THE MORNING POST: SUNDAY NOVEMBER 20, 1904.
The Way to Won,
That this Is and 1s to be a ;
,on goes without saying One after the
other all the various features ofthe
wardrobe have succumbed h crae.
end those whose purse will not admit of
having silk and chiffon velvet for all
dress and outdoor garments may take
heart of grace, for the cotton aves.
the velveteens, are Just a. highln
favor as are their cousins of the more
costly kind. ,
But. nevertheless, there are some lux
urious designs which demand the more
costly production, and these well repre
sent the acme of extravagance. For
example, there are exquisite carriage
and evening wraps of which velvet Is
the foundation, a foundation upon
which is lavished many of the real
laces, luxurious and expensive furs and
an amount of hand embroidery which
almost passes belief.
One such example Is a recent Impor
tation from that home of luxurious ex
travagance, the Rue de la Paix, be
loved of the entire world feminine. Here
a ficelle or ecru chiffon velvet is used
for the foundation garment, which
might best be described as a sleeved
cape or dolman, for It partakes of the
nature of both. The fit Is easy over
the shoulders, and from there the gar
ment falls In full and outward folds to
well below the knee, the cut being well
nigh to circular. Panels of the real hand
some Irish crochet, not cut. but made:
to the shape, are posed at Intervals
ur i the full cape portion, and the
velvet being cut away from beneath
these there is a backing of double white
chiffon provided.
The sleeve is an extreme oddity. The
arm's eye is at about the natural point,
but larger than ordinary, so as to ac
commodate comfortably the full sleeve
of the evening gown beneath. Cut in a
kite shape, the sleeve Is so draped that
the excess of fulness falls from the back
of the arm to the elbow, hanging loose
lv. and the lower part is on usual lines,
with a wide cuff of chinchilla, meeting
the velvet portion. Around the collar
less neck and down the frcnt there Is a
stole of rich, thick chinchilla, the gray
of the fur toning in well with the ecru
velvet.
The hats that accompany these luxu
rious wraps are more than likely to bo
In velvet likewise, with lace, ribbons
and plumes for trimming. There is a
delightfully wide variety as to shapes
and styles. It really would seem ns
though the milliners, as well as the
dressmakers, had gone to history for
their Inspiration, and it were well to r-e
so. for never before has there been such
necessity to have the hat in consonance
LUC
In the velvet hats the brims are all of
them wide and picturesque; while the
crown Is the point of departure for the
style. There are high-steeple crowns.
nc.ir.lnnf frowns dram rrnwno n n-l
" "O" - - - - -' . 'l.
flat mushroom shapes with no crown at
all hold their own in the season's styles
amazingly.
There Is evident a very decided lik
ing for the hat of black velvet, with
a bunch of fluffy white ostrich plumes
for trimming. This is a style which,
when developed in a becoming shape,
will prove about the most useful ad
junct, for it can be worn appropriately
for both daylight and evenfng wear, and
look "in the picture," as our artist
friends say, at all times.
And the craze for velvet has reached
such proportions that when the gown
Itself is not of the pile fabric the trim
ming simply must be. Vests, collars
end cuffs; revers. broad or narrow,
sing'.e or manifold these are all ex
pressed In velvet upon the cloth, mo
hair, cashmere and taffetas frocks. The
ceinture, or girdle, needs to be care
fully managed when planned in velvet,
for this material has a tendency to ap
parently increase the bulk, and unless
very deftly handled the result will not
be all that was hoped for.
The velvet coat, for wear' with vari
ous toilettes. Is another" item on tlv
season's catalogue; and here the rich
'"signs of the Louis Qulnze period find
adequate development. The body por
tion they are always cut in two sec
tionsmay be either closely fitted or
bloused. as best becomes the figure, al-
The Ever Popular Shirtwaist,
Silh and Chiffon Velvets In Delicate Shades For the Tailored Blouse.
The shirtwaist more than holds Its
wn as the seasons come and the sea
sons go. Unlike most other styles. It
has not had its ups and downs; it has
gone upon its uneventful career un
troubled by the vagaries of fashion, and
kept the same even vogue throughout.
Indeed, it has come to be as stable in
lt way as are any of the necessaries of
life. The only ripple upon the surface
of Its prosperity is the tendency occa
sionally by the extravagant to use rich
and luxurious materials for its fash
ioning. Thus' one sees In some of the
exclusive shops plain and severe shirt
waists of the sheerest chiffon velvet,
and in such delicate shades that they
seem to belong to the ballroom or opera
house rather than to the early morning
hours that are supposed to be devoted
to more strenuous pursuits.
For winter wear flannels are highly
favored this season, and the term flan
nel will serve to include the soft French
production, the Scotch flannel that Is
woven with a twist in the warp, and the
Bilk flannel, better perhaps known as
soielalne. for all of -whicih unshrinkable
Qualities are claimed.
Early In their career the shirtwaists
were supposed to follow the fashions in
sleeves, but gradually the regulation
shirt sleeve, pretty nearly , the same cut
as the masculine arm covering, has
come to be established as the correct
pattern for all of the wash variety. This
is seen In linens, cheviots, madrasses
and the like, as well as in the flannels
and assuredly Its simplicity and the ab-v
sence of frills brings it through the try
ing experience of the laundry In better
shape than a more elaborate design
could expect.
The velveteens In the new colorings are
vastly favored, for they fit In welL both
for the plain tailored requirements and
the drRsir .. ... . ..
a weiu ah or the
raspberry shades, from the lightest to
the. deepest, show up well In this, and
to the large range shown Bome one or
another of then tlntlntrs is mre to pmve
though 'the blouse is now considered
somewhat less of a novelty than the
fitted garment. The hip basques with
the characteristic pocket flaps can be
either closely fitted or rippled, accord
ing to the height, style and taste of
the wearer. The slender girl will find
the rippled basque very becoming, if sho
has height as well as slenderness; but
her more developed sister would better
cling to the fitted variety, as best set-
ting off her good points.
Velvet In Favor For
Dressy Appearances
Evening Wrap In Velvet, Lace Anl
Fnr.
An ecru shade of chiffon velvet makes
this imported wrap, and panels of Irish
crochet, the real -hand-made lace, are
posed effectively, the velvet being cut
away beneath. The coat is extremely
loose all around, the only semblance of
fit being over the shoulders, from which
the fuli folds fall In circular fashion.
The sleeve is odd and original, with a
bag-shaped puff at the elbow that pro
jects far to the back. Around the col
larless neck and down the . fronts a
broad band of chinchilla is used, and
the same fur furnishes the loose cuff
that finishes the sleeve.
Lnxnrr In Velvet And Lace.
The most popular and assuredly the
most 'practical of evening wraps are
those that are built upon cape lines.
Indeed, many of the best of them can
be best described as sleeved capes, so
loose and full are they. The model of
the picture is In .creamy white chiffon
m
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XV
becoming.
With the black and darker colorings
In velveteen as well as In velvet, the
real lace collars and cuffs that are such
a fad, show up delightfully. At first
thought there seems to be something
Incongruous in the combination of real
laces and a shirtwaist. But here Is
where a nice discrimination must be ex
ercised; for while some of the real laces
are in the extreme of the vogue in this
connection, there are others that It were
almost a -sacrilege, a sartorial sacrilege,
to use except when one is en grande
toilette. The coarser and less valuable
kinds are what are used with the shirt
waist or shirtwaist suit. The torchon
a recent restoration to fashion's favor
Cluny, Maltese, the Irish crochet, the
Italian filet and the Russian guipures,
all of these and their congeners will go
welL But to think of using a piece of
real point d'Alencon, or Brussels, or
Duchesse or Bruges perish the thought!
For more utilitarian wear there are
very serviceable blouses of slclllenne,
and the new weaves in this are as soft
and sheer as a foulard silk would be.
"Very often a skirt is fashioned with "this
blouse, for there Is no letup to the voguo
of the shirtwaist suit.
Belts are a very Important Item with
the shirtwaist. The -new figure lays
such emphasis upon the curves of the
waistline that much care must be used
In their selection. - The absence of any
pouch or bagglness in the front brings
the belt Into greater prominence than
heretofore. In the case of silk or velvet
or even flannel shirtwaists there Is often
a belt-oi&de of the -naterial, for this has
a tendency Jto -lengthen the waistline;
whereas, a belt of the skirt material, or
of some contrasting stuff, will undoubt
edly maJse it appear shorter.
The slender curve of the waistline can
be cleverly emphasized by making the
belt fairly high In the back and bringing
it around to the front with a decided
slope, this slope being confined to the
upper edge only.' ,-. '
1MB
velvet, with much Cluny lace and hand
embroidered motifs 'wrought in chenille
threads of piquantly contrasting shades.
The lace makes the upper part of the
wrap and the sleeves as well, the shoul
der portion being continued in stole de
sign down the fronts, where the fasten
ing is concealed under a mass of plisse
chiffon rufilings. All around the gar
ment is bordered with the chenille
wrought medallions, these heading a
thick chenille fringe, wfclle over the
shoulder on either side Is posed n Rus
sian sable skin. the little tails and claws
hanging - over the arm and the head
portions meeting in the center of the
collar at the back. .
The Separate Velvet Cont.
Separate coats and wraps in the heav
ier velvets are among the popular items
of the season, and of these , the Louis
Qulnze shapes are the most admired.
The upper part of the coatls loose and
on the blouse, order, while the h!p,
basques are cut- to follow the curves of
the figure closely, rounding off at th.
fronts to display the gown underneath.
The shallow cape collar, the fronts and
puff sleeves are all elaborately deco
rated with ecru macrame. The smart
turban which accompanies this coat Is
of white Irish crochet with a broad
black velvet binding on "the edge of
the brim; and the sole trimming is in
the long lyra plume which passes all
around the hat. with the tip falling over
the brim, to rest on the hair at the left
side. . .
1V3
belts, and the shops are showing any
number of devices wherewith to shape
the belts instantly. Three or more shades
of ribbons are often sewn together,
rows of shirring stayed with feather
bones decorating the back and sides,
and the front having either a rosette or
bow to conceal the necessary hook and
eye, or else a handsome buckle of small
design.
Some sm-rt belts with chatelaine bags
en suite are shown in the more pliable
furs, moire astrakhan and yetta, which
is a calfskin with the hair left on, be
ing among recent novelties.
Tight Fitting Clothes.
The art of tight-fitting gowns, bodices
and Jackets is once more in'hlgh favor,
and the tendency of the swell costumers
is to get away from the straight-front
corsets, as they have proven to be in
jurious to the figure, as they spoil the
shape of the "wearer by giving a strong
tendency to round shoulders .because of
the lack of support given at the back
by the so-called straight front models.
The latest Parisian models are as a re
sult now differently, designed, and the
bodice foundations are always made in
three side pieces and the full puffed
sleeves have a clw.-e tight-fitting lining.
Flecked tweeds and loosely woven
materials of .every description are in
great vogue for morning gowns, and
there is but little trimming being used
on these models. The most popular
shaped skirt for street wear during the
morning is the five-seamed skirt with
square projection- at the hem about 12
inches deep, cut in one. with the
front and side pieces. But should the
material. be. too narrow the step-shape
.be 'addet. on- last season's
sKirt that is too narrow at the hem can
be easily .made wider by opening the
seams 12 or 16 inches above the hem.
and should the garment be too close fit
ilf VeVh h,P a at the back the
wais.band can be -untacked and two
tCJ ft,,? Ut aWay f,m the to to increase
the fullness. This will enable last years
VVSe,y imuale lne rand-new
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To Love or to Be Loved?
Unfortunately, that eccentricand often
irascible little blind god. Cupid, fre
quently so allots a uman's life that she
finds herself able to count with reason
able certainty upon two chances . of
matrimony. Possibly in all cases the love
of the husband and wife is of unequal
proportion, hence the question arises as,,
to whether the woman who is fortu
nate enough to have more than a Hob
son's chance should marry the man
whose love she possesses, but whom she
likes herself not quite so well, or whether
it would be better to marry the man
she herself most passionately loves, but
who. she is well a'ware, has little more
than a lukewarm affection for herself.
Of the average w-man it can safely be
said that she would be wiser rather to
give her life to the man whose love
seems so broad and vast that sometimes
it reminds her of her own love, not for
hi: , but for that other one, the reality
of whose lov she but too well doubts.'
In choosing between the most loved
an-1 the most loving man, the woman
who wishes to marry will, in nine cases
out of ten, find greatest happiness In
accepting the latter, always provid
ing that she has some liking and affec
tion for him. She should be most care
ful, however, not to allow him to marry
her under any false Impressions. That
is to say, she should expiain the exact
state of her feelings towards him, and
that it is on account of his great love
for her that she is quite content to trust
her future life and happiness in his
hands. .
When this Is done the man's love for
the woman he marries wi.l invariably
make him determined to gradually win
the true affection of his wife, until it
is equal to that which he has for her. ,
Kindness, tenderness and fidelity will
be the three guides to his conduct, and
It will, indeed, be a stubborn heart
which is not touched nd won by such
a man.
A PLUME-DRAPED CHAPE A U.
. There Is evident 'a very decided fancy
for the chapeau smartly turned up at
one .side and a full ostrich plume to
drape it. The one in the picture fol
lows this style. Black paon velvet
covers the shape, this disposed in bia3
folds around the drum-shaped crown,
puffed easily upon both upper and un
der brim, with a band of the. folds ut
cither edge. There is a deer ba.nrlfr.ii
i in the head size which sol ves to lift the
I shape off the fap, c;iitig it a vrv h-
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One's Clothes.
In the rush of modern life we ir. i
ing many previous gifts. Amor.g 0
the art of wearing. our clothes
best advantage will soon have h? h'
obsolete. All the money a wo,
spend on dress will not hlp to , ?n
her look smart if she lacks this
branch of knowledge. It is not so
the dress we wear as the car
which we put it on that makes the Mi
ference. French women possess t w
derful sense of the fitness of J'
They are said to endow the poorest' r ?"
ment with elegance. The Viennese f i
low their Parisian sisters closely'
some insist upon Destowina: the Vnm
our beautiful American. Wcn-p-onn,0!!
and exquisitely trim in her ridln hnhS
or tailor-made costume, the Enel';h
woman can compete with the VlVpe,
The healthy freshness of her be'aui!'
the delicacy of her coloring, shoul-i w '
the golden apple from her" competitor,
were It not for the fact that the
don air soon takes the crlspness out ni
chiffon, and lace frills do not thrive in
a fog. n
The woman who cannot sperd m,.
on dress generally studies the sales-tb
results are disastrous and make her re
semble a clothes peg in a-second-hand
shop. But. then, again the woman who
Is rich beyond the dreams of avarice is
often a mere block in the hands of her
dressmaker. She Is overhattod. over
dressed and over-bejeweled. Her an!
pearance is spoiled by superfluous and
unnecessary adornment.
The root of the evil is that we havs
all. rich and poor, to dress In a hurv
and this is fatal to the harmnny of
appearance. We have no , time to ro
member that this color disagrees With
that, or that true lover's knots a-e
slightly incongruous when past )'). w8
pitchfork our clothes on anyhnw Rnj
the result is an untidy display of varied
finery in which woman as the r:rt;;re
Is overshadowed and dwarfed by- the
frame." The art of putting on clothes
was the pride of a past generation. AVe
have only to look at the old world ras.
tels and miniatures to assure ourselves
that the grace with which our a tires',
.tresses wore their scarfs and shawls
was the result of thoughtful study, The
Empress Josephine was famed fnr her
knowledge of the art -of wearlne her
gowns and court trains with dignity and
grace. Past the first bloom of her youth,
she eclipsed all the beauties of Nal
poleon's Court by her bearing on the
day of her-coronation.
The art of putting on our clothes
wisely and well may be acquired, like
anything else, by dint of ratience and
perseverance. We must study what suits
us best and discard the caprices of fash
ion. Be careful not to mix up the Em
pire styles with those of Louis Seize or
1830 periods. It Is often by taking some
thing off. not by adding to our toilet,
that we perceive a marked Improvement.
We must bear in mind that the drcs
Is only a background for the woman
and If the eye Is distracted by a variety
of fallals the wearer is the chief si;(
ferer. The Grecian drapery, the lorR
lines of an Empire gown, are modi !
we may glean ideas from. A hat tilted
to the right angle may prove most he
coming, while the least deviation would
make It appear ridiculous and ugly A
corset, a bodice or belt must be prop
erly put on and adjusted to the natural
waist line before it can be made to lit
satisfactorily.
The way In which we wear a coat,
throwing back or closing, the revers.
makes all the difference, and how much
we will have to study the graceful
methods of wearing those most difficult
garments, the Empire scarf and the
shawls of the 30s, if they are to be re
vived with the threatened crinoline.
The science of detail should claim our
attention, for men often Judge us hy
some trifle we have overlooked. Gloves,
shoes and pretty stockings should, with
dainty underskirts, be worn In proper
order, and with a view to time and
place. Openwork stockings are bad form
in cold weather, and great heat alone
Justifies their being employed for out
door wear. Shoes and gloves also have
their time and place and should by no
means be neglected by the woman wh)
wants to excel in the art of wearing lief
clothe
Velvet With Lacs and Plume:
Ihe veIvet-cnvrArt b!i?tips w!
shops are showing In such w;
artistic variety lend themselves
fully to the efforts of th amnt'
ner. The trimming may be m'i!
tie. Just as one desires, v sn;
favorite combination for a 0,r:
one which will meet with day
lng needs. Is In black velvet, -ti-crown
entirely cove - villa1 t':.e :
fabric, while the velvet is
1 I . . . . .1. Un'"
f iujn over tne onra. Jiac v kj
is shirred to fall In fascades ar.J
disposed around the crown in
rows, the lower ones falling v '
edge of the brim. This latter !:'"'
a little at the left side-, win-v
of fluffy white ostrfbli plumes w
this making for a very lr sy