J
Page SIXTEEN
THE PILOT—Southern PinM;_Norlh^Car^i^
Scottish, English Scenes, People
Described In Letter By Mrs. Ives
.... . _ T
lUghlands, London.
Oxford, Greenwich
Visited By Party
Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Ives of
Southern Pines have been
traveling in Europe and Brit
ain, much of the time writh
Adlai E. Stevenson, 1952
Democratic Presidential can
didate and brother of Mrs.
Ives, and his party. In this
final letter of a series written
about the trip to The Pilot,
Mrs. Ives tells of people and
places in Scotland and Eng
land.
Bowland*
Selkirkshire
Scotland
"‘O Caledonia! stern and wild!
Meet nurse for a poetic child
Land of brown heath and shaggy
wood,
Land of the mountains and the
flood.
Land of my sires!”
Indeed, here we are on ancient
Ettrick forest’s very door, land of
the ruined abbeys, by Tweed and
Yarrow and close by Cloverfords.
If the stirring stories, ballads and
after our first sightseeing tour.
We sat on stools at the counter
feeding on smoked Scotch salmon,
lentil soup, beer and cheese. Next
us were a lot of R. O. T. C. Amer
ican Navy lads on a summer
cruise. Every one of them had
ice cream for dessert.
We have visited the great ab
beys, driven along the Clyde from
rich farming land to great centers
of industry and smoke, into the
Highlands along Loch Lomond,
seen the vast view of hill and
dale from Stirling Castle, listen-
London's Scars
Oh, these wonderful island peo
ple! I’ve the deepest admiration
for them, y The rigors of climate,
invader, inquisition have made of
them a steadfast, solid loyal
breed. The scars that hurt you to
behold on the face of London re
call every few minutes as you
drive around that long night after
S'to'thTta'es ofdaSe^ds, and when the talk turns to the war
have seen, across the changing j years
that Mrs. Aldrich, wife of our Am
bassador, couldn’t get through the
crush (she came a bit late) into
the room where Adlai was speak-
ing! ^
We saw the Queen at the Car
den Party at Buckingham Palace
only at a distance: there were
about 7,000 guests on that beau
tiful lawn, two bands playing, and
tents, a good city block long, serv
ing an excellent tea and straw
berries and cream! Every man
not in uniform was in topper
(grey ones seem most popular)
and cut-away unless he wore the
drive around tnat long nigiu axici anu i-av
nieht for years the skies were the dress of his country such as Mos^
Se ^f battle-the babies and hems and Indians. However two
the old heard the shriek of exceptions were with us mm -
and I for one can only feel speech- ly—John Fell ajid Bill Bla r w
less when I drive in London, \ braved the situation in their g y
suits! And to be honest we sight
ed a few other isolated business
suits! After having worried my
self into a jitter as to which dress
would suit the ever-changing
skies, I settled on navy blue. Once
at the party, I studied the other
women and I knew anything
goes! Big hats, tiny hats, long
skirts, full skirts or short ones
and tight, furs arid no furs, tailor
ed dress or lacey ones, on the
shoulder, off the shoulder, young
or old it didn’t matter! In the
Royal Enclosure some people
were presented and then Adlai
had a talk with the Queen, the
Duke, Princess Margaret etc. The
American Ambassador and Mrs
Aldrich took other *
friends in too.
Talking With Queen
The next time we saw the
Queen was at Goodwood races and
suddenly my host gave me his
binoculars. I looked at Adlai sit
ting with Her Majesty having a
lovely time. I was a bit worried
as he had on a wrinkled brown
suit and a frayed brown and
white striped shirt I had hoped
and expected him to stop wear
ing! John Fell and Bill Atwood
went over to try and get a pic
ture but found them gone. An
equerry asked “Are you Governor
Stevenson’s son?” And when John
Fell said yes and that he hoped
to get a picture, he was invited
ana mrs iwith Bill in to tea and allowed
Imerican later to get his photos! I thought
' it was .wonderfully kind. The
FRIDAY. AUGUST 14. 1953
Queen had a horse, the favourite,
in the first race and I noticed that
there was no enthusiasm voiced
wehn another horse won. She is
a great racing fan while the Duke
much prefers polo.
In the “Sunday Times” there
was an excellent photo of Adlai
and a wonderful “piece,” of which
I shall give the final paragraph:
“He has been travelling as he
says, to educate himself. But most
of us who have seen him on his
tour feel that his real accomplish
ment has been to educate the
world about the United States, an
unconscious mirror of the best in
that great country, than which
there is nothing better to be
found.”
sky, the great trees, running
streams and rolling hills. At eve
ning, beside a welcome fire, Allan
reads Burns or Marmion aloud,
which recalls to me Grandfather
Davis doing the same to us as
children.
Where Scott Lived
We called on Lady Mary Abel-
Smith in the house where Scott
lived for 10 years and wrote
Marmion—“Breathes there a man
with soul so dead.
Our cousins have been so good
to us. Lady Bailey lives in Chel
sea in an early 18th century house
looking into the Thanies—touch
ing eaves with the house of Car
xaiTUW aiiu J mg eavco „
If the stirring stories, ballads and Whistler and others ot
songs of Sir Walter Scott meant Around the corner in an
much to me once, their meaning uttle house is Patricia, beauty of All Souls
is doubly so now and I shall read daughter, who is Mrs. Tom Queen
with sheer delight the Borderland Trenchard. Her two rosy, radiant
tales. tots were off in the “pram’ m the
We are in the “heart of the rain as we rushed for shelter. ^
matter”—actually a 15th century One fine afternoon we spent
house. Its original walls stand 18 driving to gailey
feet thick in parts. This is Bow- hate Admiral Sir Sidney Bailey
land the hunting lodge of the had been President of the Royal
Catholic Bishop David Heaton, Naval College. The Christopher
one of the last Scottish Archbish- magnificent one. the ^bristopne
ops before the Reformation who Wren buildings on the edge ot tne
was stabbed to death by conspira- Thames were built the sue or
tors at the Castle of St. Andrews, earlier ones—in fact ^nry vui s
Cats and dogs are restless in the Laughters, the Good Queen Bes
drawing room here. What ghost, Lnd Bloody Mary, w^e born in
S La of mysterious deeds one replaced by. Wren The
clings to these walls? Personally, Queen’s House, where Sir Waltei
mvLly disturbance was the sad Raleigh threw down bis coat for
hoot olan owl in the night. Or Ris Queen to step upon rather tha
was it the result of the hot black into the mud m ^be roadw^ a
currant pie followed by the mel- Uhe returned frprri ^ L ’
low port? How delicious—that with its beautiful staucase, wa
itraditLal port, handed clock- Luch copied by ^be ’^udders i
wise round the table! Colonial America. In fact tne
woods, the turns of the stream build fine houses
and gay splash of magenta fire Maryland, etc
weed® The heather, more soft in Up on the hiU stands *e -
hue is to be seen and lofty tow- Uervatory and L
ers framed between tall beech ter houses treasures from tbe sti
trees The drive up to this ancient Ling naval history of this g^lla
house TstoneanLurret is vivid people. At the Observatory, an
noube L/x oi.vxx'- ~
with giant rhododendrons, beech,
holly, box and even azalea. Down
in the walled garden the big
ripening raspberries are covered
with a net to keep the wood-dove
out; under glass cloches figs and
grapes are ripening. The flowers
grow to great size here as in Eng
land. It’s been a wet and cold sea
son and much grain is down. Our
host, Allan Ramsay, a young man
of 26, is farming this 5,000-acre
estate recently left him by his
father.
He took us to a famous Old
“pub” in Edinburgh for lunch
Down in Oxford I think I found
the greatest peace and sense of
the continuity of the things of the
mind and spirit. We were the
guests of Dr. Arthur Goodhart,
President of University College.
He is an American citizen, a K. B.
C., and the only foreigner to be
president of a college at Oxford.
We slept in the Master’s lodging
on Logic Lane, our diamond-
paned windows looking into a
courtyard of green velvet grass,
gay with flowers, and an ancient
mulberry tree known by Shelley
under the walls of the cha|pel.
Floodlit, it was magic, as was the
nocturnal walk with Dr. Goodhart
through pitch-dark stone pas
sages into arched doorways and
into the brilliance of the lighted
■ *” Souls church.
Queen’s College quad^ another
Wren masterpiece, or Magdalen
tower was almost more than I
could bear. Oh, the masters of
stone of the 14th century!
Our sleep was gently broken by
the soft chime of a tower bell
ringing the hour. Pouring rain
made our morning tour hard go
ing but not one step of it would
I have missed. The garden border
under the ancient walls of Oxford
where King Charles I defeated
Cromwell were as brilliantly
beautiful in rain as in sun. In
fact, the flower planting every
where in Europe enlivens the
stone and makes me eager that
we should do more planting at
home. Senator and Mrs. Fulbright
had just been staying with the
Goodharts while on the Fulbright
scholarship conference.
We go back to London to part
company with Adlai who will go
to rest in the, sun of France unless
he can see Adlai Junior before he
leaves for Korea. In event of the
latter he flies home at once.
Ernest and I are going to have
two days with that vivid, fascina
ting, indestructible and irresist
ible Lady Uapcy Astor. How I
enjoyed meeting her last week.
She is beautiful, vital and anima
ted, a true Virginian. Back in the
17th and 18th centuries, Virgin
ians must have talked the way
she does now and the men in pub
lic affairs had no inhibitions of
self expression—our Nancy is the
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Lquisite little octagonal building
with a fine view of London town,
is the famed Greenwich time
piece. John Fell stood on the Mer
idian and had his picture taken!
The Admiral and his wife askea
Millie to bring us to tea ^d there
the usual leisurely and bountiiui cavi-l-oo...- -
meal” was eaten, looking into ^pg^Nck Henry of today! Long live
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we didn’t fail to recall that the
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Nancy
Historic Markers
As we leave this land, as we cn(^
our journey I want to say again
that with aU the startling exam
ples of war’s brutal seemingly
useless destruction, there
alongside these scars the sign:
Historic Property, National Mon
ument, National Trust Property,
Ancient Monument, Ministry of
Works, etc. I am so glad to sei
this sense of preservation, contin
uity -and respect making itself
more and more evident. We have
a serious lesson to learn here!
Over in Glasgow, we saw great
blocks of well spaced housing
units going up in the traditional
stone and never wffl they mar the
scene, as they will be the new
part of the whole.
This will be my last letter on
this wonderful trip. We have vis
ited places we have never seen
before, revisited ones we know,
seen Europe coming well along
toward final recovery from the
devastations of World War II. Our
hearts were warmed by the wel
come of old frienls and best of
all we saw the love and admira-
ition in which Adlai is held,
wherever we went, by those of
“low and high degree.” The taxi
driver at Stratford-on-Avon,
where John Fell Stevenson and
I journeyed to see a magnificent
performance of King Lear at the
Shakespeare Memorial Theatre,
jumped from his seat and pulled
off his cap and said: “It’s an hon
or indeed to be driving you, ot,
upon hearing whose son John FeU
was! And as I sat between Lord
Salisbury and Mr. Atlee, Leader
of the Opposition, at Lancaster
House where a brilliant official
luncheon was given for Adlai, my
heart and eyes told me here w^
honest esteem, when he respond
ed to a request to speak. And I
felt the same thing the day we
went to tea at the House of Com
mons to hear his “informal re
marks” to a group of about two
hundred members. If anyone be
lieves the British aren’t given to
show enthusiasm, he should have
been with us on that occasion-
The crowd was so great at the
English-Speaking Union reception
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