SATURDAY. OCTOBER 10, 1914 WILL FICKLE j FASHION FAVOR ! FIG LEAVES?: THE N KW KVFAIMi (.OWNS A K E I'OSIIMKI.V THE NEXT THINd TO IT. FLIMSINESS THE FAB N0Wj Fur (in I'nx-ks, Marjiinc Man r i inl and Scant) Skirt K tr thins In Women' Wear Ilium to the IliKh Waint I.ine. (Written for the I'nited I'm--) Though Siimiiii utid Sully Are not ot the ImMet Their new itl.irts ate n sweet ; Tor since it':, their pa T.i tollow tli - i iishion They've ut them a' " feet. short lut tVO smdil New York, Oct. It). I Haw an ex hibition of importe.l jrarments at u hijf department more this week that had run the (faun1'1'1 frorn ,'ari' to Havre pocked in huge osier l.i.-ikets and lashed on the hack of a touri.iir car. They seemed not the lea .t hit the worse for the year of war. The mom striking feature of the whole collection was the fart that each and every skirt we c.it off short to the tops of the high shoes. Possibly their hurried journey instead f making them arrive breathless with short "pants" had acted in a similar manner upon their skirts. Whatever the cause, however, the ef fect is an exposure of well turned ankles that seems just barely skirt ing the conventions. Next to the shortness of the skirts the most startling note is the almost total lack of anything tangible in the bodices. Positively they consist of i 0 . II. : . .. merely a wisp oi nine pussnm each shoulder for a high girdle to cling to desperately. Naturally this is only true of the evening gowns. One of the prettiest of these is of pale pink velvet with high girdle and a tunic that is long on one hip and short on the other. The underskirt is of white satin and between it and the pink velvet upper j tunic is an intermediary tunic of ex quisite gold embroidered net. The bodise, of course consists of the , velvet girdle tiupplemented by a alight drapery of the gold net and the white tulle caught up on each shoul-1 der with a small gold embroidered ornament. A charming model for a debutante , i.s of palest pink taffeta with a skirt j of four-corded flounces flaring out ' quaintly like a veritable crinoline. A ; full rose nestling in the high giidle anl billows of softest Mush (I should j think it would) pink tulle, reveals a Btiowy throat and perfect arms to the best advantage. Another striking evening gown of black lace over white satin has a wide piece of the black chantilly caught at each shoulder that falls behind straight to the floor like a train. Another novel use of black chan tilly on a black velvet gown pre cludes the wearer from any wild ges iculation. The hue is caught on each :dde of the girdle in front, passed over the shoulders like a cape the width f the hue being the whole length of the arms. It is sewed up into long tight sleeves, through which the arms are slipped and then the lace keeps on its way around into the circular cape effect and is caught in the middle of the girdle behind. Hence the wearer looks as if she had fiproiitcd a pair of Chantilly wings which she undoubtedly ('lids very iiu somu when she feels her back hair needs fixing. Among the suits and afternoon frocks fur is all and everywhere. Fitch .skunk and our old friend, the lycaver are the favorites. The new est collars shown on the coat suits are deep tint effects that reach from we snouiucr to stuuiMer in ttie rear without inliduing in the front a lit tle bit. They are mostly of the fur, but a few are developed in heavy silk or velvet. Itluek velvet, by the way, and black satin form most of the af ternoon gowns while gabardines, vel vets and broadcloths compose the smartest suits. On the gowns and waistlines are preferably long and either tighttit ting or showing the loose straight line. The separate waists and the blouses to the coat suits all show the high waistline. In the whole collec tion there isn't frock or a suit that doesn't have some glint of a gold or nament, a shimmer of sequins, a gleam of jet or the shine of a but ton or bead. This year all that glitters is not gold! It's sequins, spangles and what you will, just so it gleams, or flints or glistens. 1 millinery That v tf 1 THE three hats which race this pago are entitled to b' culled faultless millinery. And a hat must measure up to many rwjuireni'-ntB to be so classed First of all. it must be beautiful, then It must be per fectly adapted to the occasions upon which It is to bi worn, and It must, of course, be up to the minute In style and show the un of new trimmings in a clever manner. A hat of velvet Is shown In the cen ter It Is mado on a frame, which rolls upward at the left side, into a grace ful and slightly curved brim and is without an upward roll at the right side. The velvet Is put on with per fect smoothness and follows all the curves of the frame exactly. At the top of the crown a soft overhanging puff, In a manner of the tam. Is draped to follow tho lines of the brim. Be low thl ' a collar of satin extends about the hat. At the right side, to ward the front, the crown is tacked to the brim and Is brought down over the collar. This point makes a splen- did position for one of those novelties . . 1 ... .1 . .. T .. (Ua rn . i r, of the season In flowers. In this case Is Is a roso, with a cluster of small unopened buds In metallic fabric set In Ivy leaves with a niother-of pearl surface. In this hat we have novelty of shape as well as novelty of trim ming, and everyone will concede that It is a beautiful bit of millinery. A sailor hat of plush and silver cloth suited to the whiter season Is hown on tho right. The shape is not new but Is graceful and finished with a soft puff in the top of the crown, which Is a characteristic of the sea son. The side crown Is a band of plush surmounted by a collar of fur. The only trimming Is a small quill of hitver spangles fastened with a little Jet ribochon. The model pictured here Irt nude tip in se:il plush with :i collar of skunk fur. I', mnyyffe copied In bro-ultail 'plush or cjfiichll!:i, usin tho s:nio ' clot I' f sl'ver tc ; ciovn. Willi se::i .plu.li or any of tli.' bnv.Mi tor.nl 'plushes. !.')! h of fccM can be stilv.M- MOVEMENT FOR RELIEF Or WIDOWS An international movement for the relief of the distressed wives, chil- ! dren and other relatives and depend ents of soldiers involved in the weild war has been organized and is con ducting a campaign for funds with which to carry on the Mercy Work. The off. it is lieiinr made by the Committee of Mercy which it, beadjiiurters at No. ::.'!(! Fifth Avenue Huildmg, New York. Tin resident of the organia'-ou is i he lion. Fl.hu Koot. I'. S. ena(or J from New York. Its treasurer is August Hclninnt, to whom contribution-, may be I'm warded. The nlar. lias tiie endorsement of i'lv-i.ii't'.t W'oeilrciw Wilson, who, consistent uith bis attitude of neutrality, rtcogi : cd i he ncce .-.ity for a inoemer.t to ie lice the mm-combatants of all na tions involved in the struggle. 'I he field of the l;-d Cro, i- t minister to the sick end w.'nu'cd .soldiers. The mission of the Committ'V of Mercy is to help those left behind by the soldiers. Kclief will lie ;rivci t) such, no matter wliciv they re.-,,'e The va-t number ,n the ''nite-l States will be aid-.' I is well a the in digent and suffering in the theater of the European war. Among those interested m the movement and who h.u" taken up the active ,.ik in N.nv v,,rk 4,lv: JliSv Katherine H. Iavis. Chas. W. Eliot. Mrs. Borden Harrir.ian, Hon. ,'ohn Turroy Mitchell, Mr. Norman Map good, Mrs. Harry Payne W'hitie;.-, Miss Ida M. Tarbeil, IVof. Wm. M. Sloane. Mrs. August Belmont, Mrs. Walter Maynard. Prince Paul Trou betskoy, Mr. T. C. Glen-Coats, Mr. Frank Croishield, Count A. Siers torplT, Mr. Vincent Astor, Mrs!. Chas. R. Crane, Mr. G. Limlenthal, Mrs. W. I. Sloane. Gertrude Atherton, Mrs. Melville E. Stone. Mr. Leon Schinasi, Frof. M. I. Pupin, Mr. John Moffat, Is Faultless ttited for the silver with equally goot effect. The simplicity which marks the two hats alrei-dy described is emphasized In the beautiful draped turban shown on the left. This hat Is apparently a length of velvet with bias euds tied about a frame. This, at any rate, is what its drapings suggest. Cut in reality it is not quite so simple as it looks, and the fine hand of the artist ia shown in this management of ma- terlals. Tho frame is, in fact, draped with a length of velvet which forms at the same time its facing. But the point ed ends are made of separate pieces These pieces are lined with silver cloth and tied Together with a single knot. Yet they seem to be a part oi the body of the hat. These three examples of the best art of the milliner are classed as tailored hats. If one is to Indulge in but one hat. It should be selected from this class. A tailored hat, possessing the distinction of those shown here may be worn with almost any toi lette. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. New Style Features to a Gown. Is It now or is It not new, is the question asked of every gown as it makes its appearance either at the be ginning, middle or end of the season To have one new feature is not to be new by any mer.ns. A gown must have several to be thoroughly and complete ly up to date. A gown of satin with a softly gathered tunic, a semi-fitting basque; a coachman's cape af.d sleeves and bodice of chiffon bears the steami of extreme chle. Fittsd Bodices Coming. There seems no doubt now that bj autumn fitted bodices will be upon us Some of the most authoritative frocks for summer wear show decided signs of "i!iptiin; In" at the waist line and bi b tv.e bust in front, ar.d some ttiiir-i this fitted e:Tect is achlevet :th the old-fashioned daft seams. THE MISSING LINK EXISTS, HE SAYS Col. I'ierson, who was in charge of the Robinson expedition to equator ial Africa, relates the following: "In the far depths of the equator ial forest we were very much aston ished on several occasions to heat voices, apparently of men, conversing in outlandish gibberish. Whatever it was, it kept out of sight, disappear ing into the jungle at their approach. "One day, however, we dashed on and came upon a tribe of giant apes, which immediately took to the tree tops with the most incredible speed and agility. From their lofty perch they broke off' limbs and hurled them nt the invaders with dangerous force am! accuracy, all the time 'talking to each other' in a t range, hoarse voice, soundiMg for all the world like a man with a bad cold. "Kffotts- were made to capture some spo. imens, but they were too cunning an. I waiy for the most ignenious traps i.p 1 baits. Their senses were so acute that they would not approach within many yards of any object that had ever been touched by human hands." Col. Piorson .-riot two or three, which he has stuffed and placed on exhibition. He is firmly convinced that this is the much sought-for miss ing link that connects man with the monkey. Robinson's famous shows will ex hibit many specimens of strange and rare beasts when they exhibit in Kin ston on Thursday, October !.". INDIANAPOLIS TAKES FEDERAL LEAGUE FLAG Indianapolis, Ind., Oct. 7. By wir ni i - from St. Louis Wednesday In dianapolis captured the Federal league pennant. Mr. Carl Beck. Mrs. V. K. Draper, secretary of the New York Chapter of the Red Cross and Mr. Samuel Lewisohn. OORZIAT SOARS HIGH IN A NEW PLAY, "TIIE HAWK" FRF.M H STAR 1LLI MINKS GAY liliuADWAY IN ADMIRABLE IMPORTED PIECE. A SPLENDID PRODUCTION Dc (.rois-et's Work Would Be a Suc cess With Most Any Old Cast A Modern Version of An Old and Interesting Story. By Beau P.ialto. (W'ntten for the United Press.) New York. Oct. 10. A new star has blazed her way to success on Broadway. Overnight, as it were, Mile. Gabrielle Dorziat mounted to the dizzy heights of popularity as a stage success in America, completely winning a critical first-night audience by her masterly and superb acting. Mile. Dorziat, who long ago won a name for herself in France, made her debut in New Y'ork and America at the Shubert in "The Hawk." The occasion was rather a memorable one, as William Faversham returned to us in a modern character, in such a part as first made him famous. He scored a few new success, too, for his welcome was great and deserved. "The Hawk" proved to be the best French play presented here since "The Thief." It is by Francis de Croisset. The audience was com pletely held by the play and the act ing of Faversham and the new star all the way. The play itself would have been a tremendous success with out the stars with them it was won derful. It is the old human triangle pre sented with an entirely new version that pleased immensely. It is the ex citing emotional story of two Hunga rian confidence people, married and clothed with seeming respectability. They win their way into a fast, young set in Paris and endeavor to cheat a rich American at cards. The woman ultimately captivates the son of their host. Later, while his love for her is at its height, he detects her in the act of handing a A good meal a tickled palate a comfortable snug ness about the belt. And he is amiability personified. You young wives and some of you older ones. Take the suggestion. It's worth the while. "Feed him well." It pays big dividends. But don't attempt it with a cheap or broken down Range. Get a good one. A good cook needs good tools. Poor coffee, soggy potatoes, heavy breed, half cooked steaks leaden biscuits ell due to imperfect combustion cherp construction uneven oven heat mechanical faults in ff. It is the one "star" performer miss it if you fail to drop in and see IB !il See the name "Cole's" on ' each Range. None genuine without it II. E. Moseley Hdw card to her husband. She quails be fore his denunciation and when he ask her she gives up her husband, the gambler, and flees with him. Nine months later she returns to the brok en gambler, and it is in that final scene that Mme. Dorziat does her greatest bit of acting. She did none of the things that emotional actresses are accustomed to do iii their moments of stage stress but just the same she brought her au dience to tears. raversham took the part of her husband and as before stated, his acting was superb. In fact, only once before has he appeared to such good advantage and piat was when he was here in Bronson Howard's "Aris- tocracy." Conway Tearle as the young lover of the wife was the best of the sup porting ca.-t. EARLY CHRISTMAS SHOPPING AS AID TO BUSINESS. Chicago, Oct. iv. a "uo your Christmas shopping early" move ment with a double purpose was to day launched by the Consumers League of Illinois. "Business everywhere is so slack that we are trying to get everybody to do their Christmas by buying ear ly to prevent many working girls from being discharged," said Miss El sa W'ertheim, secretary of the league. "If we can get people all over the country to do their Christmas shop ping now, or at least to get started, present trade conditions will be stim ulated and there will be a steady flow of business until the first of the year when business conditions should re turn to normal. This may save thou sands of employes, particularly girls in the department stores, from being discharged. Of course, it will also prevent overworking them later in the holiday season when the aching and frazzled nerves of the shop girl makes Christmas anything but a time of gladness and good will." YOUR FALL COLD NEEDS ATTENTION No use to fuss and try to wear it out. It wil wear you out instead. Take Dr. King's New Discovery, relief follows quickly. It checks your Cold and Soothes your Cough away. Plea sant, Antiseptic and Healing. Chil dren like it. Get a 50c bottle of Dr. King's New Discovery and keep it in the house. "Our family Cough and Cold Doctor" writes Lewis Chamber lain, Manchester, Ohio. Money back if not satisfied, but it always helps. Adv. J making: You have enough to overcome without these unnecessary troubles. Avoid them all by getting tho Range of perfect design and construction. The Range made faultless by 20 years of perfect ing experiments. The Range that gives absolute satisfaction in service. Cole's Hot R It embodies the only improvements made in Range construction in 20 years. Burns soft coal hard coal or wood. in the Range market and you will it. It is now on show. COME IN. NORFOLK-SOUTHERN RAILROAD ROUTE OF THE "NIGHT EXPRESS" (Schedule in Effect October 4, 1914 ) N, B. The following schedule fig ures published as information onlv and are not guaranteed. TRAINS LEAYE KINSTON: East Bound 11:21 p.m. "Night Express," Pull man Sleeping Cars New Bern to Norfolk, folk. 7:50 a. m. Daily, for Washington and Norfolk. Con nects for all points North and West. Par lor Car Service be tween New Bern and Norfolk. 4:41 p.m. Daily for Beaufort and Oriental. West Bound 5:40 a. m. Daily for Goldsboro. 10:28 a. m. Daily for Goldsboro. 7:35 p.m. Daily for Goldsboro. "For complete information or re servation of Pullman Sleeping Car space, apply to W. J. Nicholson, Agent, Kinston, N. C. H. s. T.tfARn General Superintendent, Norfolk, Va. J. u. STACK, General Passenger Agent. CAROLINA RAILROAD TIME TABLE NO, 1. Effective October 4, 1914, 6:00 a. m. First class freight and passenger South Bound North Bound 332 Daily. 333 Daily. P. M. 5:00 s 5:07 f 5:21 s 5:32 s 5:43 f 5:50 6:00 STATIONS M. 7:35 s 7:29 f 7:16 s 7:11 s 7:01 6:55 6:45 Ar Kinston Lv. Hines Junction Pools Dawson Glenfield Suggs Siding Lv Snow Hill Ar All trains goverened by the Nor flok Southern rules while using their track from Kinston to Hines Junc tion, and subject to the orders of its superintendent. The above schedule is given as in formation only, and is supposed to be the time that trains will arrive and depart, but it is not guaranteed. WM. HAYES, General Superintendent. R. A. HONEYUTT, Superintendent. Kinston, N. C. G. A. JONES, F. & P. A. Snow Hill,. N. C. Blast ange' . uO. Xmwl: