THE SOTTDAY CITIZEN", FEBRUARY 4; 191T.
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i 1 I JfS 'Vl of Pale Yellow
I yy liTSw by t Georgette -wiu
I" 17 . . r-X j I . f Beaded A.TTnhol33
I X ",i:l .'I'iX ft Vi llT' -. ' and Much fend TuckT
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Many Tuck and "Bullon3 Closely dyouped.
jLiim tne nevv net wavst- ) he Beau
Bmrmmel Trill i a Noleworlhy Feature
Chemise Tunics of Chiffon MoslGracefulGarment In
Woman's Wardrobe In Years - Button In Back
Models and Short Sleeves A gain Favored By
Fashion - Cashmere Sport Shirts.
c-
i HE oew coring Dlousei are o
oft and sheer that most of
them can ba drawn through a
bracelet, and In consequence
fraca and daintiness are their
salient characteristics, chiffons, crepe
Georgette, softest silks, washable
satin, lac and crepe de chine are the
materials used for (he more dressy
models, the matinee and coatumo
blouses which will accompany spring
' tailored suits of silk, serge and the
wool and mofaalr weave which Is so
fashionable in Paris Just now. Sport
blouses, and the simpler tub models
for wear with separate skirts, of
which there ' are numberless new
styles, are of washable silks, hand
kerchief linen and organdy the lat
ter fabric having a tremendous vogue
for blouse wear just now. New and
excessively smart Is the cashmere
port shirt, a trimly mannish affair
with link cuffs and turnover collar
like a masculine negligee shirt, and
. cut amply to fit in the loose, graceful
manner desired"- without gathers or
tucks at the shoulder. These cash
: mere blouses have been the rage at
Aiken during the winter sport 'season
and have been worn with riding and
golfing costumes by the women whose
word on dress is authoritative. The
finest all-wool cashmere is used
whit cashmere almost Invariably
and the blouse Is stitched within and
without with silk thread, even the
seams showing this mark of exclusive
finish. The white cashmere blouses
are supposed to lnunder satisfactorily
and t hey will if very carefully
treated and not submitted to very hot
water, too strong a soap or too hot
an Iron but dry cleaning Is the best
way to freshen them, and most wom
en buy four or five so that there may
be no delay while soiled models are
at the cleaner's.
Colored Organdy Combined With
White.
A great many of the dainty organdy
blouses show touches of color and
some sre of colored organdy with
white touches. The "color" Is In
variably the palest tint, for daintiness
is the keynote in new blousewear, and
only flesh pinks, soft, faint blues, a
creamy tan and palest daffodil yel
lows are permitted. Colored blouses
of this sort have fine hand embroid
eries done in white, rlosely set rows
of small pearl buttons and narrow
hems of white organdy for trimming.
The white blouses show narrow
hems In color and lines of embroidery
in the new "running-stitch or "darning-stitch,"
done with ordinary bbw
ing silk. This new embroidery Is the I
i-raae in farm now ana is put on
frocks as well as blouses. When
there are several lines of the darnlng
stltch put close together In shaded
tonos of one color, the effect is very
dainty, and the trimming may outline
straight edges or be curved In scroll
effect.
Pintnrks KveTywherp.
Fullness, this year, is almost In
variably put In with plntucks so that
thoro Is no effect of bulkiness any-
Chif Porv Tunics or
"Chemise "Blouses ".
are Lied in wiUh.
aof 1 Sash
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Blouse Co11ht.3.va11 Lie Tlal andleeye are Full BelcwlheEVbovf
where. Plntucks are run in across
the shoulders at back as well as front,
and sometimes groups of fhese tiny
tucks control the fullness of the sleeve,
above the cuff. In several of today's
pictured blouses you will note the
dainty plntucklng that Is so much
more fashionable than shining or
gathers. In the chiffon chemise
Mouse, one of the prettiest and smart
est models pictured, the plntucks are
simply laid In the material at top of
sleeve and edge of yoke and are not
stitched below, but the effect Is much
softer than would be the case had
gathering threads been used. These
chemise blouses are delightful addi
tions to woman's wardrobe no other
garment brought out recently has
possessed more grace. Such a blouse
is becoming to any figure, even a stout
one. for the material falls so softly
and the knotted sash may be adjusted
high or low to suit the lines of the
silhouette. The blouse pictured Is of
flesh pink chiffon with running stitch
embroidery such as has been de
scribed, done with two shades of pink
sewing silk on epaulet-yoke and cuffs.
The blouse is entirely made by hand
sae for the hemstitching and plcot
edge on cuff and collar. These
chemise tunics come In white and
pale colors and also In navy blue,
plum, brown and other dark shades.
Net Blouses Over Colored Idnlnga.
Another evidence of the fancy for
color In blousewear Is the placing of
tinted linings under airy net blouses.
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Alport Blouse in simple Tailored .Lyle.but
Fashioned or oLL White wa'Sh.aPie yaun
These linings are usually of chiffon or I chiffon like the sleeves. Collar pnn
very thin allk for there must be no i cuffs are of the silk. Another fasten
suggestion of substantiabllity about In-back blouse cornea from Suzanne
the spring blouse. The lining Is quite Lievaln. This model Is made of yel
separate from the blouse and Is pro- j low Georgette and fits very loosely,
vlded with sleeves so that the color, bagging over the waistline, while
or tint, shows through the net every- sash ends of the material coming from
where. One may have a pale blue! the back, are knotted over the skirl
lining, a pale pink nnd a pale yellow j In front. I'ointed epaulcls and collar
lining for one's not blouse, or wear It i sections of cream fllet lace, a bead
over an elaborate lace brasslero In ; tassel swinging from each of the four
pure white. The net blouse pictured j points, outline a shallow square dec
is a good model In the tailored style, j olletage. And by the way, the square
Groups of tucks on blouse and sleeve j necked blouse Is tremendously the
are very effective as trimming and thing if one can wear It. The V
the wide collar and cuff, fitted with shaped neck opening Is much more
plntucks are exceedingly smart. The ; becoming to the average woman, and
broad Jabot frill Is a modish note of let her who Is past the dimpled days
this season that should not be over-; of youth beware of the round or Dutch
looked. These graceful frills escape
from the unfastened fronts of new
spring Jackets though the blouse, col
lar and cuffs are hidden under the
Jacket. The line of closely set but
tons down the front is another im
portant style detail for spring. Some
of the French blouses of white net
have short sleeves quite above the
elbow with little plisse frills at the
edge. Delightfully pretty are these
new elbow-sleeved models which will
surely be Immediately taken up wtth
enthusiasm, once they become known
to American women; for nobody loves
a long sleeve in summer time. The
short sleeve blouse, however. Is In
tended only for dressy wear at mat
inee or restaurant, or at home In the
afternoon, and there is absolutely no
authority for wearing anything but a
long Bleeve with any other sort of
blouse.
Button-In-Back Models Appear Again.
Not a few of the new blouses fasten
at the back and one of these models
Is pictured, a costume blouse of daf
fodil Georgette, with many plntucks
and some beads. This Is an over-the-walstline
model, and the outer tunic
has very large armholes outlined with
beads. The sleeves are drawn Into
narrow bracelets trimmed with the
beads, tiny frills of the Georgette fall
ing over the hand at the outer side.
The tiny white "milk" beads are
sewed in groups on Nattier blue vel
vet ribbon and make a striking trim
ming for the blouse. A Paquln button-In-back
blouse Is made of soiree silk
neck, which is coming in again.
Wash Blouses Of Silken Material.
Two very exclusive tub blouses are
pictured; one of white washable sattn
and the other of flesh pink washable
crcre. Either of theu waists will be
suitable with a sport suit of more
formal type or with a tailored street
suit for Bpring. The washable satin
blouse is a very good example of tho
best type of tailored sport blouse. Its
lines are simple but the cut is master
ly, loose and graceful lines are
achieved without undue fullness and
the collar has the new flat line now
prescribed by fashion. Flaring col
lars are no more and the new blouse
alms at simplicity about the neck, re
vealing Instead of disguising the
charming lines of throat and shoulder.
The sport blouse invariably fastens at
tho front and has long sleeves fitted
Into cufTs. The washable satin model
pictured has regulation coat sleeves
of mannish type; the blouse of wash
able crepe shows the new full sleeve,
quite flat at the armhole but bulging
to generous width below the elbow
and then tapering in again at the
wrist- This blouse . Is very dainty,
both In color and material. There
are hemstitched tucks across front
and hack and the small collar,
slashed Into points at the sides. In
trimmed with crochet ball buttons.
These buttons weight a narrow tie of
flesh pink silk and weight dangling
ornaments on the sleeves.
Over-the-walst blouses are shown In
many materials; one of the prettiest
In white, flesh or yellow, with sleeves models comes from Cheruit and Is of
of matching chiffon. The back fas-I citron-colored crepe de chine, hand-
tens with three silk-covered buttons I embroidered with blue beads. E-ery
placed on an oblique flap, and the 1 Cheruit blouse has pockets of one sort
front drapes Itself In a sort of re- j or another and this model shows them
versed hood effect to show a vest of I outlined with rows of the tiny beads.
fhion Pul (Special
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CHE handbag Is now almost as
important nn item of the cos
tume as the boot and that Is
saying a good deal for women
have been putting a good deal of
stress on the footwear question dur
ing the last few years But a smart
and modern handbag one must carry,
or own to a serious blot on one's
sartorial escutcheon, nnd moreover,
since the handbag Is n'.w a composite
part of the correct toilette, several
different kinds of baRs must be num
bered among ones supply; for the
bag carried with the tailored suit
would never, never do with a formal
afternoon costume, or vice versa.
Unfortunauiy. just i hen one must
have so many of thfte preity trifles,
the price of handbagv Is sipadily soar
Ing. One reason for tills Is the short
age of leather pin ul and mororco.
old standby for handbag use, are al
most impossible to obtan in sufficient
quantity. Skilled labor is also scarce;
handbag makers exprt In tbelr art
are usually foreigners and most of
them are now fighting for their coun
tries Instead of making hags for wom
en's use. The dearth of le.-ther means
of course, fabric bags in great num
ber, but the reticules of silk, velvet
and Paisley are so charming that no
one gives a regretful thoncht to tt
neat leather affairs that used to swing
from feminine fingers. As might be I palllngly expensive and cost up to
rxpci-toil. though, now that all the ! thirty or forty dollars each, but there
feminine world has taken to carrying 1 are models of black satin trimmed
fabric handbag, women who must be
exclusive and ultra smart are de
manding leather bags Just to be dif
ferent! The exceedingly chic bag for
spring, therefore, is of glazed kid to
match (he soft kid of the boot, and
l win or.lers are Riven by milady these
'I;ms, one order going to the boot
maker for a pair of distracting but
toned walking boots of fine glared kid
and the other order to a bacmaker
for a spring handbag of exactly the
same material. These new glased kid
baes have metal frames Another re
version tf an aforetime fashion and
sometimes frames of delicately etched
or engraved silver of course, such
a bag is exquisitely lined and fitted
with mirror, change purse and vanity
belongings.
These new kid bags are quite dif
ferent In appearance from the prim,
plain leather bags of a few seasons
aito The shapes are very fanciful
an t an oval or melon design seems
best liked As oval as a pigskin foot
tall Is a smart little bag of pale tan
ti!azed kid Just from Tarls. The frame
is of composition, bordered with small
rhinestones and the handle is flat, like
a leather strap.
Some of the Paisley bags are ap-
wlth Paisley that may be had for
from five to ten dollars. Fifteen dol
- lars Is really a modest price to pay
for a smart bag Just now and twenty
dollars is not exorbitant if one can
afford to be particular about the small
belongings of the costume. The pouch-
shaped bag is most favored In Paisley I
and the top of the bag is drawn up on '
rings through which the cord handles
run. or by a gilt or silver gate-top:
with slender chain handle. Such a
bag, in long and very narrow pouch
shape, has around its oenter or widest
portion, three rows of narrow black :
satin ribbon, closely pleated. Jade j
bracelets and silk tassels attached to
small Jade rings may be bought, all I
ready to attach to pouch handbags I
made at home. A nimble fingered
woman can evolve a very stunning i
bag In this way, out of a bit of old j
Chinese brocade or Paisley shawl ma
terial Very smart Indeed Is such a
bag, made of black soiree silk headed i
round the center with steel and i
green beads, and mounted with Jade ;
bracelet bandies, a inde ring and tas- j
set depending from the bottom. Snake j
handles are also popular on these!
pouch bags. The snake, made of
beads and holding Its tail In Its mouth
makes a bracelet, and a pair of snakes
make twin bag handles.
One handsome bag with bracelet
handles is made of a strip of ancient
Chinese embroidery in wonderful
shades of Chinese blue, pale apricot
and cherry-blossom pink. Tellow and
black are blended with these colors
In the border. The bracelet handles
are of imitation amber and the hand-
eome tassels are of silk combining the
shades in the Chinese embroidery, i
Another bag Is beaded allover in pale !
gray with a leaf design In green and j
green letters In a wreath of pink- ,
shaded roses. This bag boasts a
hammered silver frame and silver
chain handle.
Very beautiful examples of sprl.tg
reticules are two other beaded bags.
The pouch shape Is used in both In
stances though one bag has a head
ing above the drawstrings and the
other Is finished with a narrow silk
puffing. The larger bag is of French
blue panne velvet with steel beading
at top and bottom and very Interest
ing ropo handles made of steel beads.
The other bag is entirely covered with
bronze green beads and the handlee
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Astonishing, How Many Things Can Go On A Theatre Bag! One Count,
Here, Gold Lace, White Lace, chiffon. Silk Flowers, Tinted Silk
And Even Batiste embroidery.
A tt-ench Blue Velvet I lag Wtth Steel Beads And Beaded Handles; And
Another llig, Pouch-Shaped And Solidly Beaded In Bronae-Green,
are of black ribbon. Until one un
dertakes to revive one's past-and-gone
accomplishment of beadwork, the late
advance In steel bead prices has not
Interested one greatly; and one la apt
to be rather overcome by It. Beads
that used to be 10 cents a string are
now It cents, and many of the stores
are out of the beads and cannot prom
ise when they will have more.
Two elaborate evening bags are
typical examples of bag luxury for
spring. Evening bags are growing
larger and now hold a number ol
things beside kerchief and opera glass
One of these bags Is of gold lace and
French blue soiree silk, with a posy
of gold roses and a cape collar of
! fancy In a theatre bag fine machlns
i embroidery mounted on real Val
. enctennes lace. The other bag Is a
I very capacious affair made of pale
pink satin, shirred lace, gold and pink
galloon and bands of ruffled net on
which ai e festoons of pink and mauve
silk rosebuds.