I Mimn wom;i
' LADY CURZON IN INDIA.
What It Means to Be a Viceroy's Wife
and the Social Demands of Viceroraltj.
Under the title "The Amerin
Girl Who Leads an Empire," Edward
i-ajeLraston writes interestingly in
the Woman's Home Companion of tha
responsibilities undertaken by Lady
"It sometimes devolves upon the
wife of the Viceroy to give audience
- to a native Maharajah alone, when it
is her duty to advance and meet him
on the threshold, and dnly wave him
to a seat, after which her American tact
prompts her to speak of the satisfac
tion it is to see him in her home, to
inquire after the health of her distin
guished guest and his family, and to
p.y him all the usual compliments of
t he season. As the ladies of the rice
royalty generally make it understood
that they can accept no gifts of value
from their subjects tlie exchange of
tokens is confined to photographs.
"Two thousand guests are some
times present at the state balls, when
the viceroyal party is conducted by
an imposing procession to and from
the assembly, which is opened by the
quadrille of 1 lonor at about ten o'clock.
After this Lord and Lady Curzonhold
a reception, and the warm climate
makes these wearing events npon the
host and hostess. That the social ad
ministration of Lady Curzon will not
fall behind those of her predecessors
was evidenced by orders for thirty-five
thousand invitations, programmes and
.cards of various sorts given in Lon
don previous to her departure for In
dia. '
"One of the delicate duties of the
lady of the viceroy! mansion is to
learn the rales of management gov
erning the native servants, for these
have their places as unalterably fixed
by caste as persons in higher stations.
In the bedchamber service there is
not one or two brisk chambermaids to
do np a room as in America but the
: various items in the almost trilling
work are divided among seven or eight
men-servants, and this is the rule
throughout an Indian establishment.
Lady Curzon's body-servant stands or
sleeps outside the door to her room
constantly, and when she goes to
drive alone another attendant rides
in the carriage with her, and at any
time would give his life for her pro
tection." Oar Braye Xnrses.
The daughter of Secretary Long
and three of her fellow students at
Johns Hopkins Medical College spent
their vacations nursing the sick and
wounded. Mrs. Ennis, a colored
woman from the Freedman' Hospital
at Washington, went to Santiago with
the army and has been there ever
since nursing the colored soldiers.
She is one of the humble heroines of
the war and is just as much entitled
to the thanks of Congress and a medal
as Miss Barton or Miss Gould.
And what compensation is there for
Mrs. Ellen Hardin Walworth, of New
York, who not only faced disease and
death in the hospitals of Fort Monroe
aud Montauk Point all summer, but
gave her only daughter, a beautiful
girl of nineteen, who was still more
precious to her than all of Miss
Gould's millions? The National So
ciety of the Daughters of the Revolu
tions will erect a monument to com
memorate the heroism and sacrifice of
Bubina Walworth. Her mother was
one of the three founders of that
order and she was the grandchild of
the late Chancellor Walworth, of New
York. ,-
Who will erect a monument or pro
vide a gold medal in honor of Sisier
Mary Larkin, a sweet nun from Em
mitsburg, Md., who died of yellow
fever, or offer a similar tribute to the
heroism of another brave volunteer
: nurse who died at Chickauiauga? 1
Fifteen hundred contract nurses
- were employed by the medical corps
during the w ar and thero were about
150 volunteers. The exact number is
not known, because their names were
not upon the rolls. Twelve of the
contract nurses sacrificed their lives
and the three volunteers referred to
died in the harness. This is a re
markably small percentage only fif
teen out of a total of 1650 who en
dured the climate, the hardships
and exposure to contagious diseases,
but among the living as well as the
dead are many yet unhonored and
unsung whose services deserve spec
ial recognition. ---Chicago Record.
The Tailor Made Salt.
Some of the smart tailors are mak
ing two coats for each suit and this
the customers who give the orders
consider an economical plan. One cos
tume of Amazon mauv-gray cloth has
a dose-fitting skirt, whish flares out
at about the height of the knees into
a dozen tiny flat flounces which at
first sight might be taken for tucks
The edge of each one is ornamented
by a piping of Vlark violet velvet. The
coats are a directoire and a short
pacque. respectively. The first is cut
with a long-tailed basque, reaching
nearly to the bottom of the skirt, but
giving no indication of its existence
in front. The broad revers are faced
with violet velvet of the samo hue as
that employed upon thekirt; and
this in turn is covered, or nearly so,
bv an application of white ribbon
braids in the shape of true-lovers
knots; the gantlet cuffs and the tight
fitting sleeves are similarly faced and
embroidered. The vest, cut in one
with the coat, is of velvet, braid-em-broidere'd
also and the smart and
dainty cravat is of lace and fur, min
gled with violet velvet. The edge,
pockets and revers of the coat are
piped with violet velvet, the flaps of
the pockets are of velvet, with a single
application of the ribbon braid em-
broidery in the shape of a true-lovers
. knot in the centre. The sacque coat
of cloth, intended foe wear ovef a
blouse, is very short, reaching only to
the waist. It is double-breasted, hai
one of the new funnel-shaped collars
and rather small rev ?rs; collar and
revers are faced with voilet velvet. A
mannish little outside pocket, high np
on the left-hand side, showi peeping
over its edged a pale mauve kerchief,
edged with lace, and a cravat of pur-
pie velvet, shows at the throat when
the hi2h collar is turned down.
The Favorite Flower.
The reign of the rosebud has already
commenced. Small as this crimson
tipped flower is, it successfully dom
inates everynew fabric for spring
wearing. Challies, organdies, Swiss
muslins, - ginghams and silks are
wreathed and- speckled, - spotted and
dotted with coquettish baby roses,
from the romantic moss bud to the
cloRe-sheathed tiny . button rose. All
this, of course, goes only to rove that
1 we are in for a pink spring instead of
a mac, violet or corn-flower blue one.
There is, indeed, matter for a pro
longed and undenially thrilling teacno
talk of comjng modes already spread
iortn on the counters. Abridged in
formation must make it known that
the favorite organic pattern is that of
a fine rose vine in bud, and 'creeping
over a trellis pattern in faint green or-
pale yellow. In dimity and a beauti
ful new starchiest! muslin called Phili-
pino the prim baby rose is placed
formally inside a tiny check square,
or regular narrow bands of green run
in bayadere or perpendicular stripes
between straight narrow trails of roses.
The cloud-like silk muslins that
promise to be the most fashionable
summer ball gowns have full-blown
roses in two shades of pk?k or in yel
low and red on their faint blue, deep
cream or lemon-tinted backgrounds,
and for the Easter bridemaids these
are going to be the most fashionable
possible habits.
Qneenly Even la Prison.
The author of "Foreign Courts
and Foreign Homes" relates a very
pathetio story of Marie Antoinette,
told to her by an old man who had
when a boy, during the days of the
terror, to take some water daily into
the room ofthe unhappy queen. The
. boy did "not know the rank of the
prisoner, as she was spoken of as veuve
Capet, and her daughter as ; Citoyenne
Marie! The first time he was gruffly
told by his uncle to put the pitcher
down. On entering the .room he
looked np and saw a pale, cold, stern
looking woman, with snow white hair,
standing bolt upright, facing the three
men and the boy as they came in.
She started violently when the boy
entered, but said nothing. No doubt
he reminded her of her own unhappy
son separated from her. "Some
childish instinct made the boy rever
ently bow his head to herand if he
had dared he would have doffed hi3
cap and bent his knee. In the guard
room he asked who this Veuve Capet
was, and was told a bad, wicked wom
an, who had been the curse of France,
Constantly he carried the pitcher to
her, and one day, when his uncle was
more drunk than usnn.1, and not no
ticing him, he slipped' three little
primroses, which he had in his hot
little hand, into hers. The queen
took them, hid them in her dress,
and burst into tears."
Spring'Colors In Millinery.
Hints gleaned at the principal mil
linery establishments of Paris place ns
in a position to vouch for the special
importance to be given to shades in
cluded generally under the term
"violet tints," namely, all the violets,
purples, pansy and mauves, the claret
reds and pink leading up to them, and
the crimsons with a tinge of brown.
Equal favor is likely to be meted out
to them and to fern greens, fuchsia
and rose-reds and pinks, pale blues,
bright yellows and poppy color. A
great deal will be done with cream and
other whites with a dash of color in
them. While by no means averse- to
combinations of several colors- and
sometimes even daring contrasts, har
monies in different shades of one color
or two oolors nearly allied to each
other may probably carry the day.
However, in this, as in other matters,
Parisian taste must have time to assert
itself before any hard and fa3t rules
can be laid down, and weeks, if not
months, mast elapse before the fash
ionable world is called upon to decide
the momentous questions of vogue.
The Millinery Trade Review.
A rilncess Post Cards.
The Duchess of York has one of the
most interesting collections of post
cards on record. It has been contri
buted to by the sovereigns of every
land where post cards are used, the
German relatives of Her Royal High
ness supplying by far the greater
number, many of which are very
picturesque and artistic. Post card
albums ru-e for the moment ousting
both stamp and autograph albums
from favor, and havo the advantage
in both respects, inasmuch as they
supply the stamp of various nationali
ties as well as the autograph of some
friend or distinguished individual,
and, furthermore, a daitty bit of
scenery.
Teiutlug Embroideries.
The summer display of open-patterned
embroideries in lattice devices,
in Honiton effects, Venetian point
laces, edgings, and insertions in Hun
garian stitch, etc., is very tempting.
New Fashion' Fancies.
Very high collars will bo worn.
Overskirts will be an Easter fashion.
Belts will be of metal extremely nar
row. Buttons will be extremely decora
tive. .
Ostrich feathers will be a positive
rage.
Coiffures will be more wavy than
ever. """
Ruffled braid .will trim tailor-made
suits. - 1
Stocks will be of plain bands, not
crushed silk.
Coats will be long in the back and
short in front.
Ruffles will be more plentiful and
fanciful than ever.
Golf capes will be made out of vel
vet and worn for calling. .
Skirts will be fastened at the front
right seam, and will hug the hips.
Wraps are cut away in frott from
the waist line and very pointed at the
back. , '
Placket holes will be buttoned with
large conspicuous buttons, instead of
living open.
Shoes will be less pointed and the
mode will be for the heavy morocco
and the calfskin. t
Tight waists will be the fashion and
t'ie cutaway coats will replace the long
'ouble breasted ones.
Hats will come back toward the face
Instead of getting farther away from it
and will be very large.
Waists will button down the back
! md over on the right side in front
a ithout being double breasted. .
W ...i.v.vivivrvivfV?VTirtVMN
'important Charge te s Jctt. ".'
Judge Monks, of ' the Supreme
Court of Indiana, Judge Wright, Su
preme Court of New York, and Judge
Woodward, of Luzerne County, Penn
sylvania, are said to have concurred
in the opinion that grand juries are
legally able to " indict , Road Coramis
doners who fail to keep the roads of
their districts in good and proper
order.
Judge Wright said, in charging a
grand jury at Rome, N. T.. . "Every
Commissioner of Highways is answer
able if he fails to perform his duties
properly, and allwho are guilty of
criminal neglect should be punished.
It is your the grand jury's duty to
inquire into the- conduct of public
officers and- bring bills against any
guilty of criminal neglect. It will be
your duty, gentlemen, wherever the
old labor system prevails, to see that
the Commissioners do their duty faith
fully." . Continuing, he said that the people
of Oswego County are helping to pay
for their good roads in other counties
61 the State which have taken advan
tage of the Higbie-Armstrong law7
Fifty per cent, of the cost of the con-,
struction of a road is paid by State
taxation, thirty-five by the county in
which the road is located, and fifteen
per cent, by the petitioners for the
improvement. He then explained the
Fuller law, which provides that a cer
tain per centage of the cost of high
way improvements in towns adopting
the money system i3 paid by the
State. In this country the residents
of the several road districts work out
their tax.'
Oswego County was paying its share
for the improvements to roads in
other counties of the State that have
adopted the system . named, and . -a
careful inquiry should be made to as
certain if the Highway Ccmmissioners
and Pathmasters of Oswego County
were honestly discharging their duties
here.- Oswego Daily Palladium
Clean Road Metal. -
A principle learned from MacAdam
was that "broken stone, pressed and
compacted, would cohere together and,
by the mutual friction of its parts,
bear and distribute heavy pressures
as well as if it actually were the smooth
and Bolid slab it seems." But when
earth is mixed with the stone the fric
tion is reduced by nearly one-half, the
material is less compact and firm and
is much less capable of bearing heavy
loads.' Moisture affects the volume of
clay. Roads in which it is used rut
badly in wet weather, even though
they are very thick, while thinner
roads in which it is not used, but in
which the 6tones are pressed together
by their own angles through adequate
rolling, remain firm and smooth. Road
metal ehould be clean, and free from
clay. The use of clay is attractive,
because, with it, light rolling seems
to give a good smooth surface, but
this is only temporary and is unsatis
factory and expensive in the end.
L. A. W. Bulletin.
A Good Example.
An enterprising paper in an Illinois
city offers to donate $1000 to the cause
of road improvement "in order to se
cure hard roads for the benefit oi the
farmers" of the county and for the
city5 in which it is published. The
sum of $100 will be given on the com
pletion of one mile of gravel road on
each of ten roads, on the following
terms: .
"This amount of $100 shall be due
and payable to the Commissioners of
Highways of,. the township in which
said one mile of road is located for the
particular purposo above mentioned
when one mile has been completed
from the city limits of the city on
each road respectively. The one mile
on each road must be built in a sub
stantial manner, of good material,
under the supervision of competent
engineers, and must be completed
within three years from January 1,
1899, and under specifications agreed
on by three practical hard road au
thorities." Improving New Jersey Highways.
The annual report of the Commis
sioner of Public Roads in New Jersey
shows a gratifying continuance of the
good work of improving - the high
ways. Since the passage of the State
aid law there have been built 325
miles of road at a cost of 565,826.
The economy to the farmer in hauling
products to railway or market is clear
ly demonstrated, and the profit to the
community at large of this investmei t
of public money may bo studied to ad
vantage by the Legislatures of other
States. The report directs especial
attention to the experiment that is to
be made of laying steel roads for heavy
traffic, as suggested by Secretary Wil
son, of the Department of Agriculture.
The progress of New Jersey in road
building has earned in particular the
approval and appreciation of bicyclists,
who can now wheel with comfort from
New York to Philadelphia.
Tbe Merciless Mail
OnA nf onr nhancfts. nnhliahttd in
fndiana, &ajs, in a recent issue:
"While conveying the remains of the
late Samuel Percifield to Nashville for
interment, tho wagon containing the
remains became stuck in the mud, on
Dowell Hill, and was badlv demol
ished in an attempt to extricate it."
If this .n as the condition of the
road on "the hill," what must it have
been in the "holler?" L. A. W. Bul
letin. The Crusade In Brief.
Use clean road material.
V Roads that "break up" aro bad
roads.
Undertake" road
improvement sys
tematically. Appoint a supervisor who will have
charge of all the road work.
Make road improvements ia such a
way that they will be permanent.
' .Classify roads according to the na
ture and extent of the traffic over
them.
Do not scatter money ia makin
trifling repairs on temporary struc"
tnres.
Make road beats live miles in
length; choose the best men as path
masters, and keep them in office. "
Roads, culverts and bridges will al
ways be required; their construction
in the most durable manner is most
economical. - -
1 , I
C fr tTv S " f
j Ly w7 S" w''
O THE REALM
-. "h KS. -N
tzty vcy Kiy--- vsV
Nkw Yobk Crrr (Special). The
new shirt waists are not so very differ
ent from those of last year after all.
They are- made of deeper blues, pinks
and lavenders; and broad stripes have
taken the place of the 'hair-line effects
of last year." The inch-wide stripe ia
POPULAB TYPE OP
SHIBT WAIST.
seen, but much smarter are the half
inch wide stripes of color alternating,
with hair-line stripes of color dividing
an inch-wide stripe of white. Fine,
firm Madras is the best material for
well-made waists, but silk and linen,
muslin and gingham, are used. The
backs of most of the new shirt waists
are almost devoid of fulness, and some
dispense with the becoming yoke,pop-
ular for so many seasons. In design
there is little change from last' year.
Perpendicular tucks or piping that
stand out instead of lying flat on
either side of the front are pretty for
slim figures, and more suitable to
stout wearers than are the broad cross-
m 1 II . . .
wise tucKs wnicn iney wore so per
sistently last summer. A rather novel
shirt has a strip of white muslin down
the front in which buttons and bntton-
holes are placed. On either side of
this strip and placed about their own
width apart are groups of tucks edged
with white muslin. The work is so
daintily done that it is not at all
clumsy, . and the effect of the white
muslin stripes on the rose or blue or
green of the shirt is cool and sum
mery. Shirt waist sleeves have not
suffered in the general reduction.
They are just about the size now that
they were then when these cool bod-
POINTED BASQUE WITH
ices first took the world of women by
storm.
A Stylish Combination.
i A stylish combination of silk pop
lin, velvet and liberty satin is illus
trated in the large engraving, by May
Manton, in three shades of violet.
The -pattern provides for extra un-der-arm
gores which are especially ad
vantageous in diminishing the propor
tions of a too generous figure. The
full vest portions are arranged upon
lining fronts that have double bust
darts and close invisiblyin the centre.
The fronts are fitted by deep single
bust darts and are reversed -at the
front edge to form pointed- lapels,
widest at the shoulder and gradually
tapering toward the lower edge.
The backs are trimly adjusted by
the usual number of seams, over
which a seamless back fits smoothly
across the shoulders with the fulness
at the lower edge laid in overlapping
plaits that are firmly tacked down be
low the waist line. The neck is fin
ished with a close standing collar
The sleeves, of fashionable propor
tions, are two-seamed, the fulness at
the top being arranged in gathers over
fitted linings, while the wrists and
lower edge of basque are finished with
bands of velvet.
The mode is adapted to silk or wool
fairies. The vest can be fashioned in
white or colored eatin overlaid with
mousseline, lace, fpangled or jetted
gauze. Checked and figured taffetas
make pretty vests of this description,
while the garniture is invariably rib
bon, galoon, braided or jetted passe
menterie. "
To make this basque for a lady of
medium size will require one. and
three-fourth yards of material forty
four inches wide.
: A Fad In the Silk Skirt.
The latest fad for trimming silk
skirts is that of very deep ' accordion
plaited rnffles, which are over a half
yard deep. They are pinked on ( the
edge, and are caught up with festoons
of very "bright ribbons, which make
them very pretty, indeed. If the
skirt is faced with some material more
substantial than silk it will wear for a
long time, ; and the ruffles will be
stronger for being looped np.
Blest Expensive of All.
The most expensi ve of all waists are .
those of uncut velvet made with a j
mv narrow vest of lace, and be-1
low the yoke a trimming on the velvet j
..m.hm nf different colors and n !
Ul JIUlO"V- - - .
border ' ribbon. Tuese waists have
smill sleeves, with pointed cuffs, com
rd.teW covered with railettes and the
ribbon trimming. , Few black silk or j
V S -"-N S
O' nLv
OF FASHION.
PX C
njs v
satin waists are worn except by peo
ple who are in mourning. . When they
are worn they must always have a
bright tie or some lace at the throat.
The satin ones look particularly well
when they have rows of the : cording
put on the bias. The cording seems
to relieve the dead black: of the satin.
A heavy quality of black satin should
never be used; it ia too stiff and un
yielding the liberty satin is a good
material for anything of this sort.
Popalar Tinted Foulards. -
The materials that are specially
popular for the warmer days of the
season are delicately tinted and pat
terned foulards, various kinds of soft
catton goods, very fine cashmeres and
dresses entirely formed of lace to be
worn over foundations of either black
or white. ilack lace is used over
black silk and white lace over white.
Few combinations of color are per-,
mitted.
The Posy Hat in Vocne.
- The posy hat is still with us. The
hat that is a mass of flowers is to con
tinue in favor, unless all signs fail,
and the woman who has been wearing
a flower hat can take it to green fields
and pastures new. A hat that is a
mass of big purple pansies is very be
coming and if it is lightened by a red,
red rose at the top nothing could be
prettier.
BasQacs Are Revived. "
-Basques are coming in again, and
many new blouses are made with this
part to; be worn outside. Basques of
coats are still quite short, but will be
longer as the spiing advances. Short
basques, scolloped out and finished
with rows of stitching, are smart and
effective for walking jackets.
Harmony In Jewel Colors.
A woman who has many pretty
jewels says that she does "not care lor
them for themselves; but only as they
harmonize with tn color tones of her
eostumes. She varies them with her
different frock's with a pretty effect.
Skirt Materials SXach Used. . .
Accordion-plaited materials are still
in very gr-at favor in the making of
skirts, waists and - overdresses or
gowns designed for both women and
children.
BEYERS AND FULL VEST.
Military Cycling; Costume-.
Military cycling gowns are one of
the fancies in Paris. The skirt and
coat are of dark blue cloth, trimmed
with narrow gold braid. The jacket
has a piping and facing of red, and the
whole is crowned by a dashing mili
tary cap.
A Favored Handkerchief.
Cream and brown linen handker
chiefs, edged with cream lace and in
some , instances hemstitched with
bright red, are novel and very much
in favor. . --
Short Shoulder Capes. ,
The specialty of this season's models
will apparently be the use of short
shoulder capes, coming from the col
lar and standing out slightly over the
shoulders. Some times only one little
cape may be used, or there may be
three or four. These are lined with
silk and piped to match, while they
may be either plain, embroidered or
overlaid with delicate tracery of bead
work. A single shoulder cape of
rather coarse lace will also be much in
vogue. Sleeves still continue to be
like the skirts, skin-tight aod very
long. As to coats for early spring
wear these may either be short, with
very abbreviated basques cut away in
curving outlines over the hips, or else
three-quarter length, with the basque
sloping from the front to the back.
Lace is to be very much worn, espe
cially in conjunction with any soft
light cloth. The favorite form of
skirts has no seam in the back and
CAPE rCX A LADY.
prows gradually more flowing in out
line from just above the knees to the
feet. A very scant flounce of carving
shape is usd on some of tho new
dresses, while others from the knees
downward, are a mass of tiny and very
fall frills.
"-(VlW. vlVi W,
NEWS AND NOTES U
FOR WOMEN. U
o
' .- V The French Crpponi. '
The expensive silk-finished French
crepons which are tentatively dis
played show wholly novel and stylish
arrangements of their soft wavy sur
faces. - . . - .
Black For the Xenten Season.
: For the Lenten season there will be
a demand for both the plain aud fancy
materials in black, and these are
shown in very many different weaves
either in cloth, varied light wools,
and in silk and wool melanerea. Snm
of the new attractive tatternn r in
fine matelasse effects., while others
have diagonal stripes in glossy chenille
or roughly woven sillr. These - goods
are made into very graceful pnncesse
1 . m.
poionaises, opening with curving fronts
over an underskirt of corded silk,
trimmed with silk straps and three
small undulating frills..; The sleeves
are" very snug, and the cuffs, tiny
shoulder puffs and bodice trimmings
are of the black silk, which is prefer
abljr of the Muscovite weave, with a
rich gloss, but finished with but little
"dressing," the fabriQ being almost as i
pliant as surah. r - - .
- The Favorite Spring Hat.
Early . in the winter the hat that
turned up in front justly received its
due of favoritism and flattery. . Its
successor in the spring will be an airy
thing of silk,musliu or tulle set on the
Bide of the'; head, and with a wide
spangled brim turned up on all sides
equally. Already, we see some lucky
women, who have their headgear, all
hot from Paris, wearing these delicate,
glittering gowns, but meantime many
sensible souls content - themselves
with pretty tulle trifles they can really
fashion with their own. hands. These
are very popular for theatre wear, and
are made first of a ring of hat wire
about the circumference of a saucer.
Wound tightly around this is black
eatin or white satin ribbon and then
loosely goes a winding of tulle. The
tulle ring just encircles the top of the
head and at some point in its circum
ference, usually just in front, a tuft of
silver wheat, with two loops of tulle,
is fastened. This simple ornament
passes for a bonnet and is a becoming
coronet and a showy one on any head.
Chicago Becord. ; '
Economy in Bridal Presents.
''It is scarcely the right thing," said
a young bride, "to look; a gift horse
in the month, and yet it's hard not to
speak one's mind on a matter of this
kind. It does seem to me that people
might think "a while before baying
wedding presents; I am sure if they,
had done so I wobld never have re
ceived seven cruet , stands. What in
the world ami to do with them all? I
can only use one at a time, or at the
most two. Now, what is to become of
the other five?. It's just too perplex
ing for anything. If I could only
show them, it wouldn't be so bad; but
I can't even do that." , ;
"Dear .me, I don't know why you
should worry over Buch a little thing
as that," observed her sister, who had
been married nine years. "Those
extra cruet stands will come in handy
by and by.. Select the one you want
to keep; and then put the others care
fully away. Whenever any of your
friends marry K let a cruet stand be
your gift . It'll save you lots of money.
When I was married I' received four
fish knives among my presents. I was
cross until some one gave me the hint
that I have just given you, and then I
was happy. It wasn't long before I
had made good use of three of the fish
knives. "
Woman's Progress Under Victoria.
Whereas the census taken six years
before the Queen came to the throne
contained no occupations for women
except domestic service, there were at
the date of the last census 61,000
women dressmakers, 70,000 employed
in public houses, 4500 in printing
establishments, and 4721 in ' mines 1
Even the Poatoffice, hedged about with
redtapeism as it is, has , nearly 30,000
women as clerks, telegraphists, sort
ers, etc., and there are included in
these figures no fewer than 100 head
postmistresses and 5250 sub-postmistresses.
Where there was one woman
clerk in 1871, there are now four; and
to take two industries only there
are now 121 women per 100 men in
the tobacco industry, as against forty
two per 100 in 1871; while in hemp
and jute the women workers have in
creased from sixty-seven per 100 men
to 125 per 100.
There are throughout the kingdom
nearly 130,000 women engaged in
teaching, almost three times the num
ber of men; and 200 women have
worked their way into government de
partments as typists. It is significant
of the part women now play in our
commercial life that there were in a
recent year 758 women bankrupts,
whose aggregate liabilities amounted
to $1,500,000. The Young Woman.
Valvar to Use a Handkerchief.
Until the reign of the Empress Jo
sephine a handerchief was thought in
France so shocking an object that a
lady would never have dared 'to use it
before any .one. The word even was
carefully avoided in refined conversa
tion. An actor who would have used
a handkerchief on the stage, even in
the most tearful moments of the play,
would have been unmercifully hissed;
and it was only in the beginning of
the present century that a celebrated
actress. Mile. Duchesnois, dared to
appear with a handkerchief in her
hand. Having to speak of this hand
kerchief in her 'course of the piece,
she never could summon enough cour
age to call it by its true name, but re
ferred to it as "a light tissue." '
A few years later a translation of
one of Shakespeare's playe, by Alfred
de Vigny, having been acted, the word
handkerchief was used for the first
time on tbe stage, amid cries of indig
nation from every part of the house.
It is doubtful if even to-day French
ladies would carry handkerchiefs if
the wife of Napoleon L had not given
the signal for adopting them.
The Empress Josephine, although
really lovely, had bad teeth. To con
eeal them she was in the habit of
carrying small handkerchiefs, adorned
with costly laces, which she constant
ly raieed grscefally to her lips. O
course, all tha ladies of the eonrt fol
lowed her example, and handkerchief
c t-2 feniini-e toilet. vTc--'s LLc
The New Tvimiuins.
Ilcst of tbe trimming favorite cf
titn.iaa and winter are repeated for
ornamenting spring materials. Blacky
mohair scrolls with a feather edse will'
be freely used, owing to the popular
price at which they caube sold.
Black silk trimmiuga ia scroll de
signs will be next in favor. Garnitures
in both worsted and silk will be espec
ially desirable for ornamenting waist3
and skirts. Ail of the foregoing are
ia weights appropriate for spring na.
teriais.
Black and colored silk applique
trimmings bn chiffon grounds are tha
favorites for spring and summer eilks
and dress goods that are sheer in tex
ture. . .
One of the pronounced novelties in
trimmings will be Persian bands for
trimming plain silks and plain wocl
veilings, and in the : elaborata
eostumes they wiHTTe employed for
supplying - narrow flounces. Narrow
widths to match are also , in vogue for
sleeve' ornamentation, and add mnch
to the beauty of materials of one
color. . ' - - - . '
i Narrow shirred ribbons have lost
none of their popularity, and will be
appropriate for embellishing summer
silks and sheer woolen materials.
White embroideries ' may be set
down as certain to meet with universal
favor for trimming both white and col
ored wash " materials. -Insertion will
also be freely employed on both white
and colored wash fabrics.
Fashion has given a high position to
laces, and if present indications may
be ; relied on - as reflecting coming
events in the fashionable world laces
will be used in profusion. Both black
and white will be associated for trim
ming, as this : combination ia an
nounced as a leading one for the com- '
ing season and very free use will also
be made of black velvet ribbons for
trimmings. American Queen.
v ' . ' ;Gossip.
The Princesses Victoria and Maud
are the most enthusiastio cyclists in
the British royal family. ...
Mrs. Alice Parker Lesser, attorney
at law of 'Boston, Mass., has been ad
mitted by Judge Putnam to practice
in the United States DiskicrJCitiil
Appeals. , '
Miss Ethel Wyn Eaton, daughter of
President E. D. Eaton, of Beloit Col
lege, Wisconsin, has gone to Spain,
where she will teach in a school for
Spanish girls.
Mrs. Helen L. Grehfell, who was
chosen State Superintendent of Publio
Instruction of Colorado recently, has
given much satisfaction to her con
stituents thus far. '. . v
Club women of Illinois are up An
arms over the use of the female form
on paper for advertising purposes, and
have presented to the Legislature a
bill to put a stop to it. -. V
-Mile. Thilikeza, a young woman of
Polish origin, recently passed a bril
liant examination before the Paris Fao- .
ulty of Medicine. The subject of her
thesis' was the "Condemnation ol the
Corset." - , ,. , . : .
.The last line of work to be taken up
by a well-known society woman in New
York City forced to earn her own live
lihood is the making of paper lamp
shades and other articles of a similar
character. .
.' ' " - " '-
Constantin Christomanos, the au
thor, who was reader to the murdered
Empress of Austria, has published a
book of reminiscences of his life at the
court, much of which is biographical
of the Empress. - , .
The girls of Smith - College have
adopted a missionary of their own,
whom they are pledged to support.
The one selected by them is Dr.1
Myers, a graduate of Vassar, who goes
to China next fall on a salary of $600.
Chicago has a woman watchmaker,
Miss Mamie Frey. She works at a
watchmaker's bench and lathe in a big
jewelry shop from morning until night,
and her highest ambition is to become
one of the best watchmakers in the '
business. ,
Gleanlnes From the Shops. : '
Japanese silk shawls edged with
fringe for summer wear.
Spring lines of ribbon showing pom
padour designs and fringed edges.
Silk grenadines with satin ' stri es
and brightly colored floral sprays ' be
tween. -
Mouselines and chiffons having their
patterns wrought in narrow fringed
ribbons.
Silk organdies in all colors showing
fine white satin stripes with small
flower designs between.
White silk petticoats decorated with
three flounces showing appliques of
black lace in waved patterns. g
Light pink, bine, yellow and green
organdies with large black polka dots .
over the surface closely spaced. ' -
Spring lines of ribbons with silk
embroidered or printed designs of
small and larger floral sprays in sash
widths. ' : ;"'
Allover embroideries of white che
nille cord and black heavy guipure
with rhinestones interspersed through'
out the pattern. Dry Goods Econo
mist. ' ' : - .-.
Secret of the Telephone Discovery.
In a recent lecture Professor Alex- "
ander Graham Bell is reported to
have explained how he came to invent .
the telephone as follows: .
"My father invented a symbol by
which deaf mutes could converse, aud
finally I indented an apparatus by
which the vibration of speech could
be seen, and it turned out to be a .
telephone. It occurred to me to make
a machine that would enable one to
bear vibrations. I went to an aurist,
and he advised me to take the human
ear as a model. He supplied me with
a dead man's ear, aud with his ear I
experimented and upon applying the -apparatus
I found that the dead man's
ear wiote down the vibrations.
- "I arrived at the conclusion that if
I could make iron vibrate on r a dead
man's ear, I could make an instru
ment more delicate which would cause
those vibrations to be heard and uu
derstoood. I thought if T placed a
delicate piece of steel over an electric
.magnet I could get a vibration, and
thus the telephone was completed.
The telephone arose from ray at
tempts to teach the deaf to speak. It ,
arose from my knowledge, not of elec
tricity, but as a teacher of tbe deaf.
, Had I been an electrician I would not
I hr attempted it.' Electrical V.'orl A,