Newspapers / The Morning Post (Raleigh, … / April 24, 1904, edition 1 / Page 10
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1 i MttN, WW "Zva . F i;- iUVvjl4y -, V 1 lfw i -vt "Vi? - v Jstvvv., - J Wmw4 4 ) V-J4? "J f " pv;& esMK' vsr -J:- i f . HI -':... . . , - - I li K"7'4f M f1inn 1 llz TiTO M . , - A 7 f)pt y tv - foiu aj i . icJ , m i fl . f t v?xr i Mill 'j.fP ! i ''i t I L VVrtVV.Tx V J ; I ;L.;. - UHtvi-K C , the joining being made BT OUR SPECIAL CORRESPondent. MIRIAM SPIER. eZZVll M thomrti erry dtJl of cf t7 dM,?;3r tmprrcnated th mind .Utn-ffw'""1 lh further .uk- n ti .iproduct,on- rauat contlnunlly e.rf,f -1 nt hnc novel to Inter- rl. JTm'1 ,nJlJSA for the ncklo :Met (Uterm iddltlon of a 12 L" ner. r 1 n oeit are ail reedllr in- Mt J? ioyou1' rescue of a rt.WT which ha been relw ftfintn..wh,ch wou,d ra H more 4cv Present modea. the ,L'ih dre. hats and furbelow. thwlM; ?LfVhlon towe but little timfi b necesitle. until li there U a .tlLfT.T10 U Imperative: then tain th h,UTTJ andTwurry to on rrt of h. to rnionJre nJlh the Te lor "unpluoua wardrobe, nn. c,vte ef a Dondrrur ! tn tVJ J amount of atten tat th,ir TJVbly owlnK to tbe tmet !-Uen JT4 bt MtUe to the at- t'ai a ni1 'n coat, d the IT."'-. Nver v.. " Jr ciTerent char- every detail has been caxefuPy consid ered, and wherever there It a possibility of reproducing the prevailing modes of the favored gowns the Ideas are carried out In the moat accurate manner so that the ensemble Is quite efficient. The soft, pliable materials used in the garment are splendidly adapted to the va rious methods of construction. Where the drss sleeves are of great fulness th cant sleeve must of neccMSity be equally bouffant, and this feature has been great ly elaborate upon In facLan semblance of the plain, unpretentious raincoats of old have been entirely lost sight of in the beautiful new models. The same -hlrred effect apnarcnt on these models and deep flare cuffs or a ruffled fulness caught Jauntily by some odd strap or button are onJ? of .n "rlous pretty finishes at the wrist, in fact, many of the rarments look as though they had started out to be full-fleda-ed evening wraps, but had at the last moment bethourht themselves of what their purpose signified and with drew their elaborate Intent, satisfied In accepting that which Is best fitted for their usage. Where a snug fit is pre ferred around the waist line the neces sary fulness Is gathered Into consecutive rows of shirring which form a bodice. The wain portion Is gathered so as to hug the figure nbnut the waist line, where the skirt rart is Joined In a like manner; eonl clrTl- are becomingly tied about the waUt. faUinr m a pretty fashion down the front. Thle Is a unique finish for concealing the seam which Joins the two rarts. "To relieve1 the manntnnv.of th regulation-circular cape.-which, has beeir 1ver h twinr 4- Bt n," i-LeJii aK ! ih only ro"-1" o' trimming the shoulders r Ktutxaj air, but for many easonj past, ttiesa recent in novations show a decided Improvement by the introduction of shoulder capes In nu merous odd designs. Some, for instance, are arranged kerchief fashion, and the crossing of the front pieces makes the model all the more uncommon: the long effect (which Is always sought for) Is In this particular model a most becoming feature. The fastening Is concealed be neath the ploats. and one lance button Is the only visible means of holding the gar ment In place. , v Another pretty specimen showed the same full garment with a half-fitted back, and the shoulder cape, which simulated a hood, was of the same fabric edged hy narrow pipings of a self-colored silk, which Introduced a dressy note; large pearl buttons were both useful as well as ornamental and large lap pockets gave It a bit of mannish aspect. That the exaggerated long shoulders and sleeve arranKement has given rise to ail aorta of original devices has been fully demonstrated. In all garments, whether the separate blouse, dress waist or outside garment the shoulder and Its accompanying designs are to be observed, and without doubt they have proven the most becoming style that has been intro duced for sometime. The width of shoul der Is vastly becoming to - the average woman, whether tall or short, and the greater expanse of material employed af fords splendid opportunities for elaborate and quaint effects which add so material ly to the costumes and coats of today Quite as Important to the traveling coats are the long-shouldered effects, and al though they are not carried to extremes nor lavishly adorned, yet their presence Is more essential, and for the more digni fied models the breadth Is attained by cleverly designed collars and epaulettes having a tailored finish Jn the form of stitching or braid trimmings. For the early spring weather, when one Is never certain of either sunshine or rain, and the air Is inclined to be cool, the silk finished cravenettes are especially well adapted to all emergencies; for. automo bile touring one could not wish for a more satisfactory protection. Again for the midsummer there are the linen or pongee coats, which are extremely stylish and afford Immense amount of comfort on so many occasions; whether on the Journey by rail, water or auto, they are truly lndisponsible; and there Is an air of breezlness and cleanliness which greatly enhances their value. No matter how elaborate the gown underneath may be. one may feel at ease when wearing one of these garments. Where linen and pon gee are used the tendency toward em bellishment Is far greater, and Is. Indeed, more fitted than with the heavier fabrics The addition of a band of heavy lace or Persian embroidery Is a most fitting al liance, and Is really very practical. Con sidering the purposes for which these long coats are intended, one cannot af ford to overlook the serviceable end of the Investment, but as a rule this sub ject has been carefully considered before the garment Is purchased, and with the exception of some class of trimming there Is little doubt as to Its durability. A particularly striking, model fashioned for a Journey of great distance was made of brown pongee, whose light weight and absolute protection- from dost - and -est-. on the high roads, milady felt quite at ease from botlv the dress point of view and peace of mind as regards her costume beneath. There was Just enough fancy work employed as trimming to liven up the rather somber hue. while the combi nation of the brown shades prominent In the embroidery effected a pleasing con trast. The full blouse which gathered into a crush leather: belt was a splendid covering without crushing In the least the waist beneath, and equally voluminous were the sleeves and skirt. Several extremely practical coats are made of mohair sicilienne. whose dura-, bllity speaks for itself. In the new weaves that have Just been presented to the public the objectionable wiry thread seems to have been very wisely forgotjten. which Is a vast Improvement, for-present usage of shlrrings and the different de vices which are now substituted in place of foreign trimmings demand a more pliable fabric than what the mohair of past years was characteristic of. Traveling and general utility costumes are made from the new mohair and from lightweight cheviots and tweeds, but those of mohair are somewhat newer and have the - great merit of shedding dust and of being light in weight. Some are striped, some are plaid, but there is a treat preference shown for the latter, which are green and blue, or green, blue and black, and quite small. Among the stripes dark blue and browns predomi nate, but are woven to give stripes of quite different , effect, while color is all one and flecked with white. A most use ful and stylish traveling costume Is of the plaid and combines one of the, lat est skirts with a severe eton Jacket.' such being decreed, among other good things. suit of an intermediate sort one that is useful for many occasions Is made of finest cloth in hunter's green and is com bined with oyster white cloth overlaid with waved silk braid showing old rose, green and, whlte and self-colored velvet ' The skirt.is xjuite iin trimmed. 4ut ia plait sivujra ui uiree. ane eton is a plain posure Insured its wearer to no littiA ex tent; whether en route or afternoon spin i and smoothly fitted one" but T is Overlaid with a shaped portion of cloth that ex tends over the shoulder and gives a sug gestion of the cape effect, while in reality stitched flat. The neck shows the uni versal flat collar, which is of velvet, and there is a tiny vest of the white cloth and braid, while the sleeves are shaped to form puffs, below the elbow' and are held by deep cuffs that suggest the gaunt let shape and are finished at their upper edzes with bands of oyster cloth edged witfi velvet. As a rule, skirts show an abundance of panel effects. Hip yokes are frequently seen, though they are more often simu lated by use of braids than real. Trains are not in favor for anything except house or evening wear. It is surprising to see how many really elaborate gowns Just escape the ground. It is fast com ing true that a train is a thing outside a tailor's ken. and' never met with in the line of his dally work. ; It Is a move in the direction of sanitary improvement, while for street wear the netv lengths are far more graceful than the sagging skirts of other years. - ' ; ' ; At the recent convention of the2 Inter national Society of Dressmakers one of the most admired models was a mohair walking gown. This was of silver gray mohair sicilienne. with tiny flecks" of black over the surface. It was with the fnstep-length skirt and fitted eton Jacket. The skirt was made with double inverted plaits in each of the 10 gowns, the plaits flying free Just below the hips. Each gore was outlined with a gray louislne cord, used much as a braid would be. and enuing- around the hips in a pattern in tended to simulate a hip yoke. Through this pattern ran threads of gold embroid ered with black embroidery silk. TJ?f Jethad lb,e hteh-boned girdle made of the draped. Louislne and overlaid Httx a JO) embroidery of the gold thread. This girdle was really a part of the t8 Kg? 5 made dlrect he -sleeves were': loose and of the pa goda type, . the: box-pleat which formed the center of the. sleeve extending up the "v-' wuiKua a mm collar similar to that' used on a man' Tun coat' and was faced with gray ellk. which in turn, waa overlaid with a kM1 thru! embroidery. Lingerie. ruffles filled in tbe wide sleeves. r Although the weather Is still iinwttM. some of the fairer sex who aro alwny u the front In ' fashion have long donned-their straw hats. Tbeie In ;m endless variety of styles, but tt nv-M dressy models are flat and lar. J : are rather smaller and som-vli:it I r For these, as for all other hy :. a : cessful novelty has been intrrwliutM lr. t shape of a combination of warm .Jain straw and gold thread. This i .as a rt but not gaudy effect, and wh-n trlmr-d with black velvet and gold braid U vtry attractive. I , ... The straw braids most In ryiwrt f making shapes are rather wl.l- r! r -f a spiky order i and plaited !.". more In demand than paillns'-n. I- r s . i braids medium and bright d.yk ro .r given the preference over llKht M ' i shades are also greatly fan. Ul y t best milliners. I A dozen shades r.f Ui r of mauve and i violet will often Lo r,;.. bined in these braids. A now str.tw lr ming has appeared that i K'"1'' adapted for the decoration of ii r toques made of straw braid. It in re posed of short pieces of sntln straw t li r threaded together like grass uj;. v they resemble owing to thlr v,rv " ' surface, only, of course, t hoy are tt i Kr These straw bugles are madt- up inM i close-meshed galon, which ia w-) ' circle the crown of sailor or to fa e i brim of toques. They are nlso Mr. j on single threads and mounted to t shapes in festoons fastened at interval by straw cabochons. Such straw txt work Is produced In all colors. partir..,:.r ly bright, medium and dark shad'-n. times they are chosen to match tt.e Apropos of the traveling cosfii". m hats that are shown to corn .' ;" r i t or accompany them point toward a a-.-nlte closeness.! which rciwltH in ;m in crease of comfort. Brim hats -plenty, of course, and-very likely i 'f will grow bigger as the mnf h a l. ir. f hut thm rnrt of moment IS t V ' J medium-sized and compact' I a .K' tlcularly for the Jaunty mil. r-m traveling suits, This tho tnrKu. accomplish more successfully t: styles, though I there an- iimm and gypsy models whioli fif ! ' and becoming. I However, the t - ; ban, whose trimmings and fo'i.v.. onv ao to sneak, wilt Ik tl.e ; approved for first wenr. Thin ni in numberless fancy straws, hni tulle or taffeta. Is the Ktyl- ' many of tho plainer and moie tailor-mades. Sailors arc takla .1 j ,1 w1 'i,r t irm niiiii.i hiiji ' - ui iuu. u . . . angle, and bunches of simple fl r-' 'J scarfs of soft silk trim many "I i c Detailed Description of Above Models. . V SHANTUNG Sl'KTOlT. A cool, green shantung '' trimmed with a novelty braid, i a " -., pale blue, gold, scarici ui.' ' ; mixed. The synaicaie iuuu- fronts pleated Into the J,,'" seam and shir.ed In blouw ia waistline, where a markt- i., ent. The skirts are shirred t-, the Joining being made iivi puff, shirred Into a loose l.aii"-.-"1-CKAVKJiCTTE TIIAVKM'' t04 f: ! t -.! Cravenettes garments for make excellent, tra'1 rnln or slilne. ', .' and light welghU The , "y "'1' J - . . . a ligni coven bhuwb -In one with the fronts, the f,.I. ; being entirely eliminated, i- , f...r i semftitting. the double-bre. .i f..i.nii.9 with handsunr: i . :.i and a shaped! belt passes Ja-- th waist and hoius inc. tr place. Stitched taffeta in ,..' . j makes an effective collur. c-J -flap. E SMAItT TRAVELIXi COST I- Brown veivet ti gown. The snort r-toy and semlntted fronts, ' 'u ' . veres and drop-points. i'c long, running inio a , starts tbe sleeve with a "r? The skirt is plain, with a ur. finished with a velvet biiiJ'- " ' ; FOB: RAIN OU SlU' '' Brown melton is used ct. Costume of the severely V - order. The coat fits clo-' .. and the front arc fitted ,v . f .t,.n.H ol r h Kniukfc J these also appearing on t -'- The skirt Is 13-gore. wit turning pleat: in each gore- AUl - , rn cheviot, with a novo . , .. , trimmings, relieved j cloth, fashions a prr.ai . v ' I i i ion- '.r.f ! ' . . . I - . l A COQt'B TBIMMK" This smart tailor eap;. curve upward towardn u 't ho tmnt vrhr the pleat-' to advantage. Tbe only 11 wreath of coque plumes urr- ( . and a simple bow of Wc ,r SMART yRAb" ' j .'a, 1 ' Fancy champagne straw hr H "-' thl handmade hat, w r.i f , . 4 trimmed with a band an J w r, . ,wr.. rlhhnn flrnund 11 .. t another similar, posed up1'" . , , ' ; beneath the j brim at th :'a. - . underbrlm is decorated I w ui- A tern executed in the straw 01
The Morning Post (Raleigh, N.C.)
Standardized title groups preceding, succeeding, and alternate titles together.
April 24, 1904, edition 1
10
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