Newspapers / The Kinston Free Press … / Sept. 19, 1914, edition 1 / Page 6
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"1 . J - SATURDAY, SEPT. 19, 1914 PAGE SIX Coiffure From the Days of the Empire Describing the New Handkerchiefs Tailored Costume for College Girl r' you ar looking for something ia a tyl of hair dressing consider Uila revival of on of the fascinating enlevements of the time of the Em pire After da consideration one la constrained to ponder as to whether ire have ever had anything better since then. A century and more has faded Into the past since this coiffure played Its part, along with other super excellent modes, which helped the beauties of Napoleon's time to Immor talise their charms, ' This pretty arrangement or the hair in waves and short curls Is not Intend ed to be worn with workaday clothes In the prosaic business of everyday living. It is an affair of evening dress, when satins and laces and jewels and flowers bespeak Joyous appareling. Mile, Montague Is shown In the pic ture wearing it with a satin and lace evening dress with flowers at her belt and pearls about her neck. Her long coat Is of, brocaded satin in rose color, Doraereo witn a ruche of plaited ma- line. She wears a moire girdle of rose color, also. Her garments are the most tasteful of up-to-date modes. The hair Is waved and parted a little to one side in a very short part. This waved portion Is brought to the back of the head and arranged In loose, flat colls pinned flat below the crown. The hair over the ears Is separated Into strands and curled In three rather tight curls. A strand of pearls, fin lshed with three settings at the front, Is clasped round the head. Below it across the forehead there is a slightly curled fringe of hair. Almost any fairly youthful face will find all Its good points enhanced by style of hair dressing so remarkably good that It challenges the classic models of the Greeks and divides hon- ears with them. JULIA BOTTOM LEY. Vestees and Collars in Fall Styles fV the half dozen new handker- J chiefs selected for portrayal among the novelties now shown three are made at home and three are factory made. All are dainty and tasteful showing a touch of color on white Handkerchief linen. This color note ippears In the finest hand embrold- ared handkerchiefs and Is noticeably well liked on household linens as well. Initials, names, monograms and small iecorations In flower designs are worked In one or more colors Instead )f white. The three handkerchiefs in the top row are factory made. The first ihows a printed border having a nar row band in pink In which small polka lots in white appear. It is finished n one corner with a fine embroidered ipray Id white, for which the pink Dand makes an effective background, although the embroidery is machine made It is fine and wonderfully ac-;urate. A similar design appears in the sec ond handkerchief. The colored bands are plain, without polka dots, and one corner is decorated with an embroid ered medallion in white. The third handkerchief is plain with a narrow hem. Its novelty lies in the fact that the narrow lace at the edge of the hem is pink instead of white. Each of these designs can be bought with blue or lavender colorings. The handkerchiefs shown in the sec ond row are all finished with tiny rolled hems overcast with a crossed stitch In embroidery thread. Fine lines of color, matching that on the edge. are Introduced near the hem or cross ing the handkerchiefs. This is done by pulling out one or two threads from the linen, as for drawn work, and re placing them with the embroidery thread, carefully run in with a very fine needle. Two of these handkerchiefs are dec orated with little sprays of flowers, embroidered by hand in one corner. The third is finished with small initial letters of the owner's name. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. FOLLOWING the sanest of present day styles (at a commendable dis tance from all extremes) and espe cially designed for slender young fig ures, the picture given here presents an Ideal tailored costume for a young woman. . The undraped skirt hangs straight from the normal waist line. It has the fashionable narrow effect, but is provided with inverted plaits at each side, which are free from the knee down. These give room for long and rapid strides. The bottom is finished with a hem, and above the plaits ar row-heads and seams piped with a con trasting color make a workman-like, and therefore elegant, "tailored" finish. The coat follows, with fashionable vagueness, the lines of the figure. In many new models the waist line is quite ignored. But in this there is an easy shaping of the side seams and a little definition of the waist. The shoulders are wide and the sleeves long, all of which points show the good Judgment of the designer In com posing a garment for the slender and undeveloped figures of youth. For fin lsh the coat depends upon pipings, embroidered arrow-heads and simu lated buttonholes with a turned-back collar in silk of the same color as the decorations. The belt, of the material, with sash ends at the front, has a row of ma chine stitching near its edges and is a feature in the styles for fall and winter. The Jacket is hemmed at the bottom. Deep, slightly flaring cuffs finish the sleeves. A soft blouse of white cotton voile, with neck and sleeves finished witn hemstitched frills, Is worn with this suit. The sensible walking boots of kid, with cloth uppers, are neatly tipped with patent leather. The short washable gloves are barred with black. A sailor hat with velvet brim and satin crown Is simply trimmed with velvet bow and one large satin poppy. Taken altogether this is a costume that the young woman may wear with much satisfaction. It will pass the most discriminating scrutiny and place her at once among the well dressed. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. f n i n.ii s . . i , ' oags ana oeits 10 maicn i f-Ti: ,A" , i -'Siiy ' : 1 I JA .JL rep Wh 1 Sch0Ql Hats for B9 and La" ' TO make sure of a lilt of white next the face is to be sure of added be eonlngness in coat cr gown. Vestees sad collars in one, or collars alone. art) the dominating features In full aeckwear, and they are shown In many fabrics and a still greater number of leatgns. Nearly all of these smart accessories are made of washable fabrics, al though fragile chiffons and silk mus lins and the finest of silk crepes are Ullsed to make the short lived glory of some of them. But crisp freshness and Immaculate cleanliness belong to the Teste and collar; are the essen tial reasons for their existence, in fact, so that all the finest and sheerest of wash fabrics are employed in their making. These Include organdie, svta, thin lawns, swlas embroidery, battel, malls, nets, voile and laces, fa choice is wld enough. Collars and vestees made the firm et weaves la wash fabrics are finished frith hemstitching and often decorated rith tacks. Insertions and narrow dgtaga of fine lac or the finest n fcroiderie are used on them. The daintiest of the neck pieces Tf ?T QTv waited with spray of embrc-lJ.Ty Narrow plaited frills make iumsII)1, a Kr-at variety In deco ration Hemstitching. embroidered dots, und small vnr cr covtred but tons ure additional factors that ro to make up the endless variety one finds in neckwear Roll-over collars are leaders in pop ularity, combined either with long vestees or short dickies Severe de signs, like that shown in the picture given here, of sheer organJie, are charmingly delicate. A plain roll-over collar to which net ties are attached U decorated w ith tiny black pearl but tons and makes a stunning finish for a tailored gown. Vestees and roll-over collars of pique are compelling attention. Re cently dress sets showing collar and cuffs to match, or collar, vestee and cuffs, proclaim the revival of an old but fine style, well worthy of a new vogue. There Is literally no end to the number of deslcns In neckwear. With so many fabrica available and a free field tor the play of fancy in a world of Inexpensive materials we are likely to find new things every day. . , - JUUA OTTOMLEY. HE colors that one may choose in a selecting dress fabrics for the com ins fall are varied enough, and many a? them strong. But they are not as vivid as those that have marked the passing season, and the handsomest of materials and fall suitings may be said to deserve the term "sedate," which one hears applied to them. Rich materials in quiet colors and trimmed with natural furs invite the use of gor geous touches of vivid colors in their composition into costumes. Hence now enters the belt, with bag to match, made of brocades or stripes or other designs from the most splendid fabrics of the looms. It is the day of wide and sumptuous ribbons woven In the most Intricate patterns and enriched with gold and liver threads. The costumer and the modiste looks to them for those dashes of lively color that are to be used ia dress accessories. How well they an swer the purpose! There i no color combination that cannot he found among them, and they are as rich looking and as fnl of Uf as diamonds. The ever-present alrdle raoulrai i widest weaves, for it enwraps more of the figure than the waist line. It strays above or falls below or ienoroa the waist entirely and encircles the nips, or it becomes a sash which serves to wran about both waist and hips and ties in a bow low at the back or bangs in straight ends at the front But plain, soft ribbons only are used In this way. Gorgeous brocades are to be mor sparingly introduced In order tn ha effective. A girdle to match a bag like mat snown in tne picture needs to be managed carefully. The bag Is made of the most splen did of wide brocaded ribbon with plenty of gold and silver marking the high lights in the design. It is sus pended by straps made of the ribbons from a Jade bracelet and finished with an acorn made of silk and silver cord. There are many good model shows in bags made of ribbon and one may also buy ornament ready to as ia finishing them. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. , ' ; j A GROUP of three hats is pictured hera suited to thn needs nf the young lady in the high school and her smaller sister. One of them, the mortar-board hat of velvet, is shown in two views. This velvet model and the large sailor for the nearly arown miss are suitable fcr dressy wear also. The mortar-board hat ia & rnvpitr in head wear. It ia maHn nn a nnnnrn brim mounted over a small round crown. The velvet covering la cut large enough to fold back, as shown In the picture. This corerinr la a large square of velvet hordonwi with silk. The four corners of the square are fastened to the crown with small ribbon bows. No furthor would be In good taste on so odd a model This hat could be made of more durable material hr aohtnn one of the thin plushes, such as are shown among fan millinery materials. The sailor shape of plain velvet ia a type of many hats designed for young girls. The hrlm at ia quite often mounted on a crown of ill la contrasting color. Gold and silver cloth is used for this purpose. Pretty roman-striped silks are good. The close-fitting, bonnet-like shape, for a little miss. Is of a lightweight plush draped over a frame.i, t is trimmed with a small natural lng. These plushes will stand any amount of wear and weather and are. In fact, more hardy than fur. Hats made of them are very comfortable and a satis factory protection in cool weather. Corduroy la about the most reliable fabric which one can select to make hat for the children's daily wear. And altogether satisfactory shapes can be made at home, using either corduroy or velveteen. Hat of tU kind are made with soft crowns have brims Interlined with crinoline.. . Patterns for making them are to had of any standard pattern eompny.f By stitching the brims tn parallel; row. v they may be kent ahapev' Trimming are of the simplest char - acter If used at alL Bands of ribbon -finished with small bow are th bast choic of all. , - - JULIA BOTTOMLEY. J
The Kinston Free Press (Kinston, N.C.)
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Sept. 19, 1914, edition 1
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