i t. ..J t j .
. IJ .:-r.alC.rital I
- t KSS2y CARTER tl ,.i L III
- " Washington. Now It can be told
, who . started tba depression and
why! . . v
. ' It was Australia, many months
. before our' stock market crash, and,
, the why is that change In fash-
j 1 Ions played nob with Australia's ex-
porta of wool, for the simple rea
1 son that women stopped wearing so
" S " many woolen garments and men be
' gan wearing lighter clothes. ' -,
. ,t ' Whereupon, nearly every one la
,. 1 'Australia being "poor," - and the
, balance of trade against Australia
' reaching frightening , proportions,
Australia ' ' clamped on drastic re
strictions ' against f Imports, espe
cially leveled against automobiles
and tracks. v'.;'--;- plt,:
- Which, added to the fact that np
. 1 to then Australia had been the larg
est single purchaser of American-made
automobiles, and - trucks,
knocked over the first ' card of a
' ; , distressingly long pile, and each
successive falling card - knocked
over the next one. -
All of which, of course. Is not
really' Intended to convince anyone
that Australia really started the de
pression, or that " the , present lm
' jpasse on world.-trade-woold not
have resulted If there had been no
Australia, but Is a highly Illu
minating) : telescopic view of the
world situation reduced to an easily
understood formula. ; ?
It - Is particularly appropriate at
the moment In view of the hubbub
up over' the alleged statement of
President Roosevelt that foreign
trade Is a thing of the past, to which
' Senator A. H. Vandenberg paid so
much attention In the senate.
'- ' It is also appropriate with Italy
and Poland Just having restricted
i Imports of American automobiles,
machinery and many , other prod-
, - nets to one-fourth of the 1934 fig
ures, . . '
Look at the Record
Without attempting to place Aus
tralia In the prisoner's dock, there
fore, let's look at the record. The
" big commonwealth "down under"
' 1 made these restrictions well in ad
vance of the beginning of the de
v ' presslon here. The date . of this
" beginning 'In America Is hotly dis
puted, but most economists agree
that the stock market crash of Oc
tober, 1933, was merely the re
' suit of a collapse In business, which
was already well under way before
most business men even those en-
gaged 4n ; the . Industries hardest
i bit appreciated It; Nearly, every
v one" thought It was' just a tempo-
s ' - rary dip In the production curve.'
They had heard cries- of "Wolf I
Wolfl" a dozen times before dur
ing the Coolidge administration, but
had seen business march on to high
er levels later, with stock market
Trices continually climbing as a re
- ' suit
I But when Australia stopped buy
I ' ling American motors and trucks
the avalanche started, though no
lone thought for the time that It
was more than a pebble tolling
' 'downhill. For the drying up of mo
tor manufacturing, with Us cutting
:, : down of buying from steel plants,'
; tire factories, battery makers, , up
holstery weavers, etc., was well un
der way by July, 1929, three months ;
before the stock market dive.
j What brings all this up for con
sideration In Washington at the
moment Is that several very lm
, portant persons, some from Europe
and some from other parts of the
; ' ' world. Including Australia, have
'been In our midst for the last few
days, and have been trying to fig
ure out how to end the present in
ternational trade stalemate.
Nearly every one agrees that if
some nation would Just start the
'upward push, as some, think Aus
, ' trails started the downward drive,
, i tbe world could work out of the
' ipresent doldrums. But how to get
started? Naturally the visitors with
' " 'One accord say that the United
7 ' I iStates Is the nation to start It. The
British say that we should reduce
'.' . our tariff on textiles, whereupon
, they would buy more of our cotton,
etc. That gets a loud laugh, though
' . v' 'with no mirth, in New England, not
to mention North Carolina. But It
4 Illustrates the difficulty of applying
self starter.
' Old Problem Up Again
' t1 ' The old long and short haul rail
- .road rate controversy Is due for
, " - another airing. This time the sub
. 1 , Ject will be brought up In an effort
' to help the struggling railroads.
' Chairman Rayburn, of the house ln-
' T ,terstate and foreign commerce com-
- mlttee, proposes to try to remove
one of the restrictions in the pres-
.' nt law which has irked the rall--...roads
considerably.
This la the provision that If a
through-rate Is made, which hap
. . J pens to be less than the rate for
part of the same distance, the cheap
r through rate must be compensa
tory. Or In short that 1the rail
road nrust make a profit at the low
- '. r rate.':"';'':i:v.';f;,";;'.,; ;
At first blush It would seem that
' 'the railroads would have no ob
jection to such a provision. But
' tbey have plenty. ' Their chief ob-
lection la that tbe Interstate Com-
jmerce commission, - worrying about
ithla injunction, has been very slow
about approving any cheap , through
rates, It was said, time and again,
Jto some railroad seeking to put one
"."- rate, , there v i
no u Aon It 1 ''..' '
Wl , the. railroad company
Invol, ght be perfectly sure
that t 3 would . be more dollars
In Its t easury at the end of any
given period If It were allowed to
make that rate, whether It could
prove that ' the particular .rate
would yield a profit on the particu
lar shipments made under It or not.
The point Is that it Is next to
impossible for a railroad to figure
whether it- makes the profit on. any
particular ; shipment : 'v, It knows
where it stands, within reason, on
Its entire business. But It is very
difficult to break the thing down the
way mathematicians . would" Ilka.
For It is not a question of subtract
ing the cost of ap Item from the
selling price, deducting , handling
Charges, and figuring the profit, as
it would be In a retail store. '. -
How It WtnkiWhnMMt
' In fact, railroading Is almost at
the other extreme from a j retail
store when It comes to figuring what
should be charged - the Customers.
To consider a specific case tf how
this long and short haul thing
works, take the three cities of Vltts
burgh, Toungstown and Chicago.
The Baltimore and Ohio might con
elder It good business7 to make a
rate, from Chicago through to Pitta
burgh cheaper than from Chicago to
Toungstown, though Its trains from
Chicago to Pittsburgh pass through
Xoungstown. ; , ;, -vj? :(,
If by this lower rate to Pittsburgh
a large number of cars loaded with
freight Should be added to each
train, there would be no doubt about
It For It costs very little more to
haul a train of 100 freight cars
than a train of 80 cars. Or to haul
a train of 60 cars than a train of
40 cars. - Even the fuel cost of tbe
trip la not raised anything like pro
portionately by the additional cars.
Whereas, the labor cost Is rarely
advanced an amount worth consid
ering. ' But the law does not take cogni
sance of this factor: It says that
the lower rate, must be compensa
tory. And the I. C. C. has been
holding that this means there must
be a profit which can be demon
strated, at the low rate. And this
Is a hurdle which the railroads have
not been able to take, - . -
New Trade Treaties v,
- Trade treaties with Sweden, the
Netherlands, Switzerland, and Spain
are almosj ready. This is the an
swer to the erroneous statement
that the publication of the sensation
al George N. Peek report proved
President Roosevelt was now aid-.
Ing with him In bis row with Secre
tary of State Cordell Hull
As a' matter of fact,, on- the very
date on which the, peek report was
made public the President passed on
some details with respect to the pro
posed treaty with Sweden, Indicat
ing his general approval of the Bull
policy.
Whereas, when asked for com
ment by newspaper men a few days
before tbe Peek report in their
hands for release later was print
ed, the President smiled It Off, say
ing that not even the author could
vouch (for all the figures I 1 '
American match Interests have
been terribly concerned over this.
Swedish treaty. Again Japan, the
chief target of the protesting tex
tile Interests, figures. True, it is the
general impression that Japanese
matches," like Japanese light bulbs.
are not as good as those made in
this country, but cut prices spell
trouble for better goods, many a
time, as every merchant knows.
Now Japan would like nothing
better than for the United States
and Sweden, In their negotiations
for the reciprocal trade treaty, to
agree -to reduce the American duty
on matches. For under the "most
favored nation" clause Japanese
matches at once would get Just as
much benefit as Swedish matches.
America is the promised land of
match manufacturers all over the
world. It Is virtually the only coun
try where matches are not either a
government monopoly or taxed out
of all reason. , - - M
Match Market Limited :
So rich In revenue is the match
In most foreign countries that there
Is a tax. on lighters. In fact It Is
sometimes said that tbe only public
lighter In all France is the one in
the lobby of the chamber of dep
uties! , ' '. '
. Obviously the match market of the
world Is very sharply limited .by
these artificial restrictions. Just as
the cigarette market Is restricted by
governments anxious for a big rev-,
enue.
: Experts say that American ciga
rette manufacturers would drive all
others In the world out of business
If artificial barriers were :removed.T
But also that the Swedes and the
Japs, the first on quality (though
they are not as good as American
matches)' and the second on price,
would capture the match market If
artificial barriers were eliminated.
Sweden is hanging up a - bit of
tempting bait to American negotia
tors, however. ; She promises that
she will reduce duties and restric
tions, which would result In the
Swedes consuming , vastly larger
quantities of American fruit and
other farm products, . Now the agri
cultural vote that woufa be Inter
ested in this new market is very
large. ' Whereas the vote Interested
la match production Is rather smalL
All of which Indicates that the con
cessions Sweden wants will be made.
Wrriht WKO strvio. ,
,0V
i.JL
V D..;'
1 ;$'Slt2
i.
NEWS," thrilling , news I . Spring
: and summer brides-to-be will
please take notice. It's' about' the
white satin shirtwaist dress which
Is the very newest thing In wed
ding gowns. See this perfectly
charming new fashion as worn by
the lovely bride standing to the
right In tbe picture. "
Mora news! Ton would never
guess unless you were told, namely,
the shirtwaist and train are built
In one and worn over a sleeveless
evening gown of the Identical satin.
Which we think Is a decidedly prac
tical two-ln-one costume proposi
tion of which, every style-seeking
bride ought to know. -
After . the nuptial day when the
happy newly wed la Invited, to par
ties and fortnals she Just leaves
the white satin shirtwaist en train
with the, tulle Tell en masse done
up In their wrappings of tissue and
sachet while she dona the sleeve
less dress which served as .the
foundation of her wedding gown.
The captivating simplicity of this
exquisite shirtwaist bridal gown Is
Its big appeal The trim row of
neat little satin-covered ' buttons
and the girlish wide turnover col
lar with Its pleatlngs of satin about
It and at the wrists are beguiling
ly youthful In aspect From a cor
onet of pleated tulle falls a halo
and abort cape supplemented with
yards' and yards of tulle trailing
out over the conventional long satin
train. : ' ,
ta&l an J L L 1 Z .
. The other bride
'In the picture
yields to the lore
of lace which Is
what most every
body In fashion'!
realm Is1' doing
this season. This
lovely, gown is most enchanting--,
an aristocrat among .wedding
gowns. The, coronet of pearls and
tulle pleatlngs Is attached to one of
the very new and Smart long-back
short-front-; weddlng Tella.5
We have been hearing a lot of
late In regard, to personality fash
Ions. In other words the' spirit of
the times Is to dress to type. This.
reeling ior mooes tuned to tne in
dividual is particularly evidenced
In bridal array. So much ao de
signers are displaying a daring In
originating ; wedding party ; ensem
bles, which" to say the least Is de
lightfully refreshing. ,H;0
We have In mind an away-from-tradltlon
wedding group that goes
In , for ; colqr even , to '. the bride's
gown and veil Heir dress ' Is fash
ioned of chiffon In a most delicate
tint of blue and her tune veil is
in the same subtle bine. : Her bou
quet of pale bluish, almost white
orchids together With . lllles-of-the-valley
la .framed with - a pleated
ruffle of the pale blue tulle, i
. The four bridesmaids' costumes
are of the same' blue chiffon as
the bride's dresses. The high waist
lines are accented' with pink velvet
ribbons such as also tie the pleated
capes and .trim the f smart '-blue
straw hats.'
:' The maid of honor, wears pink
chiffon trimmed; with blue velvet
ribbon and her bouquet of pink but-,
terfly roses and blue lace flowers
is repeated tn a wreath on her hat
The matron of honor wears a tunlo
dress of sapphire blue lace with a
matching traw hat ; ) ' '&
' Y't C Wtra NmpiMrTJalaB. '.X'
FOR TOWN WEAl
Br CHE RIB KICHOLAS
f -
.j,-''..- ' '-stJSfr''
..7'L a L
! Si
Thls brown and white printed
Jacket ' dress Is smart . for . town
wear. ,, The dresl' has so Interest
ing stltched-down scarf. The but
tons on the tailored Jacket alter
nate brown and white.. The ' belt
In brown and the brown and white
boutonniere tune In with tbe color
scheme. ' i ,;' ,.
" "Snow Top" Fur
The high 'spot In fur la a cape of
"snow top fox," a ' new dye which
"snows" the surface and leaves the
(nr dark underneath.
Novelties In White Piqoe -f
' White pique bands 4any a hat
ind ties itself into bowa over the
front " 1 '
SOME HIGHLIGHTS v
IN STYLE PARADE
x A word to the-wise In the counv
try - where summers are hot and
long, against the heavy man-tailored
suit with its accompanying tweed
topcoat Tbe casual lighter weight
dressmaker type with wr without a'
long coat will give better and long
er service, ; 'kf ' i,
Dont forget that, spring jneans
new' costume Jewelry, and. keep an
eye out for necklaces. ' ' - ' .
Hats are with and without brims,
up . and down, "out In front, ' and
something less than' nothing flat tn
tbe back. "s "",)'
''For colors,' blue seems to be in
the lead, but 'gray, brown, yellow
and the dusty pinks and zinnia tones
are Important
Velvet is carrying on Into-drummer.?
With lace' daytime and eve
ning : clothes,' wesr little - velvet
capes, Jackets and scarfs. They
make the richest, the smartest and
the most attractive combination.
. Never In years have dainty -feminine
lingerie touches been more
Important .' ' ' -
Smart women ate carefully study
ing' their types and dressing them.'
Even the strictly tailored clothes
must have, a feminine touch, v .'
Flapper Mode, Revival la v
i Suggested by Short SkiH
- , The Introduction of the short, full
skirt In some Paris' collections - has
set the fashion world to wondering
whether the flapper Is returning.
Several : designers showed daytime
skirts that were an - Inch or two
shorter than those of the previous1
season and most of them endorsed
skirt fullness. Pleats and gathers
shared attention. ,
Fluctuating skirt lengths also
were a sensation of the : evening
modes; - Ankles appeared again and
attain. The skirt which wak sufit
clently short -to show footwear at
the front frequently Was longthenert
to touch the floor at the back and
sometimes to form a train. "
' New York. After six solid yenrs
of storm and still, sun and swelter,
aa leader of the Whitney South Sea
expedition which has been collect
ing ; specimens for . the , American
Museum of Natural History. In the
South Pacific, William F. Coultas.
leader of the expedition, has finally
returned to New Tort:; rV;-::
, Since .1929, when . Mr. Coultas
took : command of the;. expedition,
sponsored by Barry Payne Whit
ney, and later by Mrs. Whitney, he
has cruised more .than 25,000 miles
in the ; South Pacific .aboard ..the
France, a 75-ton auxiliary schoon
er, and visited some SO Islands and
island, groups., In s the course of
these visits he, collected aboat lO,
000 specimens of : birds, mammals
and reptiles for the American, mu
seum': plus , several , thousand " In
sect parasites and. fully 73,000 va
rious kinds of ahells. pj.'''
..During tbe past three years, Mr.
Coultas vwaa accompanied by nil
wife who created a sensation among
the natives on many islands who
had seen1 few white' men and never
a white woman, . -
. , According to F. Trubee Davison,
president, of the American museum,
. . . the Whitney South Sea expe
dition during almost, a decade and
a half of ceaseless research and
exploration In the South seas, has
added chapters of, untold value to
man's knowledge ot natural history,
particularly bird life. In that re
mote section of the world. ' 1
( Many New Specimens,
Mr. Coultas contributed about
four-score Specimens ' toward these
new-discoveries mainly land bl(ds
during the six years be- headed
the: expedition. - Chief among these
Is a. type "megapode" from the
Nlnlgo- Islands.-. . The qneer : thing
about this strange bird Is that it
was flrs,t discovered and described
by Bougainville, one of the early
French Pacific explorers, and has
not .been seen by an ornithologist
since. N. There has , never been a
series of this' bird taken previous
ly a drab-colored bush fowl as big
as a hen, and Its chief claim to
fame Is that It. lays a 814-Inch
egg. i -','
Another bird collected by Mr.
Coultas is the "DJahn," native name
of a bird hot unlike our barn owL
It is about 18 Inches tall and has a
peculiar, , high-pitched ' cry that
sounds somewhat like a traffic offi
cer's whistle., r
"My time in the Admiralty Group
Islands,? . said Mr., Coultas, "was a
difficult .one. The natives were
surljs ' arrogant.' treacherous the
most difficult we found In the whole
South setts, and due to- their lazi
ness add cunning "they .were of no
assistance whatever! A 'ease In point
Is tbe Island of Manns, 'where Very
tew whites have ever visited the
Interior. Here we were practically
ordered out of the bush." But we
wanted to get a. DJahn.' i
. - "From - generation, native have
reverenced ' thia .owl ' They say
IThat when it cries,- some one will
die.' And should anyone kill one ot
the:' blrda, tbaj la sore jlgn of
death. M'-i :,:'i?: ' v:'-'
"By sheer luck X had obtained 'a
female along 'the seacoast but I
went about 15 miles Into the in
terior In the middle part ef the
Island of Manus to Investigate some
chalk caves where I was told 1
could find more of this particular
species. : I arrived on : a' Friday,
made a camp; and began my hunt
In the chalk caves. The old chief
of the village accompanied me, the
first two .days. : His name was
Duwal, Xroni, the village cf Metawa
rl) He was friendly- but ' uneasy.
Hunting : owls was - defying ithe
goda.--c if-i 'wt'foSty
, 'ifi Natlvee'Are ,urly."" '.
-"One 'Sunday, for some unknown
reason, the Old : chief became Sud-
i f Pretty Caroline Nelll of I
ter,-'Comv who Is this year
tain ' of i Wellesley college v
denly ill and on Mdnday mor
when I set out ;on another tr' !
the' caves, I found that 'bo v 1 -Ing
unconscious In his houm. t
waa about six o'clock In the i -Ing.-
I went, to a cave alone f i
obtained a beautiful .male. I ?
highly elatqd, but my Joy vais! 1
when I returned to camp at 9:t ). I
was horrified to. bear the death ..'.1
of the women. Who had died? I
learned soon enough It was the
Old chief. The.' natives - were far
more' surly than they- had bteo,
heretofore almost threatening.,
"Our next 18 hours were indeed
uncomfortable,, because the ' na
tives gathered around our camp In
droves, and bne even attempted to
assault .-. us. We ' were vastly re
lieved when we succeeded In get
ting a runner down to the seacoap
for some of the coast, dwellers t
paddle ns down the river and tak
US OUt iih'f';, '
,The Whitney expedition had no
unfriendly tilts . with the natives,
but theTe were rimes -When Coultas
bad to proceed with tactful diplo
macy; This was! especially the case
In the Admiralty islands, where he.
found the natives surly and trrl
table. He laid the blame for their
disposition on the climate, poor foot)
and overcrowding. , , s,.
)-,:
' V':'
:,,.vi. " ,.vi..;.v.r ffyr.'sf'i
By L L. STEVENSON
Time waa in the fashionable sec
tor, when no evening at home, was
considered ' complete . without an
after-Sinner game of earoms. But
In the post ' war flurry, with apart
ments and hotel dwellings taking
the place of mansions, the billiard
table, once,: as jlmportant a piece of
furniture : as the grand piano, was
relegated to the storage warehouse.
It remained for a group .ef the
younger social set to do something
about It So quarters on the seven
teenth' floor of the Waldorf-Astoria
were leased, and four !' tables in
stalled. Hence' the Carom club.
The board of. governors Includes
such names as the John Jacob As
tors, Princess Dolly Oblensky, Mrs,
Duke Blddle. the F. Bartholomay
Jelkes, the Philip Kip Bhlneland
ers, the William C Porters and the
William D. Whltneys. ,; There are
also other names that sound as If
listed on -pages torn-indiscriminately
from the Social Register. , So a
pastime of the Mauve decade la at
least on its way back, ' , ', ,.'
-;-;,''.' V''t
Increased leisure, some brought
about by President Roosevelt's New
Deal and some enforced, has occa
sioned new Interest lq Indoor games.
For Instance, at the toy fair, more
table and parlor , games for adulta
are shown this year than ever be
fore. - Many,', of eourse are new.
Others are old reliables played by
our mothers and fathers and even
our grandmothers and grandfathers.
For instance, one of the big de
partment stores1 reporta1 that the
demand, for domlnoea Is still con
stant, .Checkers are , played on Park
avenue as "Well as in' flrehouses and"
general stores. At a little affair on
Park avenue the' other evening, the
hostess brought ant parches! boards
and a good time was had by all
Have not encountered tldely winks
yet but- wouldn't- be surprised to
run Into that - dimly- remembered
pastime any evening. ' - - .
Speaking : of old-time " pastimes,
there are those pinochle games In
a second floor upper Broadway res
taurant that have been In continu
ous session each bight for the last
thirty yeara. ; Waiters who started
to attend the players as mere boys
are gray-haired norav Asked one If
wives didn't, Object ' to .their hue
bands being away every' night and
the reply was that they didn't be-J
cause they knew where their hus
bands were. The games are closed
to outsiders "and one player la said
to nave waited twenty years for a
vacancy. - Some of the on-lookers
have been In their chairs more than
a decade and have developed Into
probably tbe most expert kibitzers
la town..:!.;.!:'?5:;:?
- The latest patron of the arts la
none 'other than BUiy 4n .Oyster
man,' who has been looking after
the appetites, of the -'epicures : of
Washington square ever since he
learned what an oyster looked like.
Believing that struggling young art
iste, should have a iilace to display
their best works, he so : arranged
things that, a group both from i this
country and - abroad could exhibit
their, works on the walls of bis East
Twentieth street establishment and
that's the 'reason for, the outdoor
show now '1b progress. j It .is the
oysterman's hope that some patron
will come . along, and discover
among the etchings, water colors,
eta, a rpearl of price,; which Is
something he hasn't done In all his
years of experience with Oysters.
'.. ': -,:'... ",t'i-;' A.rs,.: ..-'
This yarn waa told to me as k
fact: One of those Washington
square stragglers came home, the
other -evening and - found that his
Infant daughter ' had played With
the Work on bis easel a scene of
the square on which he had spent
many hopeful days. As be was
surveying the sad smear, a friend
entered with a moneyed up-towner. :
The up-towner took one look at the
ruin on the easel- and bought it. ; '
holding that It was Just what he- ;
wanted to round out hia collectloa - .,
i . . ,
Box office eavesdropping) report- ,
ed by Bollo B, D.: Man': "Two la
the orchestra, please." Clerk: Sor
ry, there are only two singles left"
Woman: "They'll be all right If
they're i together." ' Man : Never
mind, well goto the movies."
; 'A report baa It that because Den-
nis King does so much horseback y v
riding out at Great Neck, the man-. : -manageinent::
of "Petticoat, Fever? :
has Insured his life for $25,000,.
thns brotectins themselves aralnst ' . "
Doss should , he : be killed, -U , Bight ,.;C
thoughtful that!.
.yS-BeuayeaicrtsL-vawioe,
:in of; Youth,Giveit; ;V!-
-.m Course in Collese c ;
Boston-A new course, in . the '
"sins -of youtb'' . wUi ;be available''
next year at Boston university.
; The . course called "Institute -of 'f.
Character Adjustment," will -train-':: y $
those- who deal with adolescent de--:i:y
llnquente and be Included to the unl; : "! -veralty's
school o't rellglqqs and so- .. -claj
. workJ-.'tii' fl;iiS';'t! : f -: "
4 With only 'college graduates el- ;
lglble, the program la based on the" ,
results durlag the past two yeara fe : !; J
at the school In techniques of pay--,'"''
etiological kaos-lioeBt;
Printing on PeanuV ' ,? $
i Vendor Tax Worry
Seattle, Wash. Just how- can
you print upon a handful of pea
nuts: "The 2 pert cenr" state
sales tax has been prepaid upon
this commodity." .- That is what's
worrying machine : operator!' in
Seattle, who, according to law.'
can prepay the sales tax on their
products, when the fax -becomes
effective In July, but must' print
upon them the fact that the tax
has been paid In advance.:: -fr''y
Cloisters fo r Be Built, With Rockefeller, Gift
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i A gift of $2,f5OO,O0O from John D. Rockefeller, Jr., to the Metropolitan MuBeum of Art In New Xork I
made possible the building of the structure pictured here. "The Cloisters" and surrounding grounds
Occupy four acres In Fort Tryon park overlooking th6 Hudson, and It Is hoped will be ready fur public .
tlon by 1933. This structure will house the art objects sold to tbe museum la 1" j ty C ; ' i
noted sculptor. - , . . .''' '' ? ,,; '"'r''' '