THE CHABLOTTE KEWS, SUl^DAX MORXINQ, AUGTJST 13, 1911.
11
•f
■I
■ ?
»t
■>
lit
FXjciHArniGBLCusEs
REA.DV FOR.
AUTXfMH SUITS
A. LaceWs-ist
Over "E^jed and Tnnuned
\sritb. Bed Ch if fort
■(=> La:ce louse is back
r^shions
Last inaian i unics riave Taken Pans B3
Storm - Stencilled Blouses Now - The
Passing of the Dutch Neck - Chiffon
the Popular Blouse Material
nOT to possess an East Indian
blouse, this autumn, will be to
argue one 3 self unknown —
fi m a sartorial standpoint.
This new blouse is the novelty of the
■eason and is already the craze in
Paris, though as yet only a few choice
examples have made an appearance In
Ame!i('». All East Indian effects lire,
of course, to be extra\agantly popular
because of the « oming visit of the
English King t^ the durbar and the
visit I f East Indian potentates In Eng
land during r'oronatlon time. Of all
the ' ►r’»‘n!al types, the East Indian
type." are the most harmonious and
pleasing, for desii^ns are delicate and
colors are soft and subtle, lacking
th» crude garishness of Chinese,
Turkish, or Egyptian effects.
•\ 'l»lectable East Indian blouse
c mes fronri Worth, who atands span
s' r f r the style, though these blouses
ha . f he*»n lmi»ato-d- now by every
dres.'-maker In I’aris. Thf^ Worth
m •;**1 i.® mad*" of rrpam>- fan chif
fon cloth and is really a short tunic
rather than a blouse, falllnr over Just
ihe hip and confined at the natural
waisMinn by a pnft nash of sage green
f'h. Y n whloh i.*! knott^*d gracefully
at 'he side. Th*; narrowest lines of
gt • en and while b*‘;id embroidery
’r!m the blous*- and dandling from
the slee\es and the lower edge at
fron? anl ba^ k nro queer *le Sfjuare
orr.nment.^ mad.- >f Kreen and pink
Such a blousf may l>e -.vorn
wi'h any skirt nf sum('i>ntly .soft mn-
terial, though of couisc these dressy
East Indian blouse.s Inok best over
a skirt of satin or crepe de chine.
un« of today’s Illustrations show.s
an East Indian waist of gold colored
crep*' embroidered with bead.s. The
tunics are also made of cream colored
eyelet embj-oldfred batiste hut what
ever the material the effect must be
very soft and dainty and there must
be the knotted rhiffon sash around the
waist.
Larra l>y»'d to .MaK'li Wal**! Materials.
I »yed laee in nf»t an altogether novel
fashion notion; but hitherto this trim
ming has been used only occasional
ly on costumes of a ceremonious na
ture. Now dyed lace Is the fad and
Tvlll form one of the chief trimming
features of winter blouses. Few pro
fessional dyers will guarantee the col
oring of lace; for wliilo the lace itself
is usually made of rotton threads the
material with which it is to be match
ed up Is almost Invariably & silk or
wool fabrlOk The best way to obtain
a smart blouso trimmed with dyed
lace la to fashion tho entire blouse
flrst of white material and then have
It dyed the required shade. ‘If the
lace Is already dyed In a color one
fancies It may be matched with some
soft, satisfactory blouse material
more easily than the same material
could.be matched with dyed lace.
'Wonderfully pleasing effects >may
be achieved by dipping white blouses
of ftoft batiste In a tea solutioTi, the
least b.it of .'trained tea being used
with a quantity of water. An all-
over. embroidered white batiste waist
which cost but two dollars was dipped i
in weak tea and then trimmed with '
pipings . of golden brown satin at ,
sleeve and neck edges and the result
was a charming blouse for wear with i
a brown permo coat and skirt suit— |
a blouse that In its cream and brown i
incarnation could not have been dupli
cated for several times the original
cost.
Fmbroidcrics of 'Worsted.
('henille and worsted embroideries
decorate many of the little chiffon
blouses ready for wear with Autumn
two-piece suits of wool and mohair.
White worsted embroidery is now
more modish than the white bead em
broideries which were done death
last season. Some of the whl'-. Em
broideries on dark chiffon grounds
. suggest handsome passementeries and
are done with white chenille, beads
and bugles. The embroidered effects
are all rather Oriental in suggestion
and clear-cut bold patterns are the
favorites. A very pretty chiffon
hloupe with this bold embroidery is
illustrated. This blouse is of tan col
ored chiffon cloth embroidered with
black, white and dull green beads.
Small motifs of red and orange floss
are introduced in the bead embroidery
on the sleeves and at the neck.
Tho Usfful But Perishable Chi»»on
Blouse.
Thousands of yards of chiffon have
I been ordered from the manufacturers
' this year where hundreds were or
dered last season becau.se of the de
mand for chiffon blouses. Women
have discovered how graceful and be
coming the chiffon blouse is, and how
easily such a blouse may be slipped
: over different slips to make pleasing
changes with tho one coat and skirt
costume. This year some of the chif
fon blftv^ses are tised over foundations
of metallic brocad.'e, woven by some
necromaoy of the weaver so that It
is supple and clinging instead of harsh
and stiff as metallic materials gener
ally are. The glistening brocade of
the lining is so rich In Itself that such
blouses need no further’trimming than
a -line of gilt or dull silver cord
arotmd the neck opening and at the
edge of the sleeves. Sometimes a
‘Dold.EffeGt^tv'e Embpoideries
on Chiffon Models
' '' ‘>'4'
An Uasl Indian, olouse
of 'Bead Embpoid^ned Crepe
V
Same Color are AptisLicallY
'W'ide 'Bell Slee^res
a Kew Cry in Parkis
double row of tiny metal buttons is
set down the front. Though many
of the new blouses suggest a front
opening by the manner of trimming,
the opening Is almost Invariably at
the back, which Is really the only
satisfactory place In a separate blouse
of any sort.
Stencilled Blouses a New and Pretty
Fad.
The craze for stencilling ha- nowln-
vaded the realm of dress and who'
knows where it will end. Many pf
the new chiffon and thin silk w’aists
for fall show stencilled patterns
j which are outlined with bead-; In very
effective style. This trimming is really
very charming and of course is much
more quickly applied th n the same
amount of embroidery would be, and
provided the fad is not done ' ■> death,^
it should prove a satisfactory trim
ming device. But the trouble is that
when a wom'.i; lakes up any craft,
from the enameling of bedroom fur
niture to the hand embroidering of
lihgerie she is likely to try her skill
In the newly acquired accomplish-'
ment on everything In sight, and the
stencilled trimmings are so '-'leap an/l
so easy to apply that a very little of
this garniture will be its only dis
tinction.
In new embroideries on fall waists
very pretty effects have been achieved
by working big, conventional flowers
with silk floss and filling in the cen
ters with colored chiffon or dyed lace.
Tall Collars Again Now.
Most of the chiffon and silk blouses
t have shallow lace yokes set In the
rounded or V shaped decolletage and
.more and more high, boned stock col
lars are noted at the top of these
yokes. Dutch necks will doubtless be
worn in the house, but with the trig,
good looking autumn street suit, a
high collar around the throat Is by, far
the smarter choice. There is sbme-
, thing about a low neck dressing with
an autumn suit that suggests slop-
i plneas and though, later on, when
furs are donned many women take up
\comfortable collarless bodices again,
; the boned stock is almost sure to
make its appearance with the fall two-
I piece suit.
Itiere Is a growing tendency to dis-
I card the peasant sleeve with its cllng-
j ing shoulder line for a closefitting
I sleeve set into an arms ©ye; and many
I of the new sleeves bell out toward
! the lower edge. A Paris frock which
I attracted much attention at the open-
I l«gs last month*had loose bell sleeves
I over undersleeves of net, and in these
undersleeves, just below the elbow,
j were lnseri,ed hoops of whalebone, the
sleeve beiiig gathered below in bishop
! style. This fashion, however, is very
j extrenie ’and will not materially In-
I fluence fall shirtwaist sleeves. Long
shoulder lines will continue in vogue
and some waists show shoulders ex
tending several ’■■iches down over the
arm with the sleeve set in between
shoulder and elbow in quaint, oid-
fashioned style. Many of the French
blouses of lingeri-; material have long
sleeves edged with pleated frills which
fall over the hand, a picturesque, but
rather untidy fashion w'hich never ob
tains enthusiastic favor with women
who' have anything to do excopt sit
with idle hands. These floppy sleeve
pleatings are matched by huge jabota
which taper toward the waistline but
at the top extend clear to the shoul-
der . where the jabot is pinned with t
long bar-pin.
Tailored Waists of Striped Silk.
For trot-about wear with mornins
tailored suits the silk blouses witb
mannish cut and long sleeves are Im
mensely chic. These blouses are
made of washable silk and mercer
ized pongee fabric which Is very silky
and lustrous. They are perfectly
plain, with a few tucks In front to
lend sufTlclent fullness over the bust,
and mannish sleeves finished with
turned back cuffs. The high turnover
collar is pinned trimly beneath a
four-in-hand tie of silk. In the early
fall days the shops always show flan
nel shirtwaists and attractive flannels
by the yard for making up these
waists for winter w'ear; but flannel
I waists are really too warm in our
heated houses and under fur and
hea\T cloth coats; and they are too
informal in type to be really smart
with tailored suits. The well cut
waist of washable silk is much pret
tier and quite as comfortable for win
ter wear to the average woman,
j New Lace Waists For Afternoon
I Wear.
It was Worth who revived interest
last spring in the lace blouse and
separate skirt, and though the white
I blouse and dark skirt are never har-
! monious on the standing figure, and
are in the worst of taste for any oc
casion where standing or walking
about are necessary, for matinee and
luncheon or tea wear these dainty
blouses are quite permissible. Tw» ■
charming new lace blouses are illu*»
trated. One Is made of alternating
strips of Maltese and val and li
! mounted over a cherry red chiffon
slip, pipings of cherry red satin and
tiry buttons of the satin making »
smart trimming. The other waist li
a most graceful model, also made cf
• insertions joined together, but in thli
case the Insertions are very wide and
are clearly dovetailed to suggest a
! solid material.
Gold and Silver Laoes Fla an' important Pari In New Bags.
%
^TWCOMr.A.CT, business like leather
■gfl handbag is the exception now
W in the hands of a well-dressed
■ woman. Reticules and fancy
bags made of soft, rich materials and
of the utmost limpness have replaced I
the stiff leather bags and a leather 1
handbag, unless it be a very aristb-i
cratic affair of the handsomest, soft
est suede, in some odd'and individual
shape, is absolutely out of place with
any dressy costume.
The huge bag on Its lonr- cord
handles is carried on the shoulder,
the cord loop hanging over the sh^jul-
der and the bag Itself swinging be- j
neath the arm. When one is seated
the big, soft bag. Is drawn into the
lap and held there. This method of
carrying one’s handbag on the shoul
der is eminently practical and con
venient, and since th^ l>ag swings be
neath the left arm, one may get at ,4tr
easily wjth the right hand. ■
The richest and most sumptuous*
materials are used for these bags and
the bead and metal embroideries p.re St***Ped Satin. Bags Are Striking But
done on delicate shades of silk, but Smart,
there Is so much gold and silver lace, j small dull gold beads with larger
and this lace Is so dull and tarnished j beads in iridescent effect. The handle
in effect the more ^rnlshed. the | Is green cord with gilt tinsel threads.
smarter according to Fashion’s no
tion—that these bags do not show
signs of wear as readily as might be
Imagined. East Indian bags, made
of green or rose-colored silk with rich
embroideries and metallic trimming
are the very newest Paris notion now
and two handsome bags in this style
are pictured. One of these bags l.s in
oval shape with a boned frame across
the top and' a flap opening. .Rich
East Indian embrolderiei in rnauve
and crimson are wrought on a ground
ot r««*4® ireen «atin andMiW 'JiasK ana
• -f.t. J*®®® Hiueb wjtb
The second bag, oblong in shape. Is
Made of rich " rose pink satin veiled
with gold lace tin which are embroid
eries in silver and crimson. The cord
handles are braided, and there Is an
applique trimming of the cord on the
outside of. ^ bag. These cord
handles, t'pay llb^^l^otted hal' way
down, as';{the B/^^ftpgrej^h so
that th.e;^Bag rn^y catrried.Jn the
hand: or ..they ma.5; be *left > fi^e' and
the bag cajt!:rI^d,.o.ver^the thoiili^er.
. The stRli^ll ^«atir bags in blapk 'and
smart driving and motor costumes
at the races in T*aris this summer.
Such a bag would scarcely answer
for day in and day out use. but occa
sionally, with certain costumes it is
very smart and effective. These bags
have braided cord handles combining
white and black cord, and sometimes
there is a smaller purse Inclde for
small coins.
The real reticule is drawn up at the
top with a drawstring through a casing
and bags of this sort are carried with
theatre and evening frocks, or in the
afternoons, with dressy bridge frocksi
The trouble with such a bar is that
the belongings inside must be jumb^d
together in some confusion and one’
dees not care to carry more than
handkerchief, change purse, and a
trinket or two. In many of the large
shaped bags, there are pockets*' in'
which small belongings may be stow-'
ed away, for of course the beauty of
such a bag is its flat, limp appear
ance and a jumble of things inside
would spoil this soft flatness. .
The few leather bags in conven
tional shopping style 'coniform to the
reticule idea as much as possible and
have odd shaper, flap covers and long
handles in strap style or made of the
fashionable cord. For traveling use
of course the leather bag is the only
correct sort and the business woman
if she be a business woman who
dresses. In good taste, dispenses with
the ;frlvolous reticule and 'carries a
good "looktqg leather bag in keeping
with her occupation and her trig,
tailored costume.
Bridge bagi. fn the new, soft Orien
tal colorings are ' exceedingly hand
some and add'much to the distinction
of smart afternoon costumes. A beau
tiful bag of this sort, carried the other
afternoon at Newport by a devotee of
bridge, was of reseda green silk em
broidered all over in a peacock design,
done with green and gold silks. Small
gold beads were worked into the em
broidery and the handles were of
! gold cord. This bag was lined with
i gold colored satin' and ' there was a
i special pocket for bridge Winnings.
I Net veiled bags are very beauti
ful but perhaps the most perishable
sort for the net covering does not
i wear as sturdily as heavier fabrics.
I A beautiful bag of this type, exhibited
in a Fifth Avenue windo.w last week,
i was made of bright blue satin veiled
I with silver gray net on w^hich w’ere
' embroideries of metal and colored
beads in an Oriental crescent pattern.
’ The handle was of blue silk cord and
silver cord braided together. From
! Paul Poiret comes a very striking bag
of mustard yellow Ottoman silk em-
’broidered Ih-^.'a hold Oriental pattern
' in shades ' of green, rose t^nd violet.
The shape Is slightly oval with a loni
point at the bottom and a lattice fringe
of fine gold beads weighted with Ion?
tassels depends from the bottom o^!
the bag. The handles are of gold cord]
and pass through rings of gold braid
in military fashion. In fact rr.any om
the new Parisian reticules
military effects with their ] °avy trlffl'j
mings of gold lace, fringe and braid.
Some of the handsomer bags whlcM
are intended for theatre and restau-j
rant use are accompanied by beautlfu'j
little fans which fit into the ba?.i
These fans are made of gauze or £‘i»j
with embroideries and bead trlmm:r'.g!j
that match the outside of the ba!j
and the effects are invariably rich anij
Oriental in suggestion, Oriental anii
especially East Indian effects belnjj
the craze In Paris now.
Even the gold and sih'er mesh bagjl
now have long handles, made 0 j
cords or slender chains which niii)
slung over the shoulder in a mann«'j
approved by Dame Fashion.
Card Case and Theatre Bag of Modish Type.