Newspapers / The Morning Post (Raleigh, … / Feb. 8, 1903, edition 1 / Page 9
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l " """'. '' - ,m 1 " ' 1 1 , 1 : SUNDAY -MORNING,. 'FEBRUARY 8, 1003. - , IliiiBl .-: Lqto Winter ris PqshiQns. 'Jjfaggg I mswmfflm wBmmi : mmmm, rmm?mmmmm Mmmummmmr mm:im mmmmMmmM ... V-.v s .?-::CTV.-ii., i..r . ;,. , Ivory Crepe tie Clalae tliomsr The Qnestloa Of Sleeves Oa -i'--kcr acd reff makers p.itroo t- -coo?!uj i:-oie.s for .--pr.us and - IiJ'I.j; boj.j a rv iraJj cu cj-J .'. cver xciixi is auJ r.uat U ut r. f j-i ! cf ttt ! wlrtcr prerr.t cortraitlt.; point sctl It ! : Ott-:av. rpvt fMia: '. the rortecl - . rjr ihc itotnt-n: appar3tl.r dc- f..:c t a :u.-:t cwuis? : . .. u;it : lo np n tatc. Siati W lar.;t cr tliall they : . a:::: tr b.:i ti ty t v to tr.T- x- t.T.t t!: s:t:i ttv wonltJ fit r : . . ;-lvIIItT tjrlocf to ary one but ' :-rf?--"V .'Mw'1 i .-J-v(-, : sr.-.-iK? erTlce.bl. Dl-e SerBe FrPtl.. " XD. Ir : '-.If: 5 ... I '. ' ' " " T ".V"' rrr-!' I -nltb Cinq? LateV (?omnlii ) The New Spring Models. f c!3trs? If la'ratJcl U ti pan of a Dan -atra shall .rr -iiti.-t iu"y ' Jfwc lld strap over tUe fioa'(3cr aud a tight iov.M or ikiow tnc iP tl iLe una. or hjll th lTfr bare n bsutl cf .ce sI rrotn tte bcr.il of lace sbst! thro float' xvlrslike pircfn of trh'.ffjB. or rntirr. gold or Mlvc-r panj:t J ii cither plain or plccted? If ln-t-:nti il f"r n tiO-t ;oira the 1c?tps le oi?ff.r.vrclv vr: il-p frlr above tie fi:,4W fceld dorrn l stitched pleats ortneks, ar 1 bf ln- the cIT.otr arranged in bar "hape ;-.ih'r.il isto a tuo; rr cj1? at the wrist, or ha:i the sIcctc hn tinned btlovr the elbow stu fu:i paffs of cUirTon lace or velvet be In- -, Pill 'lilil - MMiiB . Kii vvv i-;-'' -lit Blontscllne Crrnlns srrted? These are a few of the frnestlens' villi hliipi- n wonmr: lias 'o coctead if sli' wishes to be considered and to consider her relf fashionably nttjred. .-A It would not be possible wltb waists made with big sleeves to have th sleeves of thr outer garments nimle small, and ' conse quently all coats ard Jackets are now turned, out with sleeves of exaggerated sire. . The. newest tailor gowns with the plain coats nave rot yielded to he new fad. and thr f'ceves are cut rr.cdiata in size, but either f ire a: the wrist or have a puff below the. elbow gathered vith a !ai:d at the "vt'risr. For th nmnipnt t!-e newest coat sleeve f both comfortab:e and attractive In appear ance, for It hnt enough fulnens at the nrm uole. and. whl It dots not tit close to tlie arm. still It onfllncs the h-pc la a most b?-' comlr.g fashion, ard at the same time -Is V coat sleeve ard rot n fanciful dress -JtcTP. always Innpproprlr.te with co'nt or Jacket." The sleeve thnt have a little fniness at the. top aril stilloutlinethearm above the c.bow. but which are full le!ow and look almost awkviardlv loug. are smart. -spet'Iallv when f.nlvhfd with a plain cr embroidered velvet' i cuff, and are euectlve In the cloths, either, ronzb or smooth, that are fashionable this season. . . . ! Ban gowns and dinner gowns xfcow core than any the entire ehanze of fashicn'Ia' flerves, and most fe:et-fu: atd bi-cotnlng are for Jfye As fashion decrees that children's clotliln?; at present shall be perfect In simplicity, the hotae ewer may turn out garmeatsor nor chlldrra that will compare with those sold, at high prices. The lltMc loose coat seen la. the Illustration Is one of the approved stylev ftr children and may be worn by boys or girls," Usually bating a leather belt addeitfor; boys, especially for those who do not wear; frocks underneath. Two backs ore shown' lo the sketch. The lower one Is a prettyC variation when making th coat for a. toy, It makes the garment straighter and Is quit finished without a belt. The pattern Is an; SCinary sacqoe shape, wits - seams at the: side only. It has triple shoulder capes cot1 without much dip at back and-' front, after, tte fashion of a Newmarket 'drlTinff coat The sleeves are cat each with one seam only.", from a fitting coat sleere shaper with the back sesm Joined from the shoulder' down-. Goitd AVitli Ribbon and Lace Trlniailngr. (Hallee Olemcrt.) u)--iny. of the thiu -Vined fabrics that are used ia the long wlnwKe effects. In chiffon and tulle, these long floating wing?, haded with band of lace or Jewelled passementerie, are most forceful and becoming. The black and white nets, with gold or silver spangles, 'find the thin long sleeves cf the plain material, with only Just an embroidered edge, are so effective. The only wonder i that the fashion did not become popular Jong ago. In sharp contrast to these long sleeves are the waists made with only the shortest puCf, "ht-den under the bertha of lace, which is the favorite trimming for the ball gown. A close fitting sleeve, liut mcde of enough ma terial to allow of the folds !rlng pushed up to give a soft effect, and finished with rufik of.lace. In another favorite design, while the wftist cut well off "the shoulders, and with cnly a harl of Jewels, a Jewel embroiderc! lace over the shoulder and below the top of the arm. Is r.nri her fad It cannot rightly be called a fashion. .T!e dinner gown that 5 the iroct fnshln r.ble at the moment Is madp with sleeves, brft only transparent and plcturesqne ones. Tlie chenille lattice, caught down with dia- . rcorid or rhlcestore buttons, is most brilliant and becoming, and a favorite fashion is a sleeve, crbow length, made of this lattice and finished with a fringe. Not one Inch of unnecessary fulness Is there in the sleeve Jore Dressmaker'. ward as far ns will permit It to He flat. The two front edges are then folded to meet, atd the back of sleeve Is placed to a fold of the cloth, the wrist slope being continued tff.the fold and so making a slight bell effect. A turn back cuff of the cloth, stitehed or of velvet. In which.'case the top cape Is also of velvet, makes It s!t out nicely. The same sleeve may be finished with a wristband if preferred. ' ;Box cloth, tweed serge, zlbellne or any firm material may be used; for a boy's wear '.box cloth Is smarter than anything else, as the edges may be left raw. Taffeta silk In terllnedmakes a pretty garment for a little glri, but this must also be lined with silk cr satin, or the effect Is Inferior. Fine Ital ian cloth makes a good lining for cloth, as, being wool, it Is warm and light. n The necessary quantity of 52-incn wide ma which is becoming to a well shaped arm, but exceedingly trying to a badly shaped one. The lace net, with spangles of gold, silver or rhinestonc-s. pat on to form crossed lines, is also used for this stylo of sleeve, the only finish for which i the single or double mate cf lace. Oddly. enough the long, tight fitting sleeve, the most becoming of all styles. Ms rarely seen excepting in the spangled lace, and even then is not ranked as very smart. Long drooping shoulders are the correct sfv!e In all the new p"-". and the lace co'llaf or caoe full well over the. upper part cf the sleeves so that th tl?ht fitting upper sleeve must needs bo in fashion for some time to corce. Ue!ow- the'elbow there may be puffs or ruffles of lace r.gain or the sleeve fcmay end at the elbow; those points can be decided by IcdivMr.nl taste, only the upper part of flic arm is -outlined. This is not s. inconsistent as might be thonght. for with the upper part of. a sleeve large and full, the size of the figure Is increased In a very unbecoming way, even to a tall and slender figure". -;r And for the bene -it of those women wao have to be 'content with last year's forms there is a very easy way to remodel the old sleeves, by slashing them below the elbow an Inserting puffs f chiffon, satin or vel vet, which "puffs are then gathered into ''a baud at the wrist, and the effect Is of as np to date form. terial Is one yard and three-eighths, allowing for n twenty-three or twenty-four Inch length down the centre of the front. To Cut It Ont. If. with back No. 1, dia gram' one. shows how to place the several parts to the, best advantage In the cloth, foideu as when purchased. The centres of the back ardvof the two lower shoulder capes are placed to the fold, the smaller cape Is placed at full size and need not be cut through the double cloth, but to be In keeping with th other two a straight thread should run down tie centre at the back. Diagram S shows "how '-.to cat It witTi the back altered; the dotted lines indicate the fold; as fn diagram 1, the lines show how to alter It, and, placing th side edge on the straight, to cat the back edge to fit fairly closely to" Just below the waist, then, to edd J a UttJc eitra width to make good plaits. If OB t the If ew Spring Styles. c.JTnmty.- necessary the facings for the fronts may be joined' near the lower endj if well pressed they will not be obvious and, may often ef fect a great saving of cloth. . For the cuffs cut a strip to match the wrist edge of sleeve; as dotted in diagram 1, and In putting thfm oa turn them upside down so that the upper edge will stand out a little. As Italian cloth is flfty-four inches wide, the fronts are only required to meet the innerxsdges of thocloth facings, and as it is not necessary te line th "C' v-i., v. . The sleeve lining must be cut to match the cloth, but the back should be a little wider, at the top corner, and exact at the lower one, so as to allow a plait In the lining at the ' middle of the neck. " . To Make the Coat. Carefully mark nil the seam lines on the wrong side of both cloth and lining, using a piece of tailors' chalk, which will .make quite a thin,' -firm line, or tack it with white thread.. - Next tack up the seaWs and try on th gr.rment, and b sure. It any. alteration ,1s made, ro see that bath sides exactly agree, and re-mark them for the stitching, wblci next do. Notch the se"am edges -at Inter vals, cutting them slantwise, and well press them, dampening the seam by placing a finger in warm water and passing It aJong lo front of the Iron; ajso stitch and press ths lining seams. . '. ' Next lay the front . facings to the cloth, right sides meeting, and stitch "them to gether at the front and lower edges with a , DIAGRAU Z- small turning. Carefully cut off the corner of the. turnings, so when both are folded up ward they will not overlup; then turn It right side out and tack anil prem It so I'Jtl the seam is exnetly on the edje and nice and sharp. Tack back the fucing and make the buttonholes, or, If not an eipTt. !-:ive these, and when all else Is l!,Uh'il g?t a tailor to ruakc them and give the roat a (inal-pvconiog. Next make the Fleeves ai;d tbe rutf. . I stitching the, latter as many tlnir as de-lV Sired. Alter facing ttiein n;icn me nn edges of cuff and !eove tog' !h r, turn thrra under and herringbone the rnw edge tu lb cloth. If the cloth is at tllMUlu l iecch. Canvas should be plncrd tiuder tb? froct facings and In the wrlt cdes, but any of the kinds quoted will-not nqulre it, Us stitching being suffieiont. . Next place the sleeve llning'ln nrl hrnl the wrist edges, but turn t'.ic top on.- d w out of the way of the ani:linlr trasn. which make In the cloth ctly. 'I'pm Hjc seam open, notching the or.e tha; requires It to make It lie flat, then tack the lining on tu coat, taking great care 'to make It eay t- the clctb, and cot forgettltg tUe plait taper ing off to nothing down tLc back, 'flea tack the armhole edge of tie .Icing along the opeped seam and htm the sleeve one over it. ,i)Ip hem all the outer cdpes over tboie of the cloth turned under. Where tare are left raw the stitching will hold theui to-, pether down the froLt. and tLe lower tdjs Of the Ilnlcs must I.e. fclip heu.zued t the back surface of the cloth only. To Ui.U tb .,ltlM if raw edged. ii;e ' i'"'-" o(l : It is better to do H.'H tb a I-' thread, cutlln? away th. r-Ti,rrsof the tura in-s and n-atiy drv.i?g i .' leluer m that they I1I be qu.te P-t. Jllk thrend to uaicta the or v .Lc c.oU f or. t h e V " W 1 u l'u s; ' v 1 1' m tUtBIa better to Join th- J "P rrC0"'alJ to the nerk of the c.ai. ' - low the neck oge 'f,ic' cr if will be made neat by t::- b ..rg VVslff ut ad thick, by l ' n:m,;;g tue l binding over the turuu-g-" . ' ' - - - - . . ..... . -: -f '.-'
The Morning Post (Raleigh, N.C.)
Standardized title groups preceding, succeeding, and alternate titles together.
Feb. 8, 1903, edition 1
9
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