SUNDAY, MARCH 17, 1918. STRIKINGLY GOOD LINES ARE SEEN IN at 4 v r a m By AMY E. HOGEBOOM. ACK of imagination is probably the "reason we see so many "women wear ing badly chosen clothes clothes which are neither jnusual in themselves nor suited to the rearer's needs or individual type. These it c - tromen merely see something which looks .veil on some one eke and their powers r imagination do not carry them a bit leyc rond or to the point where they might ealize just how they are going to look j.W the- same thing. 4. ' Blindly they grasp at any new feature to the season's range of styles, frequently electing the one feature that is sure to !W done to death before the 6eason is iver, and then wonder why their clothes to not look as well on them as other jjromen's clothes look. They do not stop consider that not every one is built in rhe same form or has the same coloring, ot( to go into details of even greater Jissimilarity in the personality, i A little time can be well spent in this season presents direction, and every Iff nongh variety in style for one to be able t "" -fl J2 1 li & 1 mm - m. jjame tune De ultra iasnionaDie it it is deemed necessary to be so. Fashion titers and makers of the modes have" a fabit of emphasizing one thing or an ther whatever may be uppermost just t that particular moment and so it is yrell not to be too much influenced by the tyle for the moment and to remember liat styles are constantly changing. Orig inality or exclusiveness in another phase, nd the right thing on the right woman, Ma 'So much further toward making at froman appear well dressed than the Slvnu 4 - .. ... ... spmiy 10 pxcx out tne tning which is going to be the most worn or th lofi AM WWV fjung. 8? w 4m K.vifl-.y iMar .V. The woman who dresses well for even- jig affairs sometimes does not appear Is wcU 511 bcr street clothes because she UMlfflM n V. A rr A. . 7 1 t . . lwuiAica ii eT taste nere wnen gne freely exercises it in regard to danc W and dinner frocks. She is partially ight hete, because street clothes do de jand a certain amount of conservatism, put just here is where she could make her Ideas more subtly felt. P The Barisienne, who supposedly follow! re last word of fashion, as a matter of act builds this reputationjjy seldom be . iff so mnch in ti r " "wo Liiac sne looks ve every one else ; so she manages to look sontimially fresh and smart because f , , bis very tendency to irregularity as re- ' i arcs style, t There is seldom or BeT a time w a tie arbiters of fashioa agrw as to fcx-yx-iK-:.x- what shall or shall not be worn, and prob-1 ably most of them do not expect the de signs which they put forth will be the only accepted ones. For instance, while the majority of coat suits seen here will haVe short jackets there is no reason why every one should follow this ruling, for Parisiennes are wearing yvite long coats with afternoon frocks, ait, carried out in heavy silk this would not be too warm for our summer season. Indeed, new coats and jackets are al ready breaking away from the first dicta torial word that they must be short and have several new feAtnroa aiVi -v.o J - j l-u i. Lxidii a little more length. Some of them ignore the much favored waistcoat and others show a loose capelike back with various capelike arrangements of sleeves. Others limit their eccentricities to sleeves and Above in the Centre Sharp contrasts are father the rule in sports clothes or at least brilliant colors, the idea of contrast being rather in the lead. In the cos tume shown above one might say that both ideas have been made use of, for the coat is of bright red wool velour and the skirt is white flannel, very simple in cut. The coat is on excellent lines for sports, as the sleeves are loose and roomy at the armhole, which for sports is an absolute necessity. The front of the jacket to ouuricr man ine oacic ana sia.es ana cut in the waistcoat manner, with turned up pieces of the white flannel simulating pockets, which are held with buttons. The shawl collar and very wide cuffs are of the flannel also, with a piping on the tie girdle. From Annette. Photo by Underwood & Ujiderwood. Above at th.r T tft A for pither morning or afternoon wear is this new long waisted one, shown in the illustration. Nnw hhie inffotn rc ble voile. The treatment of this frock is very unusual in its severely simple lines, fuel c jijin,& jiuin tut: 'jLiitzt aiut-. s stuping snouiuer line is obtained by the very high rolling collar, which is becoming to the average woman, but the long waist line is rather more difficult to wear a deridedlv onnrf mnJtJ for a tall, slim figure. Rather close sleeves are finished at the wrists by bands of the blue taffeta. From Best & Co. Photo by Joel Feder. Above at the Right Strikingly simple is the sports costume here, which is a combination of black velveteen and white satin, and is worn with a very smart Sfmi pht lint c-rr n f hi nr-b- nnsf Mihin fhoflr iunrt lThs rn : u possible cut and has a plain flat hU which crosses the smart vest of white satin. The hat which is shoivn is a slightly mushroom shape of black split straw faced with white; wide white ribbon forms the hat band. Costume from Best & Co. Photo by Joel Feder, Below and at the Left For the youthful and for the slender figure the Eton suU will surely hold its place. It has for us at the present time the added value of using very little wool and at the same time being quite the smartest line on the right young woman. Navy blue tricotine was used for this model, which is trimmed by braid and buttons in a strikingly simple manner around the bottom of the jacket. The very jaunty little vest is of black satin, button trimmed also. A black satin girdle of generous proportions bridges the gap between "jacket and skirt. The latter has an unusual tunic, which is shorter at the sides, and a straight panel a little longer at the front and back. On the jacket are double lapels; one set is on the jacket and the other belongs to the vest, which is piped with white Suit from Best & Co. Photo by Joel Feder. At the Lower Right The smart suit which is illustrated looks quite as much like a dress as it does like a suit, probably because the under blouse it dpsianeri, especially to be worn with the suit. Again the' sash is an intrinsic part of the i T"" I J. ' I T . - c .. . ' ' tujiume. i lie niuieriui is nuvy oiue iricoiine, ana navy oiue satin is used for the under blouse and vest instead of the usual black, which gives the suit a little more distinction. A short tunic is longer at the front, cut with points, and the wide girdle is finished with fringe. A hat, slightly poke bonnet in shape, has a trim- nung uj jivwers una jucing uj puiK suk, comoinea wun trie foundation Of blue one even showed a puff of satin just below the elbow. Silk duvetyn is one of the newer ma terials. It is smartly combined with wool jersey in some of the new coats, which have straight box backs and belted fronts Other smart models show the use of satin combined with tricotine. On these suits also braid trimming, slashes and buttons play a large part The longer coats are, frequently slashed from the hem, which is at the knee length, to the waistline, and the shorter jackets frequently show the use of pleats. Skirts worn with these suits are shown with both tunic and panels, if not with slashes at the sides. In afternoon frocks, and in coats also, the low waistline is making a bit more impression, and wide girdles are used to carry out this idea, -r- MMaanMMH NEW MODES ' J si : s; V 1 4 1