PAGE SIX
Millinery Which Reflects the Season
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FJIof-the-suramer-millnery.for tbou
who are able to Indulge themselves
In hats which Illustrate tbe seasons, Is
hown In greater variety this year
than erer before In the memory of the
most observant of milliners. The poet
celebrates tba coming- and going of
the year In Terse and women note Its
passing seasons lovingly In their ap
parel. Three exquisite bats are pictured
fcere. one of them from the most re
nowned establishment In Paris, and
tbe other two, in every way as excel
lent, originated In America. They are
especially appropriate for wear at the
nd of the summer and through tbe
coming fall.
In tbe first bat a straw shape Is
decorated with a very heavy ribbon
laid across the crown and tied at the
left side at the shoulder. This ribbon
la very heavy and soft. There Is a
wreath of velvet plums with velvet
foliage and small white berries about
the crown. This hat may be developed
la several colors, but In bronse or
purple -shades and In bronse-browns
will bo found most beautiful.
Tbe second hat is a combination of
traw braid and velvet which may be
developed in any of thu rich sad quiet
colors now fashionable. It Is remark- '
bly simple in design. The round
crown Is covered with velvet, and the
outline of the brim la oni;hasUed by a :
Tuch fold of velvet put on with ;
perfection of workmanship. Thrust
through the brim and under this fold
a coronet of the dalntest of -feathers,
known us the Niunidl, furnishes the
docoratlon for this elegant hat.
The third hat is a straw shapo faced
with chiffon in black. It shows the
movement toward wtder brims and
picturesque shapes. Its trimming con
sists of a sprsy of autumn lowers,
posed in the bandeau and upturned
brim at thu left side, and a similar
spray at the right. The chrysanthe
mum or the hydrangea or small fruits,
with follago, may be selected for this
model. JULIA BOTTOM LEY.
Graceful Gown in Gray Broadcloth
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Woolen Dress With , Braid Trimming ' l
Putting On, Taking Off.
Do not forget the old rules for put
ting on and taking off gloves. When
putting them on, do not try to get the
whole glove on at once, but first work
ou the fingers, taking care to have the
seams fit exactly even at the sides;
draw the glove over the hand and then
put in tbe thumb, but leave the seam
of the thumb down the center. Re
member that a glove ouce put on
wrung can never be stretched Into the
right i-hape again, so it Is well to take
the- little care at the start,
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One of the (Vnfnrm nf th ininn ta
a touch of color In white dresses. 1
Sometimes this touch is lu the form,
of black velvet
Caps for the School Girl
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A RETURN to simplicity In lines
t and style is promised in dress de
signs for . the coming fall season.
Prophets of fashion say that we shall
be governed by things military in the
matter of clothes. We may therefore
expect shorter shoulder lines, straight
skirts, waistcoat effects, buttons and
braids in decorations. The poise of
the figure will change, and the proper
thing In carriage will also be mili
tary. That is, this will all happen if
the purveyors "of fashion are right in
their predictions.
Rut the transition from our loosely
hanging, easy-going garments of to
day will not be too sudden. The gown
pictured here showa signs of transi
tion. One first remarks In it the ab
sence of the long tunic and the disap
pearance of any extra drapery in the
skirt. The skirt Is, however, cut so
that it does not hang In straight
lines but has the effect of wrapping
the figure somewhat.
The small coat Is provided with a
set-in vest of chiffon velvet, extending
from the under-arm seam to a point
a little above the swell of the bust.
It Is finished across the back and
sides with a plaiting of the fabric of
the dress. This is eloped from the
sides toward the back In a sharp
curve. A short panel at the middle
of the back hangs from above the
waist line to more than half the
length of the plaitings below. The
body of the Jacket is cut with the
shoulder In one piece, and the three-
i:.irter straight sleeve is set in with
a l:U!e fullness at the top. The jacket
is Finished with a rolling collar of the
velvet held In place by small wires,
It is provided with buttonholes and
large buttons matching those used to
decorate the front of the skirt By
way of a finishing touch a little pocket
at each aide is simulated.
The bottom of the sleeves and of
the Jackpt, the pocket-flap and the top
of the sleeves, are decorated with a
fine latticework of the smallest
soutache braid. This decoration ap
pears again in a band across the front
of the skirt. The dress is worn over
a long-sleeved blouse of wash silk or
crepe de chine. It is a graceful model
on which one may safely decide while
awaiting the establishment of the
military styles which are, so far, only
rumored.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
ANOTHER of those practical little
woolen dresses, designed for the
young miss who will soon be taking
up her school affairs, is pictured here.
Except for its decoration of braid It
Is so simple as hardly to need description.
Any of the standard woolen fabrics
are suited to a dress of this kind.
Challies should not be overlooked In J
making a selection, and the plainness
of the model makes a wide choice of
materials possible. There are many
pretty, quaintly figured patterns in
challies and in other light-weight wool
ens suited to little dresses of this
kind. For durability, close-woven
serges are excellent.
The bodv of the dress is made over
a-"fming of light muslin to which a
plaiting at the bottom of the dresa
fabric is sewed. The long-waisted
bodice and skirt in one is draped and
sewed to place over thla lining. The
shoulders are lfltag, extending over
the set-In sleeves.
The dress is decorated with nar
row soutache braid in contrasting col
or, or a deeper shade of the color of
the goods. A folded girdle of satin
completes the garment
To keep it fresh looking detachable
undersleeves of fine muslin and a
guimpe of the same are provided, to
be removed and laundered when they
require it. Fine all-over embroideries
may be used Instead of muslin, or
dotted swiss or fine lawns.
If one has much time needlework
may be Used instead of braid for dec
orating this dress. A heavy embroid
ery floss works up rapidly, and the
pattern for decoration is a matter of
the individual's fancy, though it
should not be overdone.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
All Sorts of Airy and Dainty Aprons
The Beach Bonnet, and Others
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THE simplest of wraps both for chil
dren and grownups happeus to
1 the strongest feature of the new
tall styles. This Is the cape. It w&j
Inconceivable that It should be dernl
oped in so many variations of share
nd combinations with other gar
nnts until the fact was apparent
Now we have ions nUtn cat cover
ing tne figure, half length and three
quarter length capes (some of them
xa combination with other wrap and
bearly always detachable), and others
that are short and used as a touch
of style on coats. So that the cape
anay be accepted and used la any way
be Individual chouees.
A pretty cape for a school girl Is
hown In the picture. Such a simple
carmeat la easily made at home, and
nothlnc could be better for tbe cool
lays of autumn and the long Indian
trammer. Thla cape la made of a
father heavy woolen fabric in a fancy
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Cheviot Any of tie standard woolens
am appropriate tor these capes, and
Twa shall them ta lerge. broad
lota. cheviot. Scotch mlxtnre, home
tpoa and various novelty weavea The
-ld reliable staple colors, dark blue,
brown, gray, and the dark red make
Uik bst choice for chlhlren Th.
cares are llr.(d either with plain mate
ria or witn utrtpes or ptaids.
Vhn the home dressmaker under
takes to make a cat she should pro
vide herlf with a pattern In order
to get the adjuHtmect over the shoul-
ars as It should be. Some capes
ttare more than others, also, and the
finishing at the neck varies, as do the
methods of fastening.
It. would be difficult to find a more
desirable model than the one pictured
here. It is so managHd that it may
be fastened up about the throat when
required, by buttoas and loops on the
under side. Straps crossing In front
hold It In place when it Is worn open
at the front, as shown in the picture.
In keeping with th fad rn .,.
hata. caps to match capes or other
wrap keep pace with the times. The
cap ahowa tntfce picture Is a type
llluatratlng this lashlon. Patterns
for thla and for Tam and for sim
ple cloth hats are sd fcv all mtud.
ard paper pattern companies.
. ... Julia orrom.tY.
TWO very pretty bonr.pt3 which illus
( trate l:ttl frivolities of headwear
j in which the summer girl is privileged
i to induise herself are shown here. One
j of them, the beach bonnet, is pat
I ten.ed :ifter the sun bonnet of hng
j ago. But tt is made of less substun
' tial materials and suggests a short
tile and a merry one tor its own es
! 1 erience. The beach bonnet 'Is also
called a garden bonnet, and Is. in fact.
a tun bonnet to be put on for the
: tracitcal purpose of shading the eyes
j and face whenever the girl on an out
' uig may need it
These beach bonnets are made of
thin wash fabrics, such as dimity, fig
ured lawns, organdies, cotton crepes,
or any of the semi-transparent fabrics.
They are trimmed with val laces. The
bonnet in the picture is made of a
lavender lawn. The brim 1b stiffened
with an interlining of crinoline having
a fine thread-wire sewed about the
edge. It Is trimmed with a band of
the lawn edged with val lace, which
extends around the crown and forms
two rosettes at the front. The crown
Is simply a puff of lawn.
These little bonnets made as de
scribed may be successfully laundered
If they are taken apart and the work
very carefully done. In this case the
brims are to be a little stiffened with
starch. But laundering la really not
counted tn when they are constructed.
The cost next to nothing and the
same lace will serve on a new bonnet
They are very pretty In Bowered lawns
and In the quaint figured cotton ere pea
Tbe brims must not be too tUfi. to
they are supposed to be "floppy- abont
the face. "
- A. much more ambitious bonnet, de
signed tor garden parties or other fes
tivities, and one which win do service
both winter and summer, is shown in
two views. It is made of velvet and
lace. Ribbcn and flowers are used ia
decorating this highly picturesque es
:mple of iieadwear from Carlior of
Pr.ris. A bennct of this kind is mad-M-cr
a light wire i:ti.v It is net a:;
-y mater to ticcjcUeh it u-.oij
i-ne understand s something of the art
i f Ue professional u:iU;uer. In fact.
to mako so unusual a piece of head
war requires much exercise of skill
The example shown In the model Is
fascinating and full of distinction. It
"ill prove a valuable asset to the
smart woman who has occasion to vary
her millinery.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Wraca for Evenlna.
Old shawls make capital evening
cloaks edged with lace and lined with
a color. Persian and oriental shawls
are best adapted to the purpose. Mex
ican shawls can be turned to the best
account in tbe toilet but old scarfs
are Invaluable for negligees mixed
with tulle and Bowers, and they drape
evening dresses to great perfection.
Scarfs will make panel backs to skirts,
held together with any material that
best assimilates with them.
Spice Sachet
"A satisfactory sachet for scenting
powder or putting into little bags
among your clothes or household linen
is made for the most part of ordinary
spices from the pantry shelf.' it calls
tor equal quantities of ground mace,
nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and cara
way seed. All these spices should be
freshly gwed.' so that they will be
full of spicy odor. Weigh the com
bined Ingredients and add the tarn
amount of orris root, ground. i
IX GOME parts of this country the
pretty custom of serving guests
with light refreshments at Eve o'clock
tsa, or ca oihcr informal occasions
has always bi en tr.kcn care of by the
d.-.u;I::,..-j cr ycL.-.g women of the
tern. ! ;:!J. This intimate method of
service is almost a universal fashion
-nd it is to bs hoped will become ona
cf our rstb.:shed customs.
All rtvu cf ni.-y and dainty aprons
ir.r-.de punrly for de oration and Bug-o-'Mica
tavo b:ea (!t.-ljncd for tho
ear of t.K.o charming servitors. Fcr
these 'tprcas tii ; li,;hr.est and sheerest
of fab Ws are chosen, ranging from
f ne nets, through Swisses and organ
dies to flcv.tred lawns, dimities and
ell similar fabrics. The fine wash
laces and satin ribbons are used for
decorating. The narrow lace head
ings, sewed In patterns, simulating!
bow-knots of ribbon, flower-forms or
graceful scrolls, are machine stitched
to tho fabric. This beading serves to
carry baby ribbon and to provide a
decoration in keeping with any color
scheme. Narrow insertions and frills
cf lace are used in any way the fancy
of the maker may dictate. The re
sult is that there la no end to the
variations of these, little decorative
accessories.
Aprons of this kind are all small
and cut in graceful and fanciful
shapes. Just now a heart-shaped
apron, is much In vogue. Sometimes It
is developed with a little heart-shaped
bib attached. Ribbon decorations are
nearly always In a color. -
Two Illustrations are , given here
showing the latest fancies of the
apron makers. One of them la an apron
of plain white net trimmed with bands
of organdie In white or any desired
color. Such an apron la prettily de
veloped In light-colored nets and
trimmed with ribbon. It may he pro
vided with a pocket and farther em
bellished with- little ribbon bows.
An apron of plain white organdie
tr tamed with narrow lace U showa;
In the second picture. Its novel fee
ture is the separate pocket, or reti
cule, made of the organdie and lace,
which hangs from the waistband. Sat
in ribbcn in pink or blue is used foi
the bows which flniEh it.
Flowered organdies and lawns are
used for these aprons and for the
more practical sewing aprons which
are made in the same size.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Medallion for Bag.
In making thi3 bag, a circle should
first be drawn on the silk and then
the design, marked, traced directly on
to the material from the paper, by
means of carbon paper. The embroid
ery should then be done either entirely
In satin stitch, or a combination oi
satin and outline stitch. A circle oi
cardboard cut to fit the medallion is
then sewed into place between outer
silk and lining, and after this Is fin
ished the bag may then be made up.
Silk Ribbon Belts.
A favorite way of finishing the
waist line when separate skirt, and
blouses are worn la with a ribbon oi
silk belt Wide ribbon that can be f
laid In folds or taffeta or satin can be
used. One way of giving a smart fin
ish to these belts is to work button
holes in two little pointed ends of rib
boa in front and button these ove
colored glass or bone buttons.
. To Fringe Material.
vThen fringing anything requiring
a deep fringe, tear it np as deep as
yon want the fringe at intervals ol
a finger or so all the way across
the end, then fringe out these' short
pieces one by one, which is a much
easier way than pulling oat a long
thread every time and having It break
and being obliged to hsnt for the end
with pla or need!, - t