This gold
embroidered eh iff on i weighted at the
hr.fi mo' by ii deep hem of blaclc velvet and
the coal, bas a . deep turned-ba'-k collar
and cuffs of the velvet bordered with
sab'e. The coat lining Is of the gold
colored satin and the black velvet hat
bas plumes in this tawny shade. The
of gold cord
the gown is
smart fashion this season.
Another rbdi wrap from Uouf'e is of
oriental red satin embroidered with black
lira id and "mined with skuuk fur. 'I his
wrap aecompanlcs a gown of red satin
Hwe bivt.
i ne nais pictureo to'iav .n
of lhe headgear worn ' ins:-i .ti.-um
at the Horse Show early ilii; ::mi;ili ir
New York. The large bat --h--w Vn
'Irooping brim nw fancied ad :he tiim
ining sweepiug toward the IsnK. T!i,
small toque -i if white uni t-.rl, fur.
companied hy jcjirf er ukiip i:i!.'.!
and black fox. part'cul.ir'r ii!;iri, l!n
turban with its Irregularly i iirnwl-iij
brim and Iriiuming massed r em.- ,nn
ov the downward side i tynieal th
hats worn With smart aft '.rii,.ni nsnnnpt.
TO tl.KAn KK.tl. Ol O I.Vt K.
-dn. T-r r r r . t ...
yqi Miiiir. is a way i it'.'lij
lace jtt home when I be onpr fe-r
the valuable possession tnav he ral:"t
by a "laundry. - Soap st.piiinj u"mt 1 i
rubbed in lace, as i' ruins (h?
First, dissolve In warm watr euouih
soap to tuake a latlcr. Add a !vv i'-i jii
of ammonia and" place the bee i" 'lis
Allow it to stand for V r.tiunles. a-
it up and down in lhe s;i n-'l tlion
squeeze gently tliwgh th" hands.
Never rub or wring the I"''1'- :i It lc
very apt to break the thr??.!. ? ?" i.illy
when the lace is of a very fine vin'i'y
Next put in another bd nf -"!:. i
in the saiu' manner, auu --ir:'."?f
lace until, nil the dirt ha Iip-i? reiii.oe'1.
I hen rinse in two ints i..f w.iri
put it thai
black suits
r i
I
All tlie New StoeU Collnr rv
Matclietl h Dnioly tnff.
raher short, and each was trimmed
with a different sort of fur. one with
skunk, another witb opossum, the third
with black broadtail. Tiny satin but
tons decor;iioi one suit, huge eord orna
ments another and the broadtail-trimmed
costume had large buttons of dull gilt
set vi ith topazes. - One afternoon the
suit was of old bine velvet with a. nar
row tunic skirt bordered with moleskin
and there Mas n graec.'nl shoulder scarf
of moleskin and taupe chiffon witb a tnuCf
to motdi. At an evening session a fawn
colored velvet suit v:is worn, and this
cost nine was most beautiful of all. The
skirt was slightly longer than walking
length and hid the feel, and at the
height of the knees was trimmed with
a band of deep p:rn lace threaded with
gold and bordered on ench edge with fox
fur in the fawn shade of the velvet. The
coat was an abbreviated affair in Kus
sian funic effect and fell scarcely to the
hips. It bad broad cuff? of the gobl-
hreaded !;:e .bordered with fox and a
deep, sailor collar also of the lace and
fur. It opened at the waistline In front,
one end of the collar forming a deep
i ever which extended to the waist. With
this costume was worn a beautiful bat of
fa wn-eoiorcd velvet with plumes shading
to a deep rose: :uid the lining of the coat
exactly matched the rose of the plumes.
A Velvet Cnnlnmii Fr the Average
Woman.
Kvprybody, of course, ma? not possess
five beautiful velvet, suits, each more
dressy than the last, and each btiilt of
velvet ranging from seven dollars a yard
upward for many of the very thin,
supple velvets do cost that amount. Hnt
every woman will -want at least one vel
vpf costume this winter, if she is to reel
herself in step with fashion, and the
majority of these suits will undoubtedly
be built, not of velvet at all. but of one
of the now. soft velveteens which are
really beautiful in texture.
The woman ivho plans a velveteen suit,
however, will d well to make her choice
either black or very dark blue; for it
is in the colored effects that velveteen
betrays itself. Only in the handsome
silk velvets are ibe soft, subdued eolorl
Ings obtainable, but as black, is really
the smart color IbH season, this will not
so much matter to the woman who buys
her velveteen suit tor general afternoon
street wear.
The skirt of such n suit should be very
straight aud very narrow. It should not
taper toward 'the bottom, as Paris, w.hile
stUI insisting on the very narrow skirt, !
frowns uncompromisingly on nil tapering -or
"hobble" effects. . This nieaus that i
the woman with wide hips will have her '
skirt of sufficient breadth at the bottom j
to hang in straight lines, and only the
slim person of near-hipless dimensions ;
will indulge in the yard and a half or ,
two-yard skirl width. -
With (his narrow . and rather short
skirt will In- worn a jacket to the hips j
and cut in box stylo defining the curve 1
of the waist not at all, but hugging thej
figure - very closely at. the hips. .The !
sleeves will be close-fitting, without full- i
ness nl the shoirtdor anil will come to )
the knuckles when the hand is dropped at j
the" side. These jaunty little jackets i
do not button', straight down the . front.
I'snally one side laps over the other in a
deep rover and the fastening is arranged
near the waistline with some sort of
fancy cord ornament' or clasp. If one
be fortunate enough to possess an old
fur muff anil neckpiece which may bR
cut .up into strips, and used as a trim
ming on the revei, wrists and skirt bem
of the velveteen snit; so much the better
and better still if eqough fur remains to
contrive a jaunty little toque, with a vel
vet crown and the strip of fur forming
t he brim.
Th Ser Fnr Cilrflle.
Some of the prettiest evening gown?
that-bare been worn during the past fort
night at the opera have had narrow fur
girdles, made of ermine, moleskin or
some other short haired pelf.' Usually
the same fur appears elsewhere on the
gown, at th foot In border effect and
also edging the elbow sleeves. Fur is
never. used around the neck of an even
ing '-gown, which always blends as closely
as' possible., with the lines of the shoul
ders. Tf trimming is added at all it. is
in flat bands and flesb-eolorcd tulle or chif
fon .Is - often laid in around the dccol
letage. to soften the dividing line between
bare flesh aud fabric.
To return to the little. fur girdles, they
are simply narrow strip? of fur. two
inches wide arid about two yards -long,
the reverse . side being lined with thin
satin in the color" of the gown. This Ut
ile fur strip is drawn around the rather
high waistline and simply knotted once
at: one side of the front, the ends hang
ing loosely. Of course only tly? slender
est figure could stand, the teet of a fur
bell at the waist.
The Basque Rfall.v Coming;!
An earlier mention of the probability
of tbe basque in costume., made on this
page, is now being eon firmed by T'aris
advices. At the Grand Trix a Worth
gown was worn which showed a distinct
basque, or short funic bodice, with the
.material, fit ted -tightly to the figure as far
as ibe waistline and then falling loosely
to the hip. There was no belt, a narrow
piping marking the division between fit
ted bodbe portion and the little "peplum''
which fell . below. A still more startling
innovation .along basiue lines has heeu
produced by ,'allol. This is a bodice with
five seams, at the back something that
has not been seen in many years, every
effort. , of tne dressmakers having been
of late to disguise seams in every way
possible.
The L'llot gown is of black satin with
a long sweeping skirt and a, little short
walsted bodice separated from the Bkirt
by a softly folded sash of red silk. The
lop of the bodice Is finished with a quaint
fichu of net and niecbliu lace. But the
back of the bodice! One scarcely believes
one's eyes, for it is fitted to the figure
by means of five seams, each distinctly
emphasized by a piping. The front of the
bodice is draped in the usual way in
simple surplice fashiou. ' ;
Onshes of Bed on Somber Costnmea.
The red salf on this black ("allot frock
Is -very significant, for many French cos
tumes now show this striking touch of
red. aiid especially is the red note no
ticeable iu embroideries on dark blue
frocks of serge or permo material. Red
embroideries with perhaps a glint of gold
thread and an outline of black, lift the
simplest afternoon frock of dark color to
Immediate distinction, and many little
O important a feature In woman's
dress Is neckwear considered to be
now that most of the large depart- j
tnent shops use from two to six :
lotiff counters at the front at the j
i
main Boor for neckwear display. No j
other article of merchandise is accorded ;
as mn"b-room no other article of 'tress, j
that. is. wbicb form? a single item of (be
wardrobe.
There are counters of Jabot? find coup- i
ters ef lace collar and cuff sets; counters
of scarfs and ruffs, counters on which j
smart IKtle" neck hr.ns ef ribbon are
displayed and usually a. whole counter
devoted soiely to niching. Aud benealh
all these counters are glass cases, lighted
up by electric bulbs, iu which are ex
hibited tbe ueckwear de htxethe ex-
I aulslMy dainty things which coroe from
the needles of French con-tent wnraers
around Paris.
F,very woman knows Hint a smart
street, costume may be made or marred
by the bit of neckwear which acom
nanies it. and every woman has ex
perienced lhal tyelJ-gro"rned. eorreetlr ettaohod to tbe stock
silk. These last are usually pleated, the
silk being laid in fine side pleats be
fore the bow is tied and the pleated
ends falliug in two sharp point" on the
Huffy jabot beneath. .Tabots continue to
be worn, though they are- the short, bib- j of the. coat.'
shaped affairs, falling in the opening of j are ready to
the tailored coat, rather tbau the long
pleatiogs wbicb extend down tbe side
of coat, or blouse openinf.
A very smart 'jabot and stock- tre
sliowo in the accompanying illustration,
and this bit of neckwear illustrates also
the fancy for colored effects. White
linen 1s combined with -colored ' linen iu
most effective ways. ;md often the white
portion of the neckwear is embroidered
v. Uli colored mercerized floss to match
sections of colored linen set iuto lhe de
sign. The stock and jabot illustrated
are of white linen embroidered wilh dots
in a cool Dutch .blue, and the jabot is
made of a piece of the solid blue linen,
with a bolder of white embroidered w'ith
the blue dots. This jabot, as the pic
ture shows, has heeu pleated before being
ilrir
aud attached to the stock in'l.ir
pnm bow of black velvet falrici "
a pretty brooch. When coat ':f m
at. all. they are of some fabMi- iiannf
tug and U"t contrasting iiii '',p "'
Velvet ciiff an
apply 1" last 'Tlnlt'
which bas b'gun to .-ho" y'S"1 "
at. 'cuffs and collar. M"ir" -"e'-F
bad. also, but the prctti"!'
of colored suede leather,
shawl-collar style, a -id v
V -it'll
; 1 1
r -.M .ir
, In
i'i
I'r'
i-
-1 1 : -a y
h
!,'!
,- - I "!
1 1
li
eonivoed feeling which a handsome ami
smart new pie;-e of neckwear gives. If
one's throat is dressed correctly, one
can face ibe world with equanimity, even
though the skirt be ' a hit wider than
this year's decree aud the jncket longer
than Paris commands.
With the tailored two-piece suit now
is worn a blouse which repeats in soum
way the color of the suit material, and
this blouse usually has a collar or boned
slock which shows above the outer coat.
Tn all bodices of a stiff and elegant
character the little" yokes and high
stocks at the top are of cream lace;
usually of dainty lace insertions, joined
with tiny eutre deux or pearling." aud
mounted over foundations of very fine
cream net. All the French dressmakers
now are using- a . lovely creamy lace
called Calais lace for collars and yokes,
and beneath the mesh of the lae in
variably appears the finer mc-li of Hie
foundation of net. This gives a nater
finish" and keeps the collar in shape
better than a single layer of lace, which
Is bound to stnjteh or become narrower
In time.
To wear over the I'lub b-necked waists,
which are still in great favor, and will
be worn all winter without doubt, there
are useful little overyokes attached to
high stocks, these being intended to slip
on above tbe bodice, so that the trim,
high stock shows iu the opening of tne
oat. These overyokes are made of
tucked net and of fine linen with outre
deux of. lace. Tbe lower edge is
rounded or square in shape, and is fin
ished with a pleated frill of the lace,
sometimes there is little bow or rabat
set in front of . the .stock, or one of the
shower bows made of narrow velvet rib
bons or silk tubing, with a multitude. of
dangling ends, each" tipped with a tiny
ornament.
These little neck bows are tbe fea
ture of neekiiressing now.- Every woman
one meets has some sort of a bow at
her throat. Ilalf of these bows are of
velvet ribbon, and the other half com
prise the shower bows before mentioned
nd amart bowa of Persian patterned
i pe sto' K at tne foftom or the sxrn i
illustration is of white linen embroidered :
with pink dots. Hotli rf these collars !
are matched by cuffs. anl tbta is typical j
of all tbe best neckwear of tbe mo- :
nicnt. Cuffs are the fad. and on dark'!
wool or mohair frocks the dainty wrist, j
or elbow finish, matching an. equally.
dainty neck finish, is. most charming. On :
velvet afternoon dresses exquisite' cuffs !
and linn-down collars of Irish '-rochet :
or rare old Venetian point are seen; or i
the turned back cuffs of white lace may '
be. matched by a little yoke and stock !
when a Dutch or semi-decollete iic-k Is j
: not fa U'ded. .. J
Lace collars and cuffs are no longe- !
worn outside of tbe tailored coat.- Jod.
:the white- In ce frills, affected by eome
wometf on the outer edee.s of coat lapels 1
Mast summer, have mercifully passed into
the limbo of forgotten ness. But every f
smartlyf groomed woman shows some bit
rof dainty white in the opening of ' er j
tailored coat at the top. This touch ot j
white usually being the bib-jabot of very . j
sheer lawn bordered with Irish crochet,
Th"
colored kid are vert smart anri
-I.i-i- r,int-h iiiiis Similar -! 31
of Persian arm nr "f tapejny, '"
are not: fancied by woin-n of '''''
as are the ets of s'ip-Io.
Some nf lhe imported
wear, with inserts of "'-i.
dainty. There arc vo!-
hole-res. made of very iiuc.
snd mull, on tvhi'-li :ir
cries - all in pure white:
motifs of fine whlt- i:rnr:s
scried in (he mull nHb ' '"'
Two examples of ihi- d.iM'
neckwear :ire illustrated:
and a little bolero. Koih of
nt'furcs fte designed for !'--'" '
a costume, 'though the cellar
.-ei-iins be worn ic'i cly '
of velvet or black atii! - a
...... I l.i- ti.iiieet this f?!!.
eotd be set into a U"r,'ir
white mull or. might ''"
verv handsome tronsfca.n K' ,
Wiib morning li"ctv-. o ' " ..
doors, delightful little -:,.-:.
hits ai-p being worn wi'h 'V'"
fashioned brooches, af'er 'r -'
.. c,-..ntp eisters. I hese !
I LI' -t.l ' '
hroidered collars arc
Mane Eyre" collars,
tha.i half an inch in
a very nent and
n. f it Fl i II
iIOl1,i ,J,.1,l Uy.or:
f-!vron collars
fancied by women
throats, and. of cor
worn Honing." byror.;.- ''" (
These collars should s;i-' J
of tbe ttiroat n ' ..t-,r, in-
loose and iiilorm.H y
are immensely becowiusr 1
-. i v
Tii"
frv
,..- i
I
and
wi'lti
dairitv t'misn
rhn l-"
J.-!'!
I
Tlie Ieach Hull aud et Embroideries Are
K,(1otsH.