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For the winter days, when the weather
o often precludes any idea or attempt
at outdoor life, the house sown and the
house toilette become things of much im
portance and sundry fashionings.
"With the resurrection of the teagrown
for Dame Fashion has once more
smiled upon this very dainty compro
mise on dress there has come an era of
daintiness and elaboration to even the
simplest garment Intended for home or
Informal wear. Indeed, a well planned
teagown can be made to do duty for so
many and various occasions that the
gtfrl whose purse strings are not extra
elastic will do well to fashion her one
and indispensable negligee upon this
order.
The best shops demand prices for their
negligees that are well-nigh Impossible
to the girl of moderate means, but a
careful survey of what they have to
offer will give her an abundance of
Ideas wherewith to construct her own.
The accordeon pleated gown is one of
the rery best models for the amateur
to undertake, for under no circum
stances is there even the semblance of
a fit to them, and even the simplest
scheme for trimming shows up well. Of
course, this demands much more mate
rial than the other styles, but. on the
other hand, one does not have to pav
the 1 dressmaker's bill when It is fin
ished. The draped teagown that is adjusted
upon a more or less fitted princesse
lining Is one that demands an artist's
hand to fashion in the present mode,
and while it is eminently becoming to
the women of perfect proportions, the
petite beauty would very much better
leave it alone.
However, the Parislenne. whose tastes
guide the world in this regard, vastly
favors the extremely loose and flowing
designs. The present modes In negligees
point to the line that hangs unbroken
from the shoulder, and when it is made
to show a graceful outward swell from
neck to hem. then its cachet is complete.
And all of this favors the efforts of the
amateur dressmaker, so that a girl who
has even the faintest Idea of sewing
can make ,for herself with an expendi
ture of comparatively little time and
trouble a teagown or negligee for a
fraction ot, what a fashionable cou
turier would demand
In other days those very comfortable,
but hardly stylish, eiderdown garments
were held in esteem for house and bed
room T.ear. Very rarely were they of
n ufT cnt degree of daintiness to be
won. irside the confines of one's bed
roc, rr "ut now we have changed all
iha:. -.. :v.i . r.e Swiss eider garments of to
day art- fashioned after ail of the latest
and u.i.ntiest caprices of fashion, and
make il.eir appearance wherever and
whenever the family congregates.
All of the delicate colorings are to be
had in these, and the mazarin blue, a
seashell pink, primrose yellow and the
vft shades of lavender and lilac are
ma; ij tr: Abundance of fluffs
and :r,i--. trlng these garments
pretty m-.uty. if not entirely, into the
-teagown class.
And the variety of styles that are fash
ioned in these Swiss eiders. One sees
the gracefully loose and flowing garment
that. makes no pretense of even suggest
ing, let alone defining, the figure, and Its
looseness is further emphasized In the
ruches and bouillinnes and pleatings that
go to make up its trimming scheme.
Then there are the semifltted styles,
where the graceful curve of the waist
line is suggested in the sjde seams and a
handsome girdle tied loosely In front
brings the curves of waist and hip Into
view.
The sleeves of her negligee are a pofn'
that receive and deserve a careful con
sideration. "Where the arm Is shapeH
and well rounded the chanoe to display
It to coquettish, advantage In the fash
ionable half sleeve is one not to be neg
lected, and the amount of lace ruffles
and frills that will depend from the half
sleeve Is a matter that must be settled
by the size and shape of the arm. "Where
the forearm is of generous proportions
the sleeve ruffles may be likewise, but
where the arm is slender then one. or at
most two. lace ruflles, not too full,
should suffice. For the arm Is made to
look large or slender, according to Its
surroundings.
The craze for the kimono and for ki
mono effects has spread to the Swiss
eiders, and both the long and the short
garments are possible in this delightful
fabric Some of them are most luxuri
ously lined in silk, plain or padded, and
the sleeves are all of them upon the
pagoda design, with the ends as loose
and flowing as possible. Ribbons, plain,
shirred, bouillinn and encrusted with
lace are used for trimmings, and pleated
gauze ribbons alternate" with plisse chif
fon for sleeve, collar and front trimmings.
The Elaboration of Simplicity.
The negligee arranged with pleatings.
sun or accordeon. according to fancy, is
one that Is almost staple, for its soft
and loose folds dispose themselves ever
to the best and most artistic effect. A
simple model that gives the effect of
elaboration is that pictured a gown that
can" readily be fashioned at home for
considerably less than the beat shops
charge. There is a yoke foundation, and
over this the pleated part Is disposed,
this cut to reach from the shoulder to
almost the ankle. At this point a very
full circular flounce is shirred on to the
straight pulled edge of the accordeon
pleated upper part, and a la-c- entre
deux Is cleverly used to simulate panels
on the pleated part, to define the cut
out V neck and to. trim the flounce. The
sleeve is just the pleated soieIa:ne. with
the pleats close together, and a full
shaped volant answers for a cuft. The
flounce Is finished at the edge with a
litUe shirred band
1 1
The Last
Nowadays the modern belle does not
consider her toilette complete until she
has added one or more of what she is
pleased to term the finishing touches,
and as likely as not ..these come from
her jewel casket.
The foreign fashion of dispensing with
the hat for evening wear is one that
is slowly, but very surely. gaining
ground on this side of the Atlantic
among the fashionables; and when this
f a-hion followed the -, coiffure Ls
naturally made much more elaborate,
and the finishing touches take the form
of some dainty addition to the', head
dress. Orchids aTe In very high favor -at
foreign courts; and they are seen in
velvet in exact facsimile of the natural
blossom. The white orchid in particular
If favored, and either a jeweled aigrett?
Icr a matron or a spray of velvet
maidenhair for the younger belle is the
usual accompaniment. Simple wreaths
of velvet leaves, too, are favored by
the girl with classical features; and
the single rose, camellia or gardenia
artificial, of course, and frosted with
diamond dust finds many adheieuts.
The ribbon bows of many and various
forms that held sway for so long are
now declared passe; and either flowers
or jewels is the only permissible addi
tion to the coiffure that Dame Fashion
approves. For court reception and
presentations ostrich feathers are the
prescribed headdress; but ore rareiy
sees them abroad outside cf the S3crec
precincts of royalty
Collars and riyiers of precious stones
are always in fashion, but there is a
growing fad for dainty little necklaces
of the semi-precious stones, and even
those which have little or no financial
value beyond such as the passing fad
may accord them. So perfect has the Imi
THE MORNING POST: SUNDAY. DECEMBER .li; -1:
Touches to
tation of these last become that it were
hard for any but an expert to tell the
difference between a string of pearls
that cost thousands of dollars, and one
that cost but as many thousand cents.
Jade, amber, coral, and especially the
rare white coral, turquoise, amethyst
and opal are all o them shown along
th3 Rue de la Paix end the Rue de Ri
coli at prices that proclaim them other
than the real. And when the stones are
separated with littl' rondels of cut crys
tal the effect is extremely pretty, in
deed. For the transparent or semi
transparent atones, such as sapphire,
amethyst and such, the jewelers are
using strings of d tal floss dyec to the
exact match jf tht stone, so that there
is not the "oeti; of a white string show
ing through the supposedly precious
colored bead3. And even those of the
fashionable world. " ivho are supposed to
be able to own any amount of real
stones, are indulging in the fad for tne
imitr.tlon, and no distaste or censure on
the part of Mrs. Grunuy and her many
self-elected dept'.ez ensues.
In the lorgnette chains all cf the
dainty patterns from the olden times
are reproduced; and the early Italian
leads all the rest. There are some ex
quisite ones, reproductions of genuine
Benvenute Cellini pieces, that may be
had for a 100-franc bill, these inset with
star sapphir -a and beryl. While the
lorgnettes themselves are shorter, the
chains grow .onger.
In fans there is a delightful diversity.
For the debutante there are charming
little ones, painted after Watteau and
Greuze, and with a little cereal lace for
the edges. These are mounted upon
pearl sticks, and the fad at the moment
calls for the rrreen shades in the pearl.
The fan chain, too, must show this fash
ionable tint; and .h' best examples ha.ng
once around the throat, and then fall
fully as far as the knee. The short girl
loops hers twice around the neck.
The Parisienne dame of social position
has a great liking for the long chain, to
which she attaches all sorts of little
miniature articles in gold Jnd Jewels
ST " I I ' ....... fi
that are exchanged Detween frlencu from
time to time. Almost h.iv ocnulnn 1st
I deemed appropriate for the presentation
meae cosuy little items; ana tne
young girl is Just as assiduous as her
mother or ev?n rrre so in collecting
these fascinating -little ornaments. A
piece of branched coral mounted in gold
it must be Branched is supposed to
ward off the evil eye. little gold shoe
brings good luck. A miniature purse
insures a well-filled one. A little pig
means plenty. And so on through the
list. Madame terms this her dit-donc,
and has a story to relate concerning
each little pendant to her chain.
And speaking of pendants, all of the
new- brooches are fashioned with some
sort of a pendant, a fringe of small
jewels or the like; and they are all pro
vided with a snap ring, so that they
may themselves be worn on a chain In
pendant fashion when caprice dictates.
Description of Above
Models.
ROBES THAT INDICATE REAL,
COMFORT.
For the real comfort of the resting
hour or for bedroom wear there is noth
ing that gives such solid satisfaction as
the garment of Swiss eider. The newer
ones of these are being made up in de
signs far more dainty and elaborate
than heretofore. The material itself Is
nit nearly so bulky as it once used to be
and partakes of the sheerness that is so
desirable in all sorts and classes of ma
terials nowadays. The standing figure
is gowned in a pretty shade of mazarin
blue Swiss eider, with a lighter shade
of satin ribbon piquantly touched up
with black velvet baby ribbon for trim
ming. This gown has the fitted back
and loose front, the neck cut V and
the sailor collar following that line.
The sleeve is-loose at the wrist, the
ribbon trimming carried up half way to
the elbow and dotted with small biack
velvet buttons. The trimming border
on the collpr is carried down the front
in an unbroken line, and a handsome
silk cord lrdle serves to hold the gown
to the figure. The seated dame wears a
dainty shade of shell pink in her pot"-
fort gown, this trimmed with piece silk
and touched up with a line of black.
Fashioned upon loose lines, the garment
hangs in full folds from the shoulders.'
a fancy collar with double shell braid
for edging having a strap trimming that
encloses a vest effect. The sleeve here is
caught into a cuff, which is trimmed en
suite with the collar, r.nd the cord girdle
adjusts the full folds to the lines of the
figure. . :
WHERE LUXURY AND COMFORT
MEET.
This dainty Swiss elder, which shows
a delicate Dresden pattern printed in
1 the familiar Dresden colorings, is lined
witn a touiarcl siik tnat nas a snowball
design printed in dull blues and soft
white. This gown, made by a well
known Parisian house, shows the fond
ness of the Parisienne for the extremely
loose and eraeeful effects. Th hark i
' cut with a large Watteau pleat in the
center, mis iin.-K.eu iu me lining as iar
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the waist, where it meets the. skit :
.earns and adds to the fulneps Th, t
underarm seams are shaped to ti: t.g. t
,, -e, while the fronts are left lor,?e arl i
lowing. The broad collar on-tr the i
L-houlders Is continued in Ion? rs . ,
that cross over the, bust, and :r4
Somewhat of a draped effect. The s.e?v9
i a loose open pagoda pattern and
both- collar and sleeve are rrrpiy f
trimmed Ith full ruffles of a r --top
lace that shows a small and dair.ty ae. i
sign. ' . 1
A COMFORTABLE NEGLIGES.
For house wear In the winter t:m?
there Is a suggestion of br.ightr.e?s as
well as comfort in the brilliant reds
and scarlets that come in the ?w:
eider garments. Such a. one is pictured
in a rich cardinal tint with folds ct
satin in black for trimming, and an
elaborate scheme of applique in the
same somber coloring that shows up n
perfection upon the j- ruddy background.
. The back is semi-fitting, the side s.oiir.s
Adjusting the lines of the garment to
the figure;" and theffronts are left loos?,'
ihe handsome black silk cord girdle
eliminating any suggestion of soppi
ness in the fit. The shouMer is broad,
ihe sailor collar, with its trimming folds,
emphasizing this feature. , The sleeve
follows coat lines, and is. cut in the
usual two pieces, with a fold of satia
at the wrist for a fliiish.
WITH A LACE OVERJACKET
In this Instance a pretty shade ef
daffodil-yellow crepe de chine is accor- "
dion pleated to form the straitrht. loo-e
negligee, the pleated portion extendir? .
to halfway between the knee, wher i:
is Joined with a very full' shirred
flounce, applied with an entre deux for -heading,
and the same lace forminsri
trimming band above the hem. The fea
ture of the pretty robe Is the lace over
jacket, this in a German allover Valen
ciennes There Is a broad sailor co-Hir
edged with a double vola,nt f'the kc.
The jacket has. a full double-box rlf"U
down the center of the back, while t'.e"
fronts are cut. with long ends, that -dope
down sharply from where the Marts
would be were such used." The sleeve
is a full open pagoda pattern. reach:r.2
to just below the bend of the elbow. ar1
flares open to display the plisse sleeve
of yellow crepe de chine beneath. The
back of 'the jacket is caught into ti e
figure with a broad ribbon belt. th:
passing around the' waist and tyir.s
foosely in front, the ends decorated with
frills of lace.. The finishing touch cf.
daintiness Is given in the Jittle "shower '
of chiffon buds that make their appear
ance at the throat. .. .
A PARISIAN CREATION.
From the Malson Agnes comes th's
dainty creation in the guise of a
negligee, but which might judt as we. I
do service as a teagown. The com-,
ponent materials are a reseda grer,
pongee, white chiffon of the dout.s
weave, and a velvet somewhat ;n the
framboise tint that harmonizes'- deli
cately with the green. The- is a bol ro
effect that combines Jacket and over
sleeve to perfection, a thick piping corJ
defining the sleeve portion. There la a
long skirt drapery, a continuation ct
the jacket, applied at the waist, ar.i
a velvet border running from the nocc
to the hem of this drapery gives an
effect of continuity to the design. T!
neck is cut out square in front, and t he
under dress is entirely of white chiff r.,
three graduated bands of pongee ap
pearing on the skirt. The undersjetve
is likewise In chiffon, the puff tuckec
and falling into a velvet band cuff.
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