Newspapers / The Charlotte Observer (Charlotte, … / Aug. 27, 1911, edition 1 / Page 16
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THE CHARIiOTTE NEWS, StJN'DAY MORKII^G, ATJG-FST 27, 1911. ^ S'iunnind f" Scipep'b Wfiite l.ace Collars Contps^t. ■Well \^tVn ‘BIscK-’^lvet B A Model 3lioYr2 tlie Cpa^e f"oP T^Pin^e .in Spsidin^ \ eivet \ elveteen and All Pile Fabrics Immensely Fashionable - A Frantic Fad for Fringe Just Now - East Indian St>ie Touches Ever>’- wbere - Skirts Shortened in Front to Show the Feet '» EFITTHIXG in Paris j- 't now Indiar.. *'no is ?ur- ® f ■ w::h ' :: -ntal colors and ■ lin^in:.- Oriental uraper- i ir- ’ln. are madly copy- • ~ tur^ar.s i-f th*- I'ast Indian, ; ' ‘1^ ’r I'led throiich I'arls •h Wrty * ar.Kl from thf 'orona- ti and *i!tshes are evrrywht-rp—on f kr '>n e\'enlnc )f>\vns t>ven on Ail this vivid ()rion- ' ^n'. huwpvrr, if the sumptuous, f ; us an-' p.'.. »ic (Mlttalisin of the } : Indif's \\ hi'c plavs a larsro j' ■ ■ in fdbrii'.o ar’cl !-mhrf'idcrirs; ine- r sarni; ir ' aif sulirlurfl and diill, ;'ii »-ffc"t of rlh olcKance r.''»h'r than tawdrv Kpipn^lor, and col- r;-*, ■ are Inexpressll-.ly licautlful— V”il. d to i*'S :..f rod, yellow, blue and grc'n. v.hich are not at all like the s rt-aming tints of an Orirntalism H subtlo and r^f'nf'd. The pimplt' tallort*d suit of ser^e is a thini? unknown in I'aris In this aea?nn of sumptuousr^'-s's. « >nr- wears puch a oostunit* = tily in th' mnrnin^^ ■ r on rainy ;iftf‘rii->«.r' Tnilored wear Is unhelievahly RorRcous, with hrald- Ings, brr.idorings, Kllnts of ijold and silver in braid and ford trimminRs, buttons fralort^ and f:ioint;:s .uid pip- lnt?a of brilliant silk introduoed in jiarprislnt? places. If th.‘r« is no defl- ni?p trimming: on a "simple” tnilorpd model, the matfrlal Is slashed to pieces and arraii^t*il in crosswise and oblique efforts to trlve variety. A blue and red striped st-rre !Miit of this •ort hafl a short cutaway coat with fitruppingrs of tho material running crosswise, and the tunic falls over a twelve inch hern of eros.swlse stripes. Hows of small red buttons add furth. r emphasis to the red and blue lined effect. Cutaway Cont.s Not Berimiinfj to All I'ijfiircs. Be^^ are of the t.'unnlriy cutaway, unless you are tall and sllfcht and rather boyish In fifrwre. The slightest suggestion of Kent'rous feminine curves and the cutaway becomes gro tesque. On the stout woman—but the subject Is too depre.=sing' to dwell upon! A cutaway effect in auRgested by one of th? velvet models illus trated today—but only suggested in a clever manner by a peplum which has fronts rounded off below the belt. This costume is particularly graceful and embraces all the Important style features for fall. The material is prrecn velvet—not fjuile the brilliant ''rienial green which is the color per mitted to those who have made the sacred j)llgrlmage to Mecca, but a rich, bottle green with emerald glints in th'* light. The satin cuffs and fac ings on collar and rever are black with bold stitching don^* by machine with \vhi‘- floss. Itows of small white pearl itullona Joined by white loops give a jaunty fmish on cuffs and tu nic, two rows of these button "lad ders” going down the back of the l>eplum and accentuating the lines of • he tlguie--- a feature of the new I’arls tailored wear. The belt is made of crushed black satin with pipings of white and the liuckles—^ one under each arm, for the l>elt go(>s only half way round—are of white ])oarl. The velvet skirt la slashed to show a petti coat of the 1»lack satin. Not only are skirts slashed now', but often the sides of the slash are turned back to make the petticoat opening appear V shaped. This turned back effect is suggested on the velvet suit just de scribed by a triangular ornament of black brflid, stitched at the side of the slash. Navy and Whlto a Modish Color C'onil>inatlon. The eternal black and white of the past season has a pleasing successor in the navj' blue and white blending which Is characteristically East In dian. Klue, with white trimming, is almost universally becoming and, while not as dashing and chic as black and white, Is more youthful In sug gestion. A charming velvet costume In blue and white has been brought over by a young matron who w^ent abroad to see the Coronation and did much shopiiing in I’arls afterward. This costume is a two-piece suit of deep blue velvet, with a tunic slashed . to show' a skirt of blue and white striped satin. The coat Is a cutaway with a broad shawl collar of the blue A 'Bluie Velv'et Suit wifh Unmi'SiaRable Paqain.L.irLe5 Wliite Bpoadcloth. .. a.nd Colored Velvet and white satin, finished with a blue silk tassel. AVhen a contrasting ma terial Is used on the skirt It appears I almost always on the coat In collar and cuff facings. This Is illustrated in the suit of mahogany colored vel vet which has a petticoat of white broadcloth and facings of the same material on the Corday collar and .sleeves. This is a most elaborate suit model and betrays the East Indian Influence in the coloring and embroid- I eries, which are done with white and I saffron pink on black satin. The tu nic Is turned back to show the white broadcloth skirt, embroidered motifs suggesting a turned back facing. The sleeves are quite short, as in so many of the dressy tailored models, and . are very loos& at the lower edge. The I lines of the'coat are graceful and the I model is well suited to a slender fig ure. The panel hanging at the front of the coat is a new style feature. Panels and pleats in front are the craze just now% this fashion having been adapted, of course, from the ' ^'^osleiTl dress. With this mahogany velvet suit is a hat of white felt, roll- >1 ed back in sombra style and faced :_with black. A singl^ ornament of dull ' gold set with coral holds the brim against the crown, i Another velvet suit, illustrating the popularity of braiding, shows also how a handsome lace collar is set off over the dark velvet. The collar pictured Is of macrime lace w'hich is extravagantly fashionable In Paris now. This lace is bold in design, yet delicate in^ workmanship and is ex- i tremely effective over dark coats and frocks. The suit in this picture is a , smart little model of black velvet with I a knee length tunic over a straight skirt, and with a graceful coat which defines the figure and has a peplum below the waistline. A cord girdle covers the joining of the two parts of ' the coat, an elaborate ornament dangling from the front of this cord. On this suit the tunic is short across the front, but drops almost to the edge of the skirt at back and sides. A band of rich braiding like that of the coat trims the skirt below the tunic. With this suit is shown one of the helmet bonnets which extend out ward over the ears. This bonnet Is made of violet velvet and has a shirred band and soft bow of hya cinth silk. Elaborate Trimmings on Ooth Suits. Even the simplest suits of wool ma terial are much trimmed with braid ing, buttons and satin facings, and there Is a new trimming notion this autumn—bold machine stitching done In rows w'ith bright colored silk. Pa- quln W'as the originator of this style of trimming, but it is now being cop- 1 led by other dressmakers, for noth- : Ing so smart has been thought of in ' many a day for the garnishing, of sombre tailored costumes. Paquin show’s a gay little blue serge suit trimmed w’ith rows of tiny w'hite but tons, scarcely larger than beads, and lines of white stitching,, ten rows at a time. Another of her suits is of dark blue mohair with stitchings of red silk. This suit w^as mentioned in a previous fashion talk. Many of the ready-to-w'ear tailored suits being brought out for fall have these ef fective machine stitchings. It takes the professional operator to do the straight, even stitchery in many par allel rows, to say nothing of the mo- i tif effects, which must be cleverly ! stitched around a marked pattern. ■ There are special machines with five ; or six needles which do as many ! rows of stitching in no time at all. I A coat and skirt of dark red serge I Illustrates this extravagant use of I braid and buttons. The entire sur face of the coat and skirt is covered with soutache braiding in straight, rows, alternating with the loop effect so fashionable just now. One sort of braiding crosses another at the foot ' of the skirt and on the lower edge ' of the coat. Manj’’ more buttons than , are really necessary are also used on this coat, rows of these crochet but tons being set along the outer edge ' of the cuff and on the collar and re- | ver. This suit has a coat which is ; slightly longer than the abbreviated , and jaunty models favored by many ; of the couturiers, and it fits the flg- ' ure quite decidedly in front as well , I as at the back. ^ Fringe at the Bottom of Skirts. I Fringe at the lower edge of a skirt ! sounds rather bedraggled, but this I3 J a very modish location for fringe, 1 and some dressmakers do not even add the under petticoat of satin, the j fringe dangling fllmsily around the wearer’s insteps and ankles. A Cal- lot suit of black cloth has a limp i underskirt of black satin, the cloth tunic coming only to the knee, ami the satin petticoat is bordered with three inch black fringe. A pecu liarity of this suit is the skirt, shorter , by two inches on one side than on i the other. Many of the French skirts ' are shortened in this way at one side I or in the front, and this effect when I a train is worn at the back Is rather j grotesque. Queen Mary, at her Cor- j onation, insisted upon having her I gown comfortably short in front even \ though she had to put up, for the sake of tradition, with the heavy court ' train at the back, and this may be ; the raison d’etre for the freakish ^ skirts which arfe appearing in Faria • now'. Sometimes black slippers and I flesh tinted silk stockings are worn ' with _ these skirts in rather startling , effect. I A Bechoff-Davld costume illustrates j both the use of fringu as a trimming : and the shortening CT the skirt in I front. This costume is built of pale ' blue wool taffeta and the fringe, which is very narrow, matches the material, i The fichu drapery over the shoulders ; appears to wind downward over the skirt in very graceful effect, the dra pery ending at the foot of the .=kirt in front. This front portion is but toned over to the side portion with a line of tiny self-colored crochet but tons, at the foot the skirt being left open in slashed effect. A feature of this gown is the short, loose sleeve w’orn over a full undersleeve which is stiffened with a loop. Heated carpets are the latest in vention for keeping a house warm. They are heated by electricity and are claimed to cost about one cent per hour to keep going. J^ullinb IJbe TVJlZYDOTi'^J* inWiniejrjnrim m- llaiidsuino Lace I>rapcr!es are for Formal Drawinip Roomus. IT always seems a pity to shut out summer: but when once the keen equinoctial winds begin to blow, dead brown leaves lie flattened against wet sidewalks and' the city lights gleam out long before dinner hour, there is a sense of comfort and cosiness In drawing substantial drap eries across the windows and seeking enjoyment in a pleasantly lighted room rather than in the bleak out-of- doors. Winter draperies are always richer, heavier and handsomer than those"of the summer season, ^ut this year there is a tendency toward even more richness and heaviness than hereto- i ore and velvet, brocade and tapestry window hangings will be much the vogue—when they can be afforded. It Is a well known fact that house fur nishings change with changing fash ions and every period of dress has had its corresponding era in decoration. The light prettiness, grace and frivolity,of the French period of the Louis period in decoration is in vivid contrast to the dignified and rather stern William and Mary period. During the e;irty days of the last century Victorian fashions—the most hideous of all fem inine fashions since the beginr.hig of time—were matched by the e‘ro- cious early Victorian furnishingB, when carved walnut beds and chairs, croclietted tidies, wax flowers under glass globes, absurd “what nots” and other meaningless decorations made all interiors hideous. During the past few years Empire eflects have been favored in accord ance with the vogue of everything First and Second * Empire In drees, and now that the Far East is having its influence on my lady’s costume we shall expect to see this Influence also playing an important part in the dec orations of , her home. All windows in rooms of a more formal type,- like drawing rooms, 11- I braries and dining rooms, have now 1 two and sometimes three sets of cur- I tains. Besides the lace draperies ! which hang over the window itself, i are the graceful curtains of heavier ; material which form a frame for the j opening ahd bring the window into i haimony with the wall and room fur nishings. If the window is at the j Iront of the house there may be, also, the third set—or sash draperies— , which hang directly against the pane and are not intended to show within the room, but are entirely fot the j benefit of outside eyes. ^This dressing ! up cf the house facade with dainty sash curtains w'hlch show only from I the outside is a most important part of the furnishing .scheme for the win- ter season. First impressions are al- I ways Important and hospitality with- ; In our doors will counteract the ef- j ff^ct of a bedraggled and badly trained maid at the portal, or windows which I present unpolished panes, flimsy hang- ’ngs or shades drawn “ev'ery which v/ay^ for Sunday” to the critical eye of a viaitor. A'he careful housewife sees to It I that her windows are kept shining j and spotless, that every shade is I drawn to the 'length ,of every other shade on that particular floor, and that her sash draperies are as good •looking as she can afford, and are, unijorm all ot’^r^ thei front of the »ou^. Cheap: and flinisy w'indow draMries are woirae than none at all, but/Tth^re a.re mariy charming mate rials by the yard which may be made up into dainty curtains at very little expense. Chief among these are the cream madrasses which come in all manner of figured and cross-barred patterns, and the plain nets which may be trimmed with lace insertion or simply hemmed :.nd edged with ball trimming or fringe. There are most elaborate net sash draperies, laced, shirred and beruffied, but these ornate hangings are out of place on a small house and when imitated in cheap material are ifi very bad taste indeed. I Drawing room curtains—the inner j curtains that show from within the I room—are usually of lace net, and ' for such draperies one may pay prac- [ tlcally any price up to hundreds of I dollars the pair. If economy is an I object, the plain net curtains wdth ^ a border of some effective braid lace : w'ill be found most satisfactory. Such ! a curtain, of cream net with a renais- I sance lace trimming, is illustrated. Women who know how to make this ] lace have achieved exceedingly hand some drawing room curtains at very little expense, and as the lace Is easy to make and the work goes quickly, at very little trouble as well. Figured madras curtains are the most satisfactory sort for the living room or dining room. There is a rich ness and a dignity about these curtains 1 though they do not suggest the formal- I ity of long, lace draperies. Some of the j stained glass patterns are much fa- i A’ored for dining room use, but for the ! living room the plain, creamy toned j madras with a simple figure or cross- j bar is best. These madras curtains are never draped back, but always hang in long, graceful folds from the I rod. Usually they cover the window.; in fact, most window curtains now I are drawn quite across the window opening, except in the case of bed room w'indow hangings, which are of ten looped back w'ith cords so that one has a view of the outer world. The third sort of w’indow hangings are the draperies of substantial ma terial w'hlch make a frame of the opening and give it character and . i grace. Festooned effects are becom- i ing more and more fashionable and sometimes three and even four full length curtains are used to mal-3 , these elaborate festoons across the ■ window’. An illustration shows a wide hall window draped with festoon hangings in a graceful yet formal style. Such draperies are very hard to manage and the amateur would 1 better not attempt them, but confine 1 her efforts to simple straight hang ings with a canopy curtain across a rod betw'een the straight ones at either side. Velour, silk tapestry, cotton ar- mure, mercerized rep, mercerized bro cade and darnask are used for these inside window draperies and there are inexpensive fabrics like monks’ cloth, friars’ cloth, denim and stenciled scrim which make attractive hangings for small apartments, den and I’v.r.g rooms. Satin with Oriental gimp and nsrrow fringe trimming makes hand some curtains for a ceremon 'US room. Colored pongee with insertions of heavy Cluny lace dyed to ma:'h is charming in some rooms. For very dark rooms the fishnet curtains which come in good shades of green, br^nvn and red are often a good choice conjunction with curtains of net lace. i m •y V'!’•:•••• M t t Tbe Printed Madras Curtains Are Liked in Living Rooms*
The Charlotte Observer (Charlotte, N.C.)
Standardized title groups preceding, succeeding, and alternate titles together.
Aug. 27, 1911, edition 1
16
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