l A New Shampoo for Dried Out Hair This Oil Massage Reconditions the Scalp After Long Exposure to the Hot Sun Before Starting I his Special Oil Treatment and .'soaplrs* Shampoo the Split or l’arehed I'.nds of the Hair Should Be • f lipped Off, a* Shown Above. By JOSEPHINE HUDDLESTON Author of "My Secrets of Charm." I SEEM to take it for granted that most of you have neg lected your beauty during the Summer, but from the nature of the complaints and inquiries I’m beseiged with on all sides, 1 think the attitude is justified! It seems that every one I see or hear from is in a panic over the condition of their hair or skin; what with dryness of both skin and hair making i» sudden appearance, tans to bleach out, split ends to be eliminated and general rejuvenating to be. en tered into. So far, I’m happy to report, figures seem to have im proved while enjoying the out-of door activities and that is some thing to be grateful for. Of course. Dame Fashion has al lowed for the curves which now characterize the fashionable fig ure, and so the need of reducing has been dispensed with to a great extent, the majority of women not being over-weight at the present time. Today we’ll discuss methods of polishing up the tarnished crown ing glory so that the new Fall hats won’t be disgraced when we don them. Next week we’ll see what can be done about bleach ing and refining the skin. Thus we'll get fairly well launched on our Fall beauty treatments rather quickly. For many years now the use of hot oil applications has been considered the best possible method of overcoming the ill ef fects of too much exposure to sun and wind. From time to time, newer and better oils and. methods of application have been launched and it is to one of these I wish to bring your attention today. One reason why 1 favor the special applicator depicted above, is because the oil used in it not only has remedial value but acts as a shampoo as well, cleans ing the hair thoroughly without soap, so that none of the bene fits of oil treatments are lost by subsequent shampooing with al kaline soaps to remove the ex cess oil. It might be well to review some of the salient features which characterize dry hair conditions before entering into the details of the special treatment to be given in this article. Constant exposure of the hair to the sun and wind dries the oil from the surface of each hair shaft. The ducts may be func tioning properly by sending forth sufficient oil to give the needed protection to the hair for normal What One Girl Wore— By Betty Brou n lee THERE is no doubt about it. Fall has arrived. One just has to stroll on the Avenue and note the many new costumes to be assured that it is the beginning of another season. Sheer woolens in interesting weaves seem to be most popular for street frocks, and we noticed many girls wearing these with out coats on the first cool days of the month. Of course, for dress wear satin has established itself as a leader once again. Satin frocks for Fall emphasizing the influence of the romantic age are worn with the new hats, and the effect is really stunning. The silhouette, with its old-tashioned lines, is certainly different than it has been for the last few seasons— even though you don’t think it quite as modern or as free. There are plenty of simple models that the conservatives can still wear with the assurance that they are smartly dressed. For in stance, we saw a girl on the Ave nue the other day wearing the very simple and very fashionable suit sketched here today. It really is a jacket frock. The dress itself has a white satin bodice (black and white remains one of the favored combinations) with a cowl necklace. The skirt flares softly from a pointed yoke. Sparkling rhinestone buttons fasten the very short fitted jacket, which boasts three-quar ter-length sleeves. Nothing could be more appro priate or in such excellent taste for wear during the first cool The Jacket Frock Illustrated Is of Black Satin. The Frock Itself Boasts a White Bodice with Cowl Neckline. \ Yoked Skirt Flares Gracefully. days of the new season. Later this costume can be worn com fortably under the Winter coat. Ilia Cup-Like Neck of the Electric Combination Applicator and Rubber Bruah Is Filled with the Soapless Shampoo Mixture. In five Minutes AFTER the Current Has Been Turned On the Mixture Will Be Sufficiently Warm for Application to the Scalp. or average exposure, wnen ex posure is more than normal, as it is apt to be during the warm weather period when most of us go hither and yon without a hat, the hair itself becomes dry and brittle although close inspection reveals a normal, healthy scalp condition. To add to the drying effect of exposure to the sun and wind is the drying action of the perma nent wave most of us had early in the season so that constant trips to the beauty shop could be discontinued during the Sum mer. I wonder how many of you continued the oil treatments during the Summer which are so essential to off-set the drying ef fect of the permanent waving process ? Had you continued this policy, if only to insure greater beauty for your wave, you would not be annoyed by split ends and a general dryness of hair! With a normal scalp condition and a dry hair condition, it is necessary to supply the oil needed to put elasticity and life into the hair itself without flooding the scalp. Also, it is essential that the hair shafts be allowed to re tain the oils they have absorbed. This means that alkalines must be kept away from the hair for alka line dissipates oil. Most soaps have an alkaline content, no matter how good they are as soap. That is why all beauty experts are urging those suffering from dry hair to avoid the use of even bland soap until the hair and scalp have been brought back to a normal state. All of us realize the cleansing value of oil. One of the main objections to ordinary oils, how ever, is that they must be washed out of the hair with a lather produced by soap. Naturally such treatment is more helpful than none at all, but the oil shampoos which require no after lathering with soap are proving the very thing needed under such circumstances. There are a number of them on the market at present, al though they are used mostly in beauty shops. However, as soon as the buying public realizes the advantages of the soapless oil shampoos they will be marketed in the corner drug store as so many other toiletries now are. In the meantime, the treat ments may be had in the beauty salon, the head of the shop frequently can be per suaded to sell one a bottle for i home use, or they can be pro- i cured with the special appli- I cator illustrated above. Whether you have the reju venating treatments in the beauty salon or whether you procure the necessary acces sories and do the job at home, the method should be as follows. First all split and dry ends should be clipped from the hair. This is done by twisting small strands of hair as tightly as you can and then, while holding the end of the twisted strand be tween the fingers of one hand, run the fingers of the other lightly up the strand of hair to loosen the ends. These loosened ends should be clipped off with the scissors. When all of the dead or split ends have been clipped from the hair, a general massage should be given to the scalp. This may be done with the fingers or with a patented vibrator as you wish. There are se- :ral types of auto matic massage accessories on the market which may be employed for toning up the muscles and tissues of the face, neck and chest as well as for inducing circula tion through the scalp. Once again let me remind you that hair thrives only on excess circulation and, in case you are inclined to under estimate the value of scalp massage, let me suggest that massage of one kind or another is the only way in which excess circulation can be brought to the scalp. Therefore, sooner or later, every woman must resort to some method of scalp massage if she is to retain the soft, lusterous texture which is essential to beautiful hair. Hand massage movements have been given so many times in this column that I hate to take suffi cient space to outline them again at this time. If you’ve forgotten or missed previous articles on the subject, you will find them fully outlined on Pages 75 to 81 in my beauty book, Secrets of Charm. Household Question Box By Mrs. Mary D. Wilson I'VEAR MRS.'WILSON? ” . Please teU me how to make a tan satin dress into cocoa color without injuring the satin or shrinking. HRS. C. B. There are many excellent and re liable dyes on the market with In structions as to their proper use. You should have no difficulty in dyeing tan a deep cocon, shade. Make sure your frock is absolutely clean. It is a good idea to experi ment with something small be forehand. Dyeing, of course, in volves much soaking in water, so non-shrinking cannot be guar anteed. Dear mrs. wilson: I have a new coal heater and I want to put it away for the Summer. Will you please tell me what to do to keep it from rusting and the nickel on it from tarnish ingt MRS. A. U. Rub your coal heater well with kerosene and stuff it with paper, wherever possible, to keep out the moisture. Incidentally, a few drops of vinegar mixed with stove polish insures wonderful results and makes the polish last longer. Nickel should 'be polished with whiting, moistened wjjh alcohol, ammonia or water. Dear mrs. wilson: I had the misfortune to get some tar on my white coat. About two hours later I rubbed lard on it and let it stand for about an hour. 1 then rinsed it. but the tar was as bad as ever. Please tell me how I can remove it. MISS C. J. Soak a piece of white cloth In eucalyptus oil and rup the stains with it. Dear mrs. wilson: Can a trunk be painted so that it will not scratch f Mine is about to be painted and / was wondering if there was a way to preserve the finish. TRAVELER. After painting the trunk, give the surface a coat of scratch proof Varnish. This Is obtainable at any paint store. In this column each week Mrs. Mary D, Wilton will answer all questions concerning the house hold. T heme Photos Poned by M/n Jo Hendley of the Cheater Hale Ballet. A Five-Minute Massage of the Scalp with the Small Electric Vibrator Stimulates the Circulation Around the Hair Roots. This Treatment Is Then Followed by the Application of Several Steaming Hot Towels to Open the Pores Before the Oil Is Applied. Finished with the massage, two or three hot towel compresses should be wound about the head to open the pores of the scalp and to induce further activity of the ducts and glands throughout the Scalp, Jtist saturate a large bath towel in very warm water, wring it out slightly, and wrap it lightly around the head. As soon as the towel begins to cool, re place it with a fresh, hot one. Three of these should be ample. And now we are ready to use the special applicator with its special soapless shampoo! Close inspection of the applicator re veals many interesting points of construction. The handle itself resembles the handle of an electric curling iron, but coming to the end where the curlers would be we find a bul bous affair fashioned from cast aluminum and having sufficient thickness to hold heat. On the under side of the aluminum bulb we find a rubber brush contrap tion in the center of which is dis covered a small hole with cap at tached. Removing the cap we find the opening which leads into the oil chamber which should be filled with the special soapless shampoo liquid. Replacing the cap, the applicator cord is at tached to any electric socket, the current turned on and the appli The Applicator Is Then Used On the Scalp After the Hot Towels and Thoroughly Distributes the Oil Over the Entire Head Through the Rubber Attachment on the Oil Reservoir. ( rator left to heat. In five min utes the oil will be hot enough for use and the current is then switched off, the heavy quality aluminum used retaining the heat sufficiently to keep the oil at an even temperature until all of it has been used. Massage the scalp with the rubber brush, tipping the head from side to side as needed to keep the applicator level so that the oil flows evenly, until all parts of the scalp have been covered. This particular oil is a highly refined vegetable oil 'which has been scientifically processed to give it cleansing and remedial value. The oil supplies sufficient nourishment to feed the dry hair while cleansing it. Should the scalp be dry, too, the combina tion of massage, nourishment and cleansing without alkaline con tent, soon normalizes the scalp condition. Ten ot fifteen minutes should be devoted to applying the oil and then the hair should be thor oughly rinsed in the good old way! How to Make Your Own Handbag Oilcloth Fashions This Attractive Model That Is Easily Cleaned By Winifred Avery A LADY from Minnesota asks me to write an article about oil-cloth. I’m not sure that this is what she would like to make of oil-cloth, but it is a “good-number” anyhow. I know for I made one myself. A slick hand-bag always recom mends itself to me, for it can be wiped off, no matter how dirty IT or numerous the finger prints. This bag that I have just made is of yellow oil-cloth, lined with yellow printed calico, with a ring handle that is really a ten-cent bracelet. Now that you have all the gossip on this bag, I’ll pro ceed to enlarge on its beginnings. In Fig. 1, I’ve shown the shape and size of the outside piece and of course this covers the lining too. You can cut this pattern without any trouble. Fig. 3 shows the lining, with the pockets indi cated. You can make your pock ets fit the things you want to carij in them. That is the way The Sketches at the Left Show the Shapes and Sizes of the Various Pieces ot the Mag and Can Be Used as Patterns for Cutting Out the Parts. The Above Drawing Shows the Finished Bag with Ring Handle and Flap Folded, Note the Trim Appearance of the Simple Design. When you get the pockets fin ished on your lining, baste the lining piece to the outside. Next turn your attention to the inner pocket. As you ■will see, it is not as large as the outside piece. You need not bother with this inner pocket if you feel that it is not necessary to your shopping com fort. Sew the inner pocket to the outside piece at point X as I’ve indicated in the drawing. Next sew in your zipper and then bind the edges together with bias tape. AH this is done before the outside is sewed up. The end pieces are then basted on and stltcheU with the tape around them. Tack the inner pocket to the center of the side pieces at point C. Bind the slit for the ring to come through. The ring is held to the purse by a strap. The strap is attached as I’ve shown in the sketch Fig. 4. It only took me one morning to make this purse—I wish I could make the money to fill it as fast. Questions may be sent with en closed stamp for reply to Miss Avery in care of this newspaper. APPETIZING MENUS FOR THE WEEK Breakfast Luncheon Dinner.. MONDAY Cantaloupe Flaked Cereal Cream Toait and Coffee Fruit Salad Cream Dressing Cracker* Iced Tea Boiled Ham Cabbage Boiled Potatoe* Stewed Peacbee Cookie* Demi-Tasse TUESDAY Scrambled Eggs Baked Tomatoea Muffina Coffee Geam Cheeae aad Green Pepper Sandwichee Cold Beverage Cold Sliced Ham Baked Be ana Fried Potatoea Lettuce Salad Layer Cake Tea WEDNESDAY Raspberries Oatmeal Cream Bread and Butter Tea Clam Chowder Tea , Crackers Iced Tomato Soup Broiled Steak Boiled Beets Creamed Rice Date Salad Lemon Gelatine 0 Demi-Tasse THURSDAY Grapefruit Bacon and £ggs Biscuits Tea Minced Steak on Toast Pickles Cake Coffee Jellied Soup Veal Loaf Baked Potatoes Lettuce and Tomato Salad Apple Pie Iced Tea FRIDAY Orange Juice Fried Ham Potatoes Breid and Butter Coffee Sardine Salad Toasted Muffins Coie Slaw Stewed Pears Tea Creamed Codfish Carrots Lima Beans Cucumber Salad Vanilla Pudding Demi-Tasse SATURDAY Strawberries Cereal Milk Toast Coffee Orange Salad Btscmts Milk Cream of Tomato With Croutons Boiled Tongue Spinach Potatoes Lettuce Salad French Dressing Lemon Cake Demi-Tasse SUNDAY Orangea Flaked Cereal Cream Biacuita Coffee Vegetable Soup Celery and Radiahea Roaat Chicken Peaa Tomato Salad Orange Gelatine Tea Cold Sliced Tongue Potato Salad * Banana Cake Cheeae Coffee Favorite Recipe of the week—— FTER the layer cakes hftve been nana fondant and sprinkle some large chopped walnuts on top. The banana butter cream is eaey to pre pare. To one-quarter of a pound of fine-grade butter add one and one quarter cups of powdered sugar and Dne-half cup of.mashed banana pulp. Cream butter and sugar well. Then add very slowly the nmshed pulp of a very large banana (or one-half cud of banana pulp). vuwikftiu. imeraiuMii wmct, UK.. utMt BrttaUJ ftiftau R«*«m>d.

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